Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

[Redman88]

So, my current station does RO on the left and SW mixing on the right. I'm working on sending my RO right to the ATO reservoir on my tank and therefore will have no need for a dedicated RO container. I plan on switching the RO output to both barrels with a diverter valve so I can mix new water in one barrel while the other acts as the feed for my auto water change system. Another diverter valve will switch the input for the new saltwater. I'm glad I'm already plumbed to mix in either barrel :)

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/19/d872136c37668f6166dd3b513b46d0f6.jpg


Why not set it up so your tank tops of directly from the RO container.

[lnevo]

The setup is in the basement. By sending the RO line upstairs I can leverage that its already under pressure and head height won't make a difference.

[Deton8it]

This is probably a dumb question but please bear with me, I swear I am not trolling. Since I am off this week I am thinking of setting one of these up. Right now I just have 2 Brute cans out in the garage. One is empty, the other is full of RODI. I don't have a powerhead, heater, or anything in there. It's just water. I pull out about 2-3 gallons a day to top off my 5 tanks.

What is the pump for on all of these setups?
What is the benefit of having a powerhead in the Brute? Is circulation really needed in a tank of clean water?
Is the heater just to ensure your top-off water is close to tank water?

[lnevo]

The pump is for mixing salt water, moving between barrels and/or pumping water to tank for water changes.

[Redman88]

My RO sits on my unheated porch all year no heater. If your not making large volume changes the cold water isn't a problem. My pump can circlute between two tanks or top off my three tanks. Since I don't premix my salt water currently I have two tanks of RO that I use for top off on my three tanks two fresh and one salt.

[lapoolboy]

This is not my setup, but I am building one virtually identical and wanted feedback....

I initially thought I should add a valve and short section of hose from a tee at each tank outlet so that I can gravity drain water into buckets/jugs if I needed to.

Now that I think about it more, I can just use the valve and hose on the pump discharge pipe to deliver RODI or saltwater to the buckets/jugs under pressure if I wanted to.

My question is....if I was mixing/recirculating saltwater in the mixing tank before and I needed to fill a bucket with RODI for topoff, wouldn't a portion of the plumbing then be "contaminated" by saltwater if I dispense it this way?

That's why I originally wanted to install two valves at the tank outlets with short hoses on them. Of course, this would mean I would have to elevate the entire system up off the floor and onto some sort of stand. Thoughts?

[homebrewdude]

First try.
Not sure this is the pump I want to use.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o152/snt_bernardus/29gal%20Reef%20Tank/Water/2015-12-23%2017.34.12_zpst4ithvnf.jpg~original

[skeeter_ca]

This is not my setup, but I am building one virtually identical and wanted feedback....

I initially thought I should add a valve and short section of hose from a tee at each tank outlet so that I can gravity drain water into buckets/jugs if I needed to.

Now that I think about it more, I can just use the valve and hose on the pump discharge pipe to deliver RODI or saltwater to the buckets/jugs under pressure if I wanted to.

My question is....if I was mixing/recirculating saltwater in the mixing tank before and I needed to fill a bucket with RODI for topoff, wouldn't a portion of the plumbing then be "contaminated" by saltwater if I dispense it this way?

That's why I originally wanted to install two valves at the tank outlets with short hoses on them. Of course, this would mean I would have to elevate the entire system up off the floor and onto some sort of stand. Thoughts?

I have a gravity feed outlet for both my RO/DI reservoir and my saltwater mixing station. The platform is raised slightly off the floor to do this on the saltwater barrel and the RO/DI is stacked above it. I made sure I could use gravity because what if the pump goes out and I really need water for some reason. Gravity will never break so I can depend on it.

[jbm421]

All I can say is that there are tons of awesome creative ideas here for mixing stations. I will add mine as soon as it's completed! This site now that I have started utilizing it has helped me out a ton more than my local club. Thanks to everyone for sharing

[themaddhatter]

Anyone have a source for the containers here in Canada?

[reefjunkie86]

Anyone have a source for the containers here in Canada?
Here's a couple places I know of.

http://plastictanks.ca/catalog.php

http://www.ontarioagra.ca/products.html

Hope that helps.

Eric

[Redman88]

Anyone have a source for the containers here in Canada?


Find a place that does water filtration system and get a couple of used water softener brine tanks.

[UFO8MyCow]

You can always send an email to the tank manufacturers and ask for local distributors.

I was going to use Brine tanks but after their half way full they bow out so bad I didn't trust them

[Redman88]

You can always send an email to the tank manufacturers and ask for local distributors.

I was going to use Brine tanks but after their half way full they bow out so bad I didn't trust them


Haven't seen any bowing in my tanks

[themaddhatter]

Here's a couple places I know of.

http://plastictanks.ca/catalog.php

http://www.ontarioagra.ca/products.html

Hope that helps.

Eric
Thank you, I'll try them out.

[themaddhatter]

Find a place that does water filtration system and get a couple of used water softener brine tanks.
That's actually going to be my likely outcome. I can get them for free because my company actually just started installing softeners. I like the look of the sealed containers and the premounted bulkheads. If I can get the 25 gal vertical polytanks for a decent price, I'll buy them. So far, around 110 each is what I'm getting.

[Pwnm30rdi3]

You guys have some awesome looking set-ups. Right now I'm just using 1 Brute container for both RO collection and Salt Mixing. The more I see in this thread, the more I want to make my own mixing station!

[Redman88]

You guys have some awesome looking set-ups. Right now I'm just using 1 Brute container for both RO collection and Salt Mixing. The more I see in this thread, the more I want to make my own mixing station!


Mine is up for sell. Needs new inter-tubes

[Tautoga]

Stupid question but how much volume of salt water do you guys think is best to have on hand? Enough for a 50% H2O change enough or should you have more?

Thanks

[themaddhatter]

Stupid question but how much volume of salt water do you guys think is best to have on hand? Enough for a 50% H2O change enough or should you have more?

Thanks
I'd say that's a good guideline. More is better but the realities of available space may dictate how far you can go. I have a 93 cube (total volume probably around 100) , and I'm planning to go with 2 25 gallon Poly tanks. One for mix and one for RODI. In a pinch I can use the 25 gallons of salt water and immediately prepare another 25 to dump in . it won't be aged but chances are if the eventuality has arisen, that's the least of my worries...

[chilli_reef]

I'm pressed for space. (Live in a trailer)
So I use a 35g rubber made trash can for my rodi holding.
A small pump to pump that into a rubber made mixing tote (15g)
Same small pump to pump it to the DTS or sump. Same pump to put from the DTS or sump.
When I'm done the can stays put under the bar and the tote goes back in the closet.
The sink is in the bar right next to the tank so no buckets ! Just a 3/4" hose.

I make up what I need when I need it.
May not be the best but gotta do what I have to due to space.

[lapoolboy]

Finished mine today. Just need to get a GFCI receptacle installed so I can plug in and configure Apex Jr.

[Johnbarmy]

Looking to do something like these soon

[bboersma79]

Guys, thanks for all the info in this thread I am 99% complete with my mixing station and had two questions.

I have two stacked 32g brutes, top is RODI water bottom is salt water, feed the tank with Litermeter 3.

1)For the guys who dose Kalk, do you just let any excess calc water run into your salt mixing bucket if any is left at the time you need to make new saltwater? (I presume the mixing in the salt container would evaporate most of the Kalk anyways but wanted to make sure?

2) I have an Air Water Ice Typhoon RO/DI with ASOV, when my solenoid closes the clean water valve my Aquatec 8800 also turns off (I have the booster pump on the same power line with a splitter as the solenoid). pressure with pump on is 65-80PSI when pump is off the feedline pressure is ~40PSI, my ASOV does not seem to be working as I am still getting waste water after the solenoid closes and the booster turns off? Any ideas did I accidentially blowout the ASOV, is the best solution just to replace the ASOV (or perhaps the air water ice fast flush valve is the culprit?).

Thanks!

[Pwnm30rdi3]

I picked up two 55 gallon drums with removable lids today from Craigslist for $25 a piece. They were used for green pepper storage and fermentation, so food grade.

Going to order some plumbing and a panworld pump from BRS. Now I don't have to use the same trashcan for RO/DI and Salt.

[homebrewdude]

Filled it with water.
Turned on the pump.
Pump died 5min later and is leaking from the front housing.
Figures....


First try.
Not sure this is the pump I want to use.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o152/snt_bernardus/29gal%20Reef%20Tank/Water/2015-12-23%2017.34.12_zpst4ithvnf.jpg~original

[delmo]

That's probably not an external pump, the internal pumps like this usually will leak from their housing...

[cwill78295]

Anyone here in Maryland know of a local place i can buy some storage tanks?

[homebrewdude]

That's probably not an external pump, the internal pumps like this usually will leak from their housing...
It is a standard mag drive pond pump. Specs state submerged or inline. I ordered a new impeller and cap/oring for it.

[davehead86]

It is a standard mag drive pond pump. Specs state submerged or inline. I ordered a new impeller and cap/oring for it.

Mine leaked because the fittings would not sit properly because of the way the pump and fittings were designed.

I had to redesign my saltwater station because of this, it is now used as a submerged pump.

[DarthReefer27]

Anyone here in Maryland know of a local place i can buy some storage tanks?

i checked around a little bit but could not find anywhere. i didn't mind paying ~200 for two 50 gallon drums but i was not going to pay another ~100 for shipping. i had asked around where to find some locally without any luck. i ended up getting the standard brute cans from Lowes. if you find anywhere, let me know.

[South City]

Craigslist is a great source for food grade plastic 55 gallon drums. Here in St Louis, you can regularly find them on there for around $15 to $20 a piece.

After a quick search, here's an example ad from the Baltimore area. There are many more.

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/grd/5298839054.html

Look for the white ones. I like them better since you can see the water level through the sides.

i checked around a little bit but could not find anywhere. i didn't mind paying ~200 for two 50 gallon drums but i was not going to pay another ~100 for shipping. i had asked around where to find some locally without any luck. i ended up getting the standard brute cans from Lowes. if you find anywhere, let me know.

[UFO8MyCow]

Contact the manufacturer and find out if they have any local distributors in your area. I got my norwesco tanks locally for cheaper than any of the online distributors

[Typlus5]

Here's a cart I made to eliminate carrying (and spilling) water. It's a Rubbermaid cart with two 15 gallon vessels.

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Typlus5/Reef%20Savvy/1DA8EE94-F8E5-4583-B4FA-2067DEE6A6B0.jpg~original (http://s686.photobucket.com/user/Typlus5/media/Reef%20Savvy/1DA8EE94-F8E5-4583-B4FA-2067DEE6A6B0.jpg.html)

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Typlus5/Reef%20Savvy/9C9FB42B-C36E-44C9-B559-58B71A5F3BBA.jpg~original (http://s686.photobucket.com/user/Typlus5/media/Reef%20Savvy/9C9FB42B-C36E-44C9-B559-58B71A5F3BBA.jpg.html)

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Typlus5/Reef%20Savvy/E619DB30-1939-4F7C-9C32-1B2989321E30.jpg~original (http://s686.photobucket.com/user/Typlus5/media/Reef%20Savvy/E619DB30-1939-4F7C-9C32-1B2989321E30.jpg.html)

[soulpatch]

Anyone here in Maryland know of a local place i can buy some storage tanks?

I just picked up a 35 gallon tank from Tractor supply for shy of 100 bucks. Has a top cap and a bulkhead already and for me the fact that it is a gorixontal leg stand makes things perfect. They have larger versions as well but for me the 35 was all I needed.

Here is the link:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/leg-style-storage-tank-35-gal?cm_vc=-10005

[acidblondie]

I just got two of these......Free shipping

http://www.bayteccontainers.com/55-gallon-blemish-barrel-new-open-head-top.html

[delmo]

I can get blue hdpe 55 gallon barrels all the time. I have an extra one in my garage right now, but I imagine these are a pain to ship. Someone local want it?

[ceslane13]

How much and where in south florida are you located ?

