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Old 10/10/2006, 10:19 AM   #326
H20ENG
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Someone asked where to get scrap acrylic. I used to have good luck at sign companies, before I started buying it sheets at a time. They have a lot of scrap after cutting out letters.

Side note, I used some WO#3 for some little donation boxes, and that stuff is a pain to work with. To me it was MUCH thinner than WO4. Even with the tiny applicator needle and drawing in a vacuum on the bottle (Sorry I cant describe this better, but acrylic guys will know what I am talking about), it still would dribble out.
It sets up RIGHT NOW, and I can see how it would make very weak joints for a tank. Awesome for POP display production, though, I'm sure. Ok, rant over


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Old 10/10/2006, 10:53 AM   #327
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Ive noticed some people use a syringe with a tip. ( vet syringe type) . does this help speed up the glue applying process, when your doin say all four sides onto the bottom piece. That would be a lot of joints to fill with weldon before it start to dry on you, right? I( got the bottle needle aplicator from tap plastis. It is the smallest needle tip they had. now i wonder if it is to small for weldon 4.


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Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/10/2006, 12:26 PM   #328
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I use the same bottle all the time. I buy them like 6 at a time.



If they clog, hold a flame (match, lighter, candle, propane torch) under the needle to unclog it. It will make a tiny *pop* noise, and you can do this about 6 or 8 times before the needle is ruined.

I've used #3 and #4 with these and never had a problem. I almost only use #4 at this point. Doing all four sides of a sump at once isn't a big deal. I do the long side first, then each end. I pull out the pins on the long side, then a couple from the ends. Finally I glue the other long side, and then pull out all the rest of the pins on that side as well as the ends.

Same system for the top flange.

And James has it right: AcryLite FF. I prefer the blue film over paper, as it is easier to get off.


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Old 10/10/2006, 01:50 PM   #329
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highquality
I cant use the syringes, they're not "smooth" enough for me. When the solvent gets on the rubber plunger tip, it kind of "drags". I'm using good syringes,too. I just dont like the feel. I like the control of the bottle, as you can squeeze for more volume or release pressure to slow the flow.
I almost always use the yellow based needle applicator, I think 20 gauge. IIRC, the blue tip is 24g ??? You can really get around with the yellow needle. the blue is simply too slow for me on larger sumps, etc. But I must not be as strong as crazy Marc to squeeze the blue needled bottle so hard

Marc, what do you think of WO3? This was my first time with using it.


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Old 10/10/2006, 05:10 PM   #330
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I have the blue needle applicatoras well. thanks for the tip on glueing the bottom on. WO3 was a little messy for me also. I have WO4 now .


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Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/10/2006, 05:33 PM   #331
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I used to use Weld-On #3 but the cure time is too quick. You have about 15 seconds to react, where #4 gives you 45 seconds or so.


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Old 10/10/2006, 08:42 PM   #332
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do you ever have acrylic that is concave in a area or that you need to straighten out before glueing? straight edge and a clamp ?


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Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/10/2006, 10:20 PM   #333
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Sometimes I do need to make a sheet straight. This comes from sitting in a hot garage. It is best to store it standing up rather than lying flat, as it may bend to a new shape over time.


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Old 10/11/2006, 12:32 PM   #334
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I got these pins that say 12/ ( some other number) and some that are 17/ ( some other number) Im wondering what is too small? does the needle applicator tip actuallt slide inbetween the joint or does it slide at edge of joint and glue is pulled in to joint by suction or cpilarry or whatever you call it?


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Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/11/2006, 01:00 PM   #335
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Quote:
Originally posted by highquality
I got these pins that say 12/ ( some other number) and some that are 17/ ( some other number) Im wondering what is too small? does the needle applicator tip actuallt slide inbetween the joint
No, if the applicator needle will fit in between the two pieces then the "pins" are far too big.

Quote:
or does it slide at edge of joint and glue is pulled in to joint by suction or cpilarry or whatever you call it?
Yep, they call it capillary action, I call it surface tension, same thing

I don't know about the pin question since I don't use them, mayhaps others will know better.

HTH,
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Old 10/11/2006, 05:08 PM   #336
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Maybe this will clarify things for me. Are the acupuncture needles tips thinner than the size of the blue needle aplicators thickness?


