PVC Pipe Purple primer--- how long do I let it dry?

[ramtmac]

how long do i let the primer sit on the pipes before putting the cement on?
Thanks

also any tips on glueing the pieces together are welcome!

[mfinn]

I put the primer on 2-3 pieces and start gluing up immediataly.

Put the primer on, then glue, then push on with a little twist and hold for 5-10 seconds and wipe the excess off with a towel.


I also mark the direction each piece goes together with a pen or pencil.

[billdogg]

I have found that it dries best when left in the can. On the shelf at HD. I have had 100% success using just glue with all my tank plumbing - it is such low pressure that it really does not make any difference as long as the pipe is new and relatively clean.

When working on my house plumbing, it gets used maybe 25% of the time - once again, never an issue.

[ramtmac]

thanks guys. i was going to let it dry for about 2 hours... you think thats enough or should i wait longer?

[msp2673]

Way too long. Just prime then glue right away:

From Oatey (Purple Primer Manufacturer):
9. Should primer or primer/cleaner be allowed to dry before applying solvent cement?

Because the primers will soften the pipe surface, it is important to apply solvent cement to the pipe and fittings while the primer is still wet to achieve maximum bond strength.

[mfinn]

You are suppose to use glue immediately after using the primer.

[kcress]

As stated, you need no primer at all. REPEAT: NO PRIMER AT ALL. Code only requires it in cases where the pipe is 4" in diameter or larger. It is also recommended for spaflex. Just use it, then immediately follow it up with the glue and finish the joint.

[medicmedic]

Both primer and cement are important. Apply and glue - hold in place for about 5 to 10 seconds. You will be good to go!

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/medicmedic/Fish/100_0074-1.jpg

[slumpysix]

just a side not, if you primer pipes and then try to test fit them. They will weld together with just the primer and will be a, well you know, to get them apart. I've only used the glue and had 100% success. If there is foreign material on pipe such as pricetag, etc. use the primer to clear it off.

[stugray]

I just use this now:

http://www.tchristy.com/redhotblueglue/

No primer and I use it with spa-flex.

Stu

[kcress]

I've been using the Gorilla PVC Glue. Wow! No smell what-so-ever. Really nice to use in the house.

[Engloid]

thanks guys. i was going to let it dry for about 2 hours... you think thats enough or should i wait longer?

Do NOT do that or dont' bother. Unless the pipe is really dirty, you don't need the cleaning aspects of it, but the priming will be more valuable. Put the primer on, then scrape the area with a fingernail. You'll notice that the area has become a bit soft. Essentially, when you add the glue to it, the two pieces will "weld" themselves together since both have the surface softened up. Letting it dry ahead of time will completely ruin that process.

But as mentioned above, many people don't use glue. Personally, I do because I don't want the first failure to be in my house.

[Brett J]

I'm an electrician and I've talked to a lot of plumbers, who say that you should use the primer.
Also they have told stories of where the inspector will not approve the inspection because they don't see purple on the pipes. Thats on the water lines and drain lines. which one is pressurized and one is not.
So if it was up to me then I would use is.

[TAB]

I just use this now:

http://www.tchristy.com/redhotblueglue/

No primer and I use it with spa-flex.

Stu

red hot is the way to go...


Just something to think about, on the side of the can they have these things called instructions. they are very helpful. more so in this case, diffrent manufactors have slightly diffrent methods for applying the primer and the solvent.

[spc1spc1]

I've been using the Gorilla PVC Glue. Wow! No smell what-so-ever. Really nice to use in the house.

+1 thats what I've been using lately

[xrunner1234]

You could probably get away without primer but if your going to do the work do it right!

[eznet2u]

You aquarium will not be inspected. Primer is not needed. Looks ugly too...

(Just a note - If you do use primer. You can clean off the excess with Acetone and a rag. This will also remove the printing on the pipe to make it look nicer.)

[BeanAnimal]

The proper way to solvent weld PVC pipe is to use PRIMER.