[lnevo]

What's inside your brutes? http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/09/afcafa45c98035cf9fa76fd40a2d7c36.jpg

[don_chuwish]

Silly question maybe, but I'm trying to keep the plumbing simple so I have to ask. My setup will be stacked, a 55G Roto-Mold above a 35G Brute. The Brute itself will be 20" off the floor.
I have a Panworld 40PX for circulating/mixing in the Brute. But because of the elevation, I can probably get away with gravity feed to the sump for WC time. I'll have a valve in the recirculation loop that I can turn off, then another to redirect the flow to the sump.
So the question is, with the pump switched off, am I correct to assume that water will flow through it if I open a valve? It'd be nice to just have a valve at the end of the hose and open it without having to turn on the pump.

Thanks!
-D

[makers marc]

I have a question for all of you. I have a 75g SPS dominated tank and still lug around five 5 gallon jugs to the LFS to get RO water every 2 weeks. I don't mind too much, plus I use this as a chance to shop lol.

The main reason I haven't setup an auto water change system is limited space for an RO and saltwater mixing station. I read of people who do small water changes daily on their system, perhaps 2-3 gallons for a 75g. But, it looks like everyone uses large footprint brute trash cans or containers that need a storage room to hide the ugliness.

That being said, if I am only doing a 2-3 gallon water change I wondered why I can't just use 2 small 3 gallon containers for the mixing station and keep it under my stand? Has anyone done this and if not, is the only reason because you need to fit a powerhead to mix the saltwater in?

In a nutshell, I am wondering what is the smallest footprint automatic water change/saltwater mixing station y'all have seen?

[zachts]

Silly question maybe, but I'm trying to keep the plumbing simple so I have to ask. My setup will be stacked, a 55G Roto-Mold above a 35G Brute. The Brute itself will be 20" off the floor.
I have a Panworld 40PX for circulating/mixing in the Brute. But because of the elevation, I can probably get away with gravity feed to the sump for WC time. I'll have a valve in the recirculation loop that I can turn off, then another to redirect the flow to the sump.
So the question is, with the pump switched off, am I correct to assume that water will flow through it if I open a valve? It'd be nice to just have a valve at the end of the hose and open it without having to turn on the pump.

Thanks!
-D

You should 'T' off the loop before the pump intake for gravity draining to the sump. Generally it is not good to let water flow thu a pump with out the pump powered, it can damage some models, not sure specifically on the pan world but generally not recommended.

[zachts]

I have a question for all of you. I have a 75g SPS dominated tank and still lug around five 5 gallon jugs to the LFS to get RO water every 2 weeks. I don't mind too much, plus I use this as a chance to shop lol.

The main reason I haven't setup an auto water change system is limited space for an RO and saltwater mixing station. I read of people who do small water changes daily on their system, perhaps 2-3 gallons for a 75g. But, it looks like everyone uses large footprint brute trash cans or containers that need a storage room to hide the ugliness.

That being said, if I am only doing a 2-3 gallon water change I wondered why I can't just use 2 small 3 gallon containers for the mixing station and keep it under my stand? Has anyone done this and if not, is the only reason because you need to fit a powerhead to mix the saltwater in?

In a nutshell, I am wondering what is the smallest footprint automatic water change/saltwater mixing station y'all have seen?
Someone posted a very small one way back, maybe 3-5gal using I think it was dog food containers.

No size limitation for making it work, just have to fit in all the needed components.

[40gal]

Just returned home today to find my garage flooded. No big deal, but the cord form my submerged mag-drive pump bumped up against my manual float valve so the RO/DI never shutoff.

I currently have it just running through the top of my brute container with the lid sort of locking it in place. Does anyone make any sort of bulkhead fitting that I could run the power cord through that is watertight? I had it plumbed externally previously, but had slow leaking issues and not sure I want to go that route again.

[don_chuwish]

You should 'T' off the loop before the pump intake for gravity draining to the sump. Generally it is not good to let water flow thu a pump with out the pump powered, it can damage some models, not sure specifically on the pan world but generally not recommended.

Thanks!

[soulpatch]

Well the platform for the water station was built but tonight I added in the pump and lines for the water change. So the pump can suck water into the container from my brute which will be going on the bottom of the stand once I move my RODI system which should happen this weekend sometime. The pump will also mix inside the container and pump water back into my tank.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/soulpatch/20160115_222252_zpsambm1ghr.jpg~original (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/soulpatch/media/20160115_222252_zpsambm1ghr.jpg.html)

So in the pic above you can see my valves. TO pull water up from the brute that will be underneath I simply plug that line with the banjo camber outlet into the outlet at the bottom where the hose is currently plugged in. I prime the pump and then turn it on.

To suck water out of the tank I leave the valve on the bulkhead closed and swap out the top union with the one shown in the third pic below which will be connected to a hose line. That will go to my drain.

I simply flip the camber and turn the two bottom valves to refill the tank.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/soulpatch/20160115_222259_zpsdgce3cf8.jpg~original (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/soulpatch/media/20160115_222259_zpsdgce3cf8.jpg.html)

Close up of the camber unions. These are awesome and witht he flip of those two handles I have water tight seal.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/soulpatch/20160115_222304_zpswsxjphhz.jpg~original (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/soulpatch/media/20160115_222304_zpswsxjphhz.jpg.html)

This shows the other conection I will swap in when doing water changes.


I wanted the top to be union so I can put the lid on my holding tank. I have yet to decide if I will tap the lid to run the 1" pvc through it or leave it as is and only drill holes in the lid for a heater and power head.

The whole thing is on wheels that support well over the weight this will ever be. I will be putting a power strip on the underside to plug the pump, heater, and powerhead into. I might get fancy and put a small dj unit on it to individually control each plug but that will be in the future as money is going elsewhere right now.

[dpulve]

Damn there is a lot of info and different setups in this thread I have a couple NOOB questions just to ensure that I get mine right and understand.

1. The reason for two containers is one for RO/DI water that you keep full then pump/gravity over to salt container.

2. You plumb up pump to recirculate water in salt container and to also possible send to tank. Basic plump job to pull from bottom and discharge thru top of container to mix.

3. Your RO/DI container you can create to be an ATO type system so that your RO/DI automatically shuts off.

Not to difficult but I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something before I start making mine.

[UFO8MyCow]

Here is mine. It is 2 35 gallon leg tanks. The top one is rodi and is automatically filled with the apex and the bottom one is NSW that is also hooked up to the apex. With a heater and powerhead in the lower tank to mix NSW. I have a 180 gph diaphragm pump to move the nsw to the main display upstairs.

[makers marc]

Im doing some research on an autowater change system before I upgrade to an 8 foot 240 gallon in 6 months. This thread is great, as I get to see what works for other people. The main reason I haven't upgraded is I haven't figured out how to integrate an autowater change system, or frankly any method that prevents me from lugging 5 gallon buckets back and forth. These are my main obstacles, please chime in if you can.

Obstacle #1: Lack of Space for storage/mixing tanks, no floor drain for wastewater
-My tank is located in our formal dining room and does not have space for storage containers in that room. There also is no floor drain. Tank is against an outside perimeter wall which is 20 feet above my backyard lawn (inverted floorplan). Garage is too far away and since there's no attic above, I don't know how id pump to/from the garage anyway. The room below the tank is the master bathroom.

Option#1 Place the storage containers and RODI unit outside, directly below the tank in the backyard right by the A/C condenser. Would this work in TX heat? What happens during freezes?

Option#2: Find a small footprint setup and put it under the stand. Maybe do a 2% change daily, so all I need are 2 5 gallon buckets underneath?

Option#3: Forget water changes and find a mentor who runs a SPS tank with no changes


Any other suggestions y'all can think of? How expensive is it for a plumber to come in and install a water line to the formal dining room, and install a floor drain that maybe leads to my master bathroom below?

[UFO8MyCow]

You could put the ro/di unit and a dual head Masterflex pump under the bathroom sink and a little space to hold a 20 gallon tank that you can use for saltwater and maybe a small tank for top off water
You would need to run a couple small 3/8 and quarter inch water lines

You could use an in the wall drill bit like this. they make an extension they can get you another four feet. Then you would just have to install some low voltage old work boxes and blank cover plates
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007E76CAO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000FCGT12&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0QZ7DQ9CG73095FYA4VQ

[makers marc]

Hmm.. I need to brush up on some jargon first. But essentially what youre suggesting is to store everything 20 feet below in my master bathroom. Drill through the wall to run the 3/8 lines to/from the tank which I get. But whats the old voltage work boxes and blank cover for? Is this to plug a pump into it so I can pump water upstairs to the DT, 20 feet above? Is it a DIY project to install a drain line from upstairs to the sink below?

[UFO8MyCow]

The low voltage old work box is so that you can put a hole in the wall to drill through and cover it up easily

As for the drain, that is what on of the pump heads is for you will run a 3/8 line back to bathroom and tap into the drain under the sink

[lnevo]

Mixing station 3.0

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/4bdbe52df0756aaa93cf4ce00044014c.jpg

Both sides can be used for mixing saltwater. I added a float valve to the 5g bucket so I could make pure water for when I need some. The other two will be going back and forth between new salt water being mixed and ready salt water for the auto water changer.

I have ReefAngel Water Level sensors measuring the capacity in each one. It also controls a solenoid to flush the RO membrane daily. The RO also feeds a solenoid which refills my gravity fed ATO reservoir upstairs.

RO filter and the auto water change pump has also been wall mounted. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/aa3eb783ff11307550964a7fe0ec3b36.jpg

[40gal]

Im doing some research on an autowater change system before I upgrade to an 8 foot 240 gallon in 6 months. This thread is great, as I get to see what works for other people. The main reason I haven't upgraded is I haven't figured out how to integrate an autowater change system, or frankly any method that prevents me from lugging 5 gallon buckets back and forth. These are my main obstacles, please chime in if you can.

Obstacle #1: Lack of Space for storage/mixing tanks, no floor drain for wastewater
-My tank is located in our formal dining room and does not have space for storage containers in that room. There also is no floor drain. Tank is against an outside perimeter wall which is 20 feet above my backyard lawn (inverted floorplan). Garage is too far away and since there's no attic above, I don't know how id pump to/from the garage anyway. The room below the tank is the master bathroom.

Option#1 Place the storage containers and RODI unit outside, directly below the tank in the backyard right by the A/C condenser. Would this work in TX heat? What happens during freezes?

Option#2: Find a small footprint setup and put it under the stand. Maybe do a 2% change daily, so all I need are 2 5 gallon buckets underneath?

Option#3: Forget water changes and find a mentor who runs a SPS tank with no changes


Any other suggestions y'all can think of? How expensive is it for a plumber to come in and install a water line to the formal dining room, and install a floor drain that maybe leads to my master bathroom below?

This may help some: Auto/Continuous Water Change (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2531424)

[40gal]

Mixing station 3.0

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/4bdbe52df0756aaa93cf4ce00044014c.jpg

Both sides can be used for mixing saltwater. I added a float valve to the 5g bucket so I could make pure water for when I need some. The other two will be going back and forth between new salt water being mixed and ready salt water for the auto water changer.

I have ReefAngel Water Level sensors measuring the capacity in each one. It also controls a solenoid to flush the RO membrane daily. The RO also feeds a solenoid which refills my gravity fed ATO reservoir upstairs.

RO filter and the auto water change pump has also been wall mounted. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/aa3eb783ff11307550964a7fe0ec3b36.jpg

What electronics are you using there? I'm in the process of programming an arduino-based controller for my RO/DI solenoids, as it will give me more granular control over what my Apex does since I'm out of relay outlets on my second EB8.

[don_chuwish]

Work in progress. The fittings on the Roto-Mold are from the previous owner, who used it to mix Kalk. I'll just plug them.
Haven't even started on plumbing.
The stand needs painting before I fully attach it to the wall, this is just a test fit.
Buckets fit neatly under it on the floor.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/63ee0550eea791223967691bf92578df.jpg

[zachts]

Mixing station 3.0

RO filter and the auto water change pump has also been wall mounted. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160120/aa3eb783ff11307550964a7fe0ec3b36.jpg

Ahh, that pump looks mighty familiar.......still can't believe what a great find those were!

