Any one build the stand with T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion

[sahicharles]

Just wondering if any one build their stand with T-Slotted aluminum from 80/20 or similar. I am planing a new tank 48"x48"x24" and looking into build the stand with aluminum. If any one had the experience with stand built with aluminum, could you post some pictures and the thoughts of pros and cons compare to steel stand.

[BeanAnimal]

The material is suitable from a structural standpoint. However, it may not fare will from an aesthetic standpoint after prolonged saltwater splashing and spills :)

[sahicharles]

Thanks for your reply. Are you saying after using for a long time there will be some stain on the surface because of chemical? I thought those extrusion have some kind of coating on top. Well, mainly I am just more concern about the weight load for the structure.

[BeanAnimal]

If you call 80/20 they can help you with design engineering and sizing the members for your application, but the short answers is that the material is structurally suitable.

Coating or not, I would imagine the spills, salt creep, etc will take its toll. Likely not a structural problem (you will need to use stainless fasteners) but more cosmetic.

[sahicharles]

I really appreciated your comment especially with fasteners issue which I didn't think about it until you mentioned, I will definitely ask the distributor about it. I guess now just need to find out what profile to use and how much will cost.

[Kahuna]

If it's anodized, the clouding should be minimal. Be careful in your design regarding racking.

Kev

[sahicharles]

Thanks, the parts were been order and waiting for deliver next week. The design is pretty simple, a stand box structure could withhold the weight of the tank and a light rail attached in the back of the stand.

[Kahuna]

I wish you luck. I'm working on the same concept for a 300DD tank.

Kev

[trackhazard]

Some pics of aluminum profile stand:

http://glassbox-design.com/2009/3-unique-aquarium-builds-from-japan/

This is something that I've wanted to try for a while.

-Charlie

[sahicharles]

Kev, if you need help on design or choosing the profiles to use for the stand, I can refer you the distributor I am working with, just let me know.

Charlie, thaks for the link, I saw the first build from other forum and that's what got me starting the research and decided to use extrusion aluminum instead of wood or metal stand.

[Hdhuntr01]

I have used a lot of 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion for light racks and such. I usuaally use the 10 Series but recently bought some 15 Series for a specific Rack. I can tell you without doubt it is structurally sounds. I wouldn't hesitate to use it for building a stand. Just make sure you use suitable joining plates or connectors. They typically have the extrusion in annodized black and so far every piece of annodized black I have ever used did not show any sign of discoloration from prolongedcontact with salt spray. If I were to build a stand out of 80/20 extrusion I would do so with the 15 Series that has been annodized either in gray or black. I honestly believe it would far outlast the tank.

[rotts4u]

It sounds like a great idea to me

[ReefDoggie]

Thinking of using 80/20 for a stand and found that amazon sells everything I found in their catalog.

[Hdhuntr01]

I have bought a lot of 80/20 Extrusion off eBay at better prices than retail.

[GreshamH]

The material is suitable from a structural standpoint. However, it may not fare will from an aesthetic standpoint after prolonged saltwater splashing and spills :)

Shhh don't tell Live Aquaria... they've hauled that 80/20 stand to quite a few shows, it looks brand new every time I see it (I bet the crew polishes it up though)

[Hdhuntr01]

The finish will hold up very well. Just ensure you get the annodized extrusion. It comes in Black or Silver Annodized.

[dorky]

wow i didnt think it would be possible to use the 80/20 for stand because of the support of the weight. Where can i find a 80/20 beside amazon? I am having hard time finding the anodize 80/20.

[Hdhuntr01]

Here is where I buy it directly from the manufacturer...
http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale

[aus996]

interesting, i hadnt considered this option but I dont know if I would fall within the structural specs I am looking at a 5 x 2.5 x 2. Although I suppose anything can be built to withstand the weight At the risk of hijacking this thread any thoughts on this.
Could always jump across to "show us your steel stands thread" and start an alloy line :-)

[sahicharles]

My tank is 4x4x2 and the stand is 4x4x3, so far no problem with the weigh. You should work with a distributor to discuss about your project so they can help you to determine which profile to use for building the stand.

You could get the good price from 80/20 ebay store, but you might not find the length you want which might required you to cut or tape the holes on profiles. And unless you know which profile to use for stand, it's dangerous to just get anything from ebay and building the stand.

Just to let you guys who are interested using Aluminum Extrusion know about this, 80/20 is not the only mfg. in U.S. to make Aluminum Extrusion.