PVC cement is NOT glue, it is a solvent with PVC disolved in it. The PRIMER and THE CEMENT are similar, but the CEMENT does not have disolved PVC in it.

Why use primer? The solvent is more concentrated in the primer. It is designed to cut through the hard surface layer of PVC and any dirt, grease or release agent on the pipe or fitting. It penetrates deeper into the pipe than the cement, preparing the plastic for the cement. It helps to ensure a strong leak free joint.

Can you get away without using primer? Sure, but why not do it right? As mentioned it can be cleaned off. CLEAR primer is also available.

[ZurichOne95]

I don't let it dry, I use it wet and use the second part ( the Cement) as soon as possible. Holds and seals better that way. Dont skimp out and try to save glue, use more than you think you need. Better to be safe

[Medicoles]

I give it about twenty seconds and then glue them together, but +1 on not even using primer. It is only necessary for high pressure applications and even then it is not truly necessary unless your aquarium has to meet building code. :)

[BeanAnimal]

I give it about twenty seconds and then glue them together That is not the proper procedure with or without primer. Both the primer and cement contain volatiles that quickly evaporate. Both are designed to soften (melt) the PVC pipe so that when they are joined, the plastic from both pieces intermingles to create a weld.

but +1 on not even using primer. It is only necessary for high pressure applications and even then it is not truly necessary unless your aquarium has to meet building code. :)

That is simply not the truth. The primer plays an integral role in creating a strong leak free joint. If the manufacturers and independent testing showed that primer was not needed, then it would not be a requirement of the building code.

Very little of the national building, plumbing and electric code is the result of politics or poorly thought out rules. It is not written to keep the average dolt from making a mistake and it is not centered around overkill. The code is written to be read by skilled tradespeople who already have specific training in their craft. In most cases, the codes are the result of decades of experience, manufacturers input and independent scientific testing. The plumbing code calls for primer because primer has been proven to create a better, stronger, more consistent joint. Telling people that primer is not needed on high pressure joints is passing incorrect information, something that is never a good idea.

[SDguy]

how long do i let the primer sit on the pipes before putting the cement on?
Thanks

also any tips on glueing the pieces together are welcome!

As has been said, just prime and glue. I don't wait.

Also, some other tips:

Have PLENTY of newspapers or cardboard laying all around the area you are working in. It's amazing where drops will appear when all is said and done :)

Keep plenty of towels around to wipe away excess glue (I know I always seem to use just a bit too much).

I like to use latex gloves, because no matter how careful I am, I always end up with primer on my fingers, which can lead to painful little cuts/hangnails after a while.

hth

[Engloid]

I'm an electrician and I've talked to a lot of plumbers, who say that you should use the primer.
Also they have told stories of where the inspector will not approve the inspection because they don't see purple on the pipes.
I have been told that this is why it is colored. Years back, all primer was clear and inspectors had no way of knowing if it was used. Now they can easily tell if it was used. Without the color, insurance companies may have wound up requiring that the inspector witness each joint being put together to verify the primer was used.


Very little of the national building, plumbing and electric code is the result of politics or poorly thought out rules. It is not written to keep the average dolt from making a mistake and it is not centered around overkill. The code is written to be read by skilled tradespeople who already have specific training in their craft. In most cases, the codes are the result of decades of experience, manufacturers input and independent scientific testing. The plumbing code calls for primer because primer has been proven to create a better, stronger, more consistent joint.

You say it, brother!! :thumbsup:

As a Certified Welding Inspector, reading codes is a huge part of the job. Along with the reasons above for creation of codes is that in many cases, people died, and a failure analysis proved that a certain step should be added to the process, a specific item wasn't used, etc. But like I said, people die sometimes due to things being done improperly. Insurance companies know nothing about plumbing, so they depend on codes to help them out. If you want to build a pressure vessel in the US, you will most likely be doing it to ASME code. The company that insures your vessel will DEMAND that it be done according to some code, most likely ASME. They know that ASME knows more than they ever will about pressure vessel safety, and they don't want to now more. Having standards makes their job easier.