[lnevo]

What electronics are you using there? I'm in the process of programming an arduino-based controller for my RO/DI solenoids, as it will give me more granular control over what my Apex does since I'm out of relay outlets on my second EB8.


It's a ReefAngel prototype I'm testing. The rat's nest is a circuit to turn on/off the solenoid and auto water change pump sharing one power supply. I wasn't initially going to need the transformers for each relay either but I blew out the dimming ports when I was testing things out.

Ahh, that pump looks mighty familiar.......still can't believe what a great find those were!


It's been live since last night! Working great so far. It's changed out a few gallons so far. Best $35 I ever spent, even though the cost of the project turned into much much more...

[UFO8MyCow]

Where did you find that pumpbfor $35?

[lnevo]

eBay. Zachts found them if I recall correctly. Look up the automatic water change thread.

[zachts]

Where did you find that pumpbfor $35?

I found them on Ebay and spread the word after snagging a few for myself, there were like 50 or more of them, but they went fast and the seller quickly raised the price tag to over $100 once they realized what they had :lolspin: In hind sight I wish I would have bought them all and resold them at a a meager markup to share the love with RC (the thread Inevo mentioned above was the insparation for me to spend the time scouring the web for them in the first place)

[Fishbulb2]

Ok this is a little different. Rather than just showing my station, I actually need help setting it up! So recommendations are welcome. This is what I have so far.

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af151/qgaudry/IMG_2912%202.jpg~original (http://s1003.photobucket.com/user/qgaudry/media/IMG_2912%202.jpg.html)


These are my thoughts and concerns. I notice everyone builds a wooden stand to elevate the water containers off of the floor. But you'll notice that to the right of my tanks, there is the panel box for the house electricity. If I raise the water tanks up at all, I won't be able to open the doors without draining and moving the system. Can I just leave everything on the floor?

Next is, I'm not sure what pump to use to mix. I have three pumps on hand. These are a mag 18, A QuietOne 3000, and a SRO Water Blaster 5000. Which would you use. I like the idea of using the more powerful Mag 18, but I've heard they leak when run externally. If I drop it into the mixing station, how would I get the power cord to exit? I would think that this would leave an opening for air to get in and help with evaporation. These tanks will hold 1 months worth of mix.


I notice most people have the pump draw in water from the bottom of the mixing station and they send water back up to the top. Wouldn't we get more efficient mixing if we actively mix and stir the salt by having the water return to the bottom of the mixing station?

Last silly question. I was surprised these tanks didn't have gallon marks on it. I don't want to fill 50 1 gallon just of water. Is there a better way to guess where the 50g mark would be. (These are 55g barrels).

Thanks guys! I am really excited to get this up and running.

FB

[lnevo]

Since they are square and even on the way up you can measure the height and knowing the volume you can calculate inches per gallon to make the marks.

The pump water returning on top is most efficient in my mind but you could go either way. People elevate it so they could use gravity to drain water when needed. You could always have an outlet from the pump drain at a convenient height.

[UFO8MyCow]

looks like the spec sheet for those tanks says .375" or 3/8" per gallon

http://www.tank-depot.com/Drawings%2fAce%2fSP0055-MM.pdf

You could leave the left tank on the ground and build a stand for the nsw on the right. that way you could easily put a bucket under it and fill it from the bulkhead

You could also add another bulkhead and a drum tap to the RODI container partway up.

[Fishbulb2]

Thanks UFO,

How very frustrating. You are correct that that is exactly what I ordered and the same vendor that I ordered it from. The picture and description both indicate it should have had gallon indicators on it, but sure enough, what they sent me doesn't. I looked at the spec sheet but I think .375" is the size of the gallon indicators, or the size of the numbers. I don't think it's actually .375 inches per gallon. Otherwise, for 50 gallons that would only be about 19" and the tank is about 40" tall.

Why can't they just send what I ordered? Arg. The shipping on these isn't cheap either.

FB

[Want2BS8ed]

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/soulpatch/20160115_222259_zpsdgce3cf8.jpg~original (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/soulpatch/media/20160115_222259_zpsdgce3cf8.jpg.html)



Love the Banjo cam lock disconnects. Used them on my mixing station as well.

If anyone is interested, found mine at US Plastics.

M

[don_chuwish]

Work in progress. The fittings on the Roto-Mold are from the previous owner, who used it to mix Kalk. I'll just plug them.
Haven't even started on plumbing.
The stand needs painting before I fully attach it to the wall, this is just a test fit.
Buckets fit neatly under it on the floor.


And FINALLY I'm making RO/DI water with this thing.

I'm so happy to finally have a stationary setup. No bucket hauling, no RO line unrolling and rolling - just on or off.

The RO container already had a bulkhead at the very top from the previous owner. So I decided to use it as an emergency overflow. I added a 45 degree elbow inside to make it a little higher inside.

Both the emergency overflow line and the RO waste water line go through the wall and into the crawlspace of the house, then out one of the foundation vents and into the french drain. In summer I'll probably tap the waste line for watering plants or something.

Since the valve in the wall is hard to reach behind the Brute, I added an inline valve on the supply. That and the diverter for startup water are nicely available out front. Also nice to have the TDS meter at eye level finally.

Hardest part of all this was getting into the crawl space to drill up through the sill plate into that wall cavity, then fishing out the two lines. I'm gonna be sore tomorrow.

Thanks to all who have posted so many great ideas here!

Next up is plumbing the mixing container. I'm sure a few more trips to the hardware store will be in order.

[woodnaquanut]

And FINALLY I'm making RO/DI water with this thing.


From the pics I'm not sure where it is but in a close up of clear tubing going into an elbow it looks like a brass insert fitting. If that's on either the SW or RO/DI water, it would be wise to change that to plastic. If it's on the house supply to the RO/DI it will be fine.

[don_chuwish]

I knew someone would ask about that! It's just the emergency overflow - in case the float switch fails somehow.

[DarthReefer27]

Ok this is a little different. Rather than just showing my station, I actually need help setting it up! So recommendations are welcome. This is what I have so far.

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af151/qgaudry/IMG_2912%202.jpg~original (http://s1003.photobucket.com/user/qgaudry/media/IMG_2912%202.jpg.html)


These are my thoughts and concerns. I notice everyone builds a wooden stand to elevate the water containers off of the floor. But you'll notice that to the right of my tanks, there is the panel box for the house electricity. If I raise the water tanks up at all, I won't be able to open the doors without draining and moving the system. Can I just leave everything on the floor?

Next is, I'm not sure what pump to use to mix. I have three pumps on hand. These are a mag 18, A QuietOne 3000, and a SRO Water Blaster 5000. Which would you use. I like the idea of using the more powerful Mag 18, but I've heard they leak when run externally. If I drop it into the mixing station, how would I get the power cord to exit? I would think that this would leave an opening for air to get in and help with evaporation. These tanks will hold 1 months worth of mix.


I notice most people have the pump draw in water from the bottom of the mixing station and they send water back up to the top. Wouldn't we get more efficient mixing if we actively mix and stir the salt by having the water return to the bottom of the mixing station?

Last silly question. I was surprised these tanks didn't have gallon marks on it. I don't want to fill 50 1 gallon just of water. Is there a better way to guess where the 50g mark would be. (These are 55g barrels).

Thanks guys! I am really excited to get this up and running.

FB

I see you are in MD. where did you get the storage tanks from. or did you just order them online and pay the unreal shipping costs?

[lnevo]

I knew someone would ask about that! It's just the emergency overflow - in case the float switch fails somehow.


Why is there a plastic hose barb and then the brass one?

[woodnaquanut]

Ok this is a little different. Rather than just showing my station, I actually need help setting it up! So recommendations are welcome.

These are my thoughts and concerns. I notice everyone builds a wooden stand to elevate the water containers off of the floor. But you'll notice that to the right of my tanks, there is the panel box for the house electricity. If I raise the water tanks up at all, I won't be able to open the doors without draining and moving the system. Can I just leave everything on the floor?

Next is, I'm not sure what pump to use to mix. I have three pumps on hand. These are a mag 18, A QuietOne 3000, and a SRO Water Blaster 5000. Which would you use. I like the idea of using the more powerful Mag 18, but I've heard they leak when run externally. If I drop it into the mixing station, how would I get the power cord to exit? I would think that this would leave an opening for air to get in and help with evaporation. These tanks will hold 1 months worth of mix.


I notice most people have the pump draw in water from the bottom of the mixing station and they send water back up to the top. Wouldn't we get more efficient mixing if we actively mix and stir the salt by having the water return to the bottom of the mixing station?

Last silly question. I was surprised these tanks didn't have gallon marks on it. I don't want to fill 50 1 gallon just of water. Is there a better way to guess where the 50g mark would be. (These are 55g barrels).

Thanks guys! I am really excited to get this up and running.

FB

Can you stack them?

If you elevate them you can draw water via gravity. On the floor you'll have to use a pump.

If you draw from the top, the tank would either have to be full to pump or have an internal pipe to the bottom.

For volume you could measure. It should be about 90% of the inside height. Mix up a batch and adjust as needed. I like to weigh salt. Easy to be repeatable.

[don_chuwish]

Why is there a plastic hose barb and then the brass one?


Couldn't find something at the store to convert from the 3/4 bulkhead down to the 1/4 ID tubing directly. So the first elbow goes 3/4 to 1/2, then the threaded brass end fits 1/2 snugly enough to work with a hose clamp. I don't expect it to ever even get wet so "good enough".

[Fishbulb2]

I see you are in MD. where did you get the storage tanks from. or did you just order them online and pay the unreal shipping costs?

Unfortunately, the latter. :sad2:

[Fishbulb2]

Can you stack them?

If you elevate them you can draw water via gravity. On the floor you'll have to use a pump.

If you draw from the top, the tank would either have to be full to pump or have an internal pipe to the bottom.

For volume you could measure. It should be about 90% of the inside height. Mix up a batch and adjust as needed. I like to weigh salt. Easy to be repeatable.

Thanks for the tip. I'm sure I don't have the ceiling height to stack them, so I'm currently just planning on going with the Water Blaster for circulation. I'll figure out the 50 gallon mark, but it would have been nice to not have to. I really wanted to get a container at least 50 gallons so that I don't have to measure any salt. I'll just dump in whole 50 gallon bags and have salt for the month. The goal is to use automatic water changes through my Apex DOS. Then each month just fill and dump in a new bag.

Now I just need to figure out how to get this RO tubing from the basement to the tank upstairs!

FB

[UFO8MyCow]

You can use a flex drill bit kit. They are over 4' long and you can get a 4' extension.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/cgstrong2000/Mobile%20Uploads/fa129de4-a4db-4778-baac-ae58eda23c0d_1000.jpg~original (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/cgstrong2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/fa129de4-a4db-4778-baac-ae58eda23c0d_1000.jpg.html)

[Fishbulb2]

You can use a flex drill bit kit. They are over 4' long and you can get a 4' extension.

Wow! Mind = blown! I've never seen such a thing. Thanks a lot for the link.

I've never had such a hard time on a project such as this. Our walls are also all lathe and plaster. So going through the wall may not be trivial either. Regardless, thanks for the info. I'm definitely going to look into it and see if I can make it work.

Cheers!
FB

[lnevo]

I went through the floor for mine and into the basement ceiling. It was crazy how far the basement wall comes out compared to the upstairs. Had to open the basement ceiling a bit to grab the lines and pull them through.

[Fishbulb2]

I went through the floor for mine and into the basement ceiling. It was crazy how far the basement wall comes out compared to the upstairs. Had to open the basement ceiling a bit to grab the lines and pull them through.

Hi Inevo,

That's interesting. I'm having a hard time gauging exactly how the wall lines up as well in my house. I tried to go from the basement up to place the lines next to a cross beam. My wife said it sounded like it was coming up several feet out from the upstairs wall. I couldn't tell if it was just the resonance or what. Our basement ceiling is finished as well, so I have to minimize the damage. This is what has been holding up my whole build. I have a decent line of channel run from the mixing tanks to near underneath the aquarium. But I'm starting to have my doubts about how whether the upstairs wall is really flush with the basement one.