[madean]

well looking at this product it seems to be pretty expensive. I am looking at building a 36" x 30" stand and Im looking at $700 plus for materials. This is just for the 8' stock at the 15s material. I am looking at roughly $300 for materials for steel. I will agree that it seems to be pretty easy to cut and assemble with the aluminum as opposed to steel. I have access to a pretty good welder. I guess if you had to pay for a welder to weld for you the cost would probably be a wash. I could see the assembly could be significantly quicker compaired to welding. I have to admit that there are some pretty cool components that could be used. ie like a swivelling pivot point to possibly rotate your light on and off the tank. I guess if you were on a tight budget you could also buy a few components every paycheck until you got what you needed. I have yet to see someone sell this stuff by the foot yet or sell it in 20' sticks like steel. And at roughly $10-20 a linear foot (series 15) there would be a lot of waste which means money down the drain for me. This is tuff.

Decisions, decisions... hmmm

[madean]

Ok so doing more research I have found a few places that sell by the foot and it is pretty cheap for the material, its just all the little connectors with nuts and bolts and cut charges that get ya. I have to say though it's pretty nice and versatile. The sky is the limit on what you can come up with. But after its all said and done it does seem to be around $10-20 a linear foot after everything is taken into account.

[username in use]

well looking at this product it seems to be pretty expensive. I am looking at building a 36" x 30" stand and Im looking at $700 plus for materials.

What size are you pricing out and where are you finding it? It doesn't need to be the larges size. I just priced out the frame for a 48x18x36 stand, just the frame without the connectors, and it came to $275. 1.5x1.5 is priced at .572 /inch and the 1.5x3 ( for the top rail) is .886/inch

Even if your stand was 36x36x36 you should only be looking at about $375 for the frame.

[TropTrea]

You do have loads of options with alumnium and I have seen more than just a few of them.

Some helpful hints.

1. to prevent racking either a surface material on at least one side and the back is great or else use an angle suport. Even 1/4" plywood on 2 sides will assure not racking.

2. Alumnium even if t is anodized is subject to chemical reaction with salt water. It is only cosmetic but a coat of a clear finish over it will reduce it considerably. Some alumnium is already coated especialy acrutecterial alumnium.

[madean]

1.5" x 3" is as you quoted .866/inch x 12 is a little over $10. Add all the connectors, price to cut, price for hardware, price to ship if your not close to a distributor. It all adds up. I am designing a canopy that is a little different then the normal box on top of the tank, and its looking like it will be close to the $300 range after its all said and done with out a wood skin. I thought about doing an aluminum plate or acrylic skin instead of a wood skin but I don't have AutoCAD and I don't know if I want to be off with my math, I could probably figure it out, its just the fact that if I am going to pay that much for a machined skin, I want it to be perfect. I don't know, maybe I will go for it. I just have odd angles in the canopy. Like in the 50-55 degree range that would need to be matched with a pivot nub on top of the aluminum profile. The nub basically allows me to have the odd angle transition from my lower frame to the upper frame. I will try and post a picture of what I am doing tonight. If I get around to designing it on google sketch up. This is what is driving the cost up for me on my canopy.

[madean]

So between the 1515 and 1530 profile and the price per cut charge, the 40 or 50 brackets and gussets needed- I am looking in the $600 range. I still need to price the hardware- I dont think that will be too much more. So then I will either need to drive between 30-60 mintutes to one of three distributors located close to me, or have the package shipped to me. Hence the $700 rough estimate, oh forgot about taxes.

I have an acrylic tank that will need center support as well, that might make a difference if you have a framed glass tank that only needs perimeter support.

So for me thats roughly 40' or so of 1515 or 1530 profile putting me in my earlier estimate of $10-20 a linear foot. It puts me closer to the higher end, but i would rather over engineer this stand then to get the bare minimum and possibly have an issue down the road. I am investing way too much with this project to skimp on a stand design. Unfortunately or fortunately, i guess if its my point of view or my wifes, everything is damn near custom. The tank, stand, canopy, a very nice light, possibly diy rock or commercially produce cermamic rock, a custom acrylic sump and the list goes on and on. I am not trying to have the "mine is better than yours" stupid arguement, I am more or less pointing out that I have invested a lot of time and money over a long period of time-almost years. I am trying to take what others have done and put my own stamp on what is right for me in this build. I still stand by my $10-20 per linear foot estimate though.


