DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Meshmez]

Quick question,

I prefer rockets design in that the 8 supports are positioned so that the front of the stand is 3" more open, but wouldn't putting the supports like this be more structurally sound? Id prefer to do it rockets way (to have more space below), but I have seen a lot of people do it this way instead and it looks like overlapping them like this "connects" everything together more. Again, the downside is the screw strips have to face the other way and the mouth of the stand from the front and back is 3" smaller. Thoughts?

THANKS!

yes that would be more structurally sound. BUT, just make your short top pieces be on the ends of the long pieces and you can put the legs the other way :)

[Saltwatercoral2]

I'm building a stand for my dad's new dart frog aquarium. Ithe tank is 72" long x 24" front to back x 36" high. There may be 4" of water in the bottom and about 8 inches if substrate. What would you recommend to use for building this? I will be enclosing it with plywood. The stand will be the same dimension as the tank but be 40" tall.

Thanks in advanced

[BigJohnny]

yes that would be more structurally sound. BUT, just make your short top pieces be on the ends of the long pieces and you can put the legs the other way :)

Interesting idea! However, I am pretty sure your supposed to have shorter bracketed by longer for added stability.......or I have no idea what I am talking about which is also a possibility.

[Kbel1969]

Big Johnny, either way you do it is fine, as long as you overlap with the legs its basically the same result. The only plus to having the sides shorter between the face boards is that your legs for the front and rear will be wider for a little more support, but you lose just a little width for your opening. It really comes down to your preference. I personally choose the latter for my stand build

[MaccaPopEye]

Sorry if this is already somewhere else in this massive thread but I couldn't find it when searching. I have a couple of issues / questions that I would really appreciate some help with.

My current stand is steel (came second hand with the tank) but was not painted properly and I have noticed a couple of small bits of rust. So i want to build a new stand asap.

Here is the rough sketch up of the stand frame I want to build (using 90mmx45mm pine):
http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag78/MaccaPopEye/stand%201%20side%20W%20sump_zps2ezwjyae.png
http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag78/MaccaPopEye/stand%201%20W%20sump_zpspzbnznix.png

I want to make the new stand longer than the tank so that i can also fit in the chiller and a sectioned off electrical compartment.

This has me a bit confused with where to put the supports for the left hand side of the tank. The DT footprint is 48x20 and the new sump footprint is 48x14. Because the new sump is the same length as the DT I wouldn't be able to use 2 planks perpendicular to each other on each left hand corner as in the recommended design.

Is 1 support either side here OK? Or if I did 2 or 3 supports side by side would that support the weight (bulky but I would be ok with it). If this is OK then could I also only use 1 support on each far left corner near the chiller or does it still need the right angle supports?

I also wanted to skin the stand with removable panels but it seems like a plywood skin secured to the stand might be required?

Cheers,

Macca

[Meshmez]

Sorry if this is already somewhere else in this massive thread but I couldn't find it when searching. I have a couple of issues / questions that I would really appreciate some help with.

My current stand is steel (came second hand with the tank) but was not painted properly and I have noticed a couple of small bits of rust. So i want to build a new stand asap.

Here is the rough sketch up of the stand frame I want to build (using 90mmx45mm pine):
http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag78/MaccaPopEye/stand%201%20side%20W%20sump_zps2ezwjyae.png
http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag78/MaccaPopEye/stand%201%20W%20sump_zpspzbnznix.png

I want to make the new stand longer than the tank so that i can also fit in the chiller and a sectioned off electrical compartment.

This has me a bit confused with where to put the supports for the left hand side of the tank. The DT footprint is 48x20 and the new sump footprint is 48x14. Because the new sump is the same length as the DT I wouldn't be able to use 2 planks perpendicular to each other on each left hand corner as in the recommended design.

Is 1 support either side here OK? Or if I did 2 or 3 supports side by side would that support the weight (bulky but I would be ok with it). If this is OK then could I also only use 1 support on each far left corner near the chiller or does it still need the right angle supports?

I also wanted to skin the stand with removable panels but it seems like a plywood skin secured to the stand might be required?

Cheers,

Macca

lets start with the easy stuff first. The single support on the chiller end should be fine, there should be very little weight supported there. it would still be good to have the support bridge the joint between the 2 frame boards though.

It is highly recommended you attach plywood. you may be able to get away with attaching it to the back and then one of the sides, leaving the front and the other side removable.

Now about the perpendicular boards on the left end of the tank. assuming the sump is exactly 14", you could build the stand to be 21" or 21.5" deep instead of 20", then position the perpendicular boards so that one edge is even with the outside of the stand. then put the parallel board (the ones already in your drawing) to the right of those. this closes off your front opening a bit (1.5"), but you should have just enough space for the sump to fit in between.

EDIT: looking at your drawing again, you should actually orient the boards on the right side this way too, so that you bridge the gap between the boards in the frame. this would close your front opening 3" total.

[kendrid]

I am doing an inwall build in an existing non-load bearing wall (6' 125 gallon) where I want the tank flush with the drywall. Can the existing wall studs be used with a 2x4 across the top of the studs and the stand pushed up against the wall. Here is an example I found online:
http://i.imgur.com/dsDe9obl.png

That seems possibly not safe since it is recommended to use a 2x8 for the long beams, but that is the recommendation because there are no vertical support studs in the middle. The wall has vertical studs for support.

The other option would be to cut down the studs 7.25" below the drywall hole and rest the top front of the stand on the studs and attach them. That would be a bit more difficult to cut without ripping out the drywall below the viewing hole.

Thoughts?

[Meshmez]

ok the part facing upward here is the back of my stand, would it make sense to attach the 2 pieces of plywood as shown in the second pic? or leave it open? the sides will have plywood, and the front will have one piece of plywood, but cut out for the openings.
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg520/meshmez/Reef%20Tank/20160625_163421.jpghttp://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg520/meshmez/Reef%20Tank/20160625_163457.jpg

[BrettDS]

I am doing an inwall build in an existing non-load bearing wall (6' 125 gallon) where I want the tank flush with the drywall.


When I did my in wall tank I simply built this stand without modification and removed the studs and toe plate entirely, then I attached the drywall to the stand. I considered adding a few 2x4's in the stand for additional places to attach the drywall, but didn't. It doesn't seem to be a problem. The drywall still seems solid enough.

There are some pictures in my build thread here:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ereefcentral%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D2563684&share_tid=2563684&share_fid=1489&share_type=t

[kendrid]

When I did my in wall tank I simply built this stand without modification and removed the studs and toe plate entirely, then I attached the drywall to the stand. I considered adding a few 2x4's in the stand for additional places to attach the drywall, but didn't. It doesn't seem to be a problem. The drywall still seems solid enough.

There are some pictures in my build thread here:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ereefcentral%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D2563684&share_tid=2563684&share_fid=1489&share_type=t

That is a great idea, and in my case the side where the tank is sitting is unfinished basement so the studs are already visible. Did you use a reciprocating saw to cut the studs? What did you do to remove the drywall screws from the studs without hurting the drywall?

[BrettDS]

That is a great idea, and in my case the side where the tank is sitting is unfinished basement so the studs are already visible. Did you use a reciprocating saw to cut the studs? What did you do to remove the drywall screws from the studs without hurting the drywall?



Yes, I used a reciprocating saw to cut 95% of the way through the studs... Just had to go slow and be very careful not to accidentally go through the drywall. Then I used a hand saw for the last little bit. Once the studs were cut I just carefully pulled them out pulling the screws through the back of the drywall. I wound up with one or two screw holes on the finished side that needed to be patched, but not many. I also made some additional screw holes on the finished side when I screwed the drywall to the stand, so I just patched them all at the same time. Patching screw holes like that is quick and easy.

[kendrid]

Yes, I used a reciprocating saw to cut 95% of the way through the studs... Just had to go slow and be very careful not to accidentally go through the drywall. Then I used a hand saw for the last little bit. Once the studs were cut I just carefully pulled them out pulling the screws through the back of the drywall. I wound up with one or two screw holes on the finished side that needed to be patched, but not many. I also made some additional screw holes on the finished side when I screwed the drywall to the stand, so I just patched them all at the same time. Patching screw holes like that is quick and easy.

Thank you for the detailed reply. I am leaning toward doing it this way now. This seems more straightforward than building the stand into the existing studs. Since I have easy access to the studs I can cut them out one day, build the stand another, get the tank setup and plumbed, then when ready cut the hole in the drywall, slide the tank into place, frame, done (if only it were that simple).

I am doing this project without my kids knowing. Two weeks from today they are leaving on a one week trip and when they get back I want the fish moved from their old home into the in-wall. Doing it the way you did I can do all of the steps except cutting the drywall before they leave. Two weeks from today I could cut the hole, move the tank, fill it and start moving rock. I could spend that week cleaning up the the wiring, finishing the unfinished side so it looks nice, etc.

[BrettDS]

Sounds like a plan, although cutting out the hole in the drywall might be a pain with the tank already in place... And once you plumb the tank it will probably be difficult to remove. In my case I set up the tank and stand and plumbed the tank elsewhere in the room, then I prepped the wall and cut the hole and then moved the plumbed tank and stand into position.

[kendrid]

Sounds like a plan, although cutting out the hole in the drywall might be a pain with the tank already in place... And once you plumb the tank it will probably be difficult to remove. In my case I set up the tank and stand and plumbed the tank elsewhere in the room, then I prepped the wall and cut the hole and then moved the plumbed tank and stand into position.
That is exactly what I am going to do. I will test the tank in my workshop area then take it apart and move it after cutting the drywall.

Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk

[codytrandall]

Hey everyone, thanks so much for this thread, this is my first attempt at woodworking.

I followed the directions except there is a small gap from the red/yellow and the purple on a couple of the sides. I've attached a link to some pictures. Should I redrill?

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOtyPHaU1Ui2uQ68Xm7bl14wLOlxMEXenvirrsXXwxxB31VFE2UJF541ta6wOGJmQ?key=c0J1Wl85Q0VCd3B1R0N3U0F6d kp1ZkpQMm5FSW9R

[Hitmanx]

I think I F'ed up here on my design...

This is for a 48x30x12 shallow tank with bottom trim...

I designed and built my stand last year but haven't used it yet, then I found this design and I fear mine just won't work... I would appreciate opinions or suggestions please:

Please disregard the flat 2x4s on the ground... Didn't end up using those... The front 2x4 is doubled up to account for no center brace, but I haven't added vertical supports for that piece yet...

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7728/27389119793_8cbe1b42af_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HJhp6k)

[rickztahone]

I think I F'ed up here on my design...

This is for a 48x30x12 shallow tank with bottom trim...

I designed and built my stand last year but haven't used it yet, then I found this design and I fear mine just won't work... I would appreciate opinions or suggestions please:

Please disregard the flat 2x4s on the ground... Didn't end up using those... The front 2x4 is doubled up to account for no center brace, but I haven't added vertical supports for that piece yet...

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7728/27389119793_8cbe1b42af_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HJhp6k)
What do you feel is wrong with the design?

[Meshmez]

I think I F'ed up here on my design...

This is for a 48x30x12 shallow tank with bottom trim...

I designed and built my stand last year but haven't used it yet, then I found this design and I fear mine just won't work... I would appreciate opinions or suggestions please:

Please disregard the flat 2x4s on the ground... Didn't end up using those... The front 2x4 is doubled up to account for no center brace, but I haven't added vertical supports for that piece yet...

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7728/27389119793_8cbe1b42af_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HJhp6k)

put the legs on top of the bottom frame (same as if you were to flip it over and lay it on the top frame.)

also i would change the orientation of the legs so the seam doesnt match up with frame. like this:

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg520/meshmez/Reef%20Tank/corner.jpg

[jharding08]

I'm sorry if this is redundant in this thread and I missed the original post.

I am looking for plans for a stand to hold a 48"x48"x24" glass cube tank with a center overflow (11"x8"). Looking for the stand to be 32" tall.

Can I use 2x6s without a center brace? Would like 2 doors on three sides (tank will be against a wall. Also, behind one of the back doors, away from the sump, I was thinking of boxing it off and making an isolated electrical box for my Apex and all the power blocks.

I need to skin it and add molding so it looks nice, but that is secondary to strength and building it right. I was also thinking of making the doors recessed into the plywood for a seamless look. I also have young boys, so the less they can get into the better

Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you

[EagleI]

I am looking for plans for a stand to hold a 48"x48"x24" glass cube tank with a center overflow (11"x8"). Looking for the stand to be 32" tall.



Can I use 2x6s without a center brace? Would like 2 doors on three sides (tank will be against a wall. Also, behind one of the back doors, away from the sump, I was thinking of boxing it off and making an isolated electrical box for my Apex and all the power blocks.





Yes since your longest span is only 48" you can keep the center open on all sides if you use 2x6.

[jharding08]

Yes since your longest span is only 48" you can keep the center open on all sides if you use 2x6.

How would I do the cross braces for the top and bottom sections? Is something like this overkill for the top?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8621/15997966042_4bc50b0b26_c.jpg

I need a base for my sump underneath too, so how much bracing would I need for the bottom box

[jharding08]

How would I do the cross braces for the top and bottom sections? Is something like this overkill for the top?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8621/15997966042_4bc50b0b26_c.jpg

I need a base for my sump underneath too, so how much bracing would I need for the bottom box

Here is what I have right now:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e23/jharding08/240CubeStand_zpswwbynzab.png

Definitely needs more support. Should I double up the 2x6 on the top around the outer frame as well?

The tank is 48.5" to the outside of the black frame on the bottom. So it will be sitting on the outside of the 2x6s. Should I make the square 49x49 instead to have it sit in the middle? I am going to add some molding to cover the black frame later

[Meshmez]

jharding08, are you going to put plywood across the top? or have the tank frame rest on the 2x6? I normally oversize by 1" so that the tank sits 1/2" from the edge of the 2x6 on all sides.

[jharding08]

jharding08, are you going to put plywood across the top? or have the tank frame rest on the 2x6? I normally oversize by 1" so that the tank sits 1/2" from the edge of the 2x6 on all sides.

I am thinking I am going to lay 3/4" plywood across the top, but still oversize by .5"-1" larger than the tank width so it wont be right at the end.

Even with plywood, wont I need cross braces on the top and bottom parts?

[EagleI]

I am thinking I am going to lay 3/4" plywood across the top, but still oversize by .5"-1" larger than the tank width so it wont be right at the end.



Even with plywood, wont I need cross braces on the top and bottom parts?



If it were me I'd do cross beams on both the top and bottom frame, plus 3/4 ply on top. It prevents skewing or twisting. Also, if you're not putting doors on all four sides you could add a center stud on the faces that won't be accessed but I don't know it to be necessary.

[BigJohnny]

Quick question,

I know that if the top supports have crowns, you are suppose to face the crown up so that the weight of the tank flattens it out, what about the bottom supports? If they have crowns should they be facing down so that the weight of the tank flattens them out too, or up like the top supports?

Thanks!

