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Old 02/06/2006, 05:35 PM   #201
GoldStripe
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I bought some 009 guitar strings today on my home from work. Hopefully those will do the trick as well. But I am a little ways from that right now. Standing the sides up on edge to clean them up I found that they are not "exactly" the same size. I don't have a good router table where I can push my material up against the fence with the router on the opposite end so I'm kinda stuck right now. I was thinking of posting a new thread in my club forumn to see if anyone does have one in the area. I'm talking about 1/32" difference and I started sanding them clamped together but after 15 min I got a little scared that I was going to take off too much material. Plus I don't have a nice long tablesaw fence to clamp to. Maybe I'm just paranoid. Thanks for checkin' the thread Marc


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Old 02/06/2006, 08:23 PM   #202
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I am using .30 ones now. They are too thick. I felt .16 was too thin. .20 is probably the best size for most applications.
I used to like the Sharp brand, but for thicker heavy tanks the head can come off the shaft if you really yank on it. The ones with the plastic heads are defiantly not on my list of favorites. I like to have a some really think ones for clearing the glue bottles or going for obnoxious bubbles in ruff cut pieces.


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Old 02/07/2006, 04:14 AM   #203
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Thanks NorthernCF. You mention "obnoxious bubbles in ruff cut pieces". How rough cut can the pieces be? In other words, how smooth does the edge need to be to glue it down. I practiced sanding on a piece of scrap first with 150, then 220, and finally with 600 just for the heck of it. The edges I did were almost clear surprisingly. I think the 600 wouldn't be necessary but how bout the 220?


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Old 02/07/2006, 11:41 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldStripe
... I was thinking of posting a new thread in my club forumn to see if anyone
does have one in the area.
James,

Shoot me an email or PM, you are more than welcome to come over and use my router and table.

Mike


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Old 02/07/2006, 11:56 AM   #205
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Hey Mike, I appreciate that.


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Old 02/07/2006, 12:46 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldStripe
Thanks NorthernCF. You mention "obnoxious bubbles in ruff cut pieces". How rough cut can the pieces be? In other words, how smooth does the edge need to be to glue it down. I practiced sanding on a piece of scrap first with 150, then 220, and finally with 600 just for the heck of it. The edges I did were almost clear surprisingly. I think the 600 wouldn't be necessary but how bout the 220?
When I mean ruff cut I mean I just glue on a shelf or thingamabob using the table-sawed edge. I wouldn't do this for building the structure of a tank though I never sand any edge to be glued. Either it is routered for a good edge, or a quick job on a top, shelf, cover, or any other non holding water part that does not need to look great, will jsut get the table saw and flame polish.


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Old 02/07/2006, 01:20 PM   #207
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Thanks NorthernCF


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Old 02/13/2006, 11:49 AM   #208
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Just FYI, for those interested. I found another source of acupunture needles which does NOT required the minimum order....

http://www.bluepoppy.com/store/needles.cfm

I just ordered two boxes. Both were 15mm/.5in and were 36 gauge (20mm) and 38 gauge (18mm) in size. At $4.50/box and about $5 for shipping, that's around $15. Not bad!

Make sure you skip to the bottom of the page and order the sharp brand needles.


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Old 02/13/2006, 05:01 PM   #209
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I am building a sump, and I don't care at all if the joints aren't clear and pretty. Is it okay structurally if I dry fit everything together at once (or most of it) and use the capillary method? I am using 1/4" extruded acrylic. Also, if this method is okay, which Weld-On should I use? And would it be a good idea to go over the seams afterwords with the thicker stuff, like Weld-On 16? I've never worked with acrylic before now, so any help would be appreciated.


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Old 02/13/2006, 05:34 PM   #210
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You should go waste some time on my site to get a better feeling for what you are about to do, once you're done reading here on RC. It's always better to read first before doing the work, so you'll have better success.

I use 1/4" extruded acrylic with Weld-On #4, and do my best to keep the seams as bubble free as possible. Each bubble is a spot that is not bonded, and a potentially weak area. Try to avoid these if you can, not for beauty but for security that your sump won't fail.

That being said, the first and second sump I built were made with 1/8" acrylic and Weld-On #16, and both held for 1.5 years. I replaced them with better sumps as I got more experienced working with the acrylic.

If you have a bad spot, you can use some #16 to fill in that area. I suggest getting a few nozzles at a hobby shop to put on the end of the #16 tube, to get better control and to push out a finer bead. #16 tends to shrink 33% as it cures, and can create air pockets as well as melt acrylic around it, so try to keep it down to a fine fillet if you can. It is a messier glue, that can be rather stringy.

Practice on some scrap pieces first, to get an idea of what you are dealing with. And ask questions here, because several people are subscribed and will chime in with answers.