With all of this being said, my canopy design is crazy outrageously expensive. And its all in the connectors. My design uses the 1010 profile and its basically a bottom rack that is 36 x 30 that transitions to the top rack which is 26 x 20 and there is 9" rise from the bottom rack to the top rack. from rack to rack there are 2 angled profiles per face for a total of 8 angled pieces. To get a clean look and transition from the bottom rack to the top rack, it would cost roughly $41 worth of connectors and hardware including the profile. So multiply that by 8 and add the cost of the upper and lower profiles plus connectors and mounting hardware. So... looking at over $400 for the frame alone, and this does not even include the wood skin. I think i am leaning towards a wood skin. I want the front facing part of the canopy to have a door that rotates up to access the tank for feeding and cleaning. I want the right side to do the same as well but it will probably have a slightly smaller access door that hinges up. I am thinking of a piano hinge, that will be slightly hidden by trim. But I 20' stick of 1" square tube 1/8" thick is really starting to sound good right now for $30. My buddy offered to weld it for me, and I might be going that route. It just involves more work and more potential for the canopy to not be square, thus making it harder to accomplish my goal of a nice clean look. Always decisions.

[madean]

As promised here is my canopy design.
<a href="http://s1156.photobucket.com/albums/p567/mikenalecia/?action=view&amp;current=canopynew_zpsfe5f0e80.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p567/mikenalecia/canopynew_zpsfe5f0e80.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I built 3 different canopy frames out of really cheap wood from HD. This design seems to catch my eye the most and seems to be the most functional. I wanted to see what clearances I would have when accessing the "designed" door area for feeding and cleaning. The original design was to have, since this started as a steel stand idea, was to have steel come the back of the stand and 90 towards me and be an open design showing the Ati dimmable sunpower off. Then I came to the decision that the light spill would bother me and the family while we were in that room watching tv since the tank would be at our backs and the glare would show in the tv. Hence the canopy was born.
And as to show my stand design.
<a href="http://s1156.photobucket.com/albums/p567/mikenalecia/?action=view&amp;current=steel3b_zpsc1c56d09.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p567/mikenalecia/steel3b_zpsc1c56d09.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

The top rail is 1.5" x 3" and so are the 4 vertical corner supports. The inner frame might be 1.5" x 3" and I might keep it 1.5" x 1.5". The idea is that all 4 top rails are supported by the 4 vertical corners. The inner supports on the top and bottom rails help support the acrylic tank and sump. This design is subject to change as well since i have ideas of incorporating a walled off area for all of my electronics- apex equipement. Just toying with the idea of keeping the electronics seperate from any water source or humidity issues . This might be a section on the right side about 6" or so deep running the length from back to front. Which would leave me roughly 30" x 30" underneath the tank. I might just half that area and further customize the sump into more of an "L" shaped sump. More decisions. Lots of decisions....

[madean]

I have also been toying with the idea of putting some type of rail system on the back of the canopy to use linear actuators to raise and lower the canopy say 24-30" for more in depth tank or light maintenance. Or possibly have the canopy swivel to the right. Basically my only idea that I have come up for this is to weld, clamp or attach a threaded pipe from the canopy to a double female fire hos connector. The other side of the double female fire hose connector would have a pipe attached to the stand some how. The double female fire hose connector has enough "play" in it to swivel one direction to another. Im not sure on how much "play" there is yet on the connector, and I am sure I would need to angle it a bit to offset the weight of the canopy and light as it sagged when installed. Hmm.

[ReefDoggie]

This is something I thew together using SolidWorks files downloaded from the 80/20 webpage. Dimensions are 72L x 36W x 36H for a 300 gallon tank


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vC9XB0L5tkI/UTFKhYgb_ZI/AAAAAAAAADo/_wCIuScTGLI/s907/3-1-2013+7-34-35+PM.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RQdDfxJUTcI/UTFMhUaKjMI/AAAAAAAAAD4/URTXCKHBXcw/s965/3-1-2013+7-47-48+PM.jpg

[buckeyereefer1]

WOOHOO !!!:dance: just finalized the drawing and placed order for 93G cube tank. should be picking it up in about a week.

[madean]

If you dont mind would you tell us what you paid and maybe submit a design to show others what it will look like. If not i understand.

[BFG]

A large reef tank using the aluminium erector.

http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=608295

[Christian J]

As an alternative to using screws, some profile systems let you use solid core aluminium connectors:

http://uk.porsa.dk/products/aquariumtables/
http://uk.porsa.dk/products/alubuildingsystems/connectorssquare/

This kind of stand is very light weight, easy to transport home (in parts) and easy to assemble. I have no idea if you can take it apart and put it together repeatedly without wearing off the plastic coating on the connectors, though.