FB

[lnevo]

I was pretty lucky in that my basement is half finished and I have the joists open on one side. I would definitely be careful because the cavity under the upstairs wall was filled with electrical (the metal type). The hole in the ceiling was covered by a blank wall plate and the way the lighting is you can't even seen it. I may reuse it later for speaker wires :)

[Fishbulb2]

Thanks for the tip. I might have a professional come look at it first to get an opinion. Otherwise, I think I'll likely open up the ceiling the patch it myself later. The one thing I have learned is that patching up drywall is pretty easy.

[don_chuwish]

Got the mixing circuit put together tonight. I really hate purple primer but none of the local hardware stores had clear.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160129/2b5a1918c5799da9b4e970b2182977ca.jpg

Water test tomorrow!

[Member No. 1]

Got the mixing circuit put together tonight. I really hate purple primer but none of the local hardware stores had clear.
Water test tomorrow!

If the PVC is new and clean, no "primer" is needed. I never use it, never had a leak. All the primer does is remove surface contaminates - dirt/oils/etc.

[Redman88]

If the PVC is new and clean, no "primer" is needed. I never use it, never had a leak. All the primer does is remove surface contaminates - dirt/oils/etc.


No it presoftens the pipe so the glue holds better. But for fish tank pressures I don't primer either.

[don_chuwish]

If the PVC is new and clean, no "primer" is needed. I never use it, never had a leak. All the primer does is remove surface contaminates - dirt/oils/etc.


It's an old argument that even the pros still haggle over. I considered just cleaning with acetone and then gluing, but then decided the primer was less offensive than having to fix something later. I managed to keep it reasonably tidy.

[soulpatch]

Yeah I hate the purple primer as well and my store never has clear when I look. That said I am in the better safe then sorry camp...

[don_chuwish]

Clear primer ordered from Amazon.

[soulpatch]

HA HA Amazon. I seriously need a PW that only my wife knows before I can go on their site. With the new tank coming online I have boxes daily from BRS, Amazon, or Marine Depot on my porch...

[Nick92515]

Never seen a drill bit like that, that's epic

[Scffvariable]

No it presoftens the pipe so the glue holds better. But for fish tank pressures I don't primer either.

New building code eliminates the need for using primer on pipe less then 4" or 6' IIRC

[DarthReefer27]

HA HA Amazon. I seriously need a PW that only my wife knows before I can go on their site. With the new tank coming online I have boxes daily from BRS, Amazon, or Marine Depot on my porch...

me too. between BRS, Amazon, I have spent probably $3K on equipment for my new 120g that will be here in 2 days! good thing she doesn't see this forum!:worried:

then again, she said as long as I didn't spend more than $5K, she didn't want to know how much I am spending. I will just be sure to keep getting fish and corals that she enjoys watching like my diamond watchman goby!

[Chasmodes]

Anyone here in Maryland know of a local place i can buy some storage tanks?

This might be close to you, and cheap at $35 each.

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/for/5383878487.html

Search CL for "rain barrels".

Also Tractor Supply has them too, some in stock but you'd have to call to see what they have:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/catalog/farm-ranch/storage-tanks/leg-style-tanks

There are stores in Glen Burnie and Aberdeen

I need some too...I like the ones at Tractor Supply, but the cheap blue barrels are tough to beat price wise, and should work fine. There is a guy near me that sells them too pretty cheap... $20! :eek1:

[edward1096]

very cool setups!

[don_chuwish]

"Woods 32555 Weatherproof Outdoor Outlet Wireless Remote Control Converter Kit"
Perfect solution - turn the pump on or off when I'm 50' away at the tank holding the hose.

[don_chuwish]

So I had originally ordered 3/4" ID, 1" OD clear vinyl tubing to use as hose from the mixing tank to the sump. But it's just too damn chunky - I need to run 50 feet and the coil is just too big to manage. So I knocked it down to 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD instead. Much cheaper, less bulk.
Anyone need about 95' of 3/4"? ;-)

[Kaidman]

How much?

[don_chuwish]

How much?

The remote control outlet?
amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q9EFUK

$9.95 and Prime.

[jdantunes]

@ don_chuwish.

I'm planning a similar mixing station with the use of hose instead of a bucket to transport the water to the sump. I looked at the same on/off RC switch. How do you like it?

Also wanted to ask you, why are you using clear vinil tubing and not using something more mainstream like a drinking water hose? I'm planing to use a drinking water hose and replace the brass threaded connections with quick connect plastic fittings.

[don_chuwish]

Funny you mention the drinking water hose. After I got the 3/4" I found a 50' drinking water hose on Amazon for much less money.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RNR9QY

Thought it would work well if, like you say, just cut off the metal ends and replace with plastic. But then I realized the "bulk" problem of the 3/4" and thought that even 5/8" drinking hose would be too bulky for me. So the 1/2" vinyl was the choice. The spot that I want to hang it has limited space.

The drinking hose should certainly be easier to manage in terms of coiling & uncoiling. It was a borderline choice for me.

The switch is pretty great. I walked around the house testing the range and it's really quite good. Certainly enough for my needs.

Here's some quick disconnect plastic fittings I found too:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=102904

Smallest is 3/4" but that matches my bulkheads anyway. Won't work with the 5/8" drinking hose though, another reason I didn't go that route. i'll adapt down to 1/2" with a barbed coupling.

[jdantunes]

Alright if your have a limited space for it, don't look around any further, cause drinking water hoses are bulky.

I'm gonna use one of them. But the quick connect that I'll use are the ones that you can find in the gardening department of any big box home improvement store.

[rjjr1963]

I'm plumbing my salt water station this weekend. I've seen some set up's that have the recirculating pump set up with a return to the RO/DI tank. What is the purpose of doing it that way?

Also, how long can you let water sit in the tanks without going bad?

Thanks.

[Redman88]

I'm plumbing my salt water station this weekend. I've seen some set up's that have the recirculating pump set up with a return to the RO/DI tank. What is the purpose of doing it that way?


If to mix large batches of water quickly.

[shifty51008]

Also, how long can you let water sit in the tanks without going bad?

Thanks.

rodi water can be stored forever, SW I try to use within a month of makeing it. always a good idea to check the sw parameters and adjust just before useing it though.

[Fishbulb2]

Quick question for everyone. I am about to glue my plumbing. I got the classic red PVC ball valves from Home Depot, and they are just so tight to turn. Is there any way to loosen them or should I ditch them and got with something better. Could I put silicone grease in there or is that a bad idea?

FB

[rjjr1963]

Quick question for everyone. I am about to glue my plumbing. I got the classic red PVC ball valves from Home Depot, and they are just so tight to turn. Is there any way to loosen them or should I ditch them and got with something better. Could I put silicone grease in there or is that a bad idea?

FB


I bought the schedule 80 union ball valves with the larger handles and they turn with very little force. They were only about $7 each and well worth the extra money.

http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/valves/pvc-ball-valves/true-union-ball-valve.html

[shifty51008]

Quick question for everyone. I am about to glue my plumbing. I got the classic red PVC ball valves from Home Depot, and they are just so tight to turn. Is there any way to loosen them or should I ditch them and got with something better. Could I put silicone grease in there or is that a bad idea?

FB

no way to adjust them, they are tight and i have broken the handles off a few of them. check out cepex brand valves, you can adjust them and work great but are more spendy.

[Fishbulb2]

OK, sounds like it's worth spending the extra money on better valves. I always see the red home depot valves in people's posts, so I thought they might loosen up over time. As tight as they are now, I find them useless. I think I'll eventually break my plumbing with the strength needed to turn them. I'll just order Spears valves or Cepex.

Thanks,
FB

[don_chuwish]

I went through the entire bin at Lowes, discarding at least 80% of the valves as either too tight or too sloppy before finding the few I liked. I wouldn't put these on the tank but figured they were ok for the mixing station. Time will tell. PVCFittingsonline is nice - good site organization, easy to find things and be sure of what you're getting. They don't offer free shipping but that's reflected in their low pricing. I ordered some of the adjustable sch80 ball valves from them (not Cepex) but don't have them in hand yet.

[_E_]

I used some of the sch40 true union valves from my local Lowes. They're much cheaper than the Cepex, but still have adjustable internals. I believe the brand was American Valve.

[_Snuffles]

I used some of the sch40 true union valves from my local Lowes. They're much cheaper than the Cepex, but still have adjustable internals. I believe the brand was American Valve.

you're correct, i use these too.

[rjjr1963]

WIP on my saltwater station.

My stand is done and I only mis-cut one board. The plumbing is run through the ceiling. This was the toughest part and I got bloody knuckles to prove it, lol. Finally the RO/DI unit is mounted and two 20 AMP electrical circuits have been wired up. The station is in a spare bedroom and the RO/DI unit is in a utility room behind the tank. Today is plumbing day and if all goes well I'll be filling water tanks.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/1_zpsunbsxy8d.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/1_zpsunbsxy8d.jpg.html)


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg.html)


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/3_zpscvqkllyo.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/3_zpscvqkllyo.jpg.html)

[rjjr1963]

Everything is plumbed and I'm happy with the results. One little screw up. I ordered the wrong size uniseal. Should be here early this week and we will have WATER! lol


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/4_zpsguvn0lsm.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/4_zpsguvn0lsm.jpg.html)

[don_chuwish]

Very tidy! I'm crazy jealous of all that space!

[rjjr1963]

No kids, that helps tremendously.

[rjjr1963]

Do I need to clean my water tanks before I use them?

[soulpatch]

I ran some vinegar water through mine just to get any oil or shipping films off of them. Drained, dried out, and started to use as normal.

[don_chuwish]

I was gonna come up with some typically reefer overblown 5 stage cleaning process that you absolutely MUST do over a 4 week period or all your livestock will die slow agonizing deaths... but I'm just too tired for that level of creativity.

[rjjr1963]

lol

[zachts]

[QUOTE=rjjr1963;24311498]WIP on my saltwater station.

My stand is done and I only mis-cut one board. The plumbing is run through the ceiling. This was the toughest part and I got bloody knuckles to prove it, lol. Finally the RO/DI unit is mounted and two 20 AMP electrical circuits have been wired up. The station is in a spare bedroom and the RO/DI unit is in a utility room behind the tank. Today is plumbing day and if all goes well I'll be filling water tanks.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg.html)

One structural comment:
Before you get water in there, I would add additional verticals at the four corners, 4 pocket screws supporting each corner is asking for a failure down the road, that's a heck of a lot of weight for 4 screws to support, assuming they never get wet and start to rust out..........

Not saying it necessarily will fail just it could and that's a lot of water.

An additional front to back horizontal on the top might not be bad either seeing how you have the containers positioned in order to prevent the plywood from sagging over time from the weight and as it gets wet, and it will. Which could cause the tanks to lean forward enough to break your plumbing. I'm full of doom and gloom tonight :lolspin:

[rjjr1963]

I knew someone would rain on my parade. :hmm5:


40 gallons tanks so maybe some additional reinforce is needed.

[zachts]

:D sorry to be the buzz kill......was just running the math and the average screw can support around 50lbs give or take before breaking........granted that's going to be distributed to more than just the four screws in the back corners but still thats around 333lbs of water in each tank..........cutting it rather close, too close for comfort even if over half the weight gets taken up by other points, which it probably does, but I'm not an engineer.......screws will rust especially fast near salt water unless you sprung for heavy 316 grade stainless......rather than deck screws or the like.

I'd consider skinning the back and sides while your at it also, increases the rigidity and stability of the stand many times over. you don't wan't it to be wobbly with tall tanks like that, granted no kids around but........

[don_chuwish]

Yeah it doesn't have to be much though - rip some 2x4s in half and attach to the other vertical, snugged up tight to the cross piece.

[rjjr1963]

I used glue when I assembled it so that's going to help some but the load at the two back corners could overwhelm the 4 screws. Easy enough to put some support in there for peace of mind.

[Mrs. Music]

I used glue when I assembled it so that's going to help some but the load at the two back corners could overwhelm the 4 screws. Easy enough to put some support in there for peace of mind.

