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Old 01/04/2009, 09:18 AM   #26
BeanAnimal
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Make sure the siphon standpipe is not submerged more than an 1" or so. You can also drill a small hole or two in the siphon standpipe near the water line of the sump. It sound slike trapped air is keeping it from starting. You should also ensure that the open channel standpipe is getting enough air.


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Old 01/04/2009, 04:40 PM   #27
robertifly
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Bean, on the depth of the siphon, are you speaking of when running or when DT is drained fully down to sump?
When running the siphon is 1" under water, when DT drained down siphon 4.5" under.
When running the open channel under 1-2". open channel 4.5-5" under.
The only other measurable difference in the two is the valve in the siphon drain, the air line in the open channel and the open channel measures 1/16" higher at the bulkhead.
All those factors should give the siphon drain the edge, yes?
I have not drilled the hole at the water line yet, I'm thinking that would be at the water line with DT drained down?


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Old 01/04/2009, 05:13 PM   #28
BeanAnimal
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I would drill the hole just above the water mark at the sumps normal operating level. Remembver the return pump is going to lower the level, no matter which pipe is running


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Old 01/04/2009, 06:30 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by mflamb
Once I drilled a small hole in the two siphon channel pipes, it works great.

wher do the small holes go?


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Old 01/04/2009, 06:30 PM   #30
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dbl post


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Old 01/04/2009, 06:35 PM   #31
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Bean, I designed my overflow just as you described it you your first post. I have a full 4" x 6" box with three 1 1/2" outlets. I just finished gluing my baffles in place. Is there anything about the final design that I should change? I just want to make sure I will have an overflow that works like described.


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Old 01/04/2009, 07:03 PM   #32
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If you are concerned about the siphon starting, then you can place the open channel standpipe bulkhead slightly higher (1/2" or so) than the siphon standpipe bulkhead.


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Old 01/04/2009, 07:20 PM   #33
mflamb
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LoneRanger, the small drilled holes go in the siphon channel pipe just above the water level in the sump. The holes help vent the air from the siphon channel so that channel starts up like it should. It made all the difference in my system.


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Old 01/04/2009, 07:21 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by jmking33
mflamb...super nice work..very clean..love it.
Thanks dude, if you come down I-4 to Tampa, stop by for a visit. I'm 10 minutes fromthe highway.


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Old 01/04/2009, 07:48 PM   #35
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Hey Bean i am planning to run a overflow system very similar to yours except do to size restrictions and tank design i have to change a few thing and was wanting your opinion on my design. My overflow box will be attached to the back of my tank and the tank will be cut to allow water to run in, the dimensions of the overflow will be 28wide by 5deep and 5 tall and the 1" bulkheads will be through the bottom of the overflow and it will be similar to this setup



and this is the design i have so far



It is all 1" and from the bottom of the overflow to the center line of the "T" is about 3 1/4"

does this appear that it will function similar or do you think i will have problems and suggestions or opinions will be greatly appreciated Thanks


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Old 01/04/2009, 09:10 PM   #36
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It should work just fine, of course depending on the total volume it has to process. I would opt for larger elbows as intakes, even though the Tee is 1"


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Old 01/05/2009, 05:12 AM   #37
02WRXGT30R
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ok i will look into that thanks for the input and the total flow wont be anything big its only a 50gal. tank with a 20gal. sump so maybe 500gph


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Old 01/05/2009, 10:39 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by BeanAnimal
If you are concerned about the siphon starting, then you can place the open channel standpipe bulkhead slightly higher (1/2" or so) than the siphon standpipe bulkhead.
The bulkheads are already in place. Would changing the depth of the elbow in the overflow help, or should I just go with it and see what happens?

Quote:
LoneRanger, the small drilled holes go in the siphon channel pipe just above the water level in the sump. The holes help vent the air from the siphon channel so that channel starts up like it should. It made all the difference in my system.
Should I try this or wait and see?


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Old 01/05/2009, 11:44 AM   #39
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Changing the depth of the elbow will only work the standpipes go through the bottom of the box. If they are horizontal (through the back of the box) then the weir height is dictated by the bulkhead height.

You can drill the holes are wait and see... It will not hurt to drill them but may not be necessary.


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Old 01/06/2009, 05:57 AM   #40
robertifly
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BeanAnimal, you're "da man" the two little holes in the siphon took care of the problem, transition is now less than 2 min and was like 30 before with lots of cycling from the open channel going full siphon and emptying the overflow box. Very pleased with the outcome. Thanks again


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Old 01/06/2009, 06:07 AM   #41
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Glad to hear that it is up and running. It is also good that you have been able to see the fail-safe feature working!


