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Unread 07/29/2008, 06:57 PM   #1
AcroSteve
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220gal Plywood/steel hybrid. Pull up a chair, this will take a while.

For all you fellow DIY junkies out there, I am going to maintain this build log of my next tank. It will take a while, so be patient.

The tank will have the front and one end glass. I plan on joining the two glass panels directly to each other with no wood in the corner. I will be running a wavebox, so I want this a rugged as practical. For extra insurance and to minimize the size of the perimeter braces, I will be using some angle iron encased in epoxy and wood. The glass will be 5/8 or 3/4 low iron.

The back of the tank will be right up against the wall, so I ruled out a centered location for the overflow plumbing. However, In order to run the wavebox the best way possible, I did come up with a solution to keep the overflow in the center of the rear wall of the tank, but the plumbing will be on one end.

Also, do to the certainty of some tank inhabitant getting into the overflow, I will be incorporating a viewing panel in there also. It will either be 1/4 or 3/8 glass.

The inside of the tank will have a several layers of fiberglass cloth in addition to the epoxy. Outside of the tank will also be glassed. Internally, my main objective is to have a very thick layer of protection so that there will be no chance of causing a chip that would allow water to reach the wood. This is a common weakness I see on many plywood tanks.

Anyway, where is the 1st batch of pics. Nothing has been glued yet, and I have not finalized the front to back depth yet.

Back of tank. Bracing will be glassed. All screws throughout are 1-5/8 every 3" or so material is 11 ply birch plywood.



Inside of overflow box. Probably will be an additional hole for 1" bulkhead. The two existing holes are for 1-1/2.





Compartment for wavebox.



From the inside.


99% of the joints are either rabbet or dado joints.


And the outside.





And the overflow weir.







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don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260
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Unread 07/29/2008, 07:04 PM   #2
AcroSteve
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Thanks to a few that inspired me.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1026436

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=716410

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=686757

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=674932

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1183020


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260
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Unread 07/29/2008, 07:07 PM   #3
Conesus_Kid
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Very nice work!

These guys have a lot of experience with plywood tanks and would love to see you post there as well!

Can't wait to see more!


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Unread 07/29/2008, 07:10 PM   #4
AcroSteve
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Yes, I am familiar with the Fingerlakes site. I should have mentioned it.

Good stuff there.


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260
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Unread 07/29/2008, 08:19 PM   #5
kcress
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Nice indeed. You are really stretching the flexibility of your medium with the channeling , etc.

Kind of jarring to see this nice furniture that someone is planning to fill with water down the road.


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Unread 07/29/2008, 08:28 PM   #6
Lucky Strike
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Fudge's tank was really inspriational.. your wood work is top notch!

*Comfortably recilnes chair.. sips cold beer awaiting updates*


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Unread 07/29/2008, 08:37 PM   #7
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Looks very well thought out and well constructed-

Tagging-


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Unread 07/29/2008, 09:37 PM   #8
EBOLII
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Is that area on the top left going to be a open/closed void? This is exciting!
I will indeed be watching

What epoxy technique will you use with the bulkheads?


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Unread 07/30/2008, 03:20 AM   #9
AcroSteve
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I am not sure what area you are referring to.
If you mean this, yes it will remain open. The water from the overflow weir will travel through here to get to the pipes.


As far as technique, I am also planning on coating the overflow with fiberglass and epoxy. I will wrap the glass down through the hole.


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260
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Unread 07/30/2008, 04:22 AM   #10
EBOLII
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other side.....


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Unread 07/30/2008, 06:56 AM   #11
MinibowMatt
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awesome! Very very well thought out!
how much resin do you figure this will take to complete?


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Unread 07/30/2008, 08:32 AM   #12
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very nice work, excellent planning and execution!! Tagging along for progress


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Unread 07/30/2008, 10:33 AM   #13
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I will be taggin along for this, the build is looking good so far.


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Unread 07/30/2008, 11:03 AM   #14
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Gorgeous already. Can't wait to see it finished.


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Unread 07/30/2008, 06:23 PM   #15
AcroSteve
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Quote:
Originally posted by EBOLII
other side.....
Ah, yes.

