Reef Central Online Community

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 04/27/2004, 01:58 AM   #101
Acrylics
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,228
Quote:
Originally posted by melev
Zephrant, I'm reviving this thread because my seams are still a tad messy. I'm getting good bubble free seams for the most part, but too much product oozes out.

I'm currently using twist ties that come with trashbags or sandwich baggies. What size wire would be ideal, and would it be something I can find at Home Depot perhaps? Or Fry's Electronics?
King Acrylite,
What type of material? what thickness? what solvent? how long are you waiting to pull wires? What is the surface prep on the material? Are the ooze bubbles large (bb size) or smaller?
My off hand guess is that the wires used are too big and you're waiting too long and you're using extruded material
Try using thinner wires, .007" is about all you need for the wire, twist ties are twice that (.014") which gets too much solvent in there, it dissolves plastic, and when you pull the wires it's gotta go somewhere. Assuming you're routing the gluing edges - you only need to have the wires in the a few seconds with extruded material as the stuff breaks down real fast.
BTW, if ya can't find anything locally, try http://www.http://www.smallparts.com...ptions/SAW.cfm
This is where I buy the malleable stainless wire.

King Acrylite - love it

James


Acrylics is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/27/2004, 09:58 AM   #102
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658
Hi James,

I'm using 1/4" Acrylite FF, with Weld-On #4. Edges are cut with a Freud blade on a table saw, then scraped with a razorblade, and hand sanded (a few strokes).

I put the piece on the wires, fill the void, and wait about 30 seconds. Then I pull the wires, and get a puddle in some zones. It isn't a flood, but I do get some oozing, and it is more than a BB. I'd post pictures, but...

I could speed up the wait time if necessary. I know I had to move more quickly with #3.

I'll have to find out where to buy .007 stainless steel wire. I'm going to assume it comes on a spool, right?

Btw, you are one of the few that gets my moniker.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/27/2004, 11:41 AM   #103
Acrylics
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,228
King Acrylite,

I'd stick with #4, #3 is the right "speed" but doesn't flow as well as #4.
Use a smaller wire, I screwed up the link above but it's http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/SAW.cfm
They are an excellent company to work with, you can peel strands off of a larger wire to get the right size if that's more convenient for you.
If you can wait only 5-10 seconds - this is usually plenty for extruded material IME.
The wire comes in 25' spools, I'm about out myself (I lose 'em) so if I buy more in the near future - I'll send ya some.
Maybe I'll change mine to King Polycast

Hope all is well,
James


Acrylics is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/27/2004, 11:51 AM   #104
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658


I've not seen you on r.a.m.r much lately, but I've been hitting it less often myself. I think I've just built my 70th sump this week.

I fixed the link and found the roll for $14, plus $8.45 UPS Ground.

So this stuff isn't a fine wire on a spool, it is stranded and I have to peel it apart?

I can definitely reduce the wait time before pulling wires.

It's good to be King.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/27/2004, 01:12 PM   #105
Acrylics
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,228
King Marc,
No, it is fine wire on a spool. I was just saying that if you have other wire around the house that's more conveniently available - you can use that instead. The wire is expensive, so if you do have something around the house - go for it.

I still go on RAMR once in a while to see what's going on but there's too much "other stuff" that I don't particularly care for. It seems better in here
BTW, congrats on the 70th, I'll have a beer (or 10) in your honor

James


Acrylics is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/27/2004, 01:19 PM   #106
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658
James, can you email me your email address and phone number? I'd love to have that on hand in case I need to reach you in a hurry some time.

Thanks for your suggestions. Enjoy the beers.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/27/2004, 11:24 PM   #107
Zephrant
Premium Member
 
Zephrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 3,237
Mark- As James says, the difference may be in the Extruded material. I've only used extruded tube, and just enough to learn that I hate dealing with it.

Zeph


Zephrant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/28/2004, 09:47 AM   #108
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658
That is nice to know. GP is darn expensive, and people don't want to pay for it, when it merely a sump.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/28/2004, 11:24 PM   #109
Drizzy
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 23
I have a question - hope you dont mind me posting on this thread... I have some cell cast acrylic I'm using for an aquarium and I'm using some non-cell cast acrylic for a built in wet/dry filter (its a small tank for my nephew) - what weld-on should I use and how long should I let it sit etc since I'm using both cell cast and non cell cast? thanks.


__________________
Easy on the noobs...
Drizzy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/28/2004, 11:32 PM   #110
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658
Cell Cast is stronger than Extruded. You can wait as Zephrant suggests in this thread (page 1) about 30 seconds. With Extruded, James just pointed out to wait only 10 seconds.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/29/2004, 12:12 AM   #111
Drizzy
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 23
Yeah that is where my problem lies. Using both types in a seam - how should I treat it? They set differently - the extruded "melts" a lot faster... so I was wondering what would be the suggested amount of time to wait. Should I just average the times?


__________________
Easy on the noobs...
Drizzy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/29/2004, 12:27 AM   #112
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658
Yes. I've been waiting 30 seconds on extruded for all my projects, and it is working just fine. Just not so pretty in the seams, as I admitted in a recent post.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/29/2004, 11:02 PM   #113
Zephrant
Premium Member
 
Zephrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 3,237
Sounds like a plan to me- Play with it a little with some scraps if you can.

Zeph


Zephrant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2004, 11:15 AM   #114
bulkhead
Premium Member
 
bulkhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 207
Sorry to bring this back from the dead again....

