Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[slief]

Hi Scott. Thanks too you of course...:)

Ok . will grease it up and put it back together....

Glad to help Janet! It was a pleasure speaking with you as well. Let me know when you get it back together. You have my number! :thumbsup:

So one last question. Is there supposed to be any air at all in a running calcium reactor? Mine seems to be working but there is air/gas being recirculated through it.

There should be no air in the reactor. Typically you should run the reactor for at least 24 hours without the Co2 on to purge the air. If you get the air out and it continues to come back, you likely have a leak somewhere in your reactor system. This assuming you have the Masterflex pump pulling through the reactor instead of pushing. To find the leak, you could swap the lines around so the Masterflex is pushing the water through. If you have a valve on the effluent line, you could close it to pressurize the reactor. That should expose the source of the leak in a hurry. Another potential source or air is if you are adding to much Co2 for the amount of water flow through the reactor. If however that was the case, your reactor pH would be very very low...

[oshanickreef]

Glad to help Janet! It was a pleasure speaking with you as well. Let me know when you get it back together. You have my number! :thumbsup:



There should be no air in the reactor. Typically you should run the reactor for at least 24 hours without the Co2 on to purge the air. If you get the air out and it continues to come back, you likely have a leak somewhere in your reactor system. This assuming you have the Masterflex pump pulling through the reactor instead of pushing. To find the leak, you could swap the lines around so the Masterflex is pushing the water through. If you have a valve on the effluent line, you could close it to pressurize the reactor. That should expose the source of the leak in a hurry. Another potential source or air is if you are adding to much Co2 for the amount of water flow through the reactor. If however that was the case, your reactor pH would be very very low...

GREAT NEWS!!! I am very please to say that it is plumbed into my tank! and i am very very pleased that I am yet to deal with the air getting trapped in the top of the system like i anticipated, since apparently GEO reactors have this issue.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/nckosh/A58E523B-A0A7-4360-86E8-7E98CE6A059F_zpslyts7hgj.jpg~original

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/nckosh/7C91D744-DE3C-41C4-A61E-CD8242B70253_zps33mlzkof.jpg~original

first off... i know it is a cluster f so i am going to home depot and installing another shelf to put all this stuff on tonight.

I hooked it all up and i am very surprised that there is no more air bubbling. the CO2 is running at about 1 bubble every 3 seconds and my effluent flow is at 30 ml. i tested alk last night and it was 8.3 and this morning it was 8.3. i will test again tonight but i am please so far.

here is my only question as of now. here is my apex CO2 coding (I renamed my pH2 to pHR because it wasnt saving with pH2 for some reason):

Fallback OFF
If pHR > 6.7 Then ON
If pHR < 6.5 Then OFF
If pH < 7.8 Then OFF

the thing i notice is that my pHR will drop till it hits 6.5 and then shut off until it goes back up to 6.7 then on then off then on then off..... how should i level this out?

[slief]

GREAT NEWS!!! I am very please to say that it is plumbed into my tank! and i am very very pleased that I am yet to deal with the air getting trapped in the top of the system like i anticipated, since apparently GEO reactors have this issue.

I hooked it all up and i am very surprised that there is no more air bubbling. the CO2 is running at about 1 bubble every 3 seconds and my effluent flow is at 30 ml. i tested alk last night and it was 8.3 and this morning it was 8.3. i will test again tonight but i am please so far.

here is my only question as of now. here is my apex CO2 coding (I renamed my pH2 to pHR because it wasnt saving with pH2 for some reason):

Fallback OFF
If pHR > 6.7 Then ON
If pHR < 6.5 Then OFF
If pH < 7.8 Then OFF

the thing i notice is that my pHR will drop till it hits 6.5 and then shut off until it goes back up to 6.7 then on then off then on then off..... how should i level this out?