[EagleI]

Quick question,

I know that if the top supports have crowns, you are suppose to face the crown up so that the weight of the tank flattens it out, what about the bottom supports? If they have crowns should they be facing down so that the weight of the tank flattens them out too, or up like the top supports?

Thanks!


This may help you:

Ideally, the goal is to ensure that the curvature or crowns of every piece of lumber face the same direction. When framing floors, all joist crowns should face up. This way, after the subfloor and flooring is installed, the weight of furniture and occupants will tend to flatten out the slight hump created by the arching joists, correcting the crown. If you install the joists with crowns facing downward, the floor will inevitably sag.

[jharding08]

If it were me I'd do cross beams on both the top and bottom frame, plus 3/4 ply on top. It prevents skewing or twisting. Also, if you're not putting doors on all four sides you could add a center stud on the faces that won't be accessed but I don't know it to be necessary.

Would this be overkill for the cross braces on the top, with 3/4" plywood on top of that?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8621/15997966042_4bc50b0b26_c.jpg

[Meshmez]

Would this be overkill for the cross braces on the top, with 3/4" plywood on top of that?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8621/15997966042_4bc50b0b26_c.jpg

yes, that is overkill. I would actually suggest using 2x4s for the cross supports instead of 2x6 and offsetting them from the top surface. that way you have fewer interfaces with the plywood to be sure they are flat. Since your tank has a rim, the forces will be along the outside, so there will be nothing to push down on the plywood in the center. Your cross pieces would be just to help keep the frame square.

I would suggest using full sides of plywood on as many sides as you can (3/4" is overkill on the sides)

[BigJohnny]

This may help you:

Thanks. It does and it doesn't, framing of a floor is only 1 horizontal plane with weight spread out on top and would equate to the top of the stand, but the bottom of the stand is different in that the weight comes in through the vertical supports on the corners only. The concept of the crown facing up on the top frame of the stand so that the weight flattens it out makes sense and is what led me to believe that it should be reversed on the bottom because the weight will be through the support legs on the corners (high parts if you flipped the crown so that it was facing down) and would push down those high parts (against the solid floor) to straighten out the bottom crown. Does that make sense?

I feel like there is no way the weight of the vertical supports (only pushing on the outside ends) would straighten a crown if the outside edges are already the lowest part (crown facing up like the top frame of the stand).

For example-

Top of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank evenly distributed through the top of the frame would push down the center to flatten the crown

Bottom of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank goes through only the vertical supports on the ends, to the lowest parts of the crown which are already as low as they can be, which would leave the crown higher in the center.

I was thinking this would be better for the bottom:

Crown facing down, the weight of the tank goes through the vertical supports on the outside ends, to the highest parts of the crown which pushes them down to flatten the crown (the center of the crown is already at its lowest point)


Does that make sense? Having said that, i think it would be difficult to build a flat square stand, and level it without the weight already flattening down the bottom crown. The reason i thought of this is because i framed my stand with all crowns up (minimal) and there is a small gap between the floor and the center of the bottom frame. I dont see how that would flatten out unless i had additional weight from a big sump or something in the middle of the bottom frame. I do plan on having a 40b sump (probably equivalent to half full) which would likely help. I just want to make sure I am doing this right.

[BigJohnny]

Thanks. It does and it doesn't, framing of a floor is only 1 horizontal plane with weight spread out on top and would equate to the top of the stand, but the bottom of the stand is different in that the weight comes in through the vertical supports on the corners only. The concept of the crown facing up on the top frame of the stand so that the weight flattens it out makes sense and is what led me to believe that it should be reversed on the bottom because the weight will be through the support legs on the corners (high parts if you flipped the crown so that it was facing down) and would push down those high parts (against the solid floor) to straighten out the bottom crown. Does that make sense?

I feel like there is no way the weight of the vertical supports (only pushing on the outside ends) would straighten a crown if the outside edges are already the lowest part (crown facing up like the top frame of the stand).

For example-

Top of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank evenly distributed through the top of the frame would push down the center to flatten the crown

Bottom of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank goes through only the vertical supports on the ends, to the lowest parts of the crown which are already as low as they can be, which would leave the crown higher in the center.

I was thinking this would be better for the bottom:

Crown facing down, the weight of the tank goes through the vertical supports on the outside ends, to the highest parts of the crown which pushes them down to flatten the crown (the center of the crown is already at its lowest point)


Does that make sense? Having said that, i think it would be difficult to build a flat square stand, and level it without the weight already flattening down the bottom crown. The reason i thought of this is because i framed my stand with all crowns up (minimal) and there is a small gap between the floor and the center of the bottom frame. I dont see how that would flatten out unless i had additional weight from a big sump or something in the middle of the bottom frame. I do plan on having a 40b sump (probably equivalent to half full) which would likely help. I just want to make sure I am doing this right.

Or, I have no idea what I am talking about.....

[Kbel1969]

I have built my stand(s) with crowns all facing up, that is actually the proper way to do it. Even if there is no load, over time, if it does decide to sag, be it gravity, humidity, whatever, it's good practice to have them facing up.

[GraviT]

I'm sure this has been asked at least a dozen times, but I've been reading this thread for days and am still not sure.

I have a custom 150 gallon (72.5x18.5x29.5) built with 3/4" glass. I've followed the original design and used 2x6 for the top frame and 2x4 for everything else.

The plan right now is to setup the tank on the frame and skin maybe a month down the road (we have a lot of work being done in our home as the result of hail damage and my 120 has to be torn down by Thursday with the 150 going up 2 weeks later) and I want to confirm that this stand configuration should work without center bracing in the interim. (Note, there will be 3 verticals on the front to support doors and hinges, but I hadn't planned on them doing much to support the tank.

Thanks in advance!

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/kev2lz/image_zpslemoqvui.jpeg

[simko]

Hi Everyone

Started reading the second part of this thread... I am about to start measuring and planning a new stand to hold my 5' 115 gallon tank and want to make room for a sump underneath. Have there any big changes in stand designing since page 1 of this second part? I have been skimming through this but havent gone too in depth, just wondering if i will be OK following the template from page 1 (of the second part). I was planning on making top and bottom frames from 2x6, then skinning the whole stand with some kind of thin veneer

[Reefer2727]

Hi All, I used these great plans to build a 75 gallon stand a few years ago. i am now upgrading to a 180 in wall. Just wondering if I should put plywood on the top of my stand on top of the 2x8 rails. I have been reading for hours and cant find the info I need. Does anyone recommend putting plywood under the glass tank? If so, would 3/4" be sufficient?

[joshmikow]

I'm building a steel stand for a 185g (60Lx24Wx30H). Is 2"x2" square tubing sufficient or should I go with 2"x3" rectangle tubing for the top and legs? Any design tips that differ from wood stands?

Also, what is the best way to cover the base of the stand where the equipment sits inside? Wood doesn't seem right since I'm building a steel stand. Is 1/8" steel plate sufficient? Do I need cross supports from front to back on the bottom rectangle? If not, can I put the bottom shelf on the underside of the stand and use those 2" for equipment?

I'd also like to add a drawer or two for food and tools but am not sure how to design those into the stand properly.

I'm planning to have it powder coated to help prevent it from rusting over time.

Thanks!

[BrettDS]

I'm building a steel stand


This thread is really for the discussion of wood stands in general and ones derived from rocket engineer’s template in particular. You’ll probably have better luck starting a new thread to discuss your steel stand ideas.

[BigJohnny]

OK quick question. I'm pretty sure this hasn't been discussed previously, but if it was I apologize because I could not find it. Is there need for some sort of additional bracing when you increase the height of the vertical supports by a certain point? The reason I ask is because I'm building a stand for my 90 which is 40" tall. I haven't finished skinning in plywood yet (only top no bottom shelf or sides/front/back), but the frame is a little flexy. Like if I take the top I can flex it a very small amount by shaking/attempting to rotate the top.

Will finishing skinning the stand in plywood eliminate this or do I need to add some additional bracing? I've built smaller stands like this before and never noticed this issue. It's square and level and all joints were clamped and screwed with #10 x 2 1/2 screws. All 2x4s except top frame which is 2x6 with a center 2x6 brace.

Here is where I am at so far:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/cc157ef4aa840cec991eef2737a38fc3.jpg

Top and bottom shelf will be 3/4" birch ply with 1/2" birch ply sides/front/back.

Thoughts? Thanks!!!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[twistedfinn967]

Height question: Following Rocket's design, is there any structural reason to limit height? I'm wanting to go about 36" finished height for a standard 120 gallon tank (4x2x2).

I'm thinking that it should still be stable but want to make sure, and attaching it to the wall is not an option.

[Rhodophyta]

Quick question,

I prefer rockets design in that the 8 supports are positioned so that the front of the stand is 3" more open, but wouldn't putting the supports like this be more structurally sound? Id prefer to do it rockets way (to have more space below), but I have seen a lot of people do it this way instead and it looks like overlapping them like this "connects" everything together more. Again, the downside is the screw strips have to face the other way and the mouth of the stand from the front and back is 3" smaller. Thoughts?

THANKS!
I would say the difference is marginal. You are making the span of the laterals three inches shorter, which is not much. Wood door and window lintels are usually only supported by one short stud the inch and a half way. Sometimes architectural plans call for that to be doubled or doubled and turned adding another inch and a half or two inches of support. I think that may have more to do with door hinges on tall heavy doors and security deadbolts than with structure, but I never asked.

[zachtos]

My 300G deep dimension marineland tank (used), 6'L 3'W 2'T , I used 2x8 for the top pieces and 3/4" plywood. 2x4 braces at 2' and 4' of the 6' span in center. Only have center 2x4 brace to floor on front/sides, back is open for access purposes. Does this build look sufficient for the weight? (will use a wavemaker tunze)
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q151/zachtos/300G%20build/IMG_20160626_235056395%201_zpse5unbxos.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/zachtos/media/300G%20build/IMG_20160626_235056395%201_zpse5unbxos.jpg.html)

Underneath very open
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q151/zachtos/300G%20build/IMG_20160629_193401943_zpsacue4r6b.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/zachtos/media/300G%20build/IMG_20160629_193401943_zpsacue4r6b.jpg.html)

painted underneath,
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q151/zachtos/300G%20build/IMG_20160724_131256674_zpsva5blcwj.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/zachtos/media/300G%20build/IMG_20160724_131256674_zpsva5blcwj.jpg.html)

black 3mil plastic is on top instead of paint.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q151/zachtos/300G%20build/IMG_20160627_180105391_zpstfkhxo5n.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/zachtos/media/300G%20build/IMG_20160627_180105391_zpstfkhxo5n.jpg.html)

Here are some other stands I built, but only 1 follows the template. They are less critical as they only house QT/Frag/water change stations.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q151/zachtos/300G%20build/IMG_20160729_015026932_zpsvpuktmsq.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/zachtos/media/300G%20build/IMG_20160729_015026932_zpsvpuktmsq.jpg.html)

[Timmy03]

Has anyone come across a stand build for a 155 bowfront?

[ealzaln]

I used Pine on my tank..Works just fine..Alot of those factory built ones are made from Pine anywayhttp://onlinemarketingou.com/apple/images/5.gifhttp://onlinemarketingou.com/apple/images/2.gif
http://onlinemarketingou.com/apple/images/1.gif

[JaySchulz]

Hey RocketEngineer hopefully you can help me with a quick question I have about tank stand. You helped me on some previous deminsions but I've since changed them.

Tank will be 72"L x 72"W x 27"T
Stand height will be 42" Tall with canopy that will go to the ceiling.

I'm planing on giving my carpenter your design with top box being 2x8's or 2x10's headers and also having the header be two boards together on all sides for added strenght. Also plan on having cross beams.

Bottom box will be 2x6's with 2x4 cross beams

Vertical corners will be 2x8's

Lastly I plan on having one vertical center support dead center on all 4 sides. All 4 center supports will be 2x8's

Will this be sufficient for a 600 gallon tank. Thanks in advance.

[abIngenui]

So I am building a stand for a 24 gallon aquapod. I built the stand as in the original template by using all 2x4s. I am having a problem, despite cutting all legs exactly the same length, where one leg board is just a hair too short. I think it is because the bottom edge of the box frame is slightly uneven between the boards. Thus, I fear that some weight will be applied to the screws as shear. Will this be okay? I am thinking I can just add more screws to distribute whatever shear there is across more screws. Should I scrap it? Redo the box frames? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[bvaughn7]

You should purchase the tank before building the stand for this exact reason. There are several different types of "reef ready" tanks with different hole locations.



The plywood top isn't required but most folks include it.



For a 84" x 24" tank you are going to need a center brace unless you use a 2X10 which is overly large IMO. If you have further questions, post them here as this is one of the best ways to reach me. Its one way to get to that 10 posts fairly quickly.

Hey Rocket - I just want to take a minute to really acknowledge you for sharing this information, and everyone else who has added to these threads. I want you to get how many people are impacted and helped by this. People chiming in, people just reading it. It gives people a sense of possibility that they can do it, and we take the chance too try and take our ability further. So you are creating possibilities by sharing this and I want to thank you for that, for your time, for all of it. Rocket=possibility maker.

[Rhodophyta]

I have built my stand(s) with crowns all facing up, that is actually the proper way to do it. Even if there is no load, over time, if it does decide to sag, be it gravity, humidity, whatever, it's good practice to have them facing up.
Crowns facing up is right. Even, if possible, the crowns of the wood grain should be up too. If there are center posts or an attached skin, the flattening of the top shelf will be transferred to the bottom.

[Mishri]

working on a 96"x24" 300 gallon tank.. The stand that came with it is 10 3"x6" posts that are 36" long, topped with 1/2" plywood, and then holding it together were 2x6s on the outside edge at the top, and on the inside on the bottom, screwed into the posts. and then placed ontop of that was an oversized piece of wood that resembles a counter top. (It sticks out about 6" in all directions from the tank/stand)

The 2x6s are cracked and water damaged, I need to replace them. I think the 3x6s were overkill for the weight load, but I think the way the 2x6s were screwed to them didn't lend a lot of side to side support.

I'd like to re-use the 3x6s since I have it.. Trying to figure out how.. I think I'd remove at least 2, possibly 4 of the 3x6s, just having a tough time figuring out how i'd tie them all together. I was going to cut down the 3x6s, as 36" is pretty tall for a stand with a 30" tall tank... but If I want to put 2x6s or 2x8s around the outside edge at the top, and bracing in the between each leg in each direction then that cuts down the space to get into my sump, which is 18" tall..

Any thoughts? Am I better off just using 2x4s similar to how zachtos?

[SNTLewis]

Marineland 200DD footprint is 48x36 and 200 gallons...

Pursuing through the info it looks like:

1) should use 2x8 for top because of gallons
2) could use 2x4 for top because of span

so if I use a single 2x4 back/front vertical in the middle would put me safely in the 2x4 top rail calculations. Right?

The 200dd stand is one-piece to go through doors but is very short for viewing and sump underneath.