That is a void area. Only really there because I wanted to continue the external overflow to the edge of the tank so it also serves as a brace which will keep the back wall straight.

Most likely, it will be a place I collect salt creep and dust in. :

The overflow will only be about 1/4" from the wall in the house, so this will also catch any fish that might happen to try carpet surfing.


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260

Last edited by AcroSteve; 07/30/2008 at 06:38 PM.
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Unread 07/30/2008, 06:35 PM   #16
AcroSteve
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Thanks for the complements.

Just by the seat of my pants, I figure I will need to buy 2gal of epoxy resin which will net about 3 gal of mix. I already have at least a half gallon of West system left from various other projects. I do always try to keep it on hand.

I have some additives for adhesion and fairing. After the wood basic construction is done and I have all the joints filleted with epoxy, I might switch systems and use MAS epoxy.

The literature for the MAS totes one advantage of no amine blush to contend with. I like that.

The cost is nearly the same. The West is a little more.. $108/gal vs the MAS @ 84/gal. before shipping.


I plan on doing some vacuum bagging too. Probably some black fiberglass too.


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260

Last edited by AcroSteve; 07/30/2008 at 07:02 PM.
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Unread 07/30/2008, 07:20 PM   #17
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Looking pretty sweet Steve, just a note might as well put blocks in the overflow to hold the eggrate as I can see someone headed to the basement.

Why use the birch ply, why not 3/4 BC exterior grade?


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Unread 07/30/2008, 07:22 PM   #18
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Why such a steep overflow? Won't the velocity cause more noise?


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Unread 07/30/2008, 07:46 PM   #19
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This is the first thread I have read on plywood tanks and I was wondering what are all the advantages over building one out of all glass. Seams like a lot of work compared to glass.
Regards,
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Unread 07/30/2008, 08:32 PM   #20
EBOLII
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"vacuum bagging and some black fiberglass?" again I am curious do tell of this ideology please. This is a great project are there links to your other stuff?


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Unread 07/30/2008, 10:52 PM   #21
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excellent craftsmanship so far! cant wait to watch the process for how you seal the tank with epoxy and everything else.


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Unread 07/31/2008, 03:36 AM   #22
AcroSteve
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Quote:
Originally posted by radone
Why such a steep overflow? Won't the velocity cause more noise?
I don't think it is that steep, but I also did not want to build it with less slope and then find out somewhere down the road it will not handle the flow I might want to put through it.

As far as noise, I am trying to keep it to a minimum, and the water level in the overflow box will be at least as high as where the water enters it from the through.

I went with birch because it has many more plys than regular b/c plywood. And the surface finish alone would have been enough reason not to use the b/c. I want something smooth.


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260
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Unread 07/31/2008, 03:38 AM   #23
AcroSteve
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It is a lot of work compared to glass, but it will be cheaper - by a long shot, and it will be totally custom.

I imagine a tank of this design out of glass would be over 6k

You can check out my photobucket page for pics of some of the other stuff I have made. Click on the red house.


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260
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Unread 07/31/2008, 05:08 AM   #24
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I am building one out of wood and epoxy now (frag tank). You can check it out in Coral Prop forum under 4' x 4' tank. Anyways if you are using metal halides you should take into account what UV radiation will do to the epoxy. Epoxy is UV sensitive and will break down with time. This could be an issue in several years time or less. Pigment helps as it lessens light penetration into the layers. I am still trying to figure out how to protect my tank. You might want to look into using graphite powder as a filler if you are going to dye the epoxy black. This adds some UV protection and abrasion resistance. Anyways I think you will probably need in the range of 4-5 gallons for a thick coat. I was originally going to use MAS but many of the new low viscosity slow curing epoxies dont have Amine blush. The stuff Im using cost 50 something for 1.5 gallons and didnt blush. I still sanded each layer though for better adhesion between the layers.


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Unread 07/31/2008, 09:00 AM   #25
AcroSteve
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Thanks.

I am aware of the UV issue and I was planning on using some epoxy paint from AquaticEcosystems.\\I found a vendor online that sells black fiberglass, so I wasn't planning on tinting or dying anything. I was thinking using the black in case there where any chips in the paint down the road. They would blend in better.


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"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --


don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'!

Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260
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