You can decrease the gap between on and off but I think your program is OK.. I would try to balance it out with the Co2 bubble rate and the cole parmer flow. I've found that you get a balance in pH that is precise enough that the Apex doesn't even have to shut the Co2 solenoid off. You just need to adjust your water flow up or down and your Co2 bubble rate up or down until you find the sweet spot. Also, 6.5 reactor pH is kind of on the low side even for Reborn media. I'd try to target 6.7 inside your reactor by balancing your Co2 bubble rate. It takes a bit of futzing but once you find the sweet spot, the reactor pH should be extremely stable to the point that your Apex won't have to intervene.

[oshanickreef]

You can decrease the gap between on and off but I think your program is OK.. I would try to balance it out with the Co2 bubble rate and the cole parmer flow. I've found that you get a balance in pH that is precise enough that the Apex doesn't even have to shut the Co2 solenoid off. You just need to adjust your water flow up or down and your Co2 bubble rate up or down until you find the sweet spot. Also, 6.5 reactor pH is kind of on the low side even for Reborn media. I'd try to target 6.7 inside your reactor by balancing your Co2 bubble rate. It takes a bit of futzing but once you find the sweet spot, the reactor pH should be extremely stable to the point that your Apex won't have to intervene.

Ya this is what i am expecting. here is another question for you. so when i adjust the bubble rate to less frequent, do i need to change the size of the bubbles with the AP Carbon Doser? or do i just adjust the bubbles and the flow? right now i think the PSI for the bubble making (i dont know what to call it... lol) is just under 3. is there a big difference with bubble size?

[slief]

Ya this is what i am expecting. here is another question for you. so when i adjust the bubble rate to less frequent, do i need to change the size of the bubbles with the AP Carbon Doser? or do i just adjust the bubbles and the flow? right now i think the PSI for the bubble making (i dont know what to call it... lol) is just under 3. is there a big difference with bubble size?

I just adjust the bubble rate and the flow. It makes keeping track of changes and fine tuning much easier than adding complexity by adjusting the bubble size too. I have my bubble PSI set to about 3 as well.

[oshanickreef]

I just adjust the bubble rate and the flow. It makes keeping track of changes and fine tuning much easier than adding complexity by adjusting the bubble size too. I have my bubble PSI set to about 3 as well.

cool thanks! how many seconds per bubble do you have?

[hkgar]

Just set the program to the low side ph - I have mine set for off at <6.31 but nothing on the high side.

A major reason for using the pump is to tune it to maintain a constant ph at your desired level by adjusting co2 rate and pressure (bubble size)

Since you are using Apex and if you haven't done it already, enable logging for phr to see how often it is turning on and off. Ideally you should have no ons or offs.

[slief]

cool thanks! how many seconds per bubble do you have?

I'm at about one bubble per 3 1/2 seconds. My flow is about 30 mL a minute. I'm running a Geo 818 reactor.

[BrettH]

So i noticed something was leaking in my garage last night.
Ends up it's my AWC pump that runs for about 45 mins every days.
The tubing split in the middle where the rollers contact it. :eek:
But unlike Brett, my clamps were down hard enough, the tubing didn't shift.

Hey d2mini, here is another thought about what could have caused that problem.

Was it your new saltwater or old saltwater line that split open?

If it was the line that was pumping old water out of your tank, maybe some sand or other particulate made it's way into the feed line and then once it got to the rollers it got stuck there, but caused enough abrasion to wear through the tube?

Maybe we should add pre-filters to our intake lines?

just a thought...

[machodik]

I would like to thanks Slief for his very supportive assistance in my find for the right pump .

As my country is not as easy to look for 2nd hand CP pump yet I am still working on my latest offer from the only local 2nd hand dealer of which I posted the photos earlier .

As advise from Slief , I am focusing on the CP pump (vs Watson marrow) and after checking with the dealer the model number is 7520-20 with 7518-10 pumps head. I am herewith posting the photos and also the photos of the pump inside hope any body can give me some comment on this unit and this model number ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/bafc491d3d6c8de67def185224bdff59.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/cc65c7c9584f83448d8e4bfd3c347455.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/d0d4670d723b87d536c5cb5f7f031fbe.jpg

Cheers,


MD

[oshanickreef]

I'm at about one bubble per 3 1/2 seconds. My flow is about 30 mL a minute. I'm running a Geo 818 reactor.

do you have any issues with air getting trapped in the chamber and therefore being recirculated?