[Crete]

I've been running a 55 gallon long for a year now that I pieced together from a freshwater tank that I had and a lot of inferior equipment and technologies (I had yet to discover Reef Central at the time and got advice from less than knowledgeable sources.) I have added so many different filtration systems and pumps that my tank and stand looks like a laboratory.

About a month ago one of my hang on the back refuguims that feed down to the sump lost suction while me and the wife were cleaning the tank and spilled 5-10 gallons of saltwater on our wood floor. This is the 3rd time this has happened along with a lot of other random salt water spays and spills. There is currently no way to isolate spills or clean under our tank as it is.

So, after this latest spill I have been tasked by the wife to do a complete redesign and rebuild of every aspect of our system with the following requirements.

1. First and foremost to minimize or negate chances of saltwater making it to the wood floor. Save for a major catastrophic event, i.e. tank breaking.

2. Create one single sump/refugium/filter area that is easily serviceable.

3. Increase the total volume of water in the tank and sump area.

4. Move and/or replace RO/DI and automatic water change system to interior garage wall that backs up to fish tank location. (No more buckets inside house.)

5. Install aquarium contollers to automate as much as possible and allow remote monitoring.

6. Be slightly modular as our current house is small and we will be moving once our son graduates in three years.

We are not by any means rich but we do have some disposable income so some of the items I've selected and designed are kind of expensive and maybe overkill. Savings advice is appreciated but I'm not outright looking to cut corners at the expense of the final product.

I am only posting this in this thread right now to get advice on the stand I've designed to make sure it will hold what I want it to. As not to clutter up this already massive thread I will make a separate thread in the tank build section when I get closer to having everything ready.

My original design was to make the stand out of square stock stainless tubing and have a 6" clearance under the stand for cleaning up spills. However, when I picked and calculated the weight of the new tank it became clear that I wouldn't be able to put the weight on feet because the point loading would be too great for the floor.

I knew I needed to have the tank I wanted on hand before I got serious about stand design and construction so I've already bought it. The tank that I've selected and is already sitting in my garage is a Marineland 36x36x17 cube it holds 150 gallons. I've found that this is an odd shape to find stand plans or DIYs for.

I did find one other stand for a 30x30x24 that was my inspiration for this stand. http://www.3reef.com/threads/rambos-reef-135g-cube-build.146764/

The wet weight is 150x8.55=1,282.5+238(tank)=1,520.5lbs.

I have designed the stand using SketchUp Make and I will share the model files if anyone is interested.

I will start with the base.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain%20Stand%20Only_zpsnsm2pmdl.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain%20Stand%20Only_zpsnsm2pmdl.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled Plain Stand Only_zpsnsm2pmdl.png"/></a>

The base is approximately 50x50 square and 36" high. All boards are 2x6(1 1/2x5 1/4) and interloaced so that screws or nails only touch two boards at a time. Not shown is the plywood floor because I had to remove it to take a photo of the top interlocks(shown later). All of the doors on my house are only 3-0 and as I said before we will be moving in 3 years so fully assembley this will not fit through or our of a door, hince the need for modularity. Two to four of the top cross boards will have to be either screwed or lag bolted into place after moving the base into the house.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain%20Top%20Only_zpsfixgzlia.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain%20Top%20Only_zpsfixgzlia.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled Plain Top Only_zpsfixgzlia.png"/></a>

This is the stand top unfinished. The center 36" square is 1x1 to make a spot for the tank to lock into, the actual size of this will have to be adjusted for the tanks bottom frames.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain%20Top%20Only%20Showing%20Interlocks_zpsfwqhgalp.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain%20Top%20Only%20Showing%20Interlocks_zpsfwqhgalp.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled Plain Top Only Showing Interlocks_zpsfwqhgalp.png"/></a>

Stand top unfinished showing bottom interlocks to prevent top from sliding on base.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Interlocks%20In%20Blue_zpsusiznfce.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Interlocks%20In%20Blue_zpsusiznfce.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Interlocks In Blue_zpsusiznfce.png"/></a>

View into bottom of stand showing top interlocks set in place highlighted in blue.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain_zps3wyse7yz.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20Plain_zps3wyse7yz.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled Plain_zps3wyse7yz.png"/></a>

Unfinished stand with top.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20Stand%20Only%20Painted_zpsjviro45e.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20Stand%20Only%20Painted_zpsjviro45e.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled Stand Only Painted_zpsjviro45e.png"/></a>

Finished and painted stand base. The black material that you see in the bottom is a spray on shower pan liner that my company uses in commercial construction, it will effectively make all of the wood in the bottom six inches of the stand waterproof and provide and area for spills to happen without worry. The rest of the stand is painted white right now because I'd like to light up the refugium more during service. I have LED strips that will come on only when the doors are open and I hoped the white will reflect them. I am, however, concerned that it will also reflect refuguim grow lights into the adjoining chambers and facilitate algae growth in unwanted areas. If any one has experience with this I'd love your input.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20Top%20Only%20Painted%20and%20Tiled_zpsimnyrxci.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20Top%20Only%20Painted%20and%20Tiled_zpsimnyrxci.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled Top Only Painted and Tiled_zpsimnyrxci.png"/></a>

Top finished and tiled. The center will be the leveling pad. Again the bottom of it is painted gloss white to reflect light in the sump area.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/Side%20Panel_zpsin2uwbqm.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/Side%20Panel_zpsin2uwbqm.png" border="0" alt=" photo Side Panel_zpsin2uwbqm.png"/></a>

These area panels to cover the sides. They will be attached with counter sunk magnets to the metal plates that I've modeled. 1/4" felt strip will be placed around the perimeter to block light from leaking out of the refugium at night. This model is currently sized for my original 42x42 stand that I had to scrap due to sump not fitting. I will remodel it soon. The inside face of these would also be gloss white to reflect light to the refugium.

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20With%20Tank%20and%20Refugium_zps9bdjonx1.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20With%20Tank%20and%20Refugium_zps9bdjonx1.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled With Tank and Refugium_zps9bdjonx1.png"/></a>

<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/BizarAdventure/media/50x50%20Assembled%20With%20Tank%20and%20Refugium%202_zpsu7fygizd.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag155/BizarAdventure/50x50%20Assembled%20With%20Tank%20and%20Refugium%202_zpsu7fygizd.png" border="0" alt=" photo 50x50 Assembled With Tank and Refugium 2_zpsu7fygizd.png"/></a>

These two views are the stand assembled minus the side panels showing the tank placements and two different sumps.

The first refugium is 45x15x17 if it runs 8" deep it will increase the total water volume by 45x15x8=5,400/231=23.4 Gallons. This refugium is custom made but its sitting available at my LFS right now.

The second refugium is 30x30x17 if it runs 8" deep it will increase the total water volume by 30x30x8=7,200/231=31.2 Gallons. This refugium is custom made and would take 1-3 months to get depending on the fabricator's load.

So I guess for the purposes of this post I am looking for input on:

1. Will it hold the weight. I am 95% sure it will but it never hurts to double check.

2. If I make two of the top boards removable for transport and installation by using lag bolts when I reassemble them in the house will that effect the load it can handle to the point that it would eventually fail? Maybe it would be best to just leave the two boards out while fabricating it and permanently screw them in once I get it into the house. It would have to be unscrewed when we move though.

3. Will using gloss white interior paint cause refugium algae to spread out of it's compartment?

4. Any other advice or comments that would prevent headaches down the line. I am a measure three times before I cut type of guy so anything I can fix before putting blade to wood would be awesome. Hell, I've made so many changes and revisions of this already in ScketchUp that I would have built this six times since my pen and paper drawing.

[Elricsfate]

I have built a stand to support my 180g tank (72x24x24). I included a vertical center support. However, I am finding that fitting the sump in the stand is a challenge.

I used 2x6 throughout. Do you think I could get away with removing the center posts (or at least the front center post) in order to open up the space? The last thing I want to do is fill this thing up and have it collapse under the weight.

Thanks in advance.

[BrettDS]

Did you build the stand according the the template in this thread? If not then people would need to know how your stand has been built to offer any ideas about whether the center post could be removed.

[Elricsfate]

I built it according to a video by "The King of DIY" on Youtube.

Basically, the top and bottom are connected by a 2x6 "guide", and there are 2 2x6's on each corner running between the top and bottom frame to support the weight. Currently there is also a 2x6 weight bearing vertical post in the center, front and back. I'd like to remove the front post so I can access the sump more easily.

It occurs to me that I could run one additional support on each of the two front corners, and run and additional 2x6 across the front (basically making the front edge double thick) to support the weight across the span.

[Elricsfate]

https://www.dropbox.com/personal/Camera%20Uploads/Fish%20Tank?preview=20161121_205436.jpg

[Elricsfate]

Sorry, it appears the image won't load.

[Elricsfate]

Tried uploading an image as an attachment. I apologize if I'm screwing this up. Relatively new to these forums.

[choss]

I'm in the process of upgrading my tank from this 40 cube to an approximately 88 gallon tank measuring 42X24X22. I would like to use the stand I build for the 40 in this picture:

<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/choerenz/media/Tank%20Build/Stand%20construction/P4260246_zpsxohagrqe.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w11/choerenz/Tank%20Build/Stand%20construction/P4260246_zpsxohagrqe.jpg" border="0" alt="Finished stand with dry tank photo P4260246_zpsxohagrqe.jpg"/></a>

The base is made from 7" gator piping which is extremely thick and sturdy. The table top is 1.5" thick walnut (two pieces glued together with double rows of biscuits).

You can see from the picture that the old tank, which measured 24" long, by 20 deep, sits nicely above the legs. No issues, no concerns. The legs are about 6" from the lengthwise edges of the table top (and 1.5" in from the front edge). The new tank is a reefsavvy PVC bottom tank which will sit on a layer of rubber.

So the question I have is two fold: first, is there any issue with the weight of the new tank being supported by 4 legs that do not transfer the weight across a frame to the floor - rather 4points? Second, I can order longer pipes to extend the lengthwise pipes to approximate the 42" length of the tank (rather than the 36" length of the current setup) - is this worth it or overkill? The pipes are expensive so if I can avoid it I would.

[GQsmooth]

I have built a stand to support my 180g tank (72x24x24). I included a vertical center support. However, I am finding that fitting the sump in the stand is a challenge.

I used 2x6 throughout. Do you think I could get away with removing the center posts (or at least the front center post) in order to open up the space? The last thing I want to do is fill this thing up and have it collapse under the weight.

Thanks in advance.

You don't need a center brace if you used 2x6's. I built the same dimensional stand as you out of 2x4's, but I kept the center brace for that reason.

[Zacktosterone]

this is a little bit different from the original template. will this still hold a 60x24x18" tank with no center brace?

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/butacska/aquariumstand100.jpg (http://s112.photobucket.com/user/butacska/media/aquariumstand100.jpg.html)

[awais98]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/6bc12714affa463aac588f6c4e4bc616.jpg

So I'm building a stand for a 96x24x24
My question: can I replace the front end purples from 2x4s to 2x2s? Doing so will help tremendously with European hinges and flush doors.
Yes I am using 2x8x96 for the top reds and will also have a center front and back vertical support too .
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mishri]

my tank is an extra 60 gallons, 96x30x24 and I was considering going up to 2x6s on the red and yellow, and adding additional green in the middle, in addition to what you have added in there.

is 2x8 necessary? i saw someone earlier went with 2x6 for a 300 gallon tank, with 2x4s for the purples.


I just don't see 2x2's having the necessary strength, 2x4s are already only rated at 371-571lbs capacity depending on type and grade... when you use 2-2x4s the capacity goes up nearly 500%

[C Dog]

What kind of glue is everyone using? Liquid nails??

[GQsmooth]

What kind of glue is everyone using? Liquid nails??

No glue, just screws...

[MicroMan419]

my tank is an extra 60 gallons, 96x30x24 and I was considering going up to 2x6s on the red and yellow, and adding additional green in the middle, in addition to what you have added in there.

is 2x8 necessary? i saw someone earlier went with 2x6 for a 300 gallon tank, with 2x4s for the purples.


I just don't see 2x2's having the necessary strength, 2x4s are already only rated at 371-571lbs capacity depending on type and grade... when you use 2-2x4s the capacity goes up nearly 500%



Have the same size tank and built the stand with 2x6. I doubled the 96 inch long span (top and bottom) to help eliminate any twisting and put in the blue cross braces under each of the 3 braces of the tank. Also used multiple cross braces on the base to support the 72 inch refugium sump. Even more overkill, I added 2x6 vertical braces every 10 inch span but left an opening in the front for 2good size cabinet doors. Like I said it's overkill, but for a little more work to add the extra pieces I'm not worried and will sleep sound not wondering about the stand not holding up to the weight of the tank.

[davocean]

What kind of glue is everyone using? Liquid nails??

Any wood glue is much better than liquid nails, liquid nails does not penetrate and bond like wood glue does.
I like to use Tightbond III as it is water resistant.

[Desert Sea]

What kind of glue is everyone using? Liquid nails??

Any wood glue is much better than liquid nails, liquid nails does not penetrate and bond like wood glue does.
I like to use Tightbond III as it is water resistant.

Glue is only as good as the joint is that it is applied to. Joints need to fit well and not have any excess play. End grain does not provide a good surface for gluing as its too absorbent and will draw the glue into the pores before it gets a chance to create a bond.

For cabinet and finish grade work the Titebond III or Gorilla glue are good choices. For bonding dimensional lumber and plywood, which can be difficult to create tight fitting joints, PL 400 or Liquid Nails construction adhesive will work well as it has some gap filling qualities to it. The construction adhesive and carpenters glues if used correctly with good joinery, will be stronger then the wood itself.

[davocean]

I've been a carpenter for over 30 years now, and I'm a general contractor as well.
I can agree that a properly glued joint is indeed stronger than nails and you will tear the wood before breaking a properly glued joint, but I can't tell you how many times I've pulled apart boards where someone used liquid nails, and it comes apart at the joint every time, in fact you could scrape the boards of the liquid nails and reuse them even, and that's because the liquid nails does not penetrate, so it is nowhere near as strong as wood glue.

[Desert Sea]

I've been a carpenter for over 30 years now, and I'm a general contractor as well.
I can agree that a properly glued joint is indeed stronger than nails and you will tear the wood before breaking a properly glued joint, but I can't tell you how many times I've pulled apart boards where someone used liquid nails, and it comes apart at the joint every time, in fact you could scrape the boards of the liquid nails and reuse them even, and that's because the liquid nails does not penetrate, so it is nowhere near as strong as wood glue.

Sounds like you and I have similar backgrounds. :wavehand: I also have been doing carpentry for over 30 years and am a construction manager for large commercial projects.

I too have pulled apart joints adhered with construction adhesive. But the failure wasn't the adhesives fault. It usually is attributed to the adhesive being applied to a frozen or wet surface or the surface prep recommendations not being followed or adhesive that is past its prime. These adhesives are solvent based and an unopened tube will lose its solvent over time right through the card board cartridge. I'm also sure that at some point you've come across something put together with construction adhesive, pick your own flavor, and found that no matter what you do or how hard you try, that joint is not coming apart. The wood will fail first.