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Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/12/2006, 04:23 PM   #337
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Im going to start in the garage. it might get cold tonight. somewhat anyway. How will the temperature affect the weldon process? The door will be closed. thanks


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/12/2006, 04:32 PM   #338
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Yes, much thinner.

You want to run the bottle at a 45 degree angle against the seam. The solvent will 'wick' into the joint, and should look completely wet without air bubbles or pockets. When you pull the pins, the upright piece will drop ever so slightly into the solvent and force out some glue and any air bubbles. If you use shims, don't shim too hard, but rather just apply enough pressure to evenly press the two pieces together from below.


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Old 10/12/2006, 04:59 PM   #339
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anything wrong with copper wire. i have some thin wire strands. perfect size


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/12/2006, 05:13 PM   #340
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Quote:
Originally posted by highquality
anything wrong with copper wire. i have some thin wire strands. perfect size
I wouldn't think so, it's really just the size (small guage) that you need to just slightly seperate the 2 edges of the acrylic.


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Current Tank Info: Now Defunct: 70 gal Reef 4/30/04, 29 gal Sump/Refuge, CPR SR-4 Skimmer, 4x65W PC, Maxijet 1200 PH, Aquaclear 500 HOB Filter, 90lbs Tonga Kaelini, 20lbs Tonga Branch. 65gal Hex Reef tank in the process of converting to Equus tank.
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Old 10/12/2006, 08:30 PM   #341
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I know Acrylic recomended .007 steel wire but cant find steel in that size.


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/12/2006, 08:32 PM   #342
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I've been using stripped down twist ties and they seem to be just about perfect for me.


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Current Tank Info: Now Defunct: 70 gal Reef 4/30/04, 29 gal Sump/Refuge, CPR SR-4 Skimmer, 4x65W PC, Maxijet 1200 PH, Aquaclear 500 HOB Filter, 90lbs Tonga Kaelini, 20lbs Tonga Branch. 65gal Hex Reef tank in the process of converting to Equus tank.
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Old 10/13/2006, 08:32 AM   #343
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For anything 1/4" and thinner, I use .007-.009" stainless wire - you can get it at Small Parts, Inc (link below). For anything 3/8" and thicker, I use stripped down twist-ties as Swedge suggests. The potential problem with copper wire is that solvents can cause immediate oxydation and leave some coloration in the joint.
http://www.smallparts.com/products/d...ions/saw%2Ecfm

HTH,
James


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Old 10/16/2006, 08:48 PM   #344
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I have some overhanging joint that are 1/8 inch or so. when I flush cut them with router do I need to worry that I am routing to much at once. did I leave too much? I have not tried flush cutting it yet so thought I would check on this,.


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Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/16/2006, 09:31 PM   #345
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No worries, I leave more than this on every joint.

James


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Old 10/17/2006, 12:08 PM   #346
H20ENG
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I used to use copper wires, and have never seen them oxidize. Not to say it cant happen- James has a good point. I still use them in a pinch, but have switched to the Twist tie wires simply for strength.
I have a sump with a tiny piece of copper wire imbedded in the joint. I let it set up too long and it was the last pin, which broke when I pulled hard on it. Its completely sealed in there, so no corrosion issues, and it did not affect the joint, as its melted in there. But, it does show the biggest downside to copper, IMO; its lack of strength. Stick with the steel or SS wire.


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Old 10/18/2006, 01:20 PM   #347
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Is it ok to use a 1/4 flush cut bit to route the teeth in overflow? Im doing it calfo style so i dont want to make a mistake like using wrong bit. bit has two blades on it not three


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/18/2006, 01:23 PM   #348
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sorry, its a 3/8 bit, not 1/4 . is bit two big? Should i use a straight cut bit instead? I have 1/4 collet on this bit as well


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Old 10/18/2006, 02:04 PM   #349
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Quote:
Originally posted by highquality
I know Acrylic recomended .007 steel wire but cant find steel in that size.
I used Electric guitar strings,they are .008" for the High E string ... close enough and I got a good bond when pulled. Any music store will have them and one string will go a long way for about $1.50


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Old 10/18/2006, 10:49 PM   #350
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Quote:
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sorry, its a 3/8 bit, not 1/4 . is bit two big? Should i use a straight cut bit instead? I have 1/4 collet on this bit as well
1/4" is better for teeth in a display tank. I used 3/8" for the refugium baffle as there isn't anything that needs to be kept in that zone, animal-wise.


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