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03/14/2013, 06:56 PM | #1776 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 13
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the feet cause all the weight to be supported on just those few points, rather than with as much of the frame as you have in contact with the floor--this can cause the floor to fail under the feet (sag/punch through with time).
I believe most people shim the stands to get them level on the floor, with filler shims in any gaps.
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was that in there yesterday? Current Tank Info: 65 gal, 10 temp |
03/18/2013, 09:24 PM | #1777 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 23
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So here's what I've come up with [thanks kcress for the input] for my tank, look ok?
Tank dimensions are 240x120x70cm (LxWxH), 15mm glass. Top frame of stand is made from 100x50x3mm steel, legs and base from 50x50x3, galvanised. Gussets are 120x6mm steel. The part I'm concerned about is providing enough support across the width of the tank, ideally I'd prefer not to have to put a row of legs down the middle, but if the 100x50 won't be rigid enough for the 120cm width I'll just go for 50x50x3 all round and put a row of legs down the centre. If anyone wants the sketchup files PM me with your email address and I'll send them to you. |
03/19/2013, 07:01 PM | #1778 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 129
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I just acquired an 150g glass tank that is 6' long, and I want to build a steel stand without using a centerbrace in the front, leaving it open and easily accessible, what size and thickness of steel tubing should i use? I would like to have it be as tall as it can be, because i happen to be a pretty tall guy and bending over too much is a pain. Is this even possible?
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04/02/2013, 05:14 AM | #1779 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 463
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ok here is updated stand, getting ready to build and wanted get thoughts. is this over kill or just fine the way it is.
Thanks |
04/02/2013, 06:07 PM | #1780 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: kresgeville, pa
Posts: 278
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Hey guys i did a rough sketch of a steel stand i would like to build any input or suggestions are welcome. I am going to use 1 1/2 box tube 1/8 wall. My plan is to have 6 adjustable legs for leveling. I am going to weld 3/16 plate steel to the bottom of the legs and weld a 3/4 fine grade 8 nut to the bottom to use a 3/4 fine bolt for adjustments. What do you think does this design look good should i add metal. Stand is 72L 36w for a 270 gallon reef.
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05/10/2013, 03:27 PM | #1781 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 6,111
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Hi,
Had this stand made a couple of weeks back to house a sump in the basement, The sump is planed to go on the well supported lower shelf, plan was to cover the whole thing with wood to keep humidity and heat... Plans have changed and I'm considering either having 3 small tanks on the top (ATO reservoir, Fish Q tank, Coral introduction tank) totaling around 120 G, or maybe having a very shallow frag tank on the top part (again around 100-120 G tank) would having a single tank on such an unsupported span be easier on the steel than having 3 separate tanks with the middle one not luying on any feet and having its weight concentrated on the middle part? stand dimensions are: 72 long 28 inches wide and 40 inches high, using 4x4 cm 2mm thick steel. The oblique steel reinforcing the horizontals extends only 10 inches.
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390 G mixed reef build Current Tank Info: 390G mixed reef |
05/11/2013, 11:40 PM | #1782 |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 977
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Hopefully kcress or someone can chime in. I am designing the stand for my standard 120 (4x2x2). I would LOVE to have no center braces. I was going to go 2" x 2" all around, but it seems like this is still not enough for that length unsupported? Do I need to go 1.5" x 3" up top then 1.5" x 1.5" elsewhere to accomplish this? If possible at all.
Thanks in advance, really informative thread going on here. Here is what I am thinking so far for reference.
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-Marc Last edited by OranguTang; 05/11/2013 at 11:53 PM. |
05/14/2013, 08:36 PM | #1783 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 994
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Orangutang I designed a tank sort of close to your dimensions (36"l x 30"w x 20"t). It was center braceless and I used 1.5" x 3" 1/8" steel. Kcress informed me that bumping up to 1/4" steel was not worth the gain in strength like we think it would be compared to 1/8" steel. 48" might be pushing it for 1.5" x 3" steel. On my design I also used 1.5" x 3" steel for the vertical support legs as well. I figured it would give more support for all four top rails. This way all four rails are supported by a vertical rail and not just relying on a weld to hold up a rail. Everything else was designed to have 1.5" square tubing. Don't forget your anti racking gusset plates and possibly some mounting tabs if your going to skin the frame with wood. It's not a bad idea to put mounting tabs on the inside of the stand in case you want to mount boards or panduit to help with wire or components you might want to hang. A lot of planning should be done ahead with steel stAnds because they are not like wood stands and can't be modified as easy like wood stands after installation. Try to avoid drilling and tapping on the top rail or vertical support rails. In can change the structural integrity of the steel.