Marc, have you tied the thinner guage wire and 10 sec wait time yet? I'm just curious if it solved your problem?

I'm getting ready to attempt my first sump project. Not unlike you, I'm using FF because of the cost. Locally they want $200 a sheet for GP and $150 for FF. I ordered a sheet of FF from a guy on ebay, cut into thirds and shipped, for $107.

Assembly question, I read that most folks join the ends to the front and then all three to the back and then the box to the bottom. I'm curious if there is ever a problem lining up the bottom of the end pieces to the bottom of the front and back. It seems they would have to be perfectly aligned to get a good, flat, edge to join to the bottom piece...no room for error....Am I retarted and missing something or just over analyzing a simple procedure.... I practiced on some cheap 3/16 acrylic, trying to make a speciman container. I ended up with a crazy amount of bubbles. However, I didn't use the router on the edges, just the edge of a razor blade, weld-on 3 and didn't bother with the pins....so I guess the results are as expected....

I'm using weld-on 4, frued blade and using my router as a joiner to clean up the edges ever so slightly for the sump project. Any other advice before making a paper weight out of a sheet of acrylic????

Thanks...


bulkhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2004, 11:35 AM   #115
Acrylics
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,228
Quote:
Originally posted by bulkhead
Assembly question, I read that most folks join the ends to the front and then all three to the back and then the box to the bottom. I'm curious if there is ever a problem lining up the bottom of the end pieces to the bottom of the front and back. It seems they would have to be perfectly aligned to get a good, flat, edge to join to the bottom piece...no room for error....Am I retarted and missing something or just over analyzing a simple procedure
This will depend entirely on how you machine your pieces, if you use a jointer - this can be a real problem hence my aversion to these machines for tanks. I use a router table with a fence so you push the pieces between the fence and the router ensuring identical width (+/-.002" or so)

James


Acrylics is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2004, 01:12 PM   #116
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658
No, I'm still using twist tie wiring, as I keep thinking I should be able to buy the finer wire locally. This isn't a small town by any means, and if I'd just take the time to research, I bet I can find some nearby.

I have reduced my time, and it looks better.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2004, 01:45 PM   #117
bulkhead
Premium Member
 
bulkhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 207
Yeah Marc, I would think you could find something locally. I have some sewing pins, the ones with the plastic ends that you can get at walmart for less than a buck a package, they measure .026, so I plan to use those. I can see where the wire may be a little easier to work with though....

Thanks for the help guys, I've read a million of you all's posts, but it all runs together after awhile, so it's nice to clarify... Next time I find myself in Ft Worth, Portland or Spokane, I definately owe you guys a BEvERage or 10.....

Michael


bulkhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2004, 01:50 PM   #118
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658
Michael, I typed an indepth explanation of how I assemble a sump, but then thought it was TMI and resisted the urge.

If you want to give me a call, I can tell you over the phone instead if you wish.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2004, 04:46 PM   #119
bulkhead
Premium Member
 
bulkhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 207
Marc, that would be great....I really appreciate that....Just PM me you number....I've got a Little League game to go to right now, just let me know when is a good time....

Thanks


bulkhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/22/2004, 02:01 AM   #120
bulkhead
Premium Member
 
bulkhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 207
Just an update....finished the sump, it's not pretty, nor bubble free, but it holds water .... I cheaped out and just braced the ends.... When water testing, I filled it completely up and there was no detectable bow, by eye anyway. Considering what I have to pay for acrylic here, decided this would be good enough.

Marc, FYI, the refugium overflow seems to work fine. There are a few large bubbles, but nothing a couple of pieces of rock can't fix and it's quiet, which was my goal, couple more things left to do to it, but so far so good....

Thanks for the help.....Can't wait to start the next project....

Michael


sump.jpg


bulkhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/22/2004, 12:30 PM   #121
melev
Moved On
 
melev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,658


Is the pipe a little shorter than the refugium wall? It needs to be. And then you need to insert a screen into the tube to keep the macros and snails out. I used the rigid screen from a Mag pump, as it fit perfectly.


melev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/22/2004, 09:26 PM   #122
Simms142
Registered Member
 
Simms142's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SE PA
Posts: 334
For finer wire availible just about anywhere, go to a music store and pick up guitar strings, you can usually by cheap singles in the finest diameters.


__________________
Brian

Current Tank Info: 5.5 Reef in my Dorm, Mushrooms and ric dominated, 15 mixed reef
Simms142 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/23/2004, 02:05 AM   #123
bulkhead
Premium Member
 
bulkhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 207
Yeah, it's lower than the wall. I lowered it another 1/2 from what is shown in the picture and I'll find some sort of screen for it...


bulkhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/23/2004, 04:17 AM   #124
werew
Registered Member
 
werew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 317
Question

Has anybody else used light gauge "small" guitar strings instead of needles/pins???

I tried it and it worked great!

The smaller the gauge string I went with the more uniform my filet's are.

I just started a thread on my DIY acrylic tank, check it out!

I don't think I could be happier with my large acrylic project


werew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10/16/2004, 04:32 PM   #125
Bugger
Moved On
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: ontario
Posts: 1,137
What is a Jointer do you have a pic.

Here is my new router and Bit. Is this kind of Bit good you use on cast.


The bit is a 2 flute industrial carbide


Bugger is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:19 PM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright 1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.