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Old 10/16/2004, 10:25 PM   #126
Bored Robot
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Hey Bugger that's the same router I'm looking to buy. Do you have some sort of work bench you attach it to?


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Old 10/17/2004, 02:21 PM   #127
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No bench yet I spent all my money on the router.
I think my dad's gonna borrow his friends table saw for anouther projet maybe I can use that.


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Old 11/29/2004, 11:03 AM   #128
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other than routing to prepare the joints, can i simply use laser-cut edges? it seems like most pple prefer to route the joints to get a perfectly flat and straight edge, but i noticed that laser-cut edges are quite flat as well.


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Old 11/29/2004, 11:26 AM   #129
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Laser works quite well, I understand. It's just that most of us do not have access to a laser-cutter.

If you use a router table, be sure to practice on some scrap wood first. I can't tell you how much material I ground into oblivion before I figured out how to use the router table that I "made".


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Old 11/29/2004, 12:04 PM   #130
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Laser cut edges have inherent problems; quite simply they are not flat, 90deg cuts and the chances of crazing are much higher. That said, some folks do use them but IMHO they shouldn't be.

James


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Old 11/29/2004, 08:31 PM   #131
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thanks guys...


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Old 03/16/2005, 09:42 PM   #132
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I just used the smallest guitar strings, easy to poke yourself... but seem to work ok. Better than the smallest (22 guage) from HD... but cost alot more. I would get 3 strings to start with.

I am really hoping to find an acupuncturist. Those needles would be as thin as you can get, and have fancy handles on them


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Old 03/16/2005, 09:45 PM   #133
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That is a great idea!


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Old 03/16/2005, 09:56 PM   #134
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I just checked and they are.013". Acrylics recomends .007" I believe. I think the music store had one size smaller wires though.


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Old 03/16/2005, 10:32 PM   #135
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http://www.healthpointproducts.com/h...OVMTC=standard

First search... sure seems like a good deal.

.007" = ~ .18mm


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Old 03/16/2005, 10:40 PM   #136
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So are you thinking about these: NA3815WA1001

They are the last ones on this page:
http://www.1hpi.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cg...1/hp-21-1.html

I bet there is a minimum order you have to satisfy. One box is only $3, and with 100 needles that is plenty. I've bee reusing the same guitar string segments for months.

You are right about the conversion: .1778mm

http://www.chapelsteel.com/inches-millimeters.html


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Old 03/16/2005, 11:06 PM   #137
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I just made this order One of these aught to turn out alright
I am sure some folks in the local club will pick up some of them.
--------------------------------------------------
1 3.50 3.50 (SJ3X60WA1001) Sharp Japanese Style Acupuncture Needle D-0.20mm/G-3/L-60mm
1 4.50 4.50 (MAC-4010) Mac Spiral and Loop Type Handle Acupuncture Needle D-0.16mm/G-40/L-1.5inches
1 4.50 4.50 (MAC-3815) Mac Spiral and Loop Type Handle Acupuncture Needle D-0.18mm/G-38/L-1.5inches
1 3.00 3.00 (NA3620WA1001) Natural Brand Coil Handle Acupuncture Needle D-0.20mm/G-36/L-2.0inches
1 3.00 3.00 (NA3815WA1001) Natural Brand Coil Handle Acupuncture Needle D-0.18mm/G-38/L-1.5inches
1 3.50 3.50 (SJ2X40WA1001) Sharp Japanese Style Acupuncture Needle D-0.18mm/G-2/L-40mm
1 3.50 3.50 (SJ1X30WA1001) Sharp Japanese Style Acupuncture Needle D-0.16mm/G-1/L-30mm
--- -------- ---------- --------------------------------------------------

Sub-Total: 25.50

Total: 25.50


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Old 03/16/2005, 11:51 PM   #138
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You waste no time, do ya?!


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Old 03/17/2005, 12:25 AM   #139
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At this stage of the game, I have more money than time to waist. If I waist any more of the latter I will be out of the former.

Vicious cycle indeed!


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Old 03/31/2005, 10:05 PM   #140
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bump for a great thread
thanks for the information everyone.


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Old 03/31/2005, 10:27 PM   #141
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The acupuncture needles work great IMO. It is nice to not have to always be able to pull the "pins with your bare hands. The cheap Sharp brand ones are nice. They have a solid metal grip/vs a bendy spring like one. Any of them will do though.
I like the .20mm versions.
I might not have got the longest of each version though. Much longer than the width of your acrylic seems unneccesary and just adds an element of gangly-ness. Having a few of the .16mm is nice as well.


