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Old 11/19/2005, 03:25 AM   #76
goby1
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Zephrant, I found this thread by searching for your name after reading the acrylicman thread. I still have a question regarding flush trimming. Will it suffice to use a bit with the bearing on it? How is the tolerance on these bits.... i.e. will they remove any of the acrylic that the bearing is gauging off of? Would I set the depth of the bit so that the bearing is JUST below the edge to be flush trimmed? Is a router table (using a straight bit with no bearing) vastly superior? Basically, will freehand with a bearing-style bit suffice? Thanks so much.... G1


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Old 11/21/2005, 10:16 PM   #77
Zephrant
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The standard bearing bits work fine for me- The cheap ones may be off by .005" or so, but usually not enough to notice.

For "flush trimming" I use the bearing bits. But for cutting all the pieces to the same width, I use the fence and a standard bit.

Zeph


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Old 11/21/2005, 11:18 PM   #78
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The problem with an aptasia filter is, how do you keep them from getting into the main system? I don't think you can!
I have been thinking of building one like your set up, mounted in my canopy, above my main tank as pod refugium. Let me know if you want to get ride of them.


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Old 11/22/2005, 02:00 AM   #79
spk
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Laverda,

I did something similar some time ago but used glass in stead.
Here is the thread that describes the process.

Pod Refugium

I have set it up again in my second tank and it is working well. But, the one change I would make is to increase the outlet size.

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Old 11/22/2005, 05:44 PM   #80
maxxII
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Laverda,
Use UV between the tank return and the Aiptasia filter. They wont survive the trip.
Nick


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Old 11/23/2005, 07:32 AM   #81
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MaxxII,

Are you seroius. Does that actually work?

Steve


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Old 11/23/2005, 08:28 AM   #82
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Yeah.

If the flow rate through the UV is slow enough, it will kill just about anything that travels through it. You just want to make sure the UV is sized appropriately for the amount of water you want to run through it....and like I said, you want to run it slow.
Most good UV manufacturers will include two flow ratings on their UV Sterilizers, a water clearing (algae) rate (which will be higher) and a sterilization flow rate, (which will be slower) and you might want to go a bit slower than that one...

Nick


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Old 11/23/2005, 12:10 PM   #83
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SPK
Nice set up. Mine will have to atach to the canopy some how. Probably make it something like this end view>
l__
l__l
l


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Old 11/23/2005, 12:18 PM   #84
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MaXX that is good to know for the future. They pass thru a sponge by the way.


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Old 11/23/2005, 01:24 PM   #85
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Laverda,

Does your tank not have brace bars? Or could you change the design somewhat. I have some other ideas in this too.


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Old 11/23/2005, 04:35 PM   #86
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I want to mount it above my lights and run a reverse light cycle.


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Old 10/29/2006, 10:39 AM   #87
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I'd like to see how this looks now...


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Old 10/29/2006, 11:58 AM   #88
Carman34L
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yeah me too


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Old 10/30/2006, 11:44 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zephrant

Update:

About two weeks ago I took them off line. I've upgraded my lighting to MH, and can't run just two VHOs on my ballast (have to run all four). I was getting a lot of detritus in them, and algae growth too. I moved everything back to the main tank under the MH.

I have not decided what to do with them yet- Maybe make a non-lighted rock area, or a settlement filter out of them.

Zeph
So to answer your question, they look dry right now. They turned out to be too much of a pain to keep clean- very good debris traps, and I hate tank maintenance so did not clean them often.


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Old 10/30/2006, 11:45 PM   #90
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Ahh I see. But they were definitely a cool idea.


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Old 10/31/2006, 08:42 AM   #91
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Nice idea.

I was thinking that if I did this I would hang this system on the wall using those steel shelving rails you can pretty much get at any hardware store. You can get some havy duty ones and it would make wall placement or adjustment eaisier. Just my 2 cents.


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Old 10/09/2017, 06:51 PM   #92
Zephrant
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One more note- Don't flame polish tanks if you want them to last for more than 10 years. The stresses that are created will eventually relieve, and cause micro cracks.

These raceways are still fine, but they have been dry for 10 years now (I'm thinking of putting them back in to service with LEDs). Some other tanks I made near this time have cracks from crazing.

Always buff the acrylic to get a good polish, and keep the heat down.


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Old 10/09/2017, 08:20 PM   #93
traveller7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephrant View Post
One more note- Don't flame polish tanks if you want them to last for more than 10 years.
Now you tell me.

Was a literal "lol" when I saw you post in this ancient thread Zeph. Glad you are well.


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Old 10/10/2017, 12:02 PM   #94
Zephrant
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Thx- Took some time off of posting here, and didn't do much with my tanks other than maintain them. Back in it now though.


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