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Old 01/11/2005, 09:21 AM   #1
tboned
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$15 PVC Overflow

some one asked me to post this
it should cost around $15 (less the tool cost)

all the sizes are the sizes I used for mine but you can change the sizes to anything you want as long as you don't change the basic lay out (or it will not work)


my sizes will put the water level just above the black (or brown) plastic lip on an AGA

To adjust the water level down you need to shorten G and H
To adjust the water level up you need to lengthen G and H
(just do not put the cross above D and K)


COMPLETED



PLANS W/SIZES



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Old 01/11/2005, 09:30 AM   #2
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Okey, I'm confused....... I understand why this overflow works, but why did you make something like this? Just seems like a large amount of work for something that's not that complicated to begin with.


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Old 01/11/2005, 09:31 AM   #3
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What in the world does all that do?


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Old 01/11/2005, 09:35 AM   #4
tboned
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Quote:
Originally posted by TacoKing
Okey, I'm confused....... I understand why this overflow works, but why did you make something like this? Just seems like a large amount of work for something that's not that complicated to begin with.
Because When I switched over my fresh to salt I only had 2 inches behind my tank for an overflow and I couldn't see spending 60-80$ on an overflow that was just going to set on the side of my tank


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Old 01/11/2005, 10:08 AM   #5
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its the PVC PRETZEL!


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Old 01/11/2005, 10:38 AM   #6
Nolte919
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So, does water flow into A and N, and out of O? Why is there a cap on R, shouldn't it be open to prevent a siphon?


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Old 01/11/2005, 11:06 AM   #7
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It seems to me that you want the siphon. R is capped once you get the siphon going. How would it work if R was open? Maybe I am just confused like everyone else though.


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Old 01/11/2005, 11:10 AM   #8
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Wow. I just don't get it. Heck if it works, more power to you. How does it work during a power outtage? That's the key. How about a picture of what it would look like in the tank?


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Old 01/11/2005, 11:22 AM   #9
sjm817
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What the...


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Old 01/11/2005, 11:42 AM   #10
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I think he's messing with us guys. )


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Old 01/11/2005, 11:45 AM   #11
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He did alot of work to be messing with us haha


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Old 01/11/2005, 11:50 AM   #12
Nolte919
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I don't think he's messing with us.

Since the left and right sides are identical let's just concentrate on the left side. I think D is the part that goes over the tank. Sections A, B, C, D, E, F, and G are all filled with water during normal usage. As the water rises above A it will also rise in G and pour out of O into the sump. The pink check valve is to start the siphon and remove any air that might get in there. In the event of a power failure the level of water in parts A and G will be equal and the siphon will be maintained throughout the entire red section. When the power starts up the siphon will continue.

Of course I don't even own an aquarium so I could very easily be completely wrong.



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Old 01/11/2005, 11:50 AM   #13
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Could you spread the whole thing out to look like the diagram and have the overflow entries on either side of the tank.

That way G and H would be the same length an as well as E&J, C&L and A&N.

Also, how do you account for a power outage?

Thanks,
speakeraddict


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Old 01/11/2005, 11:57 AM   #14
haz-matt
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it took me a minute to figure it out, but this makes perfect sense, and gives me an idea for my own over flow situation. it looks like instead of using 2 inletes form the tank you could simplify it and just do 1 as long as the PVC is braced so it does not shift. The picture Tbone has makes it look more complicated then it realy is.

Thanks, Tbone good idea

Later,
Matt


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Old 01/11/2005, 02:59 PM   #15
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wow, why didnt' I think of that... I might just sell the acrylic overflow I made and use your idea. It would really nice to have more room back there. Have you had any problems with air getting sucked down A and N?

thanks,
doug


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Old 01/11/2005, 02:59 PM   #16
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wow, why didnt' I think of that... I might just sell the acrylic overflow I made and use your idea. It would really nice to have more room back there. Have you had any problems with air getting sucked down A and N?

thanks,
doug


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Old 01/11/2005, 03:08 PM   #17
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Shouldn't having P&Q the same height as A&N and having R above them work like an external durso and quiet things down?

I think I am going to try this on a spare 10 gallon tank in the garage and bucket and simulate power outages tonight.

speakeraddict


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Old 01/11/2005, 03:20 PM   #18
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can you please post a pic of this thing on a tank working. Im still at a loss trying to see how this is applied.


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Old 01/11/2005, 03:52 PM   #19
tboned
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sorry about the cap I for got to mention I have holes drilled in the cap to keep the noise down and to keep any "stuff" from getting down in the water


A and N go inside the tank

D and K rest on top of the tank

To Start the siphon you need to cover N and O until you draw water out the check valves




Quote:
As the water rises above A it will also rise in G and pour out of O into the sump. The pink check valve is to start the siphon and remove any air that might get in there. In the event of a power failure the level of water in parts A and G will be equal and the siphon will be maintained throughout the entire red section. When the power starts up the siphon will continue.

Question:
Quote:
Could you spread the whole thing out to look like the diagram and have the overflow entries on either side of the tank
Answer:
Yes I originaly had the plan to put the inlets in the corners of the tank right beside a set of powerheads

Answer:
Yes you can make the left side the same as the right
the reason Y I did it different is so that I could make intertwine and make the overall footprint on the back of the tank smaller


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Old 01/11/2005, 03:59 PM   #20
tboned
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Quote:
Originally posted by haz-matt
it looks like instead of using 2 inletes form the tank you could simplify it and just do 1 as long as the PVC is braced so it does not shift
I use two inlet
1. incase one sipon quit working you still have the other going
2. I used the dual inlet to make it super stable on the back of the tank


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Old 01/11/2005, 04:02 PM   #21
ddenham
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woah ...looks like one of those Escher prints that make me dizzy

Actually I guess it would work...


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Old 01/11/2005, 04:23 PM   #22
Inflames
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If C,D,E and J,K,L are trying to emulate a U tube then why would you need anything after C and L? You dont need the extra elbows and pvc, it will draw water in normally.


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Old 01/11/2005, 04:26 PM   #23
Nolte919
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Quote:
Originally posted by Inflames
If C,D,E and J,K,L are trying to emulate a U tube then why would you need anything after C and L? You dont need the extra elbows and pvc, it will draw water in normally.
To skim the surface of the water instead of drawing it from the bottom of the tank.


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Old 01/11/2005, 04:32 PM   #24
tboned
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oh your good


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Old 01/11/2005, 04:41 PM   #25
tboned
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due to the fact that the ice storm around christmas killed every tank I own

here is what it looks like on a tank






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