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Old 11/19/2017, 08:01 AM   #1
snake661047
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46x46x24 acrylic

Hello all,

I am new to this site and to building my own tanks but not to saltwater. I have bought Joey's book which led me to this site. I'm curious to what everyone thinks good and bad about my upcoming build. It will be placed in wall on a corner so it will be viewable from three sides. The back of the tank will be accessible from the stair well going to the basement. I am bouncing all over the place on different pump sizes and what not. I am still trying to determine what size sump to build and types of filtration. In the past i used a refugium and a skimmer although i like the idea of the fluidized method. I am going to be using the solderless leds that joey used in a build. It will be a reef tank.

Thanks Josh


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Old 11/22/2017, 04:56 PM   #2
snake661047
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Really no imput


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Old 11/22/2017, 05:30 PM   #3
sde1500
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I mean, you didn't really ask a question. Just made some statements. What input would you like?


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My build thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2548422

Current Tank Info: 65 gallon mixed reef, Eshopps sump and HOB overflow, RO-110int skimmer, Reefbreeder 32" photons V1.
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Old 11/22/2017, 06:18 PM   #4
biecacka
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That size tank is sort of ambitious for a first time build. Either way, with some good practice, and a second or 3rd set of hands it could probably be done. Not easy, but it can be done.

Corey


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Old 11/22/2017, 09:47 PM   #5
rocsec1
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That would be a great size. Good luck.


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Old 11/22/2017, 09:53 PM   #6
ca1ore
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Sorry, who's Joey? My general advice to anyone contemplating a reef tank is to lie down until the feeling goes away.


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Simon

Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones!

Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs
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Old 11/22/2017, 09:58 PM   #7
Daddi0
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I have had tanks forever and after getting started in saltwater, I swore I would never have another plastic tank for reefing - too hard to keep clean, glass is sooo much better.
Cheers! and good luck


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65g display with 30g cryptic and 30g sump - 5g Mantis tank
29g bowfront reef - 100g turtle/cichlid tank - 45g goldfish tank
55 gallon tropical - 58 Oceanic w/sump in progress - 55g pod culture
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Old 11/23/2017, 11:20 AM   #8
biecacka
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I wouldn't trade my acrylic tank for glass ever. 3.5 years or so and going great. Sure it has a few scratches, but I can buff them out if I want to.

Corey


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Old 11/23/2017, 04:41 PM   #9
bblumberg
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Originally Posted by ca1ore View Post
Sorry, who's Joey? My general advice to anyone contemplating a reef tank is to lie down until the feeling goes away.
I believe he is referring to the self-styled "King of DIY". Some acrylic experts have issues with his videos about tank construction in other threads.


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Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x LumiLEDs 4000K neutral white, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 75G corner mixed reef (DIY LED), 90G fw Angelfish (CF lighting), 150G FW discus (4x 54W T5), 125 G FW Discus (CF), too many small tanks to mention
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Old 11/23/2017, 07:48 PM   #10
ca1ore
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Oh ok, thx. I don't watch YouTube Reef tank videos just as a matter of principle - too many knuckleheads parading as experts.


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Simon

Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones!

Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs
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Old 11/25/2017, 12:38 PM   #11
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I have had acrylic tanks in the past up to 200 gallons and they are nice but they do scratch easily and tend to bow if they are real long (I had one that was 7'). You can remove scratches to a point but it is never like new. Having said that I have built a few glass tanks and after taking a tour of a company that builds acrylic tanks I can say I would never attempt it. Getting the seams right is not for the faint of heart and polishing the edges is also not easy. I saw it done using a flame. With a glass tank you order the glass with polished edges and if you mess up a seam you can take off panel and try it again.


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100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium.
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Old 11/25/2017, 08:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bblumberg View Post
I believe he is referring to the self-styled "King of DIY". Some acrylic experts have issues with his videos about tank construction in other threads.
...and his electronics methods, and his plumbing methods.

He presents as a very charismatic figure on youtube. That's about the most positive thing I could say about him. The danger is that he presents himself as an expert but promotes half-baked ideas.


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"It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)
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Old 11/26/2017, 01:52 PM   #13
snake661047
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Thanks for all the replies. YA i was referring to the youtube guy. The only diy thing i'm going to do is the tank and maybe the sump. Glass is heavy and can break when hit. Being that this is going into a wall in the center of the house :I don't want something that could break around by kids. The question that i meant to ask was would would you guys recommend for pump, sump, and overflow sizing. I have done reef before a 60 and a 75 all glass setups both with sumps. I just ordered the first part of the setup and that was a 5 stage rodi from bulk reef. getting the parts as i get cash. The other thing about acrylic is i can get 5/8 for about 900 and 3/4 for 1100. I can not find a place to get bulk large size glass plus with a tank that size I am a little leary about siliconing it together. That is a lot of water and pressure. i mean I want a 24-28 inch water level. I want to use rapid led lighting ut i also need to keep the price down until i'm ready to put lps in.