For construction adhesive I prefer PL over LN but they do have their place and when used properly is equivalent to "welding" the wood together.

[davocean]

Well, I can tell you this, I know of some very high end cabinet shops that use glue only for their cabinets, no nails or screws, and they do not use any type of liquid nails or construction adhesive.
Most of us in the trade see the use of liquid nails or similar as a plan B when they could not figure out how to join properly because something blocked that from being able to happen.
Many of us see it as a sign of hack work to be perfectly honest.

[Desert Sea]

I think you are misunderstanding my earlier post. Yes, I agree 100%. Anybody using construction adhesive for finished cabinet work is a shoe maker and should consider another line of work.

The suggestion for the use of construction adhesive was geared toward those who are building a stand frame out of dimensional lumber and will end up wrapping it with some other decorative material so that the glue joints aren't visible in the finished product.

Construction adhesive is beneficial to those who may not have the tools or experience to create perfect joints and there is a little bit of gap that needs to be dealt with. In this situation, the construction adhesive is more forgiving then the carpenters glue and they are able to get a sound bond despite a not so perfect fit.

Even with dimensional lumber, if a tight fitting joint can be made, carpenters wood glue would be the first choice especially the urethane based glues which have a high tack.

[JonezNReef]

Any tips on making a stand for a 180g 2'x2'x6' that I can fit another 180g 2'x2'x6' tank under. I have a 7'x3' space to work with and want the top of the stand at 40". The top 180 will be a in wall DT while the other will be hidden behind the wall. Any thoughts or suggestions?

[choss]

Any wood glue is much better than liquid nails, liquid nails does not penetrate and bond like wood glue does.
I like to use Tightbond III as it is water resistant.

+1 on tightbond III. I use it when I glue together wood for tabletops and other surfaces that carry a lot of weight and it is incredibly strong and easy to work with.

[Annap729]

If I were going to build a 48x24 stand, 36" high for a 105 gallon, skin the face sides and rear with 2 6" strips of 3/4 plywood glued and screwed on each corner mirroring the 2x4 upright studs (but no center brace) , could I do 2x4's at the top instead of 2x6?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[bigdave438]

rocketengineer.. need advice please..
i am building a glass aquarium measurements are
72"L x 31"w x 30"H the glass thickness will be 1/2" for the front back and sides, the bottom glass will be 3/4" thick non tempered and 1/2" thick euro bracing on top.
i would like your professional advice as to the stand build please with no center brace and 36" tall...i will also be skinning the stand with 3/4" birch plywood all 4 sides...thank you in advance..:rollface:

[JonezNReef]

Standard Size tanks:

Less then 55g:
Should you wish to use smaller materials such as 1X4s the main thing to remember is that a 1X4 is half as strong as a 2X4. For a 55g, I would recommend a 2X4 frame but for the smaller sizes 1X4 is plenty strong enough.

Up to 90g:
For a tank with a 48" X 18" footprint and less then 90g, a standard 2X4 is capable of handling the span without issue.

120g/150g: For a tank with a 48" X 24" footprint, I would recommend a 2X6 top frame.

125g-240g: For tanks 72" long, I recommend a 2X8 top frame to span the full width of the tank without a center leg.

If you are dealing with a larger tank, review this thread for similar setups and if you can't find any let me know and I will run the numbers for you.

[bigdave438]

JonezNReef thank you,,i read that from the first page but i wanted to make sure before i got started...i am almost done with the complete remodeling of my basement just for this tank build...thanks again

[JonezNReef]

No problem I am making a stand for my 180 and didn't want to use a center support either and plan on using a 2x8

[bigdave438]

No problem I am making a stand for my 180 and didn't want to use a center support either and plan on using a 2x8

i also plan on building a 125 gallon sump 5' long to place inside the stand, center support would have been in the way. i am so eager to get started...lol...but the basement work gotta get done first and it feels like an eternity :headwally:

[JonezNReef]

Yea I am super eager to get mine going. Mine is a little more challenging because I am going to have a 6' 180g tank with another 6' 180g tank below it. I am really hoping the stand will work out the way I hope. I'm not too worried because the old set up was a 180 on a 2x4 stand and it did fine. Of course that stand had center support too but worst case I can always get the lower tank in place and put a center support in if I feel it's necessary.
Also I have decided to go with 2x6 instead since I had about 15 12ft 2x6s given to me. I also plan on using truss hangers for extra support.

[bigdave438]

Yea I am super eager to get mine going. Mine is a little more challenging because I am going to have a 6' 180g tank with another 6' 180g tank below it. I am really hoping the stand will work out the way I hope. I'm not too worried because the old set up was a 180 on a 2x4 stand and it did fine. Of course that stand had center support too but worst case I can always get the lower tank in place and put a center support in if I feel it's necessary.
Also I have decided to go with 2x6 instead since I had about 15 12ft 2x6s given to me. I also plan on using truss hangers for extra support.

wow sounds very nice and looking forward to seeing the finish product...good luck..

[JonezNReef]

So far I have framed the wall for the tank and got it installed. I was also able to assemble the top of the stand and test fit it. Once I got it in place and seen it fit I got it leveled and measured for the legs since each leg will be a different length since it's going in the old garage converted to master bedroom which has a pitched floor.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/9ccb2df717913188d624388af7b39779.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/c6a1b9e7987ef1b3e8c585152fe2bdf0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/527d81b064639429b0e152c20557354e.jpg

[bigdave438]

nice...looks like alot of work in progress. are you building your own 180's ?

i am still in the building phase of my basement. it already was finished but had 1970's wood paneling. i gutted the entire basement and now i just finish studding the walls and cemented and waterproofed my foundation walls (Dryloc)..next up is to insulate, Sheetrock paint and moldings,electric and recessed light just been finished by electricians. then epoxy the cement floors the high gloss color the wife wants... then build her bar and banquette seating...once i am done with that list i can start the fun stuff my tank build..lol

[JonezNReef]

No the 180s are both stock Perfecto 6'x2'x2' tanks....nothing special. I just finished doing the electrical and drywall on the wall those tanks will be on. Now I need to tape and mud the wall and also paint the wall and stand before I install everything.
Here is my build thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2611735

[bigdave438]

No the 180s are both stock Perfecto 6'x2'x2' tanks....nothing special. I just finished doing the electrical and drywall on the wall those tanks will be on. Now I need to tape and mud the wall and also paint the wall and stand before I install everything.
Here is my build thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2611735

i am going to follow your build thread...thanks...i am thinking of starting a build thread once i finish the basement...the tank will be 6'x30"x30" with a sump 5'x24"x24" providing i get the space under my stand to fit the sump. size..

[Thornbreaker]

I'm doing an in-wall soon. My wife and I are building a house, so I intend to have the builders go ahead and construct the stand.

Going for a 5'x2'x2' glass with a 30-35 gal sump. (Probably SCA)
Will want the base of the tank at 40 to 42" from the floor.

Anyway, I know little about wood working. Can anyone help on what I need to provide my builders with so they'll have accurate info?

I want the tank to sit in the wall similar to what JoneZ is showing with the front pane sitting flush with the opening. I'm just not sure how to incorporate the open stand design Rocket is showing, and relay correct information. Are 2'x4' studs in the wall still fine so long as the rails on the stand are 2'x6' for a 5'x2' tank?

Also, what plywood thickness is recommended (or is it necessary?)

Thank y'all for your help. Any other tips would be appreciated too, since I have the opportunity to put what I want in.

[nogascans]

Has anyone come across a stand build for a 155 bowfront?

Following. Need to build a replacement for my 90 corner bow front. Factory stand needs replacing and no room for much storage or possible sump.

My thoughts were to utilize a standard rectangular design with the 3/4" top deck sitting with the bow as an over hang. Skin it with front door/doors.

Sincerely,

David

[wesamazmy]

My 120g stand, still not fully completed

https://youtu.be/l0cN3fqwg94

[Saltine]

Base stand for my 180, haven't added trim or anything yet. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/0305c263dda40ddbf5a232866ffd20d5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/9596b5b4d0ba6ce054345df1d38e5cba.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JonezNReef]

Very nice Saltine!!! That thing looks solid

[notenoughtanks]

Made this for my 40 breeder with Rocket's design and skinned it with poplar/etc and painted with Rustoleum Top Coat. Matching doors on both sides. It's 36x24x36 so allows for upgrade to a 65 or 90.

367206

[blazie151]

I was wondering if you could calculate the weight capacity of a stand for me. Top would be sandwiched 1x4s with a channel in each to make rabbit ears for the 1x4 legs to go in, down to the bottom which would be made nearly identical to the top. All wood would be premium pine (which is why I'm doing 1x4 instead of 2x4, the good pine and oak aren't made in 2x4s). Anyway, the design would be quite similar to this one (http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Better-Than-New-Aquarium-Stand/?ALLSTEPS). The plan is 48.5x18.5x32 for a 90 gallon glass aquarium and 40 gallon sump, no center legs. Display weight will be 160 for the tank, 90 in substrate, 60 in rocks and decorations, and 750 in water weight. Sump will be an additional 60, plus 40 in substrate and media, 330 in water, and 30 in rocks and decorations. So the stand needs to support about 1100lbs on the top, and 500 pounds inside on a 3/4in plywood bottom. I made a 30 gallon stand using your template and now want to make something a little more ornate for the living room display.

[stelliofleondis]

This is the stand I built using re design 48x18x41tall367919

[riksworld]

Hi all,

I would just like to double my stand with you all before I decided to built it as I am unsure to use either 2x6 or 2x8.

The tank will measure L 60 x W 30 x H 24, total volume would be 187.01G.

Should I be using the 2x6 or 2x8?

Red - Upper Rails: 2x6 or 2x8

Purple - Uprights: 2x6 or 2x8


Many thanks to all who reply's.

[JonezNReef]

If you don't want a middle leg in the front go with 2x8 and if your putting a leg in the front middle then 2x6

[RocketEngineer]

Hi all,

I would just like to double my stand with you all before I decided to built it as I am unsure to use either 2x6 or 2x8.

The tank will measure L 60 x W 30 x H 24, total volume would be 187.01G.

Should I be using the 2x6 or 2x8?

Red - Upper Rails: 2x6 or 2x8

Purple - Uprights: 2x6 or 2x8


Many thanks to all who reply's.

2X6 Top rails.

Everything else 2X4. Going bigger just wastes space and money.

[Salty150]

What about a 210 gallon 72" x 24" x 30"...?

:confused:

[RocketEngineer]

I was wondering if you could calculate the weight capacity of a stand for me. Top would be sandwiched 1x4s with a channel in each to make rabbit ears for the 1x4 legs to go in, down to the bottom which would be made nearly identical to the top. All wood would be premium pine (which is why I'm doing 1x4 instead of 2x4, the good pine and oak aren't made in 2x4s). Anyway, the design would be quite similar to this one (http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Better-Than-New-Aquarium-Stand/?ALLSTEPS). The plan is 48.5x18.5x32 for a 90 gallon glass aquarium and 40 gallon sump, no center legs. Display weight will be 160 for the tank, 90 in substrate, 60 in rocks and decorations, and 750 in water weight. Sump will be an additional 60, plus 40 in substrate and media, 330 in water, and 30 in rocks and decorations. So the stand needs to support about 1100lbs on the top, and 500 pounds inside on a 3/4in plywood bottom. I made a 30 gallon stand using your template and now want to make something a little more ornate for the living room display.

Your weight calculations are off because you don't account for the water displaced by the sand and rocks. "Decorations" are for freshwater tanks :crazy1:. I use 10 pounds per gallon for the weight of the display and everything in it.

Based on a 1X4 which is actually 0.75" X 3.5" you are iffy for a 90g display. I would recommend you do what I did for my stand and build the frame out of 5/4 X 4 (yup, an actual lumber size). This is slightly thicker at a true 1" board width. I wouldn't do "rabbit ears" but instead recommend you use pocket screws to join the pieces together. This will ensure the weight of the display goes straight to the floor. The sump can be supported by a couple stringers hidden under the plywood.

[RocketEngineer]

What about a 210 gallon 72" x 24" x 30"...?

:confused:

2X8 top with 2X4 for the rest, same as the original post states. :beer:

[BrettDS]

What about a 210 gallon 72" x 24" x 30"...?



:confused:


I used 2x8's for the top frame and 2x4's for everything else on the stand I built for my 220 (with the same dimensions as your 210). It has no center legs and has been holding the tank for just under a year at this point.

[blazie151]

Your weight calculations are off because you don't account for the water displaced by the sand and rocks. "Decorations" are for freshwater tanks :crazy1:. I use 10 pounds per gallon for the weight of the display and everything in it.

Based on a 1X4 which is actually 0.75" X 3.5" you are iffy for a 90g display. I would recommend you do what I did for my stand and build the frame out of 5/4 X 4 (yup, an actual lumber size). This is slightly thicker at a true 1" board width. I wouldn't do "rabbit ears" but instead recommend you use pocket screws to join the pieces together. This will ensure the weight of the display goes straight to the floor. The sump can be supported by a couple stringers hidden under the plywood.

Ok, that should work. My local Lowe's doesn't have 5/4x4 but the local lumber yard might. I was going to double up the 1x4s on the top and bottom (effectively gluing and biscuit joining the 1x4s to make 2x4s) and cut a channel in them similar to rabbit ears so I could hide the cut marks on the legs and skin panels since I'm building with a circular instead of a miter saw. The channels would be for aesthetics not supports, only about 1/4 inch deep, and I was also planning on gluing everything with titebond 3 and using pocket screws for the legs. If I'm joining 1x4s on the top and bottom to make 2x4s should I still bump up to potentially much more expensive 5/4x4s?

[blazie151]

Also, you're right about my initial assumptions of weight, I didn't calculate the offset but guessed instead, but I was really close. The 90g tank empty is 160lbs. 90g holds 12 cubic feet. 2 bags of sand will be 1 cubic foot for a 2" sand bed and weigh 100lbs, 1 cubic foot of limestone will be 150lbs, the remaining 10 cubic feet of water at 62.43lbs per cubic foot will be another 624lbs of water. Any other decorations will be lightweight and offset the water weight just about equally. That puts me at 1034lbs before the sump, which should be roughly 1/2 the weight of the display. The large amount of limestone and the use of the word "decorations" is because this is for a freshwater cichlid tank. A great stand template is great regardless of its use! Your work is much appreciated!

[Grimreaperz]

Hey @rocketengineer
I am about to build a custom 6'2" stand for a wall in my house...for now it will have a 4ft 75g and a 2ft 20g Display Fuge beside it

Eventually maybe I would like to be able to put a 6ft tank there but that's going to take convincing the wife over many years lol...

Here is my very rough stand design.....I was wondering the following...

1. would I need a support beam for a stand that long?
2. Do I need to use all 2x6 ?

Any info you could give me to aid in my success would be greatly appreciated!!!