On the down side the tubes are slightly flexible, allowing you to make a larger filled tank rock back and forth slightly by pushing it. I think the tubes are strong enough to handle this, and the connectors didn't wiggle out the slightest when I tried it, but the experience was a bit scary. Maybe such movement can put too much strain on the tank as well.

The stand looks a bit ugly, but you can always skin it by glueing sliding door rails or magnets to it.

I don't know how well the surface finish holds up to contact with salt water, personally I never allowed any salt residue to remain on it (if you do you may not care about looks anyway...). In any case I suggest always preventing salt residues to build up for your electrical safety.

[HippieSmell]

Are there any guides for choosing what size rails are needed for a tank stand? Also, how heavy is this stuff? The reason I ask is I have a place locally that sells used pieces by the pound.

My tank is a Marineland 150DD (36"x36" footprint). Any help is appreciated.

[HippieSmell]

Here's a nice load calculator: Calculate your load! (http://www.tslots.com/deflection-calculator)

Man, this stuff is strong. For a 150 gallon tank, with a 36"x36" footprint, it says I can use a 1"x2" piece of aluminum for the spans (assuming I did the calculations correctly). Does that sound reasonable?

[OranguTang]

Funny I was just researching this for my new setup and BAM you guys have a thread for it. I was going to use the 1.5x3 15 series they have that is anodized black. On my mac right now but that calc you linked looks cool I will give it a try on my other workstation and see what it says.

[SteviesReef]

This stuff would be great for building brackets for lights, reactors, etc.!

[KeithB]

This is awesome looking stuff. Tagging along.

[drock59]

Does anyone have ideas on how to attach the 80/20 to wood? I am trying to mount my t slot light rail to the back of my stand, but I am not certain how to do this. :beer:

[madean]

Check out there catalog, there is stuff in there that will work. A bolt where the by head goes inside the slots would work as well. So I guess you would call it a t slotted bolt. The threads will stick out and you simy drill a hole in the wood and slide the bolt through the wood and put a washer, lock washer and a nut on and tighten. If you want a cleaner look well then you will probably need to get a little more creative. Where are you trying to attach the wood to? Is the wood going under the tank or are you trying to skin the stand?

[Andre Rosario]

Nice work!

+1 Tagging along.

[sahicharles]

Get the right size or type of T-Nuts to fit in the slot of profile and use Insinde Corner Bracket to fasten the profile and wood together. That's how I attached the plywood on top of the stand.

[HippieSmell]

This is something I thew together using SolidWorks files downloaded from the 80/20 webpage. Dimensions are 72L x 36W x 36H for a 300 gallon tank


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vC9XB0L5tkI/UTFKhYgb_ZI/AAAAAAAAADo/_wCIuScTGLI/s907/3-1-2013+7-34-35+PM.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RQdDfxJUTcI/UTFMhUaKjMI/AAAAAAAAAD4/URTXCKHBXcw/s965/3-1-2013+7-47-48+PM.jpg
How would the corner pieces be attached to the legs and spans? I like your idea over using the gusset plates they offer. Cheaper. Maybe.

[buckeyereefer1]

Hippiesmell
the corner pieces are bolted to legs and the top span pieces. so they have to be machined to accept the hardware. but still should be cheaper than the gusset plates an hardware.

[HippieSmell]

Oh man, I got some stuff! I got enough used Bosch extrusion and heavy duty connectors to build a stand for my 150. Got it all for $250, which is pretty good, I think.

I'll post pics of progress when my miter saw gets here and I can start putting it together.

[dorky]

Oh man, I got some stuff! I got enough used Bosch extrusion and heavy duty connectors to build a stand for my 150. Got it all for $250, which is pretty good, I think.

I'll post pics of progress when my miter saw gets here and I can start putting it together.

cant wait to see ur build

[HippieSmell]

So, I have a question, but I think I already know the answer. The guy I bought the extrusion from (who was an engineer I think) said I could connect the spans to the SIDE of the legs, not laying across the top. Is this stuff that strong? The corner gussets I have are big die cast things with 4 t-nuts (2 on each side), but I don't think I trust 2 t-nuts on the side to prevent the span from sliding down with a tank on it.

Thoughts?