Yep, easy peasy addition at this point. Looks fantastic!

[soulpatch]

I knew someone would rain on my parade. :hmm5:


40 gallons tanks so maybe some additional reinforce is needed.

The bigger issue is that the vertical pieces are not carrying the weight. Typically we put the top frame on top of the vertical braces so that the weight is easily transferred down and carried by the wood. The way you have done it is to carry the weight by the glue and screws except in the center where you do carry it on the vertical brace.

I would simply add 2 vertical braces on the sides in the framing to carry the weight.

[DarthReefer27]

WIP on my saltwater station.

My stand is done and I only mis-cut one board. The plumbing is run through the ceiling. This was the toughest part and I got bloody knuckles to prove it, lol. Finally the RO/DI unit is mounted and two 20 AMP electrical circuits have been wired up. The station is in a spare bedroom and the RO/DI unit is in a utility room behind the tank. Today is plumbing day and if all goes well I'll be filling water tanks.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/1_zpsunbsxy8d.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/1_zpsunbsxy8d.jpg.html)


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg.html)


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/3_zpscvqkllyo.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/3_zpscvqkllyo.jpg.html)

where did you get the containers?

[rjjr1963]

I got them here; http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/215/40-gallon-vertical-plastic-storage-tank-vt0040-18

Shipping on this size isn't bad. The next size up and the shipping skyrockets.

[rjjr1963]

I added a couple of vertical legs and added a second layer of plywood to help distribute the load more evenly. I've laid out the plumbing but wanted to post it first to see if there is anything I should change before I glue it up.


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/5_zpszutog4eo.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/5_zpszutog4eo.jpg.html)

[mnkykng77]

What pumps are people using for their stations? I need to pump water from my garage to my tank which is 30ft away and up about 8 steps. Are their any internal pumps that would work on only external ones my only real option for high GPH?

[rjjr1963]

What pumps are people using for their stations? I need to pump water from my garage to my tank which is 30ft away and up about 8 steps. Are their any internal pumps that would work on only external ones my only real option for high GPH?

It's an Iwaki 30. It doesn't put out a tremendous amount of GPH but it has very good head pressure rating. I also have to run about the same setup you have but it's only for water changes and it's just a 40 gallon tank. I hope to be testing this weekend.

[Fishbulb2]

Quick question for everyone. I am about to glue my plumbing. I got the classic red PVC ball valves from Home Depot, and they are just so tight to turn. Is there any way to loosen them or should I ditch them and got with something better. Could I put silicone grease in there or is that a bad idea?

FB

Well thanks for the tip everyone. I went with the CEPEX valves and talk about a night and day difference. I think some of the PVC runs are slightly pulling or pushing on the plumbing. Any tips for getting it just perfect? It seems like vinyl tubing would make that easier. Anyways, here it is!

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af151/qgaudry/IMG_3153.jpg~original

[mnkykng77]

It's an Iwaki 30. It doesn't put out a tremendous amount of GPH but it has very good head pressure rating. I also have to run about the same setup you have but it's only for water changes and it's just a 40 gallon tank. I hope to be testing this weekend.

Let me know how it goes.

[rjjr1963]

Let me know how it goes.


Everything is going well. Mixed up my first batch of saltwater last night and filled the QT today. Hopefully in about three weeks we can get our first fish. Iwaki pump is very quiet and powerful.

[rjjr1963]

Well thanks for the tip everyone. I went with the CEPEX valves and talk about a night and day difference. I think some of the PVC runs are slightly pulling or pushing on the plumbing. Any tips for getting it just perfect? It seems like vinyl tubing would make that easier. Anyways, here it is!


I put a small piece of braided vinyl tubing on the inlet and outlet of the pump to dampen vibration. You can move the pump around a little bit that way to help line things up.

[thewbell]

Here is mine. It is skinned now since the only space I have is outside. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160214/72e2ebeb9a023900e7dd160ae4cdece7.jpg
I used a mag 7 pump in the lower saltwater can and now have a hose hooked up to pump the water inside to the tank. Works great so far but I am looking for some larger tanks to replace the 32 gallon cans I have now.

[mnkykng77]

Everything is going well. Mixed up my first batch of saltwater last night and filled the QT today. Hopefully in about three weeks we can get our first fish. Iwaki pump is very quiet and powerful.

Nice! It didn't have any problems pumping the 30ft and up 5ft?

[rjjr1963]

Nice! It didn't have any problems pumping the 30ft and up 5ft?

Not at all. The wife got soaked the first time we tested it. lol

[don_chuwish]

Here is mine. It is skinned now since the only space I have is outside.
I used a mag 7 pump in the lower saltwater can and now have a hose hooked up to pump the water inside to the tank. Works great so far but I am looking for some larger tanks to replace the 32 gallon cans I have now.


Is that a steel stand? Nice.

[thewbell]

Is that a steel stand? Nice.


Yes, the stand is 2x2x.120 steel tubing. I also used some 2x.125 angle iron for the supports the top can is sitting on. I knew the stand would be outside and I only wanted to make it one time so I used some scrap steel I had from another project.

[don_chuwish]

Ah well yeah, when you've got the materials, tools and knowhow, why not? ;-)

[gobble]

How do you guys with sealed Norwesco type tanks get a heater cord into the tank? Use a gromet or something?

[soulpatch]

How do you guys with sealed Norwesco type tanks get a heater cord into the tank? Use a gromet or something?

I used a grommet on mine with some silicone to fully seal it in the grommet. I only cared about sealing for the tank with the salt water though. The RODI tank is not sealed where I have the cord for the submersed pump.

[UFO8MyCow]

I knotched mine around the hole for the pupe that drains the top tank into the bottom

[CoryWM]

So I'm considering setting up a mixing station like this outside so that I can auto water change a brine shrimp breeding vat. I'm worried about cold/hot water. I think the hot water can be dealt with by dripping it in slowly. I suppose cold could be dealt with that way too by a heater.

I'm wondering if it makes sense if the storage containers are going to be outside should they be black to take on heat? This will help me in the winter and maybe I shade them in the summer? Any ideas?

[zachts]

So I'm considering setting up a mixing station like this outside so that I can auto water change a brine shrimp breeding vat. I'm worried about cold/hot water. I think the hot water can be dealt with by dripping it in slowly. I suppose cold could be dealt with that way too by a heater.

I'm wondering if it makes sense if the storage containers are going to be outside should they be black to take on heat? This will help me in the winter and maybe I shade them in the summer? Any ideas?

Two methods typically used here:
for large water changes all at once (more than a few percent total water volume) you will need to equalize temperature of the new saltwater to the tank (vat).

the slow drip/continuous water change method would seem better suited to brine shrimp culture however and takes care of any worry about temp swings from the new saltwater.

Your second question is probably best answered if you start a build thread for your breading setup in order to keep this thread on topic. you'll get more responses that way. also let people know where you are in the world as that would factor into replies related to keeping cultures outdoors.

[fltekdiver]

I'll be adding my mixing station in my shed, which is 25' away from from fish tank inside my house, no vertical pumping, only through the window ( single Story ) and the tank is right their in the corner

I was told I may possibly need a mag24 pump

I use a Jebao DCT INT 6000 right now for my retrun pump on my SW tank, but my tank is only 65G , and it's running on 4, anything more it's to much current in the DT

I was thinking of removing the Jeabo, putting a Ehiem compact in the DT tank, and using the Jeabo for the pump to pump the water from the shed into the tank

You think this would work? Or should I just leave it alone, and buy a larger pump to do my water changes?

[Patrick Cox]

Question on making these mixing stations - how large should my mixing container be relative to my typical water change? (Salt Water Container.) The reason I ask is that today if I keep heated water too long in my current container, I will get a brown residue in the container. So I am thinking that I should only be making enough water for my current water change and then I should drain the container once I am finished. So, I don't think I want too large of a container. My typical water change is 5-6 gallons so I was looking at using 10 gallon brute containers. Thanks for your comments.

[40gal]

Question on making these mixing stations - how large should my mixing container be relative to my typical water change? (Salt Water Container.) The reason I ask is that today if I keep heated water too long in my current container, I will get a brown residue in the container. So I am thinking that I should only be making enough water for my current water change and then I should drain the container once I am finished. So, I don't think I want too large of a container. My typical water change is 5-6 gallons so I was looking at using 10 gallon brute containers. Thanks for your comments.



I think your plan is generally along the lines of what most do. The main concern is that in the event of an emergency you have enough water on-hand to do a larger water change. I would upsize it a little from what you typically use, but not too much.

10 gallons sounds about right to me, based on your usage.

[Patrick Cox]

[QUOTE=rjjr1963;24311498]WIP on my saltwater station.

My stand is done and I only mis-cut one board. The plumbing is run through the ceiling. This was the toughest part and I got bloody knuckles to prove it, lol. Finally the RO/DI unit is mounted and two 20 AMP electrical circuits have been wired up. The station is in a spare bedroom and the RO/DI unit is in a utility room behind the tank. Today is plumbing day and if all goes well I'll be filling water tanks.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s215/rjjrrjjr/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg~original (http://s153.photobucket.com/user/rjjrrjjr/media/2_zpsv9ypmdid.jpg.html)

One structural comment:
Before you get water in there, I would add additional verticals at the four corners, 4 pocket screws supporting each corner is asking for a failure down the road, that's a heck of a lot of weight for 4 screws to support, assuming they never get wet and start to rust out..........

Not saying it necessarily will fail just it could and that's a lot of water.

An additional front to back horizontal on the top might not be bad either seeing how you have the containers positioned in order to prevent the plywood from sagging over time from the weight and as it gets wet, and it will. Which could cause the tanks to lean forward enough to break your plumbing. I'm full of doom and gloom tonight :lolspin:

Hi,
I am building a vertical mixing stand to hold two 16 gallon containers. Each will weigh about 145 pounds full. Would pocket hole joints be strong enough for that? And would I use 2x4s?

Here are my rough plans...

http://www.pcoxphoto.com/100G-Aquarium/i-GSPHJ6P/0/XL/Salt%20Water%20Mixing%20Stand-XL.jpg

Thanks!

[rjjr1963]

Yes, that would work fine with 2x4's and pocket screws. Just make sure the horizontal boards sit on top of the legs. That was the mistake I made so I added some extra support for the legs and doubled up on the plywood.

[Patrick Cox]

Yes, that would work fine with 2x4's and pocket screws. Just make sure the horizontal boards sit on top of the legs. That was the mistake I made so I added some extra support for the legs and doubled up on the plywood.

Thanks for your reply. How would I use 2x4s and rest connecting rails on a leg? The only thing I can think of is the sketch below but this seems a bit unstable. I think I could only use one pocket screw to connect each board. Any other ideas? Thanks.

http://www.pcoxphoto.com/100G-Aquarium/i-7n64TbD/0/XL/Leg%20drawing-XL.jpg

[rjjr1963]

Just make a rectangle and sit it on top of the legs. Use pocket screws at the top of the legs pointing up to the bottom of the frame. I glue and screw the joints for additional strength. Use the same process for each additional level. Then attach plywood to the back of the stand and each level to give it lateral stability. I would start out with a rectangular frame sitting on the floor to prevent the legs from kicking out.

[BlurrVT]

Awesome thread. I read the whole thing this weekend:) I started plans for a water mixing station earlier in the week and then found this thread which answered a lot of my questions. Mine is just a redendering at this point. 5 basic functions here. RODI on the left, salt on the right. Tanks will hold 30-50g each. The tanks are there for reference as I haven't decided what I will go with yet. Thanks to you all for finding the Roto Molds from RuralKing with free shipping!
1. Move RODI to the salt container.
2. Mix water in the salt container.
3. Send RODI to the ATO container at the tank.
4. Send salt to the sump during a water change.
5. Fill buckets of either if needed.
I wanted a separate pump for the RODI because I didn't think it was a good idea for the RODI water path to come in contact with the salt path at any point. Could contaminate the water going into the ATO tank. Am I overthinking that bit? Not sure what the RODI pump will actually be at this point, but the Eheim in the drawing is probably overkill. It's just there for reference. I will be using the Eheim 1262 for the salt pump. I haven't worked out the details of actually doing the water change yet (manual on/off of outlets or float switches), so some adjustments might have to be made. I'll also have to take into account any siphons that might be created so that may change things some. I'm also trying to figure out the best way to keep the RODI tank full. I don't want it to just top off. I would rather have it get down to a few gallons and then fill back up. I'm thinking a float switch near the bottom that triggers a solenoid for a set amount of time, a float valve for the RODI inlet just in case the solenoid fails, and possibly another float switch to trigger a hard shutoff in case both of those fail. Anyone have anything they've successfully done here?