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/638d09674c54cfba7b2ffb1e11e0a7e2.jpg

36g BF DT/29g DIY Sump/Fuge

[blazie151]

Hey @rocketengineer
I am about to build a custom 6'2" stand for a wall in my house...for now it will have a 4ft 75g and a 2ft 20g Display Fuge beside it

Eventually maybe I would like to be able to put a 6ft tank there but that's going to take convincing the wife over many years lol...

Here is my very rough stand design.....I was wondering the following...

1. would I need a support beam for a stand that long?
2. Do I need to use all 2x6 ?

Any info you could give me to aid in my success would be greatly appreciated!!!


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/638d09674c54cfba7b2ffb1e11e0a7e2.jpg

36g BF DT/29g DIY Sump/Fuge

For a 6" span with a center leg use 2x6, without a center center leg use 2x8. He goes over that in post #3 I believe. Personally, if I was you, I would do a 6' 1/2" stand and skin the top to handle a 125 or 150 with or without a plastic trim since you want to upgrade to larger tank later (might as well keep your tank options open). Also, if you need more room now, you could add extra bracing to support different tank size andskin the top with 3/4" or 1" plywood, and add 1" of overhang.

[Philly777]

Quick question regarding exact dimensions... I've read through 30 or so pages and couldn't find the answer. I'm building a stand for a 120 gal RR. Most refer to the footprint as being 48" x 24". If you look at the specs from marineland, it's actually 48-3/8 x 24-3/8. Are you guys building the frames to exactly this dimension or adding an inch so the plastic frame centers on the 2x4?

So basically... What length and width should I use when planning the build out for a 120 RR?

[RocketEngineer]

Quick question regarding exact dimensions... I've read through 30 or so pages and couldn't find the answer. I'm building a stand for a 120 gal RR. Most refer to the footprint as being 48" x 24". If you look at the specs from marineland, it's actually 48-3/8 x 24-3/8. Are you guys building the frames to exactly this dimension or adding an inch so the plastic frame centers on the 2x4?

So basically... What length and width should I use when planning the build out for a 120 RR?

I recommend adding that extra inch so the plastic sits near the center of the boards. Given that framing lumber has a rounded edge, this extra inch also ensures the tank sits on the flat part of the board, not on that rounded corner section.

[JZinCO]

I'm looking for validation.
I framed out a stand yesterday (for the most part).
It generally follows this idea (credit to Shawn O):
http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv113/JohnDoe_69/Fish%20tank%20stuff/55StandTemplate1.jpg

The issue is my sump has the same footprint as my DT. The sump is 100% supported, using the yellow of the bottom box. The DT will sit forward on the top of the frame (sitting on the long red, short yellows and long blue). So, only the back end is not directly supported.
To make up for this, the blue is doubled up and reinforced to the short yellows with joist hangers. Then I have blocking to minimize sag. Last I will top with 3/4 ply.

The other difference from the original rocket design is the screw straps (green) are placed on the outer of the frame. In the picture, they aren't cut down so as to reduce shear on the screws, but I will make that change.

FYI the tank dimensions are 48"x13". The stand is 48"x18"x36". The lumber is 1x4 (actual 0.75x3.5). The DT is 50 gal.

Attached are photos; in the first photo, the box looks askew but it is square (must be the photo angle). My question is, what do you all think? It seems super sturdy but I have only tested 200lb on it. I believe I followed recommendations for an oversize stand (supported joist, blocking, thick ply top). There is no facny joinery in the stand.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=11360&pictureid=77429
http://reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=11360&pictureid=77428

[Brockly]

I am rebuilding my 75 gallon stand. The tank is glass with black edging strap and standard size 48 wide etc

I want to build the stand 60 wide so I can have a shelf area on one side of the tank. If I build the top square out of 2x6 instead could I do that withought modifying the design? Meaning the tank would sit flush left front and back to the top fram but the right side wouldn't have support under it other then the long edge 2x6. If that diesnt work what is the mod. Ad another top cross brace under right edge at 48 inches then add a virticke leg enter that brace in front and back? Or could I just do back?

Thanks

[Brockly]

And for the record I build my first stand off this thread back in 2005 or whenever it started I can't even remember. So... crazy it's still going. Literally one if not thee best forum post if all time rocketengineer. I'm so thankful you still show up to answer questions

[Brockly]

Shoot another quick question something I've always wondered if you look at the original diagram by rocket it shows the corner L leg braces with seams lined up from the long side and short side. Many other diagrams (like the one 2 posts up) show that L seam crossing over the bottom square seamed more of a cross hatch. Hard to describe but if you look st the row pictures the difference is obvious. DOES THIS MATTER AT ALL. I've always wondered about that?

[JZinCO]

I am rebuilding my 75 gallon stand. The tank is glass with black edging strap and standard size 48 wide etc

I want to build the stand 60 wide so I can have a shelf area on one side of the tank. If I build the top square out of 2x6 instead could I do that withought modifying the design? Meaning the tank would sit flush left front and back to the top fram but the right side wouldn't have support under it other then the long edge 2x6. If that diesnt work what is the mod. Ad another top cross brace under right edge at 48 inches then add a virticke leg enter that brace in front and back? Or could I just do back?

Thanks

Maybe I am misunderstanding but why would you need to extend from 48" to 60"?
It sounds like you have (at least) 2 options. If you want just a ledge/shelf, then build Rocket's box 48" long, but top it with a 60" top. Or, build rocket's box 48" long and then extend by adding a cabinet (separate or joined to the 48" box). You could just use plywood and furring or some other light duty material to frame out the cabinet.

Basically, I didn't read a reason in your post to have the tank 'float' on any side (unlike mine). Check this out: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2326476
If you want a shelving unit, build a 48" long stand,
If I were you, and I just wanted a shelf, I would build the standard tank design 48" wide. If you want just a shelf, put some sort of top onto the

edit: Do a search for peninsula builds, I'd bet you can find some designs you can modify.

[JZinCO]

Shoot another quick question something I've always wondered if you look at the original diagram by rocket it shows the corner L leg braces with seams lined up from the long side and short side. Many other diagrams (like the one 2 posts up) show that L seam crossing over the bottom square seamed more of a cross hatch. Hard to describe but if you look st the row pictures the difference is obvious. DOES THIS MATTER AT ALL. I've always wondered about that?

I may be corrected by someone else but, I considered this as well and this is how I see it.
Rocket's was simpler because you could build each side separately and then fasten them together. Also it gives the short sides 3" more contact (using 2x4s) with the uprights. I'm not sure if that matters. I'd rather give the short sides 3" less contact in exchange for 3" more contacts for the long sides (given the potential for deflection as span increases).

In my case, with the sump being the same footprint as the DT, if I had oriented those uprights the way rocket had them, I would have had to make the stand 1.5" deeper with 1x4's (3" with 2x4s) in order to fit the sump as the sump length=the stand length. That would have meant (in my design) the blocking between the outer frame and the joist would have had to been made longer (thus decreasing the stiffness of that joist).

[JZinCO]

I'm looking for validation.
I framed out a stand yesterday (for the most part).

......



Bump. Unless someone sees something egregious, I'm going to roll with my stand.
Please, if there's a safety or stability aspect I missed, let me know.

[Brockly]

The reason for the extension was to allow for more mechanical room down in the sump area. If I had to add the vertical bracing it would. Be fine just a bit in the way so I dealing I wouldn't add any legs at the 48 inch area

[JZinCO]

Well if you really want to build a frame longer than 48, I suggest the tips I picked up and am using: 1) extend in 1 direction if possible so that only one side is floating on a joist, 2) use a thicker top (e.g. 3/4 ply) to spread the load, 3) support the joist with hangers to reduce shear stress on the fasteners, 4) use blocking or bridging and/or double up the joist to reduce sag on the joist.

I have no background in construction though, so take my advice lightly.

[Fat_cat]

Hi Rocket Engineer,

I am so happy to have found this thread! I was asking questions on another forum site about a diy stand I bought second hand and was informed it was a "rocket engineer" design. There were a lot of differing opinions on whether I could use this stand with the tank that was sold with it, so I am glad I can ask the engineer himself.

The issue is that the tank is smaller than the stand, so the only part of the perimeter of the tank that sits on the reinforced edges of the stand is the back edge. This is a 57 gallon tank (36x18x21") and the stand is 43x26".

I am attaching pics of the stand. Can you tell me if it can structurally support this tank?
369508
369506
369507
Sorry they are all sideways, that is annoying...

Thank you so much!!

[JZinCO]

Bump. Unless someone sees something egregious, I'm going to roll with my stand.
Please, if there's a safety or stability aspect I missed, let me know.

Ignore this. I ended up getting a 125 gal tank that came with a stand with 3/4 ply construction. It's a beast of a stand so I will take my old stand and make it a heavy-duty workshop bench.

[JZinCO]

Hi Rocket Engineer,
....
Rocket can answer themself but I can tell you that if you are concerned, follow the pointers I laid out in my above posts regarding techniques to deal with oversized stands. Course you could always cut it down to size :)

[Wasano11]

@Rocketengineer I'm in need of a little guidance. I really appreciate the plethora of posts and replies you have given throughout the years! Thank you! I recently purchased a rather large 60"L x 18"W x 48"H tank alone is about 500-600 pound. I would like to span the front opening, about 5 feet or so, are 2x6s enough to support this or should I go it 2x8s? Thanks again for the feedback and knowledge (:

[RocketEngineer]

@Rocketengineer I'm in need of a little guidance. I really appreciate the plethora of posts and replies you have given throughout the years! Thank you! I recently purchased a rather large 60"L x 18"W x 48"H tank alone is about 500-600 pound. I would like to span the front opening, about 5 feet or so, are 2x6s enough to support this or should I go it 2x8s? Thanks again for the feedback and knowledge (:

First, let me warn you that a tank with those dimensions is going to be very difficult to do anything with. The 48" height but only 18" width is very limiting. My 125g is 18" wide and I wish it was wider. At 48" tall, you will need to get into the tank to reach the bottom. Not something I would recommend.

With that said, you will need a 2X8 to span the 60" width given that tank size.

[Wasano11]

Thank you very much for the reply (: yes I agree it is very difficult to maintain a tank with these dimensions and I am making it a discus aquarium no reef but yes it sucks getting stuff in and out of. I am very much addicted to the odd ball aquariums and I have yet to see another tank like this one. I was leaning toward the 2x8 thank you for confirming my hunch!!!

[frogspawn74]

Hope I don't have to redo my stand.

This is for a 225 gallon tank.
Dims are 72 x 36 x 20 tall.
I built the stand out of 2x6's (Didn't think 2x8 were necessary only 20" tall tank)
I do not want a center support in the front.

Should I just glue and screw another 2x6 in the front?
I was also planning to notch the joists to sit flush and support the 3/4 ply top.

[RocketEngineer]

Hope I don't have to redo my stand.

This is for a 225 gallon tank.
Dims are 72 x 36 x 20 tall.
I built the stand out of 2x6's (Didn't think 2x8 were necessary only 20" tall tank)
I do not want a center support in the front.

Should I just glue and screw another 2x6 in the front?
I was also planning to notch the joists to sit flush and support the 3/4 ply top.

At ~224G that's 1125 pounds on each 2X6. With a 65" free span (72-3.5-3.5=65) that 2X6 will deflect ~.20". You really need more support. Doubling up the 2X6 is a valid way to do that. I would put the plywood on top myself but thats JMO.

Sorry for the bad news. Good luck.

[frogspawn74]

Thank you vary much for the input Rocket!
I was planning on adding the 3/4 in ply to the top screwed and glued.
Would 3 joined(front(prefer only 2))
one long (center) and one long(back with 2 more vertical support)
And 2 short joists added be more than enough? 24" apart

Sry for not knowing the proper terms

[RocketEngineer]

Thank you vary much for the input Rocket!
I was planning on adding the 3/4 in ply to the top screwed and glued.
Would 3 joined(front(prefer only 2))
one long (center) and one long(back with 2 more vertical support)
And 2 short joists added be more than enough? 24" apart

Sry for not knowing the proper terms

Lets not worry about proper terms and just go with the diagram :hammer::D

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm289/RocketEngineer/StandTemplate.jpg

You need to double up the red pieces. The ones you have aren't as strong as they need to be but if you double them up so there are (2) 2X6s instead of one, that is enough to keep deflections in the acceptable range.

Does that make sense?

[frogspawn74]

[QUOTE=RocketEngineer;
You need to double up the red pieces. The ones you have aren't as strong as they need to be but if you double them up so there are (2) 2X6s instead of one, that is enough to keep deflections in the acceptable range.

Does that make sense?[/QUOTE]

Makes perfect sense. The front red one will get doubled up. The back Is going to have 2 more vertical supports added. Along with another (red) support down the center. And the top blue support will move over and add another cross support 24" on center.

This is an Acrylic tank btw

Thank you so much,
Was a little nervous without that center leg in the front. I cant stand having that leg there when serving time comes. always a pain to work around.

[BigJohnny]

How perfectly square does a diy aquarium stand need to be using this format? I built mine and the top is level all around, but I'm wondering how much of an error is required for the tank to fail. When putting it together I had to make some adjustments (sanding etc) to put everything together properly. I think this was mainly due to the wood (as straight as I could find) since all of my framing pieces were cut to identical lengths. I assume that is common that a little elbow grease/adjustment is required since no one has perfectly planed 2x4s? Unless you get them planed or plane them yourself that is. I'm nervous about setting my tank up! :(

I'm not worried about the stand failing, just the tank. Also is it normal for the stand to creak randomly after set up as it settles in? I put the empty tank and canopy on top and heard a creak or two one day or another after it had been sitting there for a week or so.

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[Bpb]

How perfectly square does a diy aquarium stand need to be using this format? I built mine and the top is level all around, but I'm wondering how much of an error is required for the tank to fail. When putting it together I had to make some adjustments (sanding etc) to put everything together properly. I think this was mainly due to the wood (as straight as I could find) since all of my framing pieces were cut to identical lengths. I assume that is common that a little elbow grease/adjustment is required since no one has perfectly planed 2x4s? Unless you get them planed or plane them yourself that is. I'm nervous about setting my tank up! :(

I'm not worried about the stand failing, just the tank. Also is it normal for the stand to creak randomly after set up as it settles in? I put the empty tank and canopy on top and heard a creak or two one day or another after it had been sitting there for a week or so.

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for my 75 gallon fresh tank, DIY stand, I DID perfectly square the 2x4's with a surface planer, took forever, but the stand is PERFECTLY square as a result and id feel comfortable parking my truck on top of it honestly. My 90 gallon reef tank sits on a manufacturer matched plywood stand with no framing supports, but they do give lifetime warranties with those stands so I sleep well at night using it. In the future if I build another stand for another tank I'll absolute be using a surface planer for the frame again. I don't own one but I will ask a friend who does. The cost of failure from warped or crooked legs is WAY too high considering the amount of time it takes just to square them up

[BigJohnny]

for my 75 gallon fresh tank, DIY stand, I DID perfectly square the 2x4's with a surface planer, took forever, but the stand is PERFECTLY square as a result and id feel comfortable parking my truck on top of it honestly. My 90 gallon reef tank sits on a manufacturer matched plywood stand with no framing supports, but they do give lifetime warranties with those stands so I sleep well at night using it. In the future if I build another stand for another tank I'll absolute be using a surface planer for the frame again. I don't own one but I will ask a friend who does. The cost of failure from warped or crooked legs is WAY too high considering the amount of time it takes just to square them up

This didn't address my concern but thanks for sharing. I'm jealous of the comfort you have! The majority of people do not plane their wood however, so I'm hoping to hear from any of those people on whether or not they had similar experiences to me as far as needing to fine tune to make everything fit.