[woodnaquanut]

So, I have a question, but I think I already know the answer. The guy I bought the extrusion from (who was an engineer I think) said I could connect the spans to the SIDE of the legs, not laying across the top. Is this stuff that strong? The corner gussets I have are big die cast things with 4 t-nuts (2 on each side), but I don't think I trust 2 t-nuts on the side to prevent the span from sliding down with a tank on it.

Thoughts?

I have no idea about the 'can it be done' aspect. I'd never trust the structure to the bolts alone. Seems like putting the spans on top of the legs is a lot stronger.

[HippieSmell]

Yeah, that's what I'll do, I think. The gussets I have are rated for 1300 lbs, and I have eight, but why take the chance? Those nuts really grab though. I barely hand tightened them and it wasn't moving at all.

Does anyone know if lock washers should be used with the t-nuts?

[madean]

To to 80/20 website and look at the calculators. They will help you see how strong your profile is and what deflection you could expect to see. If you look at the steel stand thread I asked about deflection characteristics and what is acceptable limits and I can't remember what the values were but search the thread or contact kcress about it and he should be able to point you in the right direction about deflection values and see what the deflection calculators on 80/20 website tells you for what setup your trying to accomplish. I do remember the extrusion not being as structurally strong if your mounting on the side as opposed to the top like we traditionally do.
The extrusion is not that expensive at all, it's all the connectors and plates and hardware needed to make it sound that kind of jacks the price up. I have not built my stand yet. I am still going back and forth with wood or steel. I decided against this stuff just because of the price alone. I am fortunate to have access to a welder that will pretty much just charge me for a lunch and some electrical work he needs done. So for me there is a huge price difference between this stuff and a steel stand.

[HippieSmell]

Why can't I get to page three?

Edit: There we go, not sure what was going on.

[jumpmasterrt]

Sorry for the thread resurrection, but did anyone actually complete the builds?

[mcgyvr]

Sorry for the thread resurrection, but did anyone actually complete the builds?

What are you looking for? there are numerous pictures on google images,etc.. of stands built with this and there was another thread from not that long ago that had more "recent" discussion on it I guess..

[Fredfish]

I visited an LFS a couple of weeks ago that used this stuff for all their in store stands and also builds custom stands for clients using the same material. They have a 250 gallon display supported by 1.5" channel.

The only thing he said to make sure of is that you are using anodized aluminum, which apparently is more resistant to salt water.

[mcgyvr]

I visited an LFS a couple of weeks ago that used this stuff for all their in store stands and also builds custom stands for clients using the same material. They have a 250 gallon display supported by 1.5" channel.

The only thing he said to make sure of is that you are using anodized aluminum, which apparently is more resistant to salt water.

Its all anodized aluminum.. :) black or clear.

As long as you don't let the water sit on it repeatably for long long periods of time you will not have a problem..
The steel fasteners used will rust out long before the extrusions show any signs of corrosion. Or get stainless fasteners in "critical" areas.

[Reefvet]

This guy in Canada is building tanks and stands for clients. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1Fux-qmXOs)

Here's a few from around the web.

http://www.framexpert.com/media/uploads/aquariumbig.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MTPGWe50vEA/TbRH-dFIpSI/AAAAAAAACE8/6RWpgxtXNcU/s1600/DSC_0053.JPG

http://www.cbr600rr.com/reef/60_cube/0709/02.jpg

[madean]

Could people post prices, dimensions, and what size profiles they used. Also a picture of what they did. Also whether they bought new or used stuff. That makes a difference in price.

[cr2jones]

I just bought some 1503 and some fastners for my 120gal. I will post a build thread soon.

[johnyfalco]

Just in the process of assembling mine now. I purchased all my extrusion from Faztek, as I really didn't know what size extrusions to use. They drew me up a drawing and were really helpful. I used 38mm x 75mm for the uprights in the corners and 40mm for all the other structural pieces and 25mm for the doors.
Pics soon.

[ArmanS]

Just in the process of assembling mine now. I purchased all my extrusion from Faztek, as I really didn't know what size extrusions to use. They drew me up a drawing and were really helpful. I used 38mm x 75mm for the uprights in the corners and 40mm for all the other structural pieces and 25mm for the doors.
Pics soon.

Pics + Total Cost would be great + your initial impressions!