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Old 01/06/2009, 11:40 AM   #42
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Bean
I have just ordered a 60Lx30Dx24H custom glass with an external 48L X 6D X 12H overflow on the back panel. I'm having the bottom of the overflow drilled for 6 1-1/2" bulkheads as I'm gong to have two sets of "PERFECT SILENT DRAIN SYSTEM". My question is twofold.[list=1][*]Will having two sets of BeanAnimal overflows in the same box create any problems? The tanks not built yet so I have the option to get them to divide the box in two.[*] I believe that you had 1" bulkheads and bushed the overflow pipes to fit. Was this done for a reason and will having the full 1-1/2" in my setup cause any problems?[/list=1] Thanks


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Old 01/06/2009, 01:31 PM   #43
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A little help please.
I have a 250 gal tank with the overflow box and two drains just like you have. Currently have Durso type and basement sump. Bought new house and am in the middle of moving the tank. I can drill another hole for the three return system, but here is my current situation/ problem. Tank will be in theater room, and sump will be in room next to tank (large storage room). Idea is for return to go down under the floor, lateral either 10 or 15 feet (prefer the 15 foot side of the room) and then back up through floor to the sump located on the floor. I was thinking I would come into the sump with an open "T" to allow air to escape, but not sure how big I need the drain pipe to be (currently have 1.5 inch spaflex).
Will it work? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Ken


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Old 01/06/2009, 05:34 PM   #44
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Bean, I had to tilt two of my drains slightly to handle space issues. (poor planing) Do you see any reason that that would matter?



I also had to scrape off some paint so I could see to level the overflow and get it siliconed in place.


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Old 01/07/2009, 09:52 AM   #45
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Guys... I will answer the posts, but I am a bit behind today and will be without internet access for most of the day... I will try and get to it this evening.


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Old 01/08/2009, 01:16 PM   #46
vair
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Thanks for the informative thread, I'll be incorporating your design into my 300+G. build I have under way.

I was wondering what you and others think the advantages and disadvantages of a intank weir compared to behind tank weir?
I think behind tank 'looks' better as you do not take up tank space. I'm more concerned about strength. My build will be about a 8 foot wide tank with close to a coast to coast overflow.
Do you think a rear mounted overflow box would add strength like euro bracing would? With a intank weir you would have the strength of the weir and could still ad eruo bracing if you wanted. So I guess my question is about tank strength; intank or behind tank is there a difference in tank strength? Other comments regarding the good and bad of each would also be appreciated.


Thanks.


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Old 01/08/2009, 01:36 PM   #47
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who's manufacturing your tank? (sounds exciting!)


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Old 01/08/2009, 01:38 PM   #48
EnglishRebel
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Quote:
Originally posted by vair
Thanks for the informative thread, I'll be incorporating your design into my 300+G. build I have under way.

I was wondering what you and others think the advantages and disadvantages of a intank weir compared to behind tank weir?
I think behind tank 'looks' better as you do not take up tank space. I'm more concerned about strength. My build will be about a 8 foot wide tank with close to a coast to coast overflow.
Do you think a rear mounted overflow box would add strength like euro bracing would? With a intank weir you would have the strength of the weir and could still ad eruo bracing if you wanted. So I guess my question is about tank strength; intank or behind tank is there a difference in tank strength? Other comments regarding the good and bad of each would also be appreciated.Thanks.
I don't want to answer for Bean but my tank manufacturer said that an external coast to coast overflow actually strengthens the tank. I guess it's like having extra Eurobracing.


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Alan

"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. "
Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots.
August 20th 1940
Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
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Old 01/08/2009, 01:59 PM   #49
vair
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnglishRebel
I don't want to answer for Bean but my tank manufacturer said that an external coast to coast overflow actually strengthens the tank. I guess it's like having extra Eurobracing.
interesting... with external the way I see it you cant' have Euro bracing? I would have assumed interior being stronger? Did your tank manufacturer mean it strengthens the tank more then a tank with out Eurobracing, or it is actually stronger Vs. interior coast to coast?


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Old 01/08/2009, 03:51 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by vair
interesting... with external the way I see it you cant' have Euro bracing? I would have assumed interior being stronger? Did your tank manufacturer mean it strengthens the tank more then a tank with out Eurobracing, or it is actually stronger Vs. interior coast to coast?
I'm having a 60x30 built with a 48 rear external. I will have Eurobracing and they said that an external overflow made it stronger. I don't know why you can't have Eurobracing with and external.


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"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. "
Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots.
August 20th 1940
Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
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