[mcoomer]

I was doing plumbing over the weekend and I put primer on both sides, cement right away, and then join them together. You should hold the parts together for a couple minutes though because as the PVC softens and expands it can force the joint apart slightly.

Mike

[nanonubey]

That is simply not the truth. The primer plays an integral role in creating a strong leak free joint. If the manufacturers and independent testing showed that primer was not needed, then it would not be a requirement of the building code.

Very little of the national building, plumbing and electric code is the result of politics or poorly thought out rules. It is not written to keep the average dolt from making a mistake and it is not centered around overkill. THE CODE IS WRITTEN TO BE READ BY SKILLED TRADESPEOPLE WHO ALREADY HAVE SPECIFIC TRAINING IN THIER CRAFT. In most cases, the codes are the result of decades of experience, manufacturers input and independent scientific testing. The plumbing code calls for primer because primer has been proven to create a better, stronger, more consistent joint. Telling people that primer is not needed on high pressure joints is passing incorrect information, something that is never a good idea.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Bean! I am a plumber with 10 years experience and I can tell you that primer makes a huge difference in a glue joint! I can peel a fitting that was'nt primed off a twenty year old joint no problem but one that was primed an hour earlier is not coming off. All pipe should be primed as well as the fitting, then glue right after and connect, then a quarter twist. Also to keep it clean pour out half the primer and shake the dobber just below the opening of the can real fast, this will get rid of the drips. :thumbsup:

[BeanAnimal]

I was doing plumbing over the weekend and I put primer on both sides, cement right away, and then join them together. You should hold the parts together for a couple minutes though because as the PVC softens and expands it can force the joint apart slightly.

Mike

Yes! The sockets in SLIP PVC fittings are actually tapered. If you do not hold the joint long enough the fittings will separate slightly as the solvent evaporates, leaving a weak (or leaking) joint. Once you have pressed the fittings together, giving them a 1/4 turn as you do, then should not be moved!

[tozzi]

def prime. If you only glue you can get the pieces apart with 2 wrenches. If you try this on somethin that was primed its gonna break or crack. Way stronger. Why wouldnt you want to prime it so its stronger in your own house? The last place id want to take a short cut is my own house, especially with water.

[fio1022]

I used clear pvc primer.I didn't want the purple to show.
Nice and clean.

[stugray]

tozzi,

"If you only glue you can get the pieces apart with 2 wrenches. If you try this on somethin that was primed its gonna break or crack."

Have you actually tried that?

I guarantee that you will break the pipe trying that with one of my joints without primer.

Stu

[xrunner1234]

tozzi,

"If you only glue you can get the pieces apart with 2 wrenches. If you try this on somethin that was primed its gonna break or crack."

Have you actually tried that?

I guarantee that you will break the pipe trying that with one of my joints without primer.

Stu

Actually I have tried this before on one of my joints and it did come apart.

[tozzi]

tozzi,

"If you only glue you can get the pieces apart with 2 wrenches. If you try this on somethin that was primed its gonna break or crack."

Have you actually tried that?

I guarantee that you will break the pipe trying that with one of my joints without primer.

Stu

I did plenty of pvc glue joints. If you only use glue, usually you'll be able to get the fittings apart with 2 pipe wrenches. With primer they will not come apart. Now if your talking about a 4" pipe with just glue, then you wont get them apart with wrenches, human body just isnt strong enough. Maybe with 2 huge wrenches and 2 pipes for leverage i dont know. But were talking fish tank plumbing so it's prob 1 1/2" or smaller. Very simple.... They make the primer for the first step in a pvc glue joint. The glue is step 2. why would you not do step one so that your doing it the right way? then step 2

[tozzi]

Actually I have tried this before on one of my joints and it did come apart.

