How to smooth out 4x4's?

[RicoJa]

I want to build a stand to match my bed frame. My bed frame is build with 4x4s. So I want to build a stand with the four corners with 4x4s. I went to home depot and lowes and I found some 4x4s but they were all rough. Can anyone suggest the best way to smooth out the 4x4s? I am thinking of using a belt sander to smooth out each side.

Any suggestions?

Ambro

[dhogan]

Get one of these:

http://www.poolewood.co.uk/acatalog/PIC999406.jpg

[RicoJa]

Ummmm.. NO!! But thanks for the bump. Anyone else? :)

[dhogan]

Well that's a sander, so I'm recommending a belt sander. The only good thing about the above is you don't have to worry about creaing uneveness with the belt sander.

[iansfishy]

um i think thats a planer. look around -other places will have planed wood

[Young Frankenstein]

You can laminate 4x4 s for a better look like oak etc

[Young Frankenstein]

Or get a cheap home depot sander for about $ 35.00 it will do the job with some skill, its a must when you do wood work.

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10369810#post10369810 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iansfishy
um i think thats a planer. look around -other places will have planed wood

Um no that is a thickness sander...

[BeanAnimal]

What do you mean by "smooth them". Are they rough, or are they warped?

[hemi18]

if they are warped..get better ones...if they are rough...strap some sand paper to a sanding block of some sort..and use good old fashion elbow grease.

belt sander will work well for removing large amounts of material but bot very good for precision work. if elbow grease is not an option and you want a suitable power tool, use one of those B&D Mouse things. If you don't want to keep it....use it and then take it back. tell them it didn't work they way you thought.

Also 4x4's are usually treated lumber so there will be a high moisture content in the wood. This moiture is also toxic and will make the sanding more difficult.

if they are treated, then i would go with laminating them with matching 1/8" material.

[BeanAnimal]

use it and then take it back. tell them it didn't work they way you thought. That my friend would be theft, no different than shoplifting. Crap like that is why the rest of us pay so much for items and the quality is so low. What a freakin dirtbag move.

I suspect if you are advocating the practice, then it is something you do regularly. It speaks volumes about your character.

It is amazing what some of you folks consider acceptable behavior. Who in the world did you get your values from?

[hemi18]

relax bean...this is not something i advocate or do, i guess my statement came across looking this way so let me clarify...

if you buy a tool to sand your 4x4's (which are treated as a standard practice) the sand paper is going to get clogged with wet wood (pulp) and will not work properly...soooooooo

buy it and keep it, or buy it and take it back b/c it didn't do what you wanted.

[BeanAnimal]

Thank you for clarifying your statement... If that is truley what you meant then I apologize.

It really burns me up when people buy items and use them with the intent of returning them after they are done with them. Not a week goes by here at RC without somebody advocating the practice for some tool or piece of equipment.

Just two weeks ago, I had to exchange (4) wet tile saws to the local big box store. EVERY ONE OF THEM was used and returned.

Stand at a local HD or LOWED or Wal-Mart one day and watch the number of returns they get per hour. Notice how many of them are used items and the person wants the money back. They do not go shop for another replacement, they just turn and leave the store. The practice has become epidemic.

[hemi18]

when i buy tools i keep them..even if i don't need them anymore, heck i buy tools and never use them but think someday i will need them. maybe this is why i can't move in my garage...

anyway...sorry to anyone if my statement came across as advocating this practice.

BUY FROM THE BACK OF THE SHELF! returns will NEVER be put there...

[hemi18]

when i buy tools i keep them..even if i don't need them anymore, heck i buy tools and never use them but think someday i will need them. maybe this is why i can't move in my garage...

anyway...sorry to anyone if my statement came across as advocating this practice.

BUY FROM THE BACK OF THE SHELF! returns will NEVER be put there...

[FUA]

are your 4by4s treated, if so that is why they are so rough looking. HD sells a non-treated 4by4 that is sanded and doesn't have a lot of knots. they are like twice the price of a treated one because they are made out of a harder, denser pine than most of the typical treated stuff.

[samtheman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10370144#post10370144 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Thank you for clarifying your statement... If that is truley what you meant then I apologize.

It really burns me up when people buy items and use them with the intent of returning them after they are done with them. Not a week goes by here at RC without somebody advocating the practice for some tool or piece of equipment.

Just two weeks ago, I had to exchange (4) wet tile saws to the local big box store. EVERY ONE OF THEM was used and returned.

Stand at a local HD or LOWED or Wal-Mart one day and watch the number of returns they get per hour. Notice how many of them are used items and the person wants the money back. They do not go shop for another replacement, they just turn and leave the store. The practice has become epidemic.

Where are your getting your data? How many is an epidemic?