I was also hoping to hear how far off things need to be in general to cause an issue with a standard tank rimmed aquarium, and how I could maybe check that beforehand.

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[SNTLewis]

The time is come for me to move my 200DD (mixed joy).

The tank is 48"wide x 36"deep X 27" tall.

I was thinking that since tank is 48" (or less) then 2x4 upper rail would be ok. BUT since I want to span the front/back opening, go with 2x6.

Uprights/legs would be 2x4 (maybe 2x6).

Rocket and other please comment!

[FoothillCorals]

Question for RocketEngineer

I am finally getting around to building a stand. The tank is 60x34x21 tall and is Acrylic. The longest span between the (red) uprights will be 25" Will 2x4s be enough with a center brace? Can you tell me what the deflection would be? I also plan on putting (blue) cross pieces every 10" to keep it from sagging in the middle since it is an acrylic tank. Thanks in advance.

[neilp2006]

Awesome thread, and great plans.

I have s quick question-

My tank is a 72lx18wx22h, 125 gallon. Am I right in thinking I could do a 2x4 span fir that length if I supported it 36 inches from one end? So it would have a maximum unsupported span of 36 inches?

My sump is a 40b, 36 inches long, and I was going to put a center support right at 38 inches so I could slide it straight in on the right side. Far left side will be a boxed off 22 inch cabinet for electronics and a pull out 10gallon ato res. That gives me around 12 inches of space between the cabinet wall and the brace to put reactors etc .

Thanks for any insight.


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[neilp2006]

Quick question regarding the lower frame rails (orange and blue)-

Any issues with building that so that the 3.5 inch face is flat to the ground, and the 1.5 inch profile becomes the height? Because of total height constraints - wife really needs it to match height of built ins on adjacent wall so it matches - the extra 2 inches gained actually make the difference fir getting my skimmer in the 40b sump.

Since the purpose of these rails is to spread the weight on the ends of the legs across a larger surface area, wouldn't doing it this way make it easier on my hardwood floor as a bonus?

Thanks for any insight


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[Hentz]

So tried to be as square as possible... The bottom frame is really quite square, however the tip isn't... I put on a pice of plywood on top that perfectly fits my tank at 46"x24". In the picture I had the plywood sit completely flush in the front but this is what happens towards the back. Almost as if the top frame is skewed to the left... It feels insanely solid and doesn't seem to wobble or anything when I shake it from left to right. however I'd like your professional opinions before I go any farther.. Adding Plywood to the sides is also off, but I'm thinking I might add it to the slight crook it will have to be added and them shimmy heavily under neath..

I tried removing the top frame to see if I can fix it or even just rebuild, but it won't come off easy and will likely require a completely new frame.

http://i.imgur.com/vNRMfyQ.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/VHjQJZi.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/Foi0YlL.jpg?1

[PaPa_Johnny]

If you measure corner to corner and compare the lengths you will probably find that the stand is not square. Unless you willing to sister the outside of one side of the stand you are going to wind up with unsupported glass sitting on just the plywood lip if I'm seeing things correctly. Now, I'm not a carpentry expert, nor an engineer, but that is a recipe for disaster in my opinion. I hate to say it but it looks like a rebuild is in store.

[Grimreaperz]

Okay I'm back after much more research and planning.

I want to build a new stand.

It will be 6' 2" long
40" high
23" wide.

Start will be just supporting a 75g + 20g tall display fuge

I may upgrade to a 150+ in the future.

So from my understanding after reading this thread multiple times here's what I'll want to do please correct me if I am wrong.

3/4plywood top is just a given.
2x6 for top frame, support beam, And cross supports.
2x4 for bottom frame.

I want to add internal shelving can someone point me to a stand build where that was done? Just for ideas?

If the floor isn't completely level how do you rectify that?

Pre treated wood or is untreated pine fine? (Lol poet and I didn't even know it :p)

TIA for answering my noob questions!


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[asonitez]

Hello Rocket!
First off thank you SO FREAKING MUCH for posting the plans for building a tank stand. You will literally be saving me hundreds of dollars. For your help with my questions I would be willing to compensate/tip you for your help.


Here is my Build Thread

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627948&page=2

On that last page you can see the trouble that I ran into with the builder of my stand and basically how I ended up in this awful situation.


On to the help I need.

My tank as it stands is 60" Long 30" Wide and 24" High EuroBraced. My Sump is 55" Long 24" Wide and 18" High

Using your plans - I'm thinking of building the stand using 2X6's with a Center Supports 1/3rd of the way in on Both sides. (I'd rather NOT but this is where the questions come in.)

In Order to fit more equipment inside of the stand I want to build the stand as large as possible with the most usable space inside the stand. To keep material costs down I was thinking of building the following stand Dimensions.

8 Foot Long (I have an area of 8.5 Total Feet or roughly 104") - Planned to use an 8 Foot long because it would take me 3 or 4 Pieces of Ply to Skin it. The back could be 1 sheet of ply with ventilation built in or open. The front can be 1 Piece of Ply with doors cut into the ply around the opening.

I was planning on the following Options

Option A

Build a 8ft Stand using the directions in the original diagram out of 2X6's
Over the area of the stand where the tank will be sitting (center) - Completely reinforce that area with upright 2X4's or 2X6's attached to the bottom Runners (Orange) Put the runners equidistant from the edge of the tank (At the BACK and at the front.) If this works correctly then the sump should be able to fit under the stand itself or the right on a supported sub floor with 1/2" or 3/4" Ply as a base for the sump to sit on.

Option B

Build a stand using the measurements of a 60" X 30 X 38" Cabinet. Then Onto the SIDES of the Cabinet/Original Frame Build ON to the stand using 2x4's to make the 2 side cabinets.


Since my Overflow is centered on the tank and on the back wall away from the edge of the tank does the plans allow me to install my bulkheads and plumbing?
Does the TANK using these plans fit completely FLUSH on the cabinet or is there a Lip? If there is a lip that's FINE. I'm just trying to see if my bulkheads will clear the top back rail to install my plumbing.

[NewbReefer316]

First off, thanks to rocket and all those who have contributed thus far. I built my first stand in less than an hour thanks to you all, it was a basic build for a 75g tank. I'm working on my second stand and have a few questions about vertical supports and using a foam liner.

Stand dimensions: 96"x24"x37.5"
Construction: 2x4's w/ 3/4" ply for top and bottom, all 4 sides left open
Tank/s: 2x50g 48"x24"x12"

1. Do I need vertical supports, other than the L's that go around each corner? The total tank volume is low compared to the length, but it's still a full 8' run. If so, how many do I need and at what distance? Would it be possible to put 2 in the back, splitting the tank into thirds, and one up front in the middle?

2. Do I need the foam on the top and bottom of the stand? The sump on the bottom shelf is acrylic but the rest of the tanks have trim on the bottom.

http://i.imgur.com/1Ejbn4P.jpg

[SP1187]

greetings.

I'm finally getting back in to the hobby after 20+ years away.
I was going to pull the old 110 tall out of storage, but the mrs. is worried about leaks.
So we've decided to move the planned main floor tank on a stand to a new 150 tall in wall in the basement.
It is going in to an existing non-load bearing wall.
The DT is 48"L x 24"W x 30"H. I will have a 55g for the sump.
Per the template, do I use 2 x 4's still, since the tank is 48"L,
or does the taller tank push me in to 2 x 6?

thanks
Mike

[SP1187]

where'd our resident rocket scientist go?

[Ls2Goat]

..

Question for you.
I'm looking to make a tank fornanfrag tank.
The tank is 24x24x10 and is drilled.
I want the stand to be 24x24x36.
Using 2x4 for framing is loose a lot of usable space in the cabinet, is there any reason I couldn't use either pressure treated or furniture grade 2x2 for the framing and 1/2" ply for added support and skin?

[Ls2Goat]

I never got a response so I went with it any ways, followed this guide with some minor tweaks.
Did not use the screw boards, added supports for the 4 vertical legs.

It easily held myself plus another at 450lbs.

As of now I've got the tank filled with water sitting on top of it in the garage, I'll skin it in a few days unless any one has any recommendations.

Hmm can't upload any pictures so here's a Photobucket image

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y302/Bobyboy101/7615558D-FA83-4F47-82BF-65AA71E2AF6E_zpsagy6vvef.jpg

[SP1187]

does anyone have a copy the color coded pic that goes with the stock list from the start of this thread?

[Floyd R Turbo]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=377360&stc=1&d=1501703588

[SP1187]

Thank you

[Floyd R Turbo]

I had to download his entire album using the $2 Chrome extension then attach it here, they apparently have extended the block to include not even being able to view the photo when you click on the pic/thumb in another user's album. Or maybe it was that way in the first place, dunno. I get the speedomoter pic when looking at any of his pics individually.

[SP1187]

sadly there are alot of speedomoter pics where there once were great pics.
thanks again.

add the $2 to my order :thumbsup:

[Floyd R Turbo]

lol nah, I bought it so I could download all of my own pics!

[Zacktosterone]

Seems a lot of people are asking questions but there arnt a lot of answeres where did rocket go?

I'm hoping someone could give me a hand with my dilemma

I need help designing a stand for a 72x30x30 reef tank out of wood that uses the the same vertical purple supports but can use a support in the back of the stand but is completely open in the front. I'm trying to avoid using 2x8s I need it to be completely open in the front. The total stand height will be 34 3/4" tall including the plywood top. I need it to be as strong as possible but as open as possible

[lagatbezan]

Seems a lot of people are asking questions but there arnt a lot of answeres where did rocket go?

I'm hoping someone could give me a hand with my dilemma

I need help designing a stand for a 72x30x30 reef tank out of wood that uses the the same vertical purple supports but can use a support in the back of the stand but is completely open in the front. I'm trying to avoid using 2x8s I need it to be completely open in the front. The total stand height will be 34 3/4" tall including the plywood top. I need it to be as strong as possible but as open as possible

Did you try sending him a PM? He helped me design a stand for my 96" 300g about a year ago through PM.

[Zacktosterone]

Did you try sending him a PM? He helped me design a stand for my 96" 300g about a year ago through PM.

Yeah I did. As soon as I posted this here. Havnt heard back from him

[Zacktosterone]

bump... anyone?

[asonitez]

Hey Zack,
I also did not receive a response from rocket and I offered Money lol. Regardless,
following the example and measurements from the first page you should be able to build the stand and no vertical supports for that length using the 2X6 or 2X8. - You can add support to the rear as you specified which will help the center or cross brace.

Using a 1/2" or 3/4" Plywood to wrap the stand will also lend the support you need in the front. I'm guessing you WILL be wrapping the stand? That's a pretty heavy load and personally I would think adding one vertical support in the center would give me a piece of mind.

[asonitez]

This is my stand. It's a stand within a Stand. From the pics you can see I built a 8ft stand and out a 5 ft tank on it with a kick azz filtration but also because at either end of the tank will be decorations etc. The tank is centered and under the 4 corners are vertical 2x6 supports. All in all it's pretty rock solid.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/f07c990c0bf7845560c8085a95343531.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/b712c007d0865605c91cd22b71c50f53.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/bde4d28c47697160103b8b31fc80ce4e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/467f0d17b3a0c323c31225a5d526acbd.jpg


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[Zacktosterone]

Hey Zack,
I also did not receive a response from rocket and I offered Money lol. Regardless,
following the example and measurements from the first page you should be able to build the stand and no vertical supports for that length using the 2X6 or 2X8. - You can add support to the rear as you specified which will help the center or cross brace.

Using a 1/2" or 3/4" Plywood to wrap the stand will also lend the support you need in the front. I'm guessing you WILL be wrapping the stand? That's a pretty heavy load and personally I would think adding one vertical support in the center would give me a piece of mind.

reading the post it says anything over 180 gallons and at 72" will need a 2x8. this tank is 240 gallons so i'm worried that a 2x6 won't cut it. if i double up on the 2x6 is that going to do the job?

[jacob.morgan78]

anybody have a copy of the original post without the annoying speedometer? just want to check my design but can't that original post.

thanks!

[Zacktosterone]

anybody have a copy of the original post without the annoying speedometer? just want to check my design but can't that original post.

thanks!

Go back one page

[Floyd R Turbo]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=377360&stc=1&d=1501703588

[jacob.morgan78]

I saw that. Thanks. :-)

I'm looking for the formulas and such that went with the color coded stand.

Thank you!

[Floyd R Turbo]

those would probably be in text in one of the first posts in this thread, or the split (the original thread)

[Rx79394]

Wow that photobucket sure is making post like these hard... Imagine what is going to happen when this thread has 20 newer pages.

[jacob.morgan78]

it's sad really... a lot of great info is basically lost. I learned a lot of what I know now from browsing the pictures in these forums!

[Floyd R Turbo]

There is a way to recover them. But not all software platforms have developers that are creating plug-ins/add-ons to do this (including vB 3.8). RC would essentially have to switch platforms and migrate the entire forum over, then recover the pics.

[jacob.morgan78]

something should be done... it has decreased the value of the forums significantly IMO.

[Floyd R Turbo]

It only affects certain forum software engines. Not all of them. The paywall/speedometer works the same on all of them, so unless you do something about it, they'll show up. The thing is, you can do something about it if you are on certain software platforms.

Anyways, that's way off topic. But I agree, it has completely hosed up a lot of forums. Apparently, if you pay for the $2.99/mo "ad-free" account, you are grandfathered in to being able to hotlink until the end of this year. That's why it hasn't affected any of my posts, yet....but it will.

[Rx79394]

The other thing, is the pricing they expect, 399 or w/e?!

I could see them trying to increase their revenue stream by charging the forums hosts that amount, but not end-users....

[Floyd R Turbo]

not sure what w/e means, but it's the end user they expect to pay this. If you want to rip your pics down, get the $2 chrome extension (for google chrome obviously) then you can download your entire album. You still have to do it a folder a folder at a time

[riksworld]

Hi All,

Can anyone recommend the correct wood for the following,

L=60 inch x W=36 inch x h=24

Was thinking of either 2x6 or 2x8?

Many thanks

[Colin_Maybe]

anybody have a copy of the original post without the annoying speedometer? just want to check my design but can't that original post.

thanks!

I found an archived version using http://cachedview.com/


https://web.archive.org/web/20160308215838/http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964

[Lsufan]

Hi All,

Can anyone recommend the correct wood for the following,

L=60 inch x W=36 inch x h=24

Was thinking of either 2x6 or 2x8?