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Old 04/01/2005, 12:44 AM   #142
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I tried out some today, and wasn't as impressed as you were. I ended up with quite a few bubbles in my seams, more than usual. I think the thinness of the needles allows less solvent in the joints, which made getting good seams a real struggle for me.

I'll keep trying though. I used .18 and .20 needles on this sump.


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Old 04/01/2005, 03:31 AM   #143
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I just use those twist-t-ties from the market for those produce bags. Just strip some of the paper off of it and presto instant "pins" free


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Old 04/01/2005, 08:31 AM   #144
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I guess I should have got some of the thicker ones. They go up to .30mm.

I had far less bubbles than when I used the guitar wire... but we are not compairing apples to apples since I machined the edges better on this batch.

Did you get the "pins" in past the sharpened tips?


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Old 04/01/2005, 08:44 AM   #145
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Yes, they are pretty much fully under the 1/4" material, without coming out the other side. I use Weld-On #4, and with a jointer I cleaned up my edges first.

Using shims helped, but what seems to occur is as it cures, it sucks inward (shrinks) and creates air pockets down one side of the seam or the other. It was annoying, but I wanted to try it out. I'll keep at it in case it was just an issue this first time.


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Old 04/01/2005, 09:10 AM   #146
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I just checked. I did the sides on 5 "3/8"acrylic 8"x48"x24" tanks. I found one edge with some bubbles on the side. All the other edges were fine.
At first if a bubble would form while I was applying the weldon, I would poke it with a smaller needle. But, I found that to be sloppy and ineffective for the most part. So, I just let the sides go with bubbles after that. The bubbles would always squirt out when I pulled the "pins".

I know you have built tons of tanks, so let me know if my questions get annoying. I am trying to figure out if this method SEEmed to work for me this time, just happens to be a method that does work for me and not you, or you had some other problem this time. I would hate to make weak tanks thinking I had ones done well! Would you assume if the Weldon is wicking through to the other side I probably have strong welding?

You talked about needing to shim. I probably only had to use only 4 shimps for all 20 welds do you rest your pieces on foam to level out?

BTW: thanks for posting your results Marc.


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Old 04/01/2005, 02:22 PM   #147
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Zephrants examples on the first page illustrate how a shim is used with each pin to make the pressure even along the full length of the joint that is to be seamed.

I work on a sheet of MDF, not foam because the solvent will melt the foam pretty easily.

I build sumps, not display tanks, but I'd really like to get perfect seams one day. Seeing a few bubbles really aggravates me, even though I'm not a professional acrylic worker. Merely a hobbyist that tries to get things just right.

On the next sump, I'll see if I have better success.


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Old 04/03/2005, 09:56 PM   #148
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A few random thoughts- I still use basic sewing pins- The thicker pin allows more solvent, which makes for a clear joint. This overkill for 1/4", good for 3/8" and perfect for 1/2" material.

I put the pin all the way though to extend out a little on the other side.

I do get some marking from the extra glue around the joint, but I accept that as a trade off for perfectly clear joints.

Let it soak 30 seconds to a minute- The extra solvent action makes for a clean joint, but more ooze when you pull the pins. Again, I accept the tiny ooze mark in exchange for the clear joint.

I find that in the rare instance that I do get a bubble or two, it is because I did not get a clean pass through the router- I bumped the table, or something that made a divot in the side. Or I did not shim well enough.

The shims counter for the table that is not perfectly flat, as well as the acrylic that is not flat. I had a piece the other day that varied 0.100" over 12". It went from 0.290 to 0.390", and was supposed to be 3/8".

Zeph


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Old 04/03/2005, 10:15 PM   #149
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Theoretically, if I am getting perfectly clear welds with this size needle, then it should be strong right? I do have weldon come out both sides when the piece is lowered. Or do I need to be melting more of it to get a good weld?

Curently I am waiting 30-45 seconds to pull the pins. I am using mostly 3/8" acrylic.


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Old 04/03/2005, 10:55 PM   #150
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Since I'm using extruded 1/4" material, I pull the pins at 15 seconds as Zephrant and Acrylics both suggested to me in the past. Waiting longer has not proven to be at all beneficial.

I'm getting decent seams, but not perfect ones like Zephrant is describing. I'm sure part of it is the material is extruded and thinner than what many use instead.


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