[jumpmasterrt]

What are you looking for? there are numerous pictures on google images,etc.. of stands built with this and there was another thread from not that long ago that had more "recent" discussion on it I guess..
I saw the Google results but I was looking for RC member input. Could you point to the more "recent" thread please? Thanks. ;)

[jumpmasterrt]

Just in the process of assembling mine now. I purchased all my extrusion from Faztek, as I really didn't know what size extrusions to use. They drew me up a drawing and were really helpful. I used 38mm x 75mm for the uprights in the corners and 40mm for all the other structural pieces and 25mm for the doors.
Pics soon.
I'm very interested in the facing and flooring aspects of the build. Any info would be appreciated.

[johnyfalco]

Pics + Total Cost would be great + your initial impressions!

Pics coming soon. I sent my rough sketch to Misumi, Faztek, and 8020. Misumi didn't reply, 8020 (California distributor) was not really interested in such a small job,but did end up getting a quote about three weeks late. And Faztek were really professional, drew up a cad drawing for me, and numbered all the lengths to show where they go, all up, Faztek were great.
My cabinet has hinged doors all around, so that basically doubled the price.
Faztek was $750 delivered (L.A.) , and 8020's price was $975.
You could do it a lot cheaper if you wanted to have an open cabinet.
Extra to that I also purchased wood grain paneling to enclose the cabinet, and go on the doors, which added another $100 to the cost, but really ended up making it look like a shipping crate. The CFO :debi: likes the look of the cabinet, so that's all that matters.
You can use 6mm acrylic paneling, or various other materials, Faztek have a big selection.
I like the idea of the T-Slot Aluminum extrusions and would do another.

[johnyfalco]

Here is some pics as promised.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetFront4Resized_zpsc1b1e7a4.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetEnd2Resized_zps250058c8.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetInside1Resized_zpse5daf4ff.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetFront3Resized_zps3b36da9c.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetFront2Resized_zps4ff926e6.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetFront1Resized_zps0c155b3a.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetEnd1Resized_zps64a94c34.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetFaztekEnd1_zps7b247a12.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss8/johnyfalco/Aquarium%20Cabinet/AquariumCabinetFaztekEnd2_zpsb1797b48.jpg

[reefwiser]

Nice work Where on the Fastek site do they show their panel insert options?

[supra400hptt]

Here is mine. Faztek & 80/20. I estimate over a grand, but it's so much better than the pine stand I've had for years.

[supra400hptt]

And a couple more.

[Fredfish]

Here is mine. Faztek & 80/20. I estimate over a grand, but it's so much better than the pine stand I've had for years.
Wow, not cheap! Looks amazing though. Your equipment is also incredibly well laid out as well.

[JasonF]

BRS used it for the clown harem tank http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gs1s-9JoVhY

[Raul-7]

I like it, but I prefer how Vertex does it in that video - no centerbrace except in the back and how the decorative shell covers the entire structure; making you think it was a normal stand. How do they do it? I'd love to see their instructions.

[Raul-7]

http://primoreefacrylics.com/

They sell them.

[rjallen]

I like it, but I prefer how Vertex does it in that video - no centerbrace except in the back and how the decorative shell covers the entire structure; making you think it was a normal stand. How do they do it? I'd love to see their instructions.

I have been following this thread for some time. As a regular customer of BRS, I talked with some of the senior staff concerning their Vertex stands. At MACNA, I spent a lot of time at the Vertex booth with their VP of marketing talking about their stands.
1. They are beautiful. Their minimal simple design is quite eloquent. Workmanship fantastic. MACNA 2014 is the second year they have shown these stands. I was told they were a few months away from production. It was not clear but I gathered they have produced a limited production run in Germany.
2. The stand I spent the most time with is the same size as the BRS Clownfish tank. It is called a "120" but is slightly smaller than a standard US 48"X24" US 120 and would not hold our tank. I think they want to market the stand as a package deal with their metric version tanks.
3. The panels are designed to come off easily and allow you to "update" your decor. BRS folks are VERY impressed with these stands with only the smallest concern that the panels are sometimes hard to get properly clicked back into position. I think Vertex is working on this. The fasteners use the t-slot and can be attached w/o tools. The door hinges are interesting as they can be detached and replaced w/o tools as well. You will notice, if you look closely, the front has a slight overhang. This is to give their hinges room.
4. These stands use the metric version of the extrusions and just the simple two screw interior angle attachments. Once they are tightened, the stand is rock solid. I think the size is closest to our 1.5 x 1.5 extrusions. They are slightly larger at 40mm x 40mm. 1.5"= 38.1mm. 80/20 has metric 40mm pieces.
I have enjoyed seeing the other posters stands. The designs are very interesting with some very original ideas. The one thing they all seem to have in common as the all seemed to be grossly overbuilt. Some are using connectors that require some machining. I have been repeatedly advised by engineers the simple interior angle connectors are more than adequate for our purposes. As I said, Vertex uses these same connectors. Machining costs and some of those fancy connectors drastically increase the cost. Your design is your business and the extra costs may give you piece of mind but a little professional engineering consulting could save you bucks.
5. A final point is the horizontal pieces connect with the above angle connectors to the SIDE of the upright pieces. I am not sure as to why as this means cutting down a 48" piece which increases labor and perhaps costs. I would like your input.