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Old 11/26/2017, 04:09 PM   #14
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Im going to chime in here and give you my thoughts. Others may not agree. With my skill level this works for me. Maybe not everyone. If I am working with 1/2" or less cast acrylic, I find the pin method works just fine. A lot of practice is needed to make good bubble free tight seams. I will say this again. A lot of practice is needed .... A bit harder the longer the seams but I can do it. I can also route up to 1/2" just fine with what I have in my garage shop. This makes for great seams. I have found I am not so good at cutting and keeping things square. Lots of guides and clamps make it possible.
Anything over 1/2" I have the plastic supplier cut and then route it on their CNC machine. Costs more but the end product is better than what I am capable of doing.
I use the pin method and weld-on #4, on everything under 1/2 inch. You can search for some treads about this. Experts cover what they have done to perfect the method. Some even have pictures of layup with shims, overlap for the fillet ect....It works. Thicker than 1/2 inch I have been using weld-on #40. Its 2 part and takes some getting use to. Pieces need to be held in place at 90 degrees with a 1mm gap, back side taped and then tilted so you can get the stuff to run into and fill the seam. Takes a lot of practice and the stuff is not cheap nor avail everywhere.
Pumps. Depends on your overflow. If its a Bean Animal I would do 1-1/2 inch drain pipes and a pump that can put out somewhere around 2500 gph. This will work if you are going to use powers heads for most of your circulation.
Sump size. Bigger is better, really depends on what in the sump, skimmer ect...and I will leave it at that.
These are just ball park things, not knowing what you plan to keep, its hard to make the call.


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Old 11/27/2017, 04:36 PM   #15
snake661047
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Lapin, so if i get this right i have to use the in method as well as use weld on 40 and tilt the panel to apply the solvent and then place it back at 90 and then remove the pins. Or do i just tilt the panel and apply the solvent and tip it back to 90. The King of DIY made it seem so easy. This is starting to seem harder. But i work in custom fab and my neighbor has a wood shop with a router and a huge table saw and a plywood saw.


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Old 11/27/2017, 05:43 PM   #16
JTL
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I can't wait to hear how this turns out.


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John

100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium.
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Old 11/27/2017, 07:22 PM   #17
lapin
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I normally dont use both on the same project.

I use the pin method and weld-on #4, on everything under 1/2 inch.(solvent, thin like water, used with pin method by me) Lots of videos and info on this on line. Some dont use pins, making it very simple. I would not trust my joints if I did this. I feel you need a little space for the first 10 to 20 seconds to allow enough solvent to soften the joint before pulling the pins.

Thicker than 1/2 inch I have been using weld-on #40. ( 2 part, kinda like liquid resin for casting. Needs 1mm gap between pieces for it to flow into. The stuff will flow into the joint a lot better if you angle the pieces) You leave it at an angle until cured before moving on to the next panel

This is one of many good links. Weld-on #4 method plus assembly order.
https://www.professionalplastics.com...nAquarium2.pdf


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Old 11/27/2017, 08:09 PM   #18
snake661047
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ok now i understand, but what do you use for the 1mm gap. I will be over 1/2 inch no matter what so I will be sticking the #40 and that method. Unless i can find a place to purchase glass at a good price.


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Old 11/27/2017, 08:13 PM   #19
snake661047
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ok that link you posted tells me that i can use 1/2 if i keep the height at 24". Now i assume that is water line, or i hope so anyways. I had been following manufacture specs before and thought that it was a little much. Of course i am euro bracing the tank.


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Old 11/27/2017, 08:22 PM   #20
snake661047
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Depends on your overflow. If its a Bean Animal I would do 1-1/2 inch drain pipes and a pump that can put out somewhere around 2500 gph. This will work if you are going to use powers heads for most of your circulation.
Sump size. Bigger is better, really depends on what in the sump, skimmer ect...and I will leave it at that.
These are just ball park things, not knowing what you plan to keep, its hard to make the call.
What is that


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Old 11/27/2017, 08:23 PM   #21
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Oh and my plan is a mixed tank but not really going to get into sps. mostly leathers and lps and fish.


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Old 11/28/2017, 06:55 AM   #22
lapin
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What is that
Google "bean animal overflow"

Its just 1 type of overflow configuration for a tank like the "durso" is.


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Old 11/28/2017, 08:17 AM   #23
lapin
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Originally Posted by snake661047 View Post
ok that link you posted tells me that i can use 1/2 if i keep the height at 24". Now i assume that is water line, or i hope so anyways. I had been following manufacture specs before and thought that it was a little much. Of course i am euro bracing the tank.
You are going to find a lot of variations in thickness recommendations. Look long enough and someone will say you can build anything out of 3/8 no matter how tall. I personally over build. Its a sickness. I would stick to the Acrylic Manufactures recommendations. You may not like what they say but they are in the business of selling a product and know it well. There are too many variables to take a chance on ruining $1000's in materials and having to start over because you went to thin then leaned on the top of the tank while cleaning and had a seam or side crack or something. These are just my experiences. As the disclaimer at the bottom says "Results May Vary".


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Old 11/28/2017, 03:55 PM   #24
snake661047
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I see that would be an ideal set up. Space really isnt going to be an issue. What size acrylic would you use for a 24" water line?


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Old 11/28/2017, 04:56 PM   #25
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ok now i understand, but what do you use for the 1mm gap.



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