What solenoids are you all using with Apex to control RODI flow?
Are the horizontal mounted reed float switches as reliable as the vertical ones? I won't make the system reliant on any one float switch, but I do want to start off with something relatively reliable.

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy20/BlurrVT/Water%20Change_zpswvem3igt.png~original (http://s773.photobucket.com/user/BlurrVT/media/Water%20Change_zpswvem3igt.png.html)

Thanks all for the great inspiration in this thread.

[brittonv]

How far is this from your tank? I just have a tunez ato pump direct from my storage tank to my DT.



Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Volcmreefer]

Here is mine. Using an Iwaki 55RLT to pump up about 15 feet. Top container is fresh and bottom is salt. Iwaki is plumbed so that i can mix the saltwater or pump upstairs. I also have the capability to drain from the display as well. Better than carrying three 5-gallon buckets up stairs every week or two! I can pump topoff water up stairs as well.

Jon

[Roccus]

this is my mix/water station...

DI water is monitored with gauges and TDS meters... one gauge on each side of pre filtration tells me when the filters need changing.. I change them when I get a 10lb differential.. anything over that and the pump starves... the third gauge tell s me pump pressure..

I run two sets of TDS meters... one monitors the water coming in and out of the membrane... the other one monitors the water coming out of the DI resin canisters( I buy in bulk and refill).. when the primary one starts to show TDS I then replace it with the second one in line and install a new one in the second slot... it allows me to make better use of the resin..
Water flows into a 35 Gallon brute storage container controlled by a float and relief valve... the salt water "mixed" tank is also a brute trash can... the bulk head "incoming" side has a Tee fitting with and 90 and a 90 with a 3' section of pipe.. this aids in mixing and allows for attachment of a power head and heater.. 10 scoops of salt gives me a 1.025 mixture from empty.. back flow is prevented by a ball valve at the tank and a check valve at the pump..

A Pan World 100PX delivers the water flow via a series of valves... this valve set up allows me to draw fresh or salt water and also pump water to the tanks on the first and second floor..A quick disconnect at the top of the basement stairs facilitates attachment of a 25' hose that allows me to drain and fill the three tanks... a siphon is accomplished by purging air from the line into a bucket ( this is used to wash filtration and purge any left over "stale" water from the system) then the pump is shut off and a series of valves are closed and opened to allow siphoning of the tank... filling is the reversal of siphon... the 100PX delivers about 4 gallons a minute to the second floor...

[Scffvariable]

Here is my new mixing station.

65g tank for RO, 35 for salt. Quite one 400 to mix and pump. Plumbing runs to my two sumps to be able to refill after a w/c as well as a line to refill ro reservoirs.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160413/3d638288cb62e5049b72acd718ca3438.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160413/abe38de8b068814ef218cec1b23e66ef.jpg
Booster pump for RO/DI

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160413/00603c8e7b753a30b2f3afd1de906f70.jpg
Switched outlets to easily turn on booster pump, mixing pump, and recirculating pump.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[maxpc99]

Has anyone come up with an automated way to slowly add a bag of salt their mixer? I have a similar setup as most of the posts here with a couple of 50g barrels rigged up pretty standard. My next pain point I want to resolve is standing over the mixing barrel slowly scooping in my bag of salt for 15 min. I buy the 200g boxes of reef crystals with the 50g bags so I'm already pre measured . It would be great to load it to some sort of sieve with a shaker/vibrator that would slowly add the contents over 30 min.

Yep, I'm lazy, but I love automation. I run a Genesis water change system to, so really mixing my salt barrel and emptying my skimmer overflow bucket are my only weekly chores. [emoji41]

[soulpatch]

Guess I dont know why you would need to slowly add it. You already know the amount to add so just dump it in. It will mix if you have a powerhead or pump moving the water.

[jason2459]

Guess I dont know why you would need to slowly add it. You already know the amount to add so just dump it in. It will mix if you have a powerhead or pump moving the water.

Dump in to much to fast in one spot could cause precipitation that wont ever mix back in under normal pH.

[soulpatch]

Ah Guess I dont have to dump in that much as I am making 35 gallons at once...I dont have precip issues in my mixer unless I use Red Sea salt.

[jason2459]

I can see it varying from mix to mix based on alkalinity and Mg levels. I go "slow" which is just shaking the bag back and forth and all around while the mixing pump is on but I also am currently using a 44g brute with a large opening to be able to shake around.

[Sphack]

I'm looking at buying two tanks and am looking for some input. I'm trying to size my two tanks.

How long do people store mixed salt water? I have read that some salts (primarily non-reef salts, i.e., Instant Ocean) have no organics and hence are able to be stored for a few weeks.

Similarly, do people run their mixing pumps only to mix, or constantly (and with which salts?) Are there any precipitate problems?


As far as tanks go, I'm looking at a pair of 130g (22" diameter, 82" high) for ro/di and salt water. I can go with smaller/shorter tanks, but would prefer to have the capacity to perform larger water changes in the case of emergencies.

System background:
* setting up for 400g DT, ~550g total water volume
* 150 g/day BRS RO/DI

Thanks!

[stage3-s4]

Has anyone come up with an automated way to slowly add a bag of salt their mixer? I have a similar setup as most of the posts here with a couple of 50g barrels rigged up pretty standard. My next pain point I want to resolve is standing over the mixing barrel slowly scooping in my bag of salt for 15 min. I buy the 200g boxes of reef crystals with the 50g bags so I'm already pre measured . It would be great to load it to some sort of sieve with a shaker/vibrator that would slowly add the contents over 30 min.

Yep, I'm lazy, but I love automation. I run a Genesis water change system to, so really mixing my salt barrel and emptying my skimmer overflow bucket are my only weekly chores. [emoji41]

I have been searching for something myself. Right now I have an Allen Bradly PLC that controls my tank, water changes, and RO/DI unit. It would be great to integrate a device to mix in salt. There are some commercial devices I found that are not cheap that I could probably get to work.

[iced98lx]

Check out an auger drive setup in a channel. I always pictured the auger limiting the salt sliding down the pipe vs pushing it down, if that makes sense. Perhaps a drive unit out of a pellet stove.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

[SchnitzelReef]

Has anyone come up with an automated way to slowly add a bag of salt their mixer? I have a similar setup as most of the posts here with a couple of 50g barrels rigged up pretty standard. My next pain point I want to resolve is standing over the mixing barrel slowly scooping in my bag of salt for 15 min. I buy the 200g boxes of reef crystals with the 50g bags so I'm already pre measured . It would be great to load it to some sort of sieve with a shaker/vibrator that would slowly add the contents over 30 min.

Yep, I'm lazy, but I love automation. I run a Genesis water change system to, so really mixing my salt barrel and emptying my skimmer overflow bucket are my only weekly chores. [emoji41]



I have been mixing salt for 5+ years, I never add it slowly. I also use instant ocean, I just dump the whole 50g bag right in and let my pump mix it up. Never had one issue doing this in 5 years.

[maxpc99]

I have been mixing salt for 5+ years, I never add it slowly. I also use instant ocean, I just dump the whole 50g bag right in and let my pump mix it up. Never had one issue doing this in 5 years.



A your mixing container a typical looking rain barrel or some other shape? What size pump and how is the water flow in the container configured? Approx water temp when you mix?

I'm asking because of precipitate. Do you get a lot? I have almost none.

I mix in a standard rain barrel with basement room temp water (60ish degrees). I have a little giant 60px that recirculates the water from bottom to top and for complete overkill I also run an eheim 1252 that is laying on its side forcing the water in a circular motion. I only run that pump for a few an hour or two, but the little giant close to 24 hours. I use a 1 cup scoop to add the contents of the 50 pound bag. It probably takes me all of 3 or 4 minutes.

[SchnitzelReef]

A your mixing container a typical looking rain barrel or some other shape? What size pump and how is the water flow in the container configured? Approx water temp when you mix?

I'm asking because of precipitate. Do you get a lot? I have almost none.

I mix in a standard rain barrel with basement room temp water (60ish degrees). I have a little giant 60px that recirculates the water from bottom to top and for complete overkill I also run an eheim 1252 that is laying on its side forcing the water in a circular motion. I only run that pump for a few an hour or two, but the little giant close to 24 hours. I use a 1 cup scoop to add the contents of the 50 pound bag. It probably takes me all of 3 or 4 minutes.



http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/B1D3737E-394E-4D91-975B-6F22CFB9DD63_zps9px1aja6.jpg~original (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/B1D3737E-394E-4D91-975B-6F22CFB9DD63_zps9px1aja6.jpg.html)

1800gph pump pulls from the bottom and pushes to the top. Never noticed any precipitate. What would it even look like? Water is typically pretty cold. Less then 70* for sure.

[jason2459]

Colder is better to reduce precipitation of Ca. More flow will also help as well to mix faster. But with more flow usually means stronger pump which could cause localized high heat causing a build up of precipitation on the pump.

Some precipitation most likely isn't a big deal.

It could look like a film build up on the sides of the container, build up on pumps or heaters, or particulates undesolved at the bottom but may get sucked up into the tank with water changes and is at that point sand.

[Redman88]

Check out an auger drive setup in a channel. I always pictured the auger limiting the salt sliding down the pipe vs pushing it down, if that makes sense. Perhaps a drive unit out of a pellet stove.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


I work with auger drive powder/sand delivery systems. They suck for long term consistency of delivery.

[iced98lx]

I work with auger drive powder/sand delivery systems. They suck for long term consistency of delivery.
Don't think of the auger as volume control it's just an easy way to deliver over a period of time.

[Patrick Cox]

I will have a heater and small maxijet inside of my saltwater container and I plan to drill a port hole in the top of the container for the wires to pass through. What would be a good way to seal up that hole? I am using this container...


http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/10221/arlington-sp0016-mm

Thanks

[Dinnin]

For slow mixing, what about using a vario or an arduino in a hopper with a rotating agitator? Think of it like an old hand cranked sugar seive, or a dispenser system like a deer feeder.

[Speedfreak241]

http://s23.postimg.org/8ebprz853/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/8ebprz853/)
All gravity fed with a maxi jet in the bottom saltwater container with the bulkhead drilled higher so it never runs dry.

[stage3-s4]

Check out an auger drive setup in a channel. I always pictured the auger limiting the salt sliding down the pipe vs pushing it down, if that makes sense. Perhaps a drive unit out of a pellet stove.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

do you have a link to something like that?

[Patrick Cox]

Just make a rectangle and sit it on top of the legs. Use pocket screws at the top of the legs pointing up to the bottom of the frame. I glue and screw the joints for additional strength. Use the same process for each additional level. Then attach plywood to the back of the stand and each level to give it lateral stability. I would start out with a rectangular frame sitting on the floor to prevent the legs from kicking out.

Hi,
I have started working on my stand. I will basically build two tables out of 2x4s like the drawing below and stack one on top of the other. What thickness of plywood should I use for the table tops that will hold the water containers? 3/4" or 1/2"? Thanks.

http://www.pcoxphoto.com/100G-Aquarium/i-C4826dh/0/L/Stand%20Drawings%202b-L.jpg

[Gino555]

Hi, Guys I was reading almost the whole thread, but coudn find the my answer.
Ok, anybody have any smart idea how to secure heater in mixing container? My container is 60 gal vertical with 5in lid on the top., and to reach the bottom inside is impossible to put suctions cups. And of course I prefer to keep heater on the lower line as much as I can. Any Idea??? And if you have pic. would be perfect. Thank a lot.