Thank you, :dance:

[liquidplumber]

Definetly use PRIMER, you don't need to use the purple unless you are getting a plumbing inspection, The primer doesn't just clean the pipe it softens it to for a chemical reaction/bond. The only time you don't use primer is if you are using ABS Pipe which is black. On the job we use purple for inspection, prime it, glue it within 5 minutes or you have to re-prime the pipe and put it together and give it a 1/4 turn. The most important part is to have a square joint (straight Cut), PVC fitting seal in the last 1/8 to 1/4 inch where it has a slight taper so if you cut the pipe crocked you might end up with a leak! You can cut the pipe with a chop saw that you would use for molding or 2x4's in a house.

[uncleof6]

Definetly use PRIMER, you don't need to use the purple unless you are getting a plumbing inspection, The primer doesn't just clean the pipe it softens it to for a chemical reaction/bond. The only time you don't use primer is if you are using ABS Pipe which is black. On the job we use purple for inspection, prime it, glue it within 5 minutes or you have to re-prime the pipe and put it together and give it a 1/4 turn. The most important part is to have a square joint (straight Cut), PVC fitting seal in the last 1/8 to 1/4 inch where it has a slight taper so if you cut the pipe crocked you might end up with a leak! You can cut the pipe with a chop saw that you would use for molding or 2x4's in a house.


PVC cement is a solvent based system. It does not create a chemical bond. It is strictly a mechanical "melt" process.
Not to be rude, but honestly, I don't know where some of these notions come from.

Let's review:

As stated, you need no primer at all. REPEAT: NO PRIMER AT ALL. Code only requires it in cases where the pipe is 4" in diameter or larger. It is also recommended for spaflex. Just use it, then immediately follow it up with the glue and finish the joint.

The continued recommendation for the use of primer on this small diameter, NEW pipe, is simply drinking the cool aid spewed forth by the glue company's-- to boost primer sales: because no one wanted to bother with it-- because it was not necessary.

If a socket joint fails, it is because it was not glued properly, not because primer was used. 99.9% of the time, the joint would have failed even if primer was used: because the person applying it did not know what they were doing. For those that deal in the .1 percentile range, yeah I had a pipe spring a leak-- after I hit it with a rototiller, snapped the pipe in half, but the joints held. So much for the .1% over thirty something years..... ;)

Jim

[liquidplumber]

Well I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion, However In New Jersey it is CODE to use primer as well as New York (Hence Purple primer), not sure about the west coast, I,ve been a Licensed Plumber for almost 14 years now and have been in this trade for close to 20, and have nothing to gain from primer and glue company's. I can tell you countless stories off customers I have visited to fix some silly mistakes DIY homeowners make day in and day out that could have been avoided by using primer. The most important thing is to have strait cuts. Just trying to help out, now if you asked me about reefs I am no Pro. Cheers

[nanonubey]

No Primer equals weaker joints. Does'nt mean a joint without won't hold up over time. Sure glue companies like selling more products but thats not why they make primer. In the plumbing trade we use new products and techniques as time goes on because they are proven to be better. For instance we vent every drain now and they flow much better. Just my 2 cents.

[tozzi]

Primer primer primer

[tozzi]

I have stock in oatey :)

Notice none of the plumbers that responded said not to use primer.
Would they no better because they use it everyday?
Or would a diy'er know better cause they do a project every 7 yrs?

[xrunner1234]

That's because they're in bed with the glue companies!!:dance:

[TAB]

just something I figured I would pass along. they now have a primer and solvent in a spray can. If your like me, the can is always dry when you go to use it. it seems to work well.

[Abaddon]

I agree with the guys who said 1) you should use the purple primer and 2) you should use it and then cement and press the pieces together immediately. I've done light plumbing work (and worked with many plumbers) for years and you'll see plumbers buying the same sized cans of each and taping them together. That's because where ever the primer is, that's also where the cement is. Keep them together and always use them both.