RJA

[rjallen]

http://primoreefacrylics.com/

They sell them.

Primo Acrylics do sell aluminum stands and have several You Tube videos and they do seem to sell some Vertex products but I do not believe their product is a Vertex product.

RJA

[TankRazr]

Supra,

That is one slick set up. Where are you located? The wall socket next to the tank doesn't appear to be North American (maybe just old) but the Apex EB8 does. But hard for me to tell.

To the OP - BTW: Forget the name of the company, but there is a large install company back in Florida I believe that used 80/20 a long time ago. Not sure if they still do. At any rate I recall they were using large profiles and supporting very large tanks.

Liking where this thread is going.

TR

[Raul-7]

I also notice they have a 45 degree diagonal center brace connecting the two X-axis pieces.

I'd like to build my stand on their concept; because I really want a wooden shell to cover the aluminum. Do you know how the shell is secured to the aluminum? It looks magnetic, but I know aluminum isn't magnetic.

[Raul-7]

Primo Acrylics do sell aluminum stands and have several You Tube videos and they do seem to sell some Vertex products but I do not believe their product is a Vertex product.

RJA

Ya, I meant they sell the T-aluminum and have all the fittings ready to buy. Also if you send him a quote, he'll cut all the pieces to length - I don't have a circular saw handy.

[neuro]

Here is mine. Faztek & 80/20. I estimate over a grand, but it's so much better than the pine stand I've had for years.

wow great setup!!!

i wanted to ask, what is that red box suspended underneath? also, how is it attached to the frame?

[rjallen]

I also notice they have a 45 degree diagonal center brace connecting the two X-axis pieces.

I'd like to build my stand on their concept; because I really want a wooden shell to cover the aluminum. Do you know how the shell is secured to the aluminum? It looks magnetic, but I know aluminum isn't magnetic.

Raul7
The panels are not magnetic. They appear to attached with a stud that inserts in a nut in the T slot. It is a friction fit and that is what troubled the BRS guys a little as it took a couple of trys to get a firm fit. There is some speculation, and I repeat, speculation, the tight fit might not stand up over time. I would rather use a bolt with screw top with perhaps a cap on the exterior. If you use such the panel would act as a gusset firming the frame even more. When I asked Vertex they replied most of the unfinished development work concerned the enclosures. BTW, I am with you as I want a more traditional look although some of stand photos have a terrific high tech look.

RJA

[Raul-7]

Raul7
The panels are not magnetic. They appear to attached with a stud that inserts in a nut in the T slot. It is a friction fit and that is what troubled the BRS guys a little as it took a couple of trys to get a firm fit. There is some speculation, and I repeat, speculation, the tight fit might not stand up over time. I would rather use a bolt with screw top with perhaps a cap on the exterior. If you use such the panel would act as a gusset firming the frame even more. When I asked Vertex they replied most of the unfinished development work concerned the enclosures. BTW, I am with you as I want a more traditional look although some of stand photos have a terrific high tech look.

RJA

http://download.8020.net/2012_Product_Catalog/Fractional_Section_6_8020_Catalog_18.pdf

Starting at pg. 36 they have latching mechanisms; do you see any that will work?

I'm thinking the Nylon Ball Catch?

[rjallen]

http://download.8020.net/2012_Product_Catalog/Fractional_Section_6_8020_Catalog_18.pdf

Starting at pg. 36 they have latching mechanisms; do you see any that will work?

I'm thinking the Nylon Ball Catch?

From a quick look, I think these latches were designed to be used with doors not the panels. Remember Vertex's solution is not from 80/20 but probably European in orig. Almost all the 80/20 stuff is to hold one T slot framed panel connected to another T slot framed panel. The Vertex solution holds a non T slot panel to a T slot.