[dbl]

Take a piece of pvc pipe just shorter than the height of the container. Secure heater to pipe and put pipe inside. You'll be able to grab the pipe to remove if/when needed.

[ClownsRCoo]

Why does it need to be secure? I just lay mine at the bottom of my containers. If I need to get it out the cord is coming out of the top of the container so I just pull it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gino555]

Why I want to secure? Because when I will mix, the water will move very strong and I just scare that it will damage the connection to heat element and cord.

About PVC looks smart, and if I will drill some holes in PVC it will make more flow inside.

Thank You guys.

[Vegas RN]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/2bb2b875319be27b2e8fe3157fd9384b.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[SchnitzelReef]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/2bb2b875319be27b2e8fe3157fd9384b.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk



Those schedule 40 valves are gunna get very tight and end up really hard to turn.

Schedule 80 Spears ball valves are the way to go
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/7C2C680A-6B45-4AFE-906D-097D0193496E_zpsmpv7g66b.jpg~original (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/7C2C680A-6B45-4AFE-906D-097D0193496E_zpsmpv7g66b.jpg.html)
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/73C0319C-ED82-4462-901B-62919017F8DD_zpseyqfekch.jpg~original (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/73C0319C-ED82-4462-901B-62919017F8DD_zpseyqfekch.jpg.html)

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/nickfrick66/9637EB73-7203-45F7-866B-E3FB7C14EEB5_zpsof4q3vdv.jpg~original (http://s1230.photobucket.com/user/nickfrick66/media/9637EB73-7203-45F7-866B-E3FB7C14EEB5_zpsof4q3vdv.jpg.html)

[Vegas RN]

I know but I'd have to order online. Needed to get it done this weekend

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[saltmeup]

348924348925

My station. Ran pex tubing straight to the sump and also included a separate pump in the salt mixing bin which is controlled by Apex controller.

[fetta]

Just started mine, hopefully plumbing in next day or sohttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/c7670cebd179873f154498b858fa3afe.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/fe581320f6d2c27f0b560d3f91c7d327.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[cwill78295]

Sorry to get a little off topic from this thread, but I am trying to set up a Water Mixing Station too.

Need help on how to clean a newly purchased water tank I bought off Craiglist. Seller said it was "never used" for his carpet cleaning business but I'm a little suspicious. Bought it anyways since it was a good deal.

Is there a cleaning method / reef safe cleaning additive (i.e. vinegar) that will clean the inside well enough to be aquarium safe?

And after cleaning, would a Reef Test Kit detect any "chemical residue"?

Don't know if I'm being too paranoid but wanted to see if anyone had more knowledge in this area. Thanks!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/08/34b7ea2b5282e40f3f7a7e2030ce0096.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/08/e2a124214e89ebf483785a19120f753e.jpg
I was wondering the same thing, although i bought brand new tanks. They just smell funny. Im thinking of running tap water and vinegar through them.

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[Vegas RN]

I did vinegar.

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[mfaso24]

For those using brutes or other cylindrical water storage vats. How did you drill it to add your bulkhead? I tried using a hole saw but it kept skipping. Eventually my brother came up with the idea to heat the drill bit with a torch and it melted a perfect hole right through.


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[leekevin]

did your hole saw arbor have the pilot bit installed

[mfaso24]

did your hole saw arbor have the pilot bit installed



No it didn't have one. But that solves my problem haha thanks!

[muttley000]

Read this slowly through the week. Thanks to all that put their systems here for us to learn from! I am getting started with a pair of 150 gallon verical tanks from Kentucky Tank that I was able to get picked up by someone driving by and not pay shipping! I have seen it asked a few times but never answered on how to deal what the TDS spike that comes at the start of turning on the water to the RODI system. I have come up with an idea to automate it using a small Plc working with Russ at Buckeye Hydro. I will be using a Iwaki size 55 as that is my skimmer pump and this gives me a backup that I can live without for a couple of days. Build will commence when RODI automation is complete! Quick question, since you guys are turning these every week, long tem who's true Union ball valves are the best value for the money?

[Redman88]

This is how I deal with TDS creep.


So I know I have hard water so a preflush of the RO membrane is a must and something I have been doing. So I want to automate my RO container fill and flush the membrane before I start filling my containers. Most of the auto shutoffs don't flush and the ones that do are for industrial systems so the price is outside of my range. This auto fill/flush system is going to use 5 solenoid valves at least one time delay relay, and a manual override switch. Nothing drawn up yet but I will update. Yes I could do some kind of micro controller but I am not that good at programming and learning what I needed would take longer then I am willing to wait. I also still need to run a dedicated circuit out to my porch where my water change/ RO containers are.

[muttley000]

Thanks Redman! I have read flushing of the membrane should be done periodically during long runs. I was also thinking of flushing at start up but Russ says doing it at shutdown is much better so that your membrane isn't potentially sitting with scale, etc on it during the down times. I have also been told that any old solenoid will not last on for the DI bypass that will be required to allow the TDS creep effected water to drain. Can you tell me what solenoid you went with here and how you wired your system up?

[Vegas RN]

I bought an Rodi unit with auto flush. Helps out a lot

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[Redman88]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016MP1HX0/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1463339340&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v+water+valve

I couldn't find Info on weather to flush before or after.

[Redman88]

If you read through my thread I have how I wired it up in there

[muttley000]

If you read through my thread I have how I wired it up in there

Awesome thanks!

[WLachnit]

Read this slowly through the week. Thanks to all that put their systems here for us to learn from! I am getting started with a pair of 150 gallon verical tanks from Kentucky Tank that I was able to get picked up by someone driving by and not pay shipping! I have seen it asked a few times but never answered on how to deal what the TDS spike that comes at the start of turning on the water to the RODI system. I have come up with an idea to automate it using a small Plc working with Russ at Buckeye Hydro. I will be using a Iwaki size 55 as that is my skimmer pump and this gives me a backup that I can live without for a couple of days. Build will commence when RODI automation is complete! Quick question, since you guys are turning these every week, long tem who's true Union ball valves are the best value for the money?

I am using Cepex true union Sch80 valves. Pricey but they are easy to adjust with the provided tool. I also have a couple of Hayward true union Sch80 valves that work well so far, but don't have as much history with those. They are much less expensive.

[muttley000]

I am using Cepex true union Sch80 valves. Pricey but they are easy to adjust with the provided tool. I also have a couple of Hayward true union Sch80 valves that work well so far, but don't have as much history with those. They are much less expensive.

Thank you very much for the reply!

[boon the goon]

i wish i had the space

[lennyd19]

I have a quick question. So I have my AWC station all set up and ready to go. I will be filling new tank in the next couple of days. What is everyone's opinion of when to start the AWC? It will be with a DOS and about 1.5 gals a night. Thanks and here are is a pic of my setup.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/65f06d376ef091f3eb5cb0a358a7ed56.jpg

[fltekdiver]

Nice set up !
Are you using cycled live rock and live sand?

If so, you can start your AWC right after you do your large water change when your cycled

[lennyd19]

I am using cured/cycled live rock, live sand and 10-20 gal from an established tank. There is one fish and 3 pieces of coral being transferred over.

[fltekdiver]

Perfect, you may not even see a cycle, I'd expect it in a day or two to show Nitrate to let you know your cycles complete
My 60 gal redsea I did the same, and it was so quick I missed it

I'd wait a week or two to let everything stabilize before the AWC start
You can add fish etc right at the end of the cycle

I waited 2 days after my cycle, which was cycled in 2 days, and 2 days later I added fish

Good luck !

[dustinc]

Where is the best place to find containers for this purpose? I would like to get 2 containers, approximately 25 gallons each to keep a small supply of salt and ro on hand in my garage.

[lennyd19]

Where is the best place to find containers for this purpose? I would like to get 2 containers, approximately 25 gallons each to keep a small supply of salt and ro on hand in my garage.



I had to have mine shipped to me from PA. But I think tractor supply has some 35 gallons and under.

[Chuck72]

In progress. Plumbing under slab going to the sump

[South City]

Where is the best place to find containers for this purpose? I would like to get 2 containers, approximately 25 gallons each to keep a small supply of salt and ro on hand in my garage.

You can often find food grade plastic barrels on Craigslist for a good price.

[jason2459]

In progress. Plumbing under slab going to the sump

Awesome how you have that mounted to the concrete wall.... :lmao:

[Johnseye]

My station is fairly simple. I've used what's in the below picture for the past two years. I've recently changed the bottom SW 25g container to black one that is 55g. Clear/white lets too much light in. When I had a MH light on in the same room I started to get some algae growth. Not good. The 25g SW container will be used for ATO water without kalk that I'll use for my frag tank. I've found that using kalk dosed ATO water in a 25g open top, high evaporation, frag tank doses way too much kalk. My RODI unit is a 5 stage Spectrapure. I use a pressure pump as my water is from a well and relatively low pressure, around 50-60 psi.

The top container is 45g and used for kalk dosed RODI water. I do not auto start my RODI filtration. I like to do it in large controlled sessions to help elongate the filter use. Because I put kalk in my ATO container I do not pour water from the top container to the bottom. That was my original intention before I began using kalk. I simply move the RODI output tube from one container to the other when filtering water for storage and use.

I have primarily use Spectrapure, however I gave Avast's ATO setup a shot. I was disappointed as the water needs to drop about an inch before it fills. Avast did replace a pressure tube once, and they had to replace the insides of the pump because of failure. It still isn't as good as the Spectrapure for a similar design. I had been using the Litermeter 3 for my AWC on my 120g, but bought a Genesis Renew AWC for my 260g.

http://johnzei.com/pictures/aquarium/waterstation.jpg

[Ted_C]

I set up a 2nd water mixing station in my garage - similar design to my first one: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2480980

Started last week by plumbing in the drain side of the laundry tub. I wanted a way to tee off the standpipe I had for the laundry for the laundry tub drain. I'm a pro at PVC - but this drain plumbing isn't quite like gluing pvc together - as it has those compression fittings. Also, the existing standpipe already had a trap - and I couldn't use the supplied piping as that would result in a double trap. Easier than I thought with a trip to home depot. Ended up using an end outlet (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Plastic-End-Outlet-Waste-C9121AB/205153661) to make it work.

On Saturday - it was working on the copper soldering. I already had feeds in the garage outside the wall for the laundry - so I didn't think it was going to be as hard as it turned out. I had a 3/4" tiny outlet for the cold water and had 1/2" for the hot water. For some reason, the previous homeowner tied into the hot water to feed the refrigerator ice maker. I had switched it over to the cold with the funky contraption / garden hose wye you see on the valve on the right in the pics below.

The hot side went in like a breeze. the cold side - i probably spent a good 4 hours soldering and re-soldering. I had a lot of trouble getting the solder to stick to the 3/4" x 1/2" 90 / pipe. 2 trips to home depot to replace bent fittings. Turned out to just be a cleaning issue with the pipe I guess. Got it to stick around 9 PM that night. That made for a long long day.

Started plumbing up the fresh and saltwater containers on Sunday. Finished that up on Monday. Got them from Glenn Industries (of course). He's down on automobile blvd just off of Ulmerton (South of St Pete / Clearwater airport).

the spectrapure came in on Tuesday night - so I started getting that ready.

Glued foam to the back steel plate to dampen vibrations. Drilled all the bulkheads required for the fresh water tank (two floats, one flush, and one input). The input has a redundant float valve to stop the water from overflowing.

The glue was set by wedensday night - so I mounted everything up and started making water.

Water mixing station: Overall
https://pclaypool.homeserver.com/public_pictures/2016_06_09_300_Water_Station_3.jpg

My crappy copper work:
https://pclaypool.homeserver.com/public_pictures/2016_06_09_300_Water_Station_4.jpg

Spectrapure UHE 100:
https://pclaypool.homeserver.com/public_pictures/2016_06_09_300_Water_Station_2.jpg

Plumbing for the water mixing station:
https://pclaypool.homeserver.com/public_pictures/2016_06_09_300_Water_Station_1.jpg

[JBradford]

Where do you guys keep these stations? I want to build up a station but it would be in the garage. And I've been debating if the temp differential of my garage in Oklahoma throughout the year would cause any problems.