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05/15/2013, 05:29 AM | #1784 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
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I am to going to build my own stand (not entirely i will catch someone to weld it for me). I am building a stand for a 40x24x24 aquarium & my stand will be 40x24x30 i dont want center braces so i am going to make the whole thing from 1.5x3 1/8 steel. I will await advise from the pros before i go ahead, as i see kress saying that if it is made from this size steel i think there is no need for racking support but the corners have to be done a certain way or something.
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05/24/2013, 05:48 PM | #1785 |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: greeley co
Posts: 395
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just needs gussets. Ready for the215
Loved looking at all the stands here. thanks for posting people! |
05/26/2013, 04:16 AM | #1786 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Porto, Portugal
Posts: 10
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Love the builds! Great guide overall. Tagging along.
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05/27/2013, 06:55 AM | #1787 |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: greeley co
Posts: 395
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painted with appliance epoxy.
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05/28/2013, 05:28 PM | #1788 |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 435
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06/17/2013, 03:43 PM | #1789 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 21
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Stand for 96" x 30" x 24" Acrylic Aquarium
This stand was made in two parts to facilitate easier transport (it bolts together in the center). I will add 2 additional vertical supports in the rear (one on each half).
Will have it primed and powder coated next. 2" Steel tubing, 1/8" thickness.. Comments?? IMG_20130617_141020_0.jpg IMG_20130617_141039_0.jpg IMG_20130617_141100_0.jpg Last edited by kmac67; 06/17/2013 at 03:45 PM. Reason: imbeding pics |
06/17/2013, 11:18 PM | #1790 |
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Location: greeley co
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06/18/2013, 05:12 PM | #1791 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 994
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Kcress- what do you think about using 1" x 1.5" solid steel for a build instead of square tube?
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06/20/2013, 11:45 AM | #1792 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 67
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Quote:
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07/01/2013, 01:44 PM | #1793 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Meechigan
Posts: 225
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Quick question: Floating bottom with no plastic rim. The glass sits flush on stand everywhere but center front and back. The gap is ~ 1/8". What are my options?
I've read a ton and don't see much advice on this with floating bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Adam |
07/03/2013, 02:39 PM | #1794 |
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Location: North West Illinois
Posts: 188
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My stand for my 220 was just delivered! It is 73" l x 24" w x 34" t. Made of 2" x 1/8" thick steel tubing.
Will be priming it tonight and Herculiner coating it tomorrow. SO excited!
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There are so many things standing in my way this morning, I can hardly begin. Yet I have heard there are rumors of water. Maybe that is enough. ~ L.L. Barkat |
07/04/2013, 02:24 PM | #1795 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 6
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Has anyone built a steel stand wider than the tank itself. A 180g tank is 24" wide and I would like to make the stand say 29" wide so that the front of the tank is flush with the stand giving me more room in sump area.
Thanks, vanessa |
07/04/2013, 03:20 PM | #1796 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 266
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I'm having a steel stand made for my cube pretty soon mostly because I love looking at my plumbing and equipment, was just wondering if any special consideration should be made for a tank that has no plastic rim? its 24x24 and I live in california land of earthquakes =]
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07/09/2013, 01:17 PM | #1797 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 485
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Please Help!
I'm in the beginning stages of planning either a 300 gallon (72x36x27) or a 400 gallon (96x36x27) display tank. I would like a nice drawing of each stand to show the fabrication shops what I looking to have built. If I went with the 300 gallon I would want a 72x36x36 stand and a 96x36x36 for the 400 gallon. Could someone please help me out? I have been reading all day and I still don't know how I should design the stand, what size steel, thickness, spacing between supports, etc... Thanks in advance!
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07/10/2013, 08:56 AM | #1798 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 485
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Would a 72x36x36 steel stand work with 2" squared 1/8" width tubing and only using a center support in the front and back?
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07/10/2013, 09:58 AM | #1799 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 73
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Im looking to have a stand built and was wondering what others thought. I planning on having 2 - 60 gal cube tanks and wanted a stand to support both apart from each other with a lower connection stand between the 2 tanks under it all will be all my goodies where do you guys go to do these plan ups on your computer and what thickness and dia sq steel tubing should be used.
Last edited by texasreefguy; 07/10/2013 at 10:57 AM. |
07/13/2013, 08:03 AM | #1800 |
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Greeley, CO
Posts: 45
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Here is my steel stand. It is 2x2 tubing. I will update my build thread soon with the details.
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210gal, about ten friendly fish and lots of small soft coral. sump, refuge and a lot of time tinkering with this hobby.... Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon |
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