Many thanks


If u don't mind a center brace then all 2 by 4 will be fine. If u don't want a center brace then u could use 2 by 4 on everything except the top brace. On the top brace it would be best to use a 2 by 8 but u would more then likely be fine with a double 2 by 6 to save some head room.

Something a lot of people don't think of when they size the top frame is how they are going to skin the front. If u have a 60" stand but u skin the front with plywood & only have a 48" opening for the door, then u can place a brace on each side of the door opening & u would only have a 48" span without a brace. In your case that would mean u could get by with a 2 by 6 top frame & u wouldn't have to worry about doubling the 2 by 6.

The issue with a 2 by 8 top frame is unless u build the stand 42" high (which would probably be to tall in your case with a 24" tank) it leaves very little headroom to get under the stand to work

[cdfjr1975]

Do the screw strips need to be one piece per screw strip? I have scrap which would work but not go from top to bottom so thought to use one piece for the top and one for the bottom.

Also would pocket screws work for this join instead of screw strips? I know the intent was for simple joinery but wasn't sure if this was an option.

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[cdfjr1975]

Stand building 101, the corner should not stand like that.

Apparently one of the 2x4s are warped. Identified the culprit and now need to get another to replace or will the pressure of the tank level this out?

On a side note:

Don't take for granted that all 2x6s are created equal, even if they are from the same stack. One measures 5 1/8 while the other is 5 3/8

Guess if I need to pick up a flat 2x4 I will need to locate another 2x6 which matches one of these.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170901/e7e84620b937ec6e20e9c8556caf6e55.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170901/ac6bc987319024cee6ae6237ad37ff77.jpg

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[SP1187]

I saw that. Thanks. :-)

I'm looking for the formulas and such that went with the color coded stand.

Thank you!

was reading back thru from the beginning and found this.....

[URL="http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11965020&postcount=219"]

[johnfjenkins]

For a 220g 72x24wx30h, 2x8 for top rail should I add center support front and rear?
also should the purple be 2x6?

[JonMayo]

Has anyone used miranti board to skin their stands instead of plywood

[beth.thomas04]

Hey guys, im about to start setting up my first reef tank but im worried about the stand i got with the tank. Tank is 150 gallons.. 6 ft long and stand has no center brace.
Problem is i cant put a center brace in with the size of the sump..
Is there anything else i can do to ensure this will hold my tank or is it ok as is?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170926/a1d03d09f30ed091409d1b9ed3a05454.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170926/997bd589c5797a5a63ade22d0edfa46d.jpg

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[d_malisz]

Maybe someone will be interested to do somethig cleaner and wery solid (alu systems): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sg70S0GzReQ

[JonMayo]

I have had freshwater (mulitiple aquariums) for years. However recently I came across a 90gal. I didn't like the stand so I decided to build one as per these plans. What do you guys think so far?

[Linkfalcon]

Hey guys looking for some help with plans for a custom stand for a propagation system
The stand will hold 4 10 gallon tanks side by side and a 40b sump I think does not need to be skinned or anything fancy

So the dementions of the stand will be
46x22x30 tall

Thanks guys for your time and help

[Grimreaperz]

Could we get someone to fix the pictures? In the OP post

[BoisBlancBoy]

Here is the original picture.

I want to build a stand for a 48x24x24 120 gallon tank. So according to the original plan I would go with a 2x6 top from and the bottom frame would stay 2x4. I would like to get a 55 gallon sump in there 48x12.75x21”

How tall would you have the stand to make sure there was enough clearance for plumbing, skimmer maintenance etc? Do you think I’m using up too much space buy using the 55 gallon sump?

[Chad_P]

How much of a crown is too much? I've got everything built and 1/2" plywood on top and running a level across indicates I'm not perfectly flat. Is it worth just trying to get better lumber and rebuilding? Also was thinking of ditching the plywood if I have to sand it perfectly flat. this is for a 180 gallon tank.

[Floyd R Turbo]

Eliminating a crown is very important. For a tank over 48" long, you need full support all the way around. I had a crown on my 120 2x2x4 stand and didn't notice it, a few days after filling it I saw the seals forming bubbles and I had to tear it down & shim up the plywood on the corners.

So you have 2 options here, one is to remove the plywood and use a planer to shave the crown off of the 2x4s or 2x6s so that the plywood sits flat, or you can loosen up the screws enough to shim up the plywood and then screw it back down so it's secure and the screws are countersunk enough.

Depending on the crown, you might need very thin shims. I got a pack of cedar shakes from Menards, I think it was around $20-$30 for a pack (a large pack) and those are tapered down in varying thicknesses, some are paper thin. So you can snap them off in various widths and use 2 narrow shims inserted into the gap (one from inside, one from outside) and then you are essentially "extending" the 2x4s/2x6s such that the plywood will be level

[Chad_P]

Thanks for the help. The plywood top is glued down, so it's gonna get messy. I think I'll try to rebuild with some more true lumber. Then I'll ditch the plywood top anyways since once it's nice and flat I don't want to introduce any more opportunity for messing that up.

Has anyone thought of using LVL's? I know it will be .25" wider but those are nice and straight. obviously more expensive but stronger and less headache dealing with the crown.

[Floyd R Turbo]

Yeah I was afraid of that...the gluing part.

Well, assuming this is a glass tank, you could potentially put another sheet of plywood down and shim between that one and the current top one, but you would somewhat lose the ability to shim from the other side, unless you cut out the middle of the current plywood, leaving only the part that is directly over a support. That wouldn't be difficult if you used a router and flush cutter riding on the supports. Could also use a jigsaw. Then you could get to the inside to shim.

[Chad_P]

That’s a thought. Let me mess around with it and see what path I take. I didn’t run into this on my 93 cube stand but it was a lot shorter run. Thanks!


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[Chad_P]

That’s a thought. Let me mess around with it and see what path I take. I didn’t run into this on my 93 cube stand but it was a lot shorter run. Thanks!


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Is it worth putting a plywood top on? I was looking at some and they are all cupped. I don’t want to spend time getting my 2x6s perfectly flat then fight with a piece of plywood that won’t lay flat. Ive got an all glass with trim 180 gallon. Frame is 73”x25”.

I realize the plywood can be glued/screws to get flat but don’t want to count on that. I want to make sure my tank is fully supported/sitting flat if I’m going through all this re-work.


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[BrettDS]

Is it worth putting a plywood top on? I was looking at some and they are all cupped. I don’t want to spend time getting my 2x6s perfectly flat then fight with a piece of plywood that won’t lay flat. Ive got an all glass with trim 180 gallon. Frame is 73”x25”.

I realize the plywood can be glued/screws to get flat but don’t want to count on that. I want to make sure my tank is fully supported/sitting flat if I’m going through all this re-work.


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I don’t think there’s any need for plywood under a glass tank with trim. The tank sits on the trim, which only runs around the edges. The wood frame will fully support the tank.

My 220G glass tank with trim has been on a stand I built with these plans with no plywood for more than 2 years with no problems.

[Floyd R Turbo]

Agreed, with a rimmed glass tank I don’t think it’s quite as important, though it does add support

As for cupped plywood, cheap plywood probably does warp, the plywood I use (and the only I would use for an acrylic or glass/rimless tank) would be 3/4” (actually 23/32”) Aruco, which is expensive but very much worth it

[Lsufan]

I also use 3/4” plywood. If the frame is perfectly in plane then the plywood will also be flat once it is screwed down. Dimensional lumber has inconsistencies but plywood is pretty consistent as far as thickness. I think the plywood definitely helps but it helps more to keep the stand square & from racking.

I wouldn’t go as far as using lvl’s. I know locally to me a 16” by 16’ lvl is $125. I don’t think I would rebuild the stand eighther, but I’m not sure what point u are at on the build. I know not many people have a planer to use on dimensional lumber, so u have to make sure u use the straightest pieces u can find.

I would go the route Floyd mentioned. Preferably, remove the 1/2” plywood & cut a piece of 3/4” plywood for the top. Shim where it is needed to get it flat. I would use liquid nail under the plywood instead of glue. The liquid nail gets very hard so it will fill in the voids inbetween & around the shims. I would place just enough screws to get it flat & leave it be until the liquid nail dries. Once it dries u can add more screws if u need to. I would also screw right ontop of the shims so u don’t risk sucking the plywood down inbetween the shims.

If possible I would try & shim from the inside of the stand. I would try & add the shims & screw it down before adding the liquid nail. Once u have it flat take a little brad nailer & nail the shims to the plywood from under the stand so the shims stay in place. Then take out the screws & remove the plywood. Then place the liquid nail down & put the plywood back in place. If u nail the shims to the plywood everything should be perfectly in place when u set it in the liquid nail. Then screw it back into the same screw holes.

It will work eighther way but the second option would let u be able to adjust it & get it right without having a big mess of liquid nail. U would also know that the liquid nail is solid because u wouldn’t be moving it around once u set it in place

[Floyd R Turbo]

I would use liquid nail under the plywood instead of glue. The liquid nail gets very hard so it will fill in the voids inbetween & around the shims. I would place just enough screws to get it flat & leave it be until the liquid nail dries. Once it dries u can add more screws if u need to. I would also screw right ontop of the shims so u don’t risk sucking the plywood down inbetween the shims

Great suggestion

[Chad_P]

Great suggestion



Thanks all. I rebuilt the top and used a belt sander to get flat. Thought I got the crowns nice and flat but on one side I screwed it down and found a couple of spots I sanded too low. I shimmed up the top using a new piece of 3/4” melamine.


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[JonCherba]

I have a design for an aquarium stand based on Joey's (king of diy) design. It looks very similar to Rockets. I have been trying to figure out how to calculate the max weight my design can hold so I can figure out the safety factor. I can email a PDF on Monday if anybody needs it. I may be able to get the PDF tonight. Thanks.

[Djbeasley05]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180523/c5a4c5b0e43f6a199f7f24cb0a3e84b5.jpg

I’m putting a 60 gallon cube on this pedestal with a 40b sump under it. With that pedestal support the cube? There are 6- 3x3 solid wood pillars under the platform. Under the top is 2-2x6’s running front to neck where the platform legs sit.


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[GreenbriarManor]

Good morning all,

I am building a stand for a 60x24x24 rimless.

My plan is to use 2x6 on the top box and 2x4 on the bottom and most likely center braces front and back.

I have two questions:
1. Can I add short 4" legs/feet to the bottom box to hold it up off the floor for cleaning underneath? I have wood floors sitting on a concrete slab sub-floor.

2. If so, what do you recommend? Do I follow the corner leg design and use two 2x4 at 90deg on each corner and then maybe a single one in the center front and back? Or something else?

(Apologies if this has been answered, the thread is so huge that searches for "legs", "feet", etc was difficult to parse.)

Thanks,
J

[r2odie]

I have read much of this long two part thread and am still a little bit confused about how long a span I can have with no center brace. I know many will say put vertical braces to be safe. But I would like to be able to remove my 6 ft sump (should i ever have to) by leaving a 76 inch span in the front. The back will be vertically supported as well as three 2x6 horizontal braces. The tank is 10 ft long and will hold about 350 gal. The top rails are 2x6 and the open span in the front is 76 inches. I will use a temp support if i have to, but would still have to empty the tank to unload the potential weight. The tank is glass with a trim ring on the top, it is also rounded in the front corners (no seams). Thanks for any responses.

[Bpb]

I have read much of this long two part thread and am still a little bit confused about how long a span I can have with no center brace. I know many will say put vertical braces to be safe. But I would like to be able to remove my 6 ft sump (should i ever have to) by leaving a 76 inch span in the front. The back will be vertically supported as well as three 2x6 horizontal braces. The tank is 10 ft long and will hold about 350 gal. The top rails are 2x6 and the open span in the front is 76 inches. I will use a temp support if i have to, but would still have to empty the tank to unload the potential weight. The tank is glass with a trim ring on the top, it is also rounded in the front corners (no seams). Thanks for any responses.



If you put a door on the end you should be able to remove your sump provided the screw strips aren’t in the way


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[r2odie]

If you put a door on the end you should be able to remove your sump provided the screw strips aren’t in the way


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Great idea, but it wont work the sump is two wide. Im thinking more along the lines of the four points hold most of the weight as glass wont flex?

[Lsufan]

Glass will flex & it’s very important that the stand keeps that from happening. I wouldn’t go a span of 76” with a 2X6 top frame. I would feel comfortable making that span with a 2 X8 top frame. If u don’t want to do that then I would atleast double up the 2X6 with them glued together.

[r2odie]

[QUOTE=Lsufan;25490803]Glass will flex & it’s very important that the stand keeps that from happening. I wouldn’t go a span of 76” with a 2X6 top frame. I would feel comfortable making that span with a 2 X8 top frame. If u don’t want to do that then I would atleast double up the 2X6 with them glued together.[/QUOTE

I can make the top 2x8 simply by making the bottom the top, and moving the three horizontal braces. I'm even thinking about a 1/4 inch plate to stiffen the top beam. Thanks for the input.

[Lsufan]

That would be the best option. The bottom frame isn’t as important because it is in contact with the floor. 2X4 for the bottom is plenty, u just want to make sure that if u have to shim the stand to get it level u have a shim under any vertical supports on the stand.

[r2odie]

That would be the best option. The bottom frame isn’t as important because it is in contact with the floor. 2X4 for the bottom is plenty, u just want to make sure that if u have to shim the stand to get it level u have a shim under any vertical supports on the stand.

Yes, the top is now 2x8 (76" span) but now it has a fiberglassed wood top and the bottom is 2x6.

[sfsuphysics]

Just out of curiosity, why even a 2x6 for the bottom? Seems a bit excessive for something that inherently isn't going to bow due to weight at all due to contact with the ground.

[r2odie]

Just out of curiosity, why even a 2x6 for the bottom? Seems a bit excessive for something that inherently isn't going to bow due to weight at all due to contact with the ground.

No real reason, but I had already built the stand with the 2x8 bottom and a 2x6 top. I has originally planned to have vertical supports to facilitate the doors, but then i wanted to have the 76 open span (sump) and use barn door sliding hardware. So I inverted the stand in order to have the 2x8 for the top rails.

[sfsuphysics]

Gotcha, I guess you used 2x8s for the bottom because you wanted the sump raised a bit from floor level but didn't want to build a floating platform?

[FullBoreReefer]

I will be building a new stand for my new tank. The tank measures 60”x36”x24”.

Any advice on size of materials? My sump will be in my basement so I don’t really need the space/open concept to fit equipment underneath. I will however be putting doors on the front to access/service any plumbing. The tank uses an external overflow with a bean animal setup.

Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[Vinny Kreyling]

Basically a 220, 2 x 4 construction should be fine.
The beginning pages will answer any questions on construction.
Build the sump up on a bench for easier maint. & eliminate a sore back.

[Hitch08]

As I posted in the "Reef Discussion" forum, my tank developed a leak last night. It was somewhere in the seam on the bottom.