I already make RO so mixing salt should be happening also.

[Ted_C]

my first one is in my bedroom closet. 2nd one is in my garage. Florida has some extreme heat in the summers - but if you do water changes in the morning - the water temperature should be fine.

The key is - where is water convenient to you to work with? The bedroom closet water change: the bathroom is on the other side of the wall - so I just tied into the bathroom plumbing for the laundry tub. From there - everything else is easy.

[JBradford]

That's how my tank is right now. It's on the other side of the wall from my laundry room, so my ro filter is in thell landry room with a line running through the wall into the living room where I have a small holding tank hidden under a table for my ATO. But my laundry room isn't big enough for a changing station.

My garage is on the other side of the laundry room so getting ro to the garage is simple. But plumbing back from the garage to the living room for fresh salt seems to be a big chore, especially when I throw in the twist this in a rent house.

[dustinc]

I'm working on finalizing my saltwater mixing station, and I don't think I've seen what type of fitting you guys are using inside the saltwater tank for mixing. I have my bulkhead drilled and placed but didn't know if people just let the pump run directly into the container, or if they use a couple fitting to put the flow in a specific spot, and I even thought about using a piece of pvc with a cap and then drilling small holes down it so it could have pressure. Just need some help in this area. Thanks

[kutcha]

so is there a way to set up a tank to do like automatic 1 gallon water changes a day?

[Ted_C]

I'm working on finalizing my saltwater mixing station, and I don't think I've seen what type of fitting you guys are using inside the saltwater tank for mixing.

None really - only downward pointed 90's to ensure pulling from the bottom or pushing the flow downward. I have a TUNZE TURBELLE STREAM 6085 pump in the saltwater vat (drilled through the top, cut the wire to go through the hole and re-attached the leads) to promote mixing.

[EagleFF]

I cut one of my internal down pipes about 3 ft off bottom and make 5 gal of water, turn pump on and circulate tank while adding salt mix continue filling up with RO water, seems to mix pretty good, I hadnt seen anything left over in the bottom of the tank

[soulpatch]

so is there a way to set up a tank to do like automatic 1 gallon water changes a day?

Sure a lot of us do it with pumps from a holding tank. Litermeter, masterflex, dos, and more are all frequently used.

[soulpatch]

I'm working on finalizing my saltwater mixing station, and I don't think I've seen what type of fitting you guys are using inside the saltwater tank for mixing. I have my bulkhead drilled and placed but didn't know if people just let the pump run directly into the container, or if they use a couple fitting to put the flow in a specific spot, and I even thought about using a piece of pvc with a cap and then drilling small holes down it so it could have pressure. Just need some help in this area. Thanks

The one tank I have is a leg style so it's bulkhead is at the bottom front. I have a MJ1200 on the side blowing upward in the tank and the return pump is plumbed with pvc that extends to the bottom rear of the tank and uses a 45 degree fitting to hit the back wall of the holding tank.

My 75 gallon is a standard tall round container. It has the bulkhead at the bottom. I will be putting the return into the top of the container with the PVC extending down 1/4 of the holding tank. The end of the return will be a T with a 45 end on each side in opposite angles to help make a cyclone of sorts in the tank. 2 RW4 in the tank will also aid in mixing.

[BFG]

I'm not from around your side of the neighbourhood but do you also take the rodi water for your own consumption from the storage tank ? Reason I asked is that the salt water might creep into the filtered water compartment or it doesnt ? Or do you have another container to store the rodi water for drinking purposes ?

[mukota]

So many great water stations. I just recently got back into reefing after being away since 2002. I'm starting to plan my water station.

Question for those in cold climate areas. Does anyone have their water station in an unheated area? If so, any trouble bring the water up to temp?

[soulpatch]

I keep my tanks in the utility room where my air handler is. It is not heated persay but it within the house so its also not freezing. In the winter water in the containers is around 50-55 degrees I would say.

I dont have any "issues" bringing it up to temp in the mix container and keeping it as such though I do notice on my electric bill an extra $10 or so during the winter each month.

[mukota]

Your temps are similar to where I want to keep my water setup. Thanks for the info!

[soulpatch]

Your costs might be less as I keep the salt mix up to temp at all times with powerhead and pump running. I dont heat just to use. Once mixed it is brought up to temp and remains as such in the container as I use it for AWC, QT, and other uses so I never want to wait for it to warm up.

If you are setting it up to do weekly changes you would only need to heat the day before and as such your costs and such would be much less.

[Devolver]

what do you all recommend for a high head pressure pump to pump like 20' feet.

I am planning a WC station in my basement and need to get the water to the display somehow.

[shifty51008]

what do you all recommend for a high head pressure pump to pump like 20' feet.

I am planning a WC station in my basement and need to get the water to the display somehow.

panworld/blueline or ilwaki pumps are great

[EagleFF]

I use a panworld 1750gph and will pull 100 gal in 3 min , I run 100 ft of 1" pex to DT for water changes, it doesnt take long

[Elo500]

For those using an Rv water hose, how do you connect the 5/8" hose to pump or PVC ? Most pump connections are 1/2, 3/4, 1" or are you using the 1/2" hose?

[lnevo]

You can get a pvc garden hose adapter. I think I bought mine on flexpvc.com

[JBradford]

Lowes sells the adapter also. They are on the next isle over from our normal pvc items.

[mikenam]

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7427/27948401682_d5078fba1f_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JzGS7w)Failed Salt water mixing station (https://flic.kr/p/JzGS7w) by Mike Ngo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/128686527@N08/), on Flickr

My first attempt failed. Purchased a shelf from Lowes and I think it was rated for 200 or 175 lb per shelf. The container on top is a 25 gallon brute that held about 20 gallons on water. I looked online and the weight per 1 gallon of water was ~8.34lbs, so i figured i give it a try and hope that it holds. Well... it didn't. It might be because i had the brute on one side of the shelf and didn't distribute the weight, but the top legs gave out and collapse spilling all the RO water on my garage floor. I lowered the float valve and now it holding about 5 gallons of RO water. Hopefully it is able to hold with only 5 gallons.

Under the RO is 5 gallons for salt water mix. On the other side of my garage, i have another 25 gallon to collect waste water for plants and what ever else might need it. When it overflows, it drains out onto the side of my house.

[ps2cho]

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7427/27948401682_d5078fba1f_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JzGS7w)Failed Salt water mixing station (https://flic.kr/p/JzGS7w) by Mike Ngo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/128686527@N08/), on Flickr

My first attempt failed. Purchased a shelf from Lowes and I think it was rated for 200 or 175 lb per shelf. The container on top is a 25 gallon brute that held about 20 gallons on water. I looked online and the weight per 1 gallon of water was ~8.34lbs, so i figured i give it a try and hope that it holds. Well... it didn't. It might be because i had the brute on one side of the shelf and didn't distribute the weight, but the top legs gave out and collapse spilling all the RO water on my garage floor. I lowered the float valve and now it holding about 5 gallons of RO water. Hopefully it is able to hold with only 5 gallons.

Under the RO is 5 gallons for salt water mix. On the other side of my garage, i have another 25 gallon to collect waste water for plants and what ever else might need it. When it overflows, it drains out onto the side of my house.

Its only rated to that weight spread out, not in a concentrated area. If you put a thick piece of wood that spans the whole frame, it would probably work.

[ps2cho]

Where is the best place to find containers for this purpose? I would like to get 2 containers, approximately 25 gallons each to keep a small supply of salt and ro on hand in my garage.

Shipping online is insane....

Go to Norwesco website and search for local distributors. Then call the distributor store and check if they have X in stock and voila!

[mikenam]

Its only rated to that weight spread out, not in a concentrated area. If you put a thick piece of wood that spans the whole frame, it would probably work.

Thanks, I actually ended up doing just and reduced the amount of water down to around 10. It is holding up pretty nicely now. My tank is only around 50 gallons and is more than enough.

[SwirlyWirley]

I'm down to needing 2 55g containers. Shipping is outrageous, I've got my pump, valves and such ready. Can't seem to accept that I have to pay $230 in shipping!

[soulpatch]

Look at ruralking.com. They have containers and if the one you are looking for is over $99 bucks then the shipping is free. I have a 75 gallon drum from them that cost me $120 total a couple months ago...

[jason2459]

I've moved my sump and water station and decided to go super simple.

65 gallon brute for rodi water (rodi feeds to a float valve in it), 23 gallon slimjim for ATO, 55 gallon brute for saltwater automatic water changes.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/8bc916a0cb7004dd410a3c1261d82af1.jpg

29 gallon rubbermaid tote is next to the 55g new saltmix brute not in the picture.

Mag 18 in the 65g rodi brute and when I need to fill one of the other containers up I just plug it in. 23g ATO and 29 gallon tote takes less then a minute and the 55g new saltmix brute about a minute.

[JoeMomma]

Great thread with very useful information. I'll definitely be setting up one of these in my new home.

For those of you who incorporate a semi manual water change into the setup, how do you ensure you are getting the same volume of water out of your display/sump as what you are pumping in with you saltwater barrel?

[Johnseye]

So many great water stations. I just recently got back into reefing after being away since 2002. I'm starting to plan my water station.

Question for those in cold climate areas. Does anyone have their water station in an unheated area? If so, any trouble bring the water up to temp?
My ATO and SW reservoirs are in the basement and never heated. There's no point and it's a waste of electricity/money . ATO water is added to the tank in such small amounts it will never change the sump temp. Even if I change 20% of SW the temp only drops a degree or two which is fine provided I do it when the lights have already heated the tank up that much. I'll typically get a 3 degree swing in a day as I don't run a chiller.

[WLachnit]

Great thread with very useful information. I'll definitely be setting up one of these in my new home.

For those of you who incorporate a semi manual water change into the setup, how do you ensure you are getting the same volume of water out of your display/sump as what you are pumping in with you saltwater barrel?

I have a small mark on my DT that tells me how much to drain. Not sure if that answers your question.

[40gal]

What fittings are you all using for the water level indicator on the sides of your tanks? I can find plenty of 90° JG/push fittings but they all have MPT on the other end instead of a bulkhead style fitting.

I just picked up 2 78 gallon barrels and I'm looking forward to getting all my stuff set up.

[jason2459]

You looking for float switch?

I've got several of these
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/float-switch-horizontal-mount.html

[lnevo]

What fittings are you all using for the water level indicator on the sides of your tanks? I can find plenty of 90° JG/push fittings but they all have MPT on the other end instead of a bulkhead style fitting.



I just picked up 2 78 gallon barrels and I'm looking forward to getting all my stuff set up.



I used a 1/2" uniseal and then a slip to thread coupling with a 90 degree MPT to 1/2" barb

[Gezkovich]

In progress. Plumbing under slab going to the sump







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[E.litvin]

Question that I've heard many difference answers on... Once you mix your salt water do you have to keep it circulating? Also, how long does everyone let their saltwater sit in the WC station? Thank you !!

[E.litvin]

I have a quick question. So I have my AWC station all set up and ready to go. I will be filling new tank in the next couple of days. What is everyone's opinion of when to start the AWC? It will be with a DOS and about 1.5 gals a night. Thanks and here are is a pic of my setup.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/65f06d376ef091f3eb5cb0a358a7ed56.jpg

Really clean looking design, great work

[lennyd19]

Really clean looking design, great work



Thank you very much. To answer your question about storing NSW. I have a pump that is hooked up to APEX that turns on every hour for 15 min. The only problem I had was I had to black out my window in basement was starting to grow algae. Also I do not worry about temp.

[2wheelsonly]

http://i.imgur.com/xrq8F8Y.jpg

[Johnseye]

Question that I've heard many difference answers on... Once you mix your salt water do you have to keep it circulating? Also, how long does everyone let their saltwater sit in the WC station? Thank you !!
I keep a small powerhead in my SW tank for circulation. It can sit as long as you need provided it's sealed without light penetration. At least that's been my experience.