[zeusfc]

Not a plumber, but a pool maintenance engineer here...

I've used the blue cement without a primer for aplications above the waterline where the water is under negative pressure (suction), but have seen joints at just 1/2m below, fail when Spa-flex is used without primer, (under about 10psi pressure). I've also seen cement-only seams "weep" where no primer was used on either side of the pump. IMO, the extra cost is worth it for the extra piece of mind.

[BeanAnimal]

Spa-flex is a different beast.... I have had the best results priming the HARD side but not the soft side when using regular PVC cement. When using spa-flex, a heavy body cement (or one labled for flex PVC use) really should be used.

[EMills5413]

The first thing is that solvent welding is a chemical fusion. Glues are bonding adhesives and solvent cements are not glues.
Most PVC or CPVC fittings have an interference fit. This means the fitting socket has a slight taper so the inside of the socket is slightly smaller than the outside, and the pipe and fitting are touching. Thus the name "interference fit".
The key to any solvent cement joint is to get a good fusion between the pipe and fitting at the bottom of the fitting socket, or the tight point of the taper.
To achieve proper fusion the pipe and fitting are primed to soften the plastic. Unless the plastic is softened fusion cannot take place and the likely result is a weak surface bond, and the joint is likely to fail.
Never let the primer completely dry or the pipe will simply harden again.

[TheFishMan65]

Emills, are you talking about primer or the glue? I read this thread a while back and you have me confused. I have watched plumber, not they necessarily do it right, prime everything and let it dry. Now the glue that should be done quickly.

[syrinx]

I do plumbing work all the time as a contractor- and best practice is just that- use primer and cement as directed.

[BeanAnimal]

A large portion of those who practice ANY trade do not follow standard or acceptable procedures. This includes plumbers, electricians, framers, finishers, tile setters, roofers, drywallers, doctors, engineers, or any other learned trade or job. The reasons range from poor training to utter stupidity, from laziness to contempt for procedure, from not giving a rats *** about doing quality work to trying to make a quick buck.

Think of it another way: For every A in a class, there are likely 2 B's 5 C's 2 D's and an F. So out of 11 trained professionals at least 8 of them (the C's D's and F's) are not capable of doing a quality job. 3 of them are acceptable with only 1 being the guy you would want patching your roof or operating on you. That is just the raw ability and training, then add in the bad days, laziness, quick buck, not caring and other reasons and it is easy to say that in most cases, when you watch a trade at work, you are seeing a whole lot of stuff being done wrong :)

Without exageration, maybe 1 in every 200 (500?) tradespersons is the kind of person that you can turn lose on a job and expect the work to be done right all the time. That is why finding a good contractor is so darn hard.

Primer is not meant to dry, the glue should be added while the primer is wet.

[noahm]

A large portion of those who practice ANY trade do not follow standard or acceptable procedures. This includes plumbers, electricians, framers, finishers, tile setters, roofers, drywallers, doctors, engineers, or any other learned trade or job. The reasons range from poor training to utter stupidity, from laziness to contempt for procedure, from not giving a rats *** about doing quality work to trying to make a quick buck.

Think of it another way: For every A in a class, there are likely 2 B's 5 C's 2 D's and an F. So out of 11 trained professionals at least 8 of them (the C's D's and F's) are not capable of doing a quality job. 3 of them are acceptable with only 1 being the guy you would want patching your roof or operating on you. That is just the raw ability and training, then add in the bad days, laziness, quick buck, not caring and other reasons and it is easy to say that in most cases, when you watch a trade at work, you are seeing a whole lot of stuff being done wrong :)

Without exageration, maybe 1 in every 200 (500?) tradespersons is the kind of person that you can turn lose on a job and expect the work to be done right all the time. That is why finding a good contractor is so darn hard.

Primer is not meant to dry, the glue should be added while the primer is wet.