I built my stand following the design on the first page of this thread. Since my old tank had the overflow in the back left, I installed two of those blue 2x4's for the upper rails (the ones that are intended to keep the upper rails from twisting). They are each about one-third of the way across. In other words, instead of having one blue one go across the middle, I installed two. I did use 2x8s for the top frame, since its a 120 gallon tank.

Wishing that I didn't do that, as those will now block the overflows in the new tank.

I did add a sheet of plywood to the top. It was glued and screwed. Will the top sheet of plywood be sufficient to keep the upper rails from twisting? As noted, I will need to cut out part of the two blue ones in order to use the overflow.

Alternatively, should I install a new 2x4 in the middle? I could only really glue it in place.

Thanks!

[FullBoreReefer]

Just finished mine for my new tank!

60”x36”x24” tank

2x4 and 2x6 construction. I will be adding a sheet on top as well. But, I added two vertical supports on the “back”, offset from center since plumbing from my external overflow will be routed through. I also added one vertical support in the “front” in the center, I’ll be doing some sort of shelving on each side.


https://i.imgur.com/DDPF2Ms.jpg

[cvrle1]

Hello everyone, I have been reading this massive thread last several days, and have one quick question.

I have a 4x2x2 tank, and am thinking about building a stand using template outlined in the original thread (before it split) My tank is glass and has plastic frame around it. I understand how tank is supported and so on, so my question is this: Can I somehow build a 5 foot wide stand for a 4 foot wide tank? It would be nice to have extra room for all the equipment, but not sure if it can be done safely due to the way tank is supported with original plans.

Thanks for the help

[therealkilo]

Does some one have the calculator link?

It expired. Looking for a cut list for a 75 gallon.

[cvrle1]

Does some one have the calculator link?

It expired. Looking for a cut list for a 75 gallon.

From original thread:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm289/RocketEngineer/StandTemplate.jpg~original

The basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The upper one supports the tank and transfers the load to the legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4 to assist in construction and sheething the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor.


Design notes:
*The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. Like color pieces are the same length and of the same board size.
*The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
*The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.

Ok, now to the cut list:
First off: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high.

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2"
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"

Covering the sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting. Doors can be mounted to the legs as desired.

So there it is. 21 pieces in 6 lenghts equals a tank stand that should fit the bill for most people. There are other plans out there but this is a simple design using simple tools and common wood sizes. It may not suit everyone's application but it should fit the bill for most common size tanks.

[AddictReef]

Just finished mine for my new tank!

60”x36”x24” tank

2x4 and 2x6 construction. I will be adding a sheet on top as well. But, I added two vertical supports on the “back”, offset from center since plumbing from my external overflow will be routed through. I also added one vertical support in the “front” in the center, I’ll be doing some sort of shelving on each side.


https://i.imgur.com/DDPF2Ms.jpg

I am curious how are you screwing the back center (2) vertical pieces & front vertical piece?

[therealkilo]

Looks like everyone added the extra 1/4 inches for black molding?

Correct?

75 gallon tank is 48 1/2 " Wide

[FullBoreReefer]

I am curious how are you screwing the back center (2) vertical pieces & front vertical piece?


Going through the side of each 2x4 at a 45degree angle and lagging to the bottom and top horizontal boards. So each support has four screws. I’ll get a pic if you would like, just let me know...

[FullBoreReefer]

Looks like everyone added the extra 1/4 inches for black molding?

Correct?

75 gallon tank is 48 1/2 " Wide

If your tank has black trim, then yes, I would make your stand long and wide enough to have all the trim resting on the stand.

In my case my tank has no trim, so my stand is exactly the size of my tank.

[AddictReef]

Going through the side of each 2x4 at a 45degree angle and lagging to the bottom and top horizontal boards. So each support has four screws. I’ll get a pic if you would like, just let me know...



Yes please. Would love to visualize this.


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[FullBoreReefer]

Yes please. Would love to visualize this.


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I did just a quick edit which was faster(I’m out in my barn), and probably easier to see than a head of a screw haha. The screws are going through the SIDE of each 2x4 at a 45degree angle. I made them a pretty tight fit to begin with, which should be the case anyways for proper construction. The screws are pretty much only there for safety essentially.

Hope this helps. If not let me know...


https://i.imgur.com/khty5iV.jpg

[Dugthefish]

Hello everyone, I have been reading this massive thread last several days, and have one quick question.

I have a 4x2x2 tank, and am thinking about building a stand using template outlined in the original thread (before it split) My tank is glass and has plastic frame around it. I understand how tank is supported and so on, so my question is this: Can I somehow build a 5 foot wide stand for a 4 foot wide tank? It would be nice to have extra room for all the equipment, but not sure if it can be done safely due to the way tank is supported with original plans.

Thanks for the help

Bump the header up to 2x6 and you'll be fine

[Dugthefish]

Stand for 125g. Had extra cedar 4x4s at the shop, so notched them for the frame to sit on. 2x6 head rails, 2x4 bottom rails, and 1/2" foam for the tank to sit on.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181002/50c64d20b77f98bc51d6b36db1c129e0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181002/e1cc3d544cf0d2cb1e7a3c3e2f7e8a67.jpg

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[W1ngz]

You've all made some nice looking stands. I'm planning a new build, based on what I've learned skimming through this thread. I'd like some input if anyone has. I've started my own thread over here (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25541829#post25541829).

[IowaJeeping]

Ok so my question is. The green screw strips. Do they go all the way to the ground. Also why not cut them full height of stand for extra support?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190218/5afe774cbadaa2b1a5d4f2240b55d31c.jpg

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[Floyd R Turbo]

No, not all the way to the ground and not all the way to the top

The issue is that you want only the orange/blue and red/yellow providing support, and if you have to use a planer or shim to level out either the top of bottom plane, shaving off or sanding lumber with the grain is WAY EASIER than doing it across the grain, in the end of the member

TRUST ME. I had a stand built with this specifically pointed out (don't extend to floor/top with green members) and that request was blatantly ignored and it made doing these fine adjustments a total PITA.

[IowaJeeping]

No, not all the way to the ground and not all the way to the top

The issue is that you want only the orange/blue and red/yellow providing support, and if you have to use a planer or shim to level out either the top of bottom plane, shaving off or sanding lumber with the grain is WAY EASIER than doing it across the grain, in the end of the member

TRUST ME. I had a stand built with this specifically pointed out (don't extend to floor/top with green members) and that request was blatantly ignored and it made doing these fine adjustments a total PITA.Thank you very much

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[reeferjames1]

With that said are the inner green even necessary? if i were to use pocket screws for the pink supports do I need to have the green in place at all?

[Floyd R Turbo]

I think if you use pocket screws, the green supports can go away - but I'd read back on this thread and verify, or wait for someone else to chime in

[lingwendil]

I just got done with the basic frame for one of these, using kiln dried douglas fir. I went for 38x20x35H, for a 40 breeder tank. Only modification is an additional center piece in the bottom frame, and the green (screw strip) pieces span the entire height of the frame for added piece of mind. I will be skinning the bottom frame/platform, top of the frame, and adding two shelves to use the stand as a bookshelf too.

For anybody that is considering building one of these, the single biggest piece of advice that I can give, is use very good screws! The amount of pain/fuss it will save you cannot be stressed enough. I decided to go ahead and follow the advice I was given regarding using these GRK screws, and they are sold specifically with the recommendation that they do not require predrilling or countersinking. They work as advertised for sure- the only issue I had with them was due to me putting one right next to a knot that I hadn't noticed, and subsequently splitting the piece... I simply glued and clamped the piece and it was easily repaired, due to it being a very small split. I was using kiln-dried douglas fir- if you were to use a harder and/or denser wood you may still wish to predrill for added insurance against splitting, especially in the areas where you are drilling into the endgrain of the boards. No matter what you do, apply lots of glue between pieces, and clamp them well during assembly to ensure they are nice and tight during screw-up.


These are the screws I used-

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-9-x-2-1-2-in-Star-Drive-Bugle-Head-R4-Multi-Purpose-Screw-100-per-Pack-103101/203525228

I can honestly say that I will never cheap out on screws again, or bother with philips-head for such applications. These were an absolute breeze to use.

Here's the stand so far- it's getting a torch taken to it to darke and bring out the grain, as well as a boiled linseed oil finish. Going for a simple and rustic look.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=400172&stc=1&d=1551726778

[reeferjames1]

this is the one, thank you for the inspiration. No down to the shop to begin.... Wish KresDFW's pics where still in the thread. they no longer show up. I would like to see your inspiration.

[HHN]

Great thread. Why don't the green 2x4s go all the way to the top too? Wouldn't that easily create more suppport?

[Floyd R Turbo]

They are only stiffeners. If you have to plane the top members, or the bottom members, having the green members extended all the way to the top means you have to plane across the ends of boards.

Don't do it. Trust me. I had someone build a stand for me and specifically pointed out these were not to extend to the top/bottom, but they thought they knew better. The top was not perfectly flat and I spent hours working away at the ends of those stiffeners because they were protruding up too far.

[lingwendil]

Update on mine-

no stain, just boiled linseed oil and polyurethane, after torching and sanding the wood.

Next step is some shelves (this is doing double duty as a bookshelf) and mounting the light hanging bars.

[Salty150]

Here is a beautiful one...


http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/seminolecpa/Tank%20Build/tank3.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/seminolecpa/Tank%20Build/tank1.jpg

[WinnipegDragon]

A question. I plan to start a 36 x 18 x 18 tank for now, with the possibility to upgrade it to a 48 x 24 x 24 in a few years down the road so the stand will be sized for the larger tank.

I was planning on the building the top frame with cross members in the middle and also at the points that the 36" tank will sit, but the vertical braces would still only be at the corners. I am thinking that if I run LVLs , 2x6s or sistered 2x4s for the 48" length it should easily handle the weight of a 50g tank that is only 6" away from the outer edge of the vertical support but I thought I would get opinions.

The entire frame will be assembled with a dowelmax jig so strengthwise it shoudl already be much stronger than pocket screws or glued/screwed butt joints.

[lingwendil]

I would think that you *should* be fine if you go 2x6 for your upper rails, especially if you put some supports front to back between the rails that will put the rim of the 36x18 tank directly in the middle of each piece of wood. I've seen plenty of similar setups over the years that seem trouble free. Are you skinning the stand as well?

[lingwendil]

Also, finally put the shelf in mine, and loaded it with books :)

https://i.ibb.co/NZZRqr7/IMG-20190527-110841.jpg (https://ibb.co/NZZRqr7)

Going to try and find a narrow ~10 gallon or so container for a topoff reservoir that will go behind the books on the bottom soon, but otherwise I'm very happy with it.

[WinnipegDragon]

I would think that you *should* be fine if you go 2x6 for your upper rails, especially if you put some supports front to back between the rails that will put the rim of the 36x18 tank directly in the middle of each piece of wood. I've seen plenty of similar setups over the years that seem trouble free. Are you skinning the stand as well?

Yes, ply sides and the front will be partially skinned. Considering some cross bracing in the corners front and back too.

[Rule69]

Looking at building a stand for a 48x48x24 plywood tank that I am looking at building. I plan on framing the tank like walls of a house to prevent bowing. Would the the stand be essentially the same to build?

[sritter44]

Hi, hoping to get some feedback on a new stand for my Marineland 300dd tank. I currently have the factory stand which I find too short at 29" and smaller than ideal openings on each end of the stand. I can't remove my skimmer body due to the height and can't put a larger sump due to the 17" x 22" openings.

My goal is to build a taller wood stand with larger openings on the end. I'd like to increase the height to 36" or maybe 40" if possible.


It would be ideal to not have a center support but I'm concerned this heavy of a tank would not be safe without it. If I need a brace then a single would be ideal rather than two supports.


Any feedback on these questions and materials needed would be appreciated.

[AbjectMaelstroM]

First time poster, long time lurker. Finally getting around to putting things together; hardest part has been finding lumber that's not all bent to hell. Stand is made for a 48x24x24 120G tank. Top frame is made of 2x6's and is 60x25; I made it wider just to give myself a bit more space down below. Bottom frame dimensions are the same, but made of 2x4's. I omitted the internal braces (GREEN) as I'm using pocket holes...at least that's what I think I read in this thread somewhere. If that is incorrect, let me know and I'll go back and put the supports in. For all my efforts, there is still about a 1/8" wobble to it once it all came together, but hopefully it will settle with the weight of the tank; and if not, I'll try some shims.

Next step will be to prime/seal the frame, skin it with either 1/2" plywood or face-boards...I haven't decided; add trim and figure out the door situation.

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Has anyone tried something like adjustable furniture levelers to compensate for the bit of wobble due to warped boards?

Something like these to use instead of shims?
https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Levelers-Adjustable-Thread-Diameter/dp/B074V5PKTX

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Never mind, just took a look at their weight rating. Shims it is then.

[will1978]

For a tank that is 84 inches long x 35 deep and 25 tall would I need to use 2x8s for the uprights and for the base on the floor and how many supports?

[lingwendil]

personally, I would use 2x4 for lower rails, uprights, two sets of supports, and then 2x8 up top.

[Tuffloud1]

I'm not sure what happened to Rocket Engineer, but I followed his advice to use a 2x8 top frame with no center support on the back side.

This is an in-wall build. 260 gallons, 72x28x30 tank.

The 2x8 is unsupported for a span of 64.5".

I took measurements of 2 spots in the middle of the unsupported section before and after I filled the tank up to about 7 inches from the top.

Measurements are from the floor to the plywood top.

I got some deflection which worries me a little. The tank is 3/4" glass on the bottom and needs to be supported across the entire bottom.

Do I need to sister another 2x8, glue/screw 3/4 plywood, add angle iron to bottom edge?

My concern is deflection over time, not a complete failure.

[will1978]

personally, I would use 2x4 for lower rails, uprights, two sets of supports, and then 2x8 up top.

Isn't that a lot of weight for 2x4 up rights. Granted I would like the extra space to work in

[MBC2012]

Question for the group.
I built a 120" X 26 " stand according to template with 3/4" ply on the top. Top rail was built with 2X8's.. Stand is going to be used for 2 separate 4' 80 gal frag tanks. Still question the need for a center support. Also thought about sistering up the front and back rail to prevent the need of a center support.

Thoughts?

[RocketEngineer]

Have you ever heard the floor creak when you stepped into the middle of a room? At 10' long, that 1600 pound load is going to cause the rails to bow. Now maybe you can accept the fact that the two frag tanks won't be sitting level as the middle sinks under the weight but for me, I would rather put proper supports in place and prevent that problem.

[cvrle1]

Does anyone have picture of original template that isnt stored on Photobucket? Reason I am asking is because photobucket started blurring all pics that they host (and add their watermark across it), so it makes it harder to see what is actually going on.

[Floyd R Turbo]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=403614&stc=1&d=1568905719

[A4edwin]

i don't know if anybody has asked this but can you use 2x4 top for a 100g 48" long without a center brace?

[Bpb]

i don't know if anybody has asked this but can you use 2x4 top for a 100g 48" long without a center brace?



I’d use 2x6 personally. I’m sure it’s been done before but I wouldn’t feel comfortable long term



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