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Old 02/13/2006, 06:40 PM   #211
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Melev I noticed you use the orange speed squares on the inside when you are gluing up. I have purchased these to increase my success rate and will cut the corners off. What do you use on the outside to keep a front or back panel for example from sliding off the base and to keep it exactly where you want it? Do you just hold with you hands?

Another note; I'm using an old sliding glass door on sawhorses as my work table. I figured this would be extremly flat and I've got the sawhorses positioned so the glass isn't bowing in the middle.


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Old 02/13/2006, 06:54 PM   #212
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Dan, that sounds good to me, and your project won't stick to the glass.

I use more orange speed squares on the outside as well. With the corner cut off, it will sit perfectly on the outer side and still be square against the upright piece, while slightly overlapping the flat piece on the bottom. I bet a picture would make more sense, right?


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Old 02/13/2006, 07:01 PM   #213
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LOL, yeah a picture would make more sense but I think I know where you're going. Again, I appreciate your help.


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Old 02/13/2006, 07:05 PM   #214
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The lack of the corner on the speed square allows the square to go past the bottom and touch the slightly inset front / back panel. Am I on the right track?


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Old 02/13/2006, 07:07 PM   #215
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Right! As long as the material is only 1/4" to 1/2" or so sticking out. This is the part that would be routed off later when the project has had time to fully cure.


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Old 02/13/2006, 07:41 PM   #216
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If the price difference isn't much to you. 3/8" is a heck of a lot easier to work with than 1/4". It would give you an easier first project!


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Old 02/14/2006, 04:29 AM   #217
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Yeah, I'm using 3/8 Northern. I've got my cuts and edges done. I'm just a little apprehensive on actually gluing it up. I know once I start there's no turning back


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Old 02/14/2006, 04:56 AM   #218
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldStripe
Yeah, I'm using 3/8 Northern. I've got my cuts and edges done. I'm just a little apprehensive on actually gluing it up. I know once I start there's no turning back
Dan,

If you want, come over and grab some of the scrap 1/4" that I have and practice gluing on it.

Mike


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Old 02/14/2006, 07:32 AM   #219
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/me is anxious to get to work on my new sump...

A, time time time. Grrr. Maybe in a week or two.


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Old 02/20/2006, 11:30 AM   #220
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Question for you all-

So I am trying to build a 2' cube. I got a price quote from a local acrylic dealer of 188.96 for a 3/8" clear cast acrylic for a 48x96 sheet. This will actually give me two extra 2X2 squares. They will do the cuts for free, and I have a 2 1/4hp dewalt router and a table saw if needed to finish the rest.

With a 2" lip around the top is 3/8th is enough?

What can I use to clean the edges for jointing, Can I use the router and what bit?


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Old 02/20/2006, 01:16 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally posted by drewdegenhardt
Question for you all-

So I am trying to build a 2' cube. I got a price quote from a local acrylic dealer of 188.96 for a 3/8" clear cast acrylic for a 48x96 sheet. This will actually give me two extra 2X2 squares. They will do the cuts for free, and I have a 2 1/4hp dewalt router and a table saw if needed to finish the rest.

With a 2" lip around the top is 3/8th is enough?

What can I use to clean the edges for jointing, Can I use the router and what bit?
A 48x96 will give you 6 pieces that are 2'x2' 4 sides and a top and bottom. Use the extra to build a sump with fi theyre charging you for a full sheet and not by the square foot. I just built one with 2" bracing and I used 1/2" material.


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Old 02/20/2006, 01:46 PM   #222
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I used to scrape the edges smooth with a utility razor blade in a wooden DIY holder, but I later bought a jointer that prepares all the edges that need gluing. It costs a little ($159), but it saves time and isn't hard on the ears like scraping was.


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Old 03/01/2006, 05:32 PM   #223
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Hi all,

looks like this has dropped down a bit now, but I'ved been reading your site melev, top stuff by the way!

I'm building myself some fluidised sand bed filters out of (probable) 8" acrylic tubing and then the rest of sheet acrylic, 6/8mm.

The only problem is the glue. I can't find Weld-on #4 on any UK site but have found Tensol 40 which is used for glueing acrylic but not sure if it's the equivilant to the Weld-On #4.

Thanks in advance.


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Old 03/01/2006, 10:00 PM   #224
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I don't know. I think you'd need to know the active ingredient perhaps. If they match, you've got a winner. Maybe James knows. He goes by "Acrylics" here.


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Old 03/02/2006, 04:05 AM   #225
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Oki dokey, cheers..

Here's where i found out about the Tensol glue, I think I picked the right one from the ones they mentioned...

http://www.k2a.co.uk/data/Workshop%20Handbook.pdf

Page 30.


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