I see this all the time, and it boggles my mind how many people blindly believe whatever some doctor, engineer, lawyer, or licensed whatever has told them without making one single attempt at verification, especially considering their proximity to the internet. I see engineering students all the time who have no business engineering toilet paper, but will get that degree with C's and D's all over the place.

[BeanAnimal]

I can't have a contractor in my home! It drives me insane to see somebody do improper work, let alone me paying for it in my own home.

[grouper therapy]

T



That is simply not the truth. The primer plays an integral role in creating a strong leak free joint. If the manufacturers and independent testing showed that primer was not needed, then it would not be a requirement of the building code.

Very little of the national building, plumbing and electric code is the result of politics or poorly thought out rules. It is not written to keep the average dolt from making a mistake and it is not centered around overkill. The code is written to be read by skilled tradespeople who already have specific training in their craft. In most cases, the codes are the result of decades of experience, manufacturers input and independent scientific testing. The plumbing code calls for primer because primer has been proven to create a better, stronger, more consistent joint. Telling people that primer is not needed on high pressure joints is passing incorrect information, something that is never a good idea.

A large portion of those who practice ANY trade do not follow standard or acceptable procedures. This includes plumbers, electricians, framers, finishers, tile setters, roofers, drywallers, doctors, engineers, or any other learned trade or job. The reasons range from poor training to utter stupidity, from laziness to contempt for procedure, from not giving a rats *** about doing quality work to trying to make a quick buck.

Think of it another way: For every A in a class, there are likely 2 B's 5 C's 2 D's and an F. So out of 11 trained professionals at least 8 of them (the C's D's and F's) are not capable of doing a quality job. 3 of them are acceptable with only 1 being the guy you would want patching your roof or operating on you. That is just the raw ability and training, then add in the bad days, laziness, quick buck, not caring and other reasons and it is easy to say that in most cases, when you watch a trade at work, you are seeing a whole lot of stuff being done wrong :)

Without exageration, maybe 1 in every 200 (500?) tradespersons is the kind of person that you can turn lose on a job and expect the work to be done right all the time. That is why finding a good contractor is so darn hard.

Primer is not meant to dry, the glue should be added while the primer is wet.

Are these the same ones that wrote the building codes. If so I don't think much of there abilities either. Not sure about that logic!

[TAB]

I can't have a contractor in my home! It drives me insane to see somebody do improper work, let alone me paying for it in my own home.

LOL, there are 3 ways to do something...

The right way

The Wrong way

My way.

The clients that are "My Way" are always the worst.

I always love when a client wants something done one way, but code says the other... :lol:

A perfect example from last week. I was installing a tankless water heater... new gas line, blah blah blah... they bought the unit. They bought a exteroir, with a direct vent. which would have been fine if it was going outside... it wasn't it was going in a attic, in replacement of the standard water heater. The vent would have been directly under the ridge beam...( about 3') they could not figure out why I would not install it.

:lmao:

[grouper therapy]

Are these the same ones that wrote the building codes. If so I don't think much of there abilities either. Not sure about that logic!
Or my spelling!!:wildone:

[TAB]

Are these the same ones that wrote the building codes. If so I don't think much of there abilities either. Not sure about that logic!

Most building codes are written after there is a issue of some kind.( real or in some ones mind)

Well that and them looking for away to increase revenue. :hammer:


I could tell you about some local codes that will just make you go ***. I can also tell you about some federal laws/codes that will make you go ***.
The new lead rules come to mind. :bounce2:

[BeanAnimal]

"look buddy I don't care what you say, I am not paying for plenum rated cable. There is already thousands of feet of riser up there, the last guy said it wasn't a problem."

But it's a PLENUM space....


I deal with it every day in one form or another :)

[grouper therapy]

After 25 years of residential framing/interior trim and specializing in circular staircases I have seen my fair share of changes in residential building codes. Most of them IMO were wise moves . The biggest problem I have encountered was the misinterpretation of them by unqualified inspectors.