[BeanAnimal]

Yet another childish quip from Sam... Did mommy let you use the computer again today? :D Come on Sam your moronic insults and attempts at witty jabs are usually a little bit better than that. Please don't let us down like that... why not try a little harder to show us all what an *** you are.

[BeanAnimal]

Ohh btw sammy...

If you do a little research on "refund fraud" or "refund theft" you will find more than you want to know.

There are warehouses full of the returned goods. They can not be sold as new. In the past the goods were sent back to the OEM for repackaging and recertification as "refurbished". However the volume of returns has exploded exponentially and these goods simply cost to much to recertify, so they are dumped at auction to be sold at discounters and on eBay, etc. We the consumer pay the cost of this "dumping".

Most large retailers have implemented software to track the return patterns of consumers and flag those that fit a profile of fraudulent activity.

Sam if you are honestly interested (You did ASK where and how many didn't you?) why don't you talk to a few big-box store managers. They will be glad to explain the problem to you. Ohh wait, you don't really care about the answer, you just asked to be a troll.

[Fiziksgeek]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10370581#post10370581 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by samtheman
Where are your getting your data? How many is an epidemic?


Its completely true...former Lowes employee here. People will try and return anything and everything regardless of its condition.

Once, I even had a guy try to return 2 or 3 pcs of siding from a bundle of 10 pcs, and wanted to get a full refund for all 10. He was complaining about the quality of the finger joints. I got called over to deal with the complaint. My response was "Sure, the customer is always right, let me send someone out to your truck to help unload the remaining pcs immediately! We will process the return, and have the money waiting when you come back in, just sign and go". Well...he forgot to mention that the other 7 or 8 pcs of siding were on his house and he had no intention of taking them down, but yet he still deserved a full refund....

Used tool return is an epidemic. Big box stores like Lowes and HD have relatively low margins, and rely more on volume than pricing to make a profit. For an average store, the losses from things like returned damaged good that cannot be returned to the manufacturer can be in the hundreds of thousands per year.

Of course, dont get me wrong, I am not saying that if there were no losses to the company that all of that savings would be passed on to the customer, but some of it would!

[BeanAnimal]

Fizi...

Sam only posts here at RC to be a jerk. The guy is either a young child or a sadly misguided adult who finds comfort in trying to belittle others with attempts at witty insults and profound statements. Kind of amusing isn't it :)

[Fiziksgeek]

Anyway, back tot he issue at hand. There are only 2 ways to get a furniture like finish on the 4x4s. You have to either buy them that way, or make them that way.

Buying is simple, just gotta find the right ones, but expect to pay more $$ for finished wood, and they will still likely need a little sanding.

If the 4x4s you looked at just have a rough finish, but are straight (now bowing or twisting) then sanding or planing is the way to go. A planner would be nice, makes the job quick, and then just a final finish sanding on top. You might be able to find a local shop that will do this for you for a small fee. If its not too rough to begin with, sanding might not too too difficult right from the get go.

[Fiziksgeek]

Edit: probably not appropriate for this site, but I think Bean saw what I wrote!


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10370948#post10370948 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Fizi...

Sam only posts here at RC to be a jerk. The guy is either a young child or a sadly misguided adult who finds comfort in trying to belittle others with attempts at witty insults and profound statements. Kind of amusing isn't it :)

[BeanAnimal]

Could we possibly see a photo of the furniture you are trying to match? That would help us send you in the right direction.

[samtheman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10370948#post10370948 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Fizi...

Sam only posts here at RC to be a jerk. The guy is either a young child or a sadly misguided adult who finds comfort in trying to belittle others with attempts at witty insults and profound statements. Kind of amusing isn't it :)

You are amazing! I am either a young child or an adult. How many other choices are there?

[BeanAnimal]

Yet another attempt at a witty insult. Now that's the sam we all love!

Reading comprehension sam... it is a key to understanding.

Lets break it down. You appear to be 1 of 2 things.

1) a child who needs supervision and some maturity.

-or-

2) an obnoxious and insufferable adult.

Other choices sam?

Well mannered child?
Thoughtfull child?
Mature adult?
Pleasant adult?
Well balanced person?
Kind person?
Helpfull person?

Plenty of choices sam, they just don't fit you.

[hemi18]

bean you're just feeding sam's fire....just ignore him and let's talk about smoothing out 4x4's with fitz and rico.... :)

[BeanAnimal]

I kinda like his silly attempts at wit. They serve to make us all feel smarter and more grounded :D

I think if he posts a photo of his furniture it will help us a lot.

As has already been mentioned, treated lumber is out of the question for a piece of finished furnitire. Health nonsense aside, he will not be able to finish it easily.