RJA

[Raul-7]

From a quick look, I think these latches were designed to be used with doors not the panels. Remember Vertex's solution is not from 80/20 but probably European in orig. Almost all the 80/20 stuff is to hold one T slot framed panel connected to another T slot framed panel. The Vertex solution holds a non T slot panel to a T slot.

RJA

The image shows the ball end locked into a piece of acrylic?

[supra400hptt]

Supra,

That is one slick set up. Where are you located? The wall socket next to the tank doesn't appear to be North American (maybe just old) but the Apex EB8 does. But hard for me to tell.


TR

I'm currently living in Singapore. In four months I'll be moving back to the states, Colorado specifically. Electric here is all 220V so I've got converters all around the house. I'm from the US so all of my electrical stuff is 120V. I've got a military US post office here so I order almost everything from the US from the regular places like BRS or Amazon. The one great thing is there are a couple of tank builders here. That 48" x 29" x 24" 12mm low iron glass tank cost the equivalent of $712 delivered and put in place. So even though I put over a grand into the stand, the cost of the tank made up for it. Corals and fish are also pretty cheap being so close to Indonesia and Australia. Even though my purple tang is from the red sea, it only cost $45. I've seem the same going for $180 in the states so I'm not that enthusiastic about coming back. It will probably cost over a grand easily to duplicate my livestock that cost less than $500.

Back to the stand, like rjallen said, in my case the stand is grossly over built. 24 x $8 ($192) for the corner connectors. $106 dollars for the 80/20 lift off door hinges. $160 for the 18mm acrylic top. $150 for the aluminum composite door panels. That's over $600 before even buying the 16 aluminum bars, the overlay on the panels, and over 50 bolts that are mostly hidden. There are also gussets on the top perimeter. The hardware is what adds up if you go my route. Primo and Vertex are using simple gussets which save a lot of cost. Also had to buy a decent miter saw, aluminum blade, and a drill press to build the stand. Another $450 or so. I DIY anything I can if I have the time so it's not a big deal for me. Just an excuse to get some new or better tools.

neuro: The suspended box is an algae scrubber. It's made out 10mm acrylic like the ato and sump, trimmed in red. Each side has a magnetically attached panel that hides rapid heat sinks for leds. Inside the box are dual spray bars and screens so I can clean one at a time. The center clear section is a door to see how the algae is growing and to remove the screens for cleaning. The box is suspended from the t-slot of a cross bar. I set it up the herbie way. A pump in the sump pumps water up to the spray bars, then there is a main drain with a ball valve and a back up drain I set to a trickle. Working well so far. Probably should do a build thread one of these days.

[TankRazr]

^would love to see a build thread or more photos of your ATS. I'm in the midst of piecing a couple together now.

I guess another advantage of the aluminium t-slot profiles, especially in your situation, is having the ability to break it down to facilitate shipping.

I'm sure its going to be disappointing for you to have piece out your livestock.

[Raul-7]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5g9e_8wZy4

At 4:07; you can see the attachment. It looks it fits into the channel of the aluminum.

[Raul-7]

They are more of a clip that mounts into the interior of the 80/20 channel. I am not too sure if they are made one off just for that purpose, as the mfg of the channel may not produce the actual product. Unfortunately we are not aware of where our vendors/manufactures obtain their parts, as usually it is trade secrete or from off shore facilities. If we come across anything we will be sure to let you know, however at that this time we are just unaware.

Charlie

[reefwiser]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/121589/Aquarium/Photo%20Apr%2006%2C%205%2040%2048%20PM.jpg

I have been a Plant Maintenance man for 35 years now and I have used 80/20 for many projects. While you can use the extruded profile for a stand it is kind of overkill.
I use 80/20's quick frame profile for tank stands.
Here is one I build for a 25 gallon Mr. Aqua Display tank

The quick frame profile works fine for aquarium stands. Its easier to make and can handle the weight.
Here is a stand made for a 160 gallon tank for a Hobbyist tank in germany.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/121589/Aquarium/quickframe160gal.jpg
In Europe the quick frame profile is call Porsa and is sold at LFS stores for stands.
http://uk.porsa.dk/products/aquariumtables/

[reefwiser]

It's not I just make my own and in the us everyone makes theirs out of 2x4 's. Quick frame is the way to go if you want to make one.

[platy]

Reefwiser,

Are you sure the nylon connectors on the Quick Frame can really handle the weight of a larger tank, 125g?

I'm not sure I would be able to sleep. I have been looking at EZTube. They have 1" steel core/nylon coated connectors. They also have 1" stainless tubing.

Anyone have any experience with their products?