[BeanAnimal]

Are these the same ones that wrote the building codes. If so I don't think much of there abilities either. Not sure about that logic!

As TAB mention, CODE is based on a lot of things.

In many cases, it is well founded and the result of prior mishaps or catastrophic events. In many cases, the resulting code is very will thought out even if the average contractor begs to differ. In most cases the contractor or tradesperson simply does not understand the ramifications of not following the code, I.E. the big picture.

Sadly, you will find code examples that are (as TAB pointed out) the result of some nitwit trying to fix something that isn't broken. In many cases, these codes are a PITA but do little harm. If they are too invasive they get amended out in due time due to the number of complaints and the fact that they can be proven pointless.

By far the WORST code examples to be found are those that have a political or financial interest behind them. These come in a few basic forms.

An example would be a code that makes it hard or impossible for competition to enter a trade by making licensing impossible or too expensive or time consuming. This is a favored trick of local unions, and/or local monopolies. They have an established base and fight to enact training or licensing requirements that they are grandfathered out of.

Another example would be codes that promote a product or technology that is exclusive to one manufacturer or small group of manufacturers.

Lastly, there are codes that are designed to transfer wealth or change peoples behavior based on political agendas, environmental activism or social justice. I will let you use your imagination as to what these may be, as the discussion is not appropriate for this forum.

[BeanAnimal]

After 25 years of residential framing/interior trim and specializing in circular staircases I have seen my fair share of changes in residential building codes. Most of them IMO were wise moves . The biggest problem I have encountered was the misinterpretation of them by unqualified inspectors.

Yes misinterpretation of code is a HUGE problem in every industry from construction to mining to small business OSHA enforcement. In many cases it is due to improper training or simple lack of intellect or logic on the part of the inspector. However, because they have a "badge" and their say is pretty much final, they don't often get corrected. When somebody is allowed to use poor reasoning or logic without being corrected and do so with the force of the law, they tend to be immune to learning the proper way of doing things. A well intentioned, logical inspector or enforcement officer can be reasoned with. It is a shame that, like good contractors, they are few and far between.

[TAB]

After 25 years of residential framing/interior trim and specializing in circular staircases I have seen my fair share of changes in residential building codes. Most of them IMO were wise moves . The biggest problem I have encountered was the misinterpretation of them by unqualified inspectors.

Oh yeah... The lack of qualified inspectors is a real issue. There are several in the area here that just took a corse and got a cert... :fun4: Whats worse is they are also "floating" them around. you could call for say a plumbing inspection, and get a framing inspector.

There is a small college town not too far from me... On the books they have a code that says if you open up any plumbing system, you have to get a permit and inpection. I mean any, even something as simple as running a snake thru a clean out or a wax ring needs a permit and inspection. They also have a law that says they must inspect any house before its sold. The 1st 2 things they always check is the disposal and the dishwasher. They check the date of manufactor. If it does not jive, with the permits that have been pulled. you get fined, and they make you replace the units with permits( at 3x the normal rate btw)and inspections.

That is a great example of a code to increase revenue. Oh yeah they also have not issused a new construction permit in about 5 years, to keep the housing prices high :rolleyes: The rest of the county is great, very little "odd ball" codes and they really want to help you. unlike the county I live in.. Then again its mostly farm land with rednecks and country boys... I fit in great.

[noahm]

What about purple primer....? ;) poor OP

[BeanAnimal]

Don't some people use it to paint their white PVC in hopes of making it look like coraline coverd PVC instead of white PVC painted with purple primer?

[grouper therapy]

What about purple primer....? ;) poor OP

I'd recommend using it ! I don't but I do a few things in life I don't recommend for others.

[grouper therapy]

Yes misinterpretation of code is a HUGE problem in every industry from construction to mining to small business OSHA enforcement. In many cases it is due to improper training or simple lack of intellect or logic on the part of the inspector. However, because they have a "badge" and their say is pretty much final, they don't often get corrected. When somebody is allowed to use poor reasoning or logic without being corrected and do so with the force of the law, they tend to be immune to learning the proper way of doing things. A well intentioned, logical inspector or enforcement officer can be reasoned with. It is a shame that, like good contractors, they are few and far between.