[coralnut99]

Since he's trying to match furniture I doubt it's PT lumber he's looking at. I've seen lumber-grade 4X4's at HD every so often.

If you look through your phone book, you just might find a local sawmill that will be able to cut, and plane one for you. You'll most likeley end up with very square corners, as opposed to the rounded corners on construction lumber. Rounding those off with sandpaper would be a lot easier than trying to make furniture-grade lumber out of what HD sells.

[BeanAnimal]

yup.. .in this area there are plenty of lumber mills that sell posts and "crib block" to mines. It is all hardwood and not treated (a lot of locust). rough 4x4 and 6x6 are the most common sizes.

[Reeferon]

I have noticed that HD has better lumber than Lowes. I would buy it there and then dand it down with a vibrating sander.
First use 60 grit, then medium grit, then 220 grit. It should come out real smooth with this procedure

[dhogan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10369810#post10369810 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iansfishy
um i think thats a planer. look around -other places will have planed wood
Sorry to get off topic but that isn't a planer. It iis a sander.

As many have mentioned just get a sander, just realize the quality of the wood will depend on your artistic ability.

[stringcheese]

BUY PREMIUM PRESSURE TREATED BEAMS.
YOU MAY HAVE TO SPECIAL ORDER.:mixed:

[jman77]

pick the best non warped beams at the store...then belt sand if you have to .

[Reeferon]

a belt sander will be overkill for this type of project.

get a vibrating sander... you will be able to use it for other stuff also

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10373144#post10373144 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stringcheese
BUY PREMIUM PRESSURE TREATED BEAMS.
YOU MAY HAVE TO SPECIAL ORDER.:mixed:

Pressure treated lumber is not really suitable for indoor use (prohibited by code) and can also be bad for the reef, as well as being hard to finish nicely.

I used PT 4x4s to build the legs of my inwall stand, but they are primed and painted and I could care less about the code.

Trying to build something furniture grade out of them is another story.

[coolfish5]

I built a stand out of cedar, as our local home depot stocked cedar 4x4's and that was the only thing in that size untreated. Just a thought, we used a belt sander to smooth them down and put a light stain and polyurethane on them. Cedar is a darker than pine. But obviously it depends on what you are trying to match.
Just a thought,
John

[coralnut99]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10375670#post10375670 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coolfish5
I built a stand out of cedar, as our local home depot stocked cedar 4x4's and that was the only thing in that size untreated. Just a thought, we used a belt sander to smooth them down and put a light stain and polyurethane on them. Cedar is a darker than pine. But obviously it depends on what you are trying to match.
Just a thought,
John

Cedar 4X4's must look really nice! Some HD stock cedar, but I've only seen 1 X boards.

Just wanted to note that if you use a solvent-based poly or some other solvent based finish, the pine will darken substantially over time. Depending on the species, it will end up being almost as dark as the cedar does initially, without any staining. Unless you use a water-based finish, or use a sealer before applying a solvent-based finish, the darkening process is inevitable.

[slavearm]

You guys are retarded. When you want to straighten wood, you use a planer or jointer. For a 4x4 I would highly advocate using a jointer. You can get a cheapo ryobi at home depot for like 150, and should be just big enough for a 4x4. If you plan on doing woodworking in the future, buy something a little better with at least a 6" cutter and a lot longer bed.

[coralnut99]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10377764#post10377764 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by slavearm
You guys are retarded. When you want to straighten wood, you use a planer or jointer. For a 4x4 I would highly advocate using a jointer. You can get a cheapo ryobi at home depot for like 150, and should be just big enough for a 4x4. If you plan on doing woodworking in the future, buy something a little better with at least a 6" cutter and a lot longer bed.
I'm outta here.

[slavearm]

I was referring to all the bickering going on. Take it as you will.

He did mention the 4x4s were warped, best of luck trying to sand warp out of wood.

[samtheman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10373402#post10373402 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Pressure treated lumber is not really suitable for indoor use (prohibited by code) and can also be bad for the reef, as well as being hard to finish nicely.

I used PT 4x4s to build the legs of my inwall stand, but they are primed and painted and I could care less about the code.

Trying to build something furniture grade out of them is another story.
I would like to hear the other story.

[Lucky Strike]

my vote is for unsupervised child, 13ish.

[RumLad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10456107#post10456107 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lucky Strike
my vote is for unsupervised child, 13ish. My question would be why is his membership allowed to continue on RC? I know of several members who have been "moved on" for much less offending matters.

As for the wood debate, most HD/Lowes sell cedar 4x4's that are relatively smooth as is. If that's not an option then I would go with the planar/joiner brigade, as the finished product will be much better than with a belt sander in an inexperienced woodworkers hands.

My .02