Very true!!
I'll tell what is even more difficult to find is a homeowner that knows the difference between quality professional contractors and the opposites.
Even more amazing is to find a homeowner that wants to pay for such an individual . They are much rarer than a quality contractor. These unqualified contractors are a direct result of these homeowners/ clients that shop the cheapest price. I say do away with codes and buyer beware.

[noobtothereef]

primer is not needed, its pointless for what we are doing.... primer is needed to make a strong joint, but thats ona pressurized system, we might see 1 psi, dont waste the money..... and the purple mess.....

[Camel413]

I always apply primer then cement while primer is still wet then attach pipe. My question is after a few joints my cement turns purple and gets all thick and globby, is this normal? What am I doing wrong? All of my joints look good, dont leak and have held for years but I go through a lot of cement because I always replace it after it starts to glob up on me.

[BeanAnimal]

The primer is the same basic stuff as the cement, but it does not have any PVC monomers (plastic) in it. It is just solvent. It will not harm the cement :)

Cement turns globby after a while, as some of the solvent evaporates and the PVC monomers start to harden. As remove cement from the can air and moisture take the place where there was once cement. The trapped air and moisture are not doing you any favors. As frustrating as it is, the cement does not have a long shelf life once you open it and use some of it.

[Aporia]

You don't need the glue just dry fit everything. Glue was invented by the evil glue corporation to sell unnecessary primer. :lol:

[jrapp13]

Use purple primer. Too easy to pull other stuff apart

[TAB]

You don't need the glue just dry fit everything. Glue was invented by the evil glue corporation to sell unnecessary primer. :lol:

Acutally beleave it or not, our low pessure systems are fine with out glue.

Now I don't recomend it, but you can do it and be fine.

[Aporia]

I believe you TAB I have seen it done! I believe in the design philosophy of when in doubt build it stout :confused: so long as the cost of building it stout is reasonable. In this case the $10 glue/primmer is in the noise floor relative to the rest of my equipment and livestock.

[kimowen04]

how long do i let the primer sit on the pipes before putting the cement on?
Thanks

also any tips on glueing the pieces together are welcome!

lol. you glue right away. put on the purple prime then put on the orange glue and immediately fit together tight. id only wait a couple hrs after u glue to try out.Ive done plenty of plumbing on my house.

[TheFishMan65]

You are supposed to let the glue sit for 24 hours before adding water. I never have, but does anyone know how important this is?

[noahm]

You are supposed to let the glue sit for 24 hours before adding water. I never have, but does anyone know how important this is?

This actually varies from product to product (from a couple hours to 24), but for the purposes of the hobby, if you can't pull it apart, it isn't going anywhere. I usually wait about an hour unless it needs to go back online. The main thing is not to put stress on it while it is in the initial fusing stage (usually a few minutes for smaller pipe). This can cause internal damage to the bond and leaking.

I always used Red Hot Blue glue and waited an hour for landscape irrigation jobs.

Interesting to this thread, it specifically says no primer is required unless by code on the tech sheet (http://www.tchristy.com/SpecSheets/RedHotRegular.pdf).

[jrapp13]

Acutally beleave it or not, our low pessure systems are fine with out glue.

Now I don't recomend it, but you can do it and be fine.

I have several dry fit joints in my current system. Almost all of them have a high degree of salt creep, indicating that they weep if they aren't ever glued together. None of the glue joints have that problem at all.

Interesting to this thread, it specifically says no primer is required unless by code on the tech sheet.

Thats what the whole thread should be in a nutshell. Do the instructions on the can say to use primer? If yes, proceed with primer. If using this Hot blue, it looks like just cement is fine. I do all my work with Oatey products, they say to use primer; I'm going to use primer.