[kuyatwo]

Is your head designed for the Pharmed tubing? Not all of them are... What model head and what size tubing?


http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/90532ca780f0c4c071ba160c891474b9.jpg

I use l/s 24 sized tubing

[slief]

I would like to thanks Slief for his very supportive assistance in my find for the right pump .

As my country is not as easy to look for 2nd hand CP pump yet I am still working on my latest offer from the only local 2nd hand dealer of which I posted the photos earlier .

As advise from Slief , I am focusing on the CP pump (vs Watson marrow) and after checking with the dealer the model number is 7520-20 with 7518-10 pumps head. I am herewith posting the photos and also the photos of the pump inside hope any body can give me some comment on this unit and this model number ;



MD

That pump is a 0-600 RPM pump so at our flow rates, you certainly won't be working the motor hard due to it's gearing. It appears to use the same brushed motors as the other brushed pumps so from a motor standpoint, it looks durable. It also looks very clean and should work reliably for a reactor. It won't be as quiet as a brushless unit and won't be as easy to make very precise adjustments as the digital ones. It also will not be easy to calculate flow assuming you want to know how many mL per minute you are flowing. You will essentially have to count the rotates per minute then do some math based on estimated RPM and the flow per RPM based on the tubing size as opposed to seeing the RPM or mL per minute on a display.

[slief]

do you have any issues with air getting trapped in the chamber and therefore being recirculated?

When you first fire the unit up, there will be air in the reactor. I just shut the recirculation pump off on my Geo and use the prime button on my Masterflex while moving the reactor around to get the air bubbles to the top while also guiding them into the recirculation pipe at the top of the reactor. This gets the bubbles out of the reactor and sends them back to the tank. Once I have the bubbles purged, I restart the recirculation pump and repeat the process as needed until all bubbles are purged. Once they are purged, there should be very little air that gets back into the reactor. If you continue to see lots of air getting into the reactor, you either have an air leak or the area that the reactor is drawing from in your sump is heavily aerated. Keep in mind that it can take up to 24 hours for the media to become fully saturated with water before the air is fully out of the media.

[oshanickreef]

When you first fire the unit up, there will be air in the reactor. I just shut the recirculation pump off on my Geo and use the prime button on my Masterflex while moving the reactor around to get the air bubbles to the top while also guiding them into the recirculation pipe at the top of the reactor. This gets the bubbles out of the reactor and sends them back to the tank. Once I have the bubbles purged, I restart the recirculation pump and repeat the process as needed until all bubbles are purged. Once they are purged, there should be very little air that gets back into the reactor. If you continue to see lots of air getting into the reactor, you either have an air leak or the area that the reactor is drawing from in your sump is heavily aerated. Keep in mind that it can take up to 24 hours for the media to become fully saturated with water before the air is fully out of the media.

okay thank you for the fast reply! this is very helpful because i have been trying to get the air out with the recirc pump on. so i will turn it off via apex fusion now and hopefully it will be good to go when i am home!

thanks again

[machodik]

That pump is a 0-600 RPM pump so at our flow rates, you certainly won't be working the motor hard due to it's gearing. It appears to use the same brushed motors as the other brushed pumps so from a motor standpoint, it looks durable. It also looks very clean and should work reliably for a reactor. It won't be as quiet as a brushless unit and won't be as easy to make very precise adjustments as the digital ones. It also will not be easy to calculate flow assuming you want to know how many mL per minute you are flowing. You will essentially have to count the rotates per minute then do some math based on estimated RPM and the flow per RPM based on the tubing size as opposed to seeing the RPM or mL per minute on a display.


Thanks Slief for your always prompt advise giving to us , newbie of this stuff.

As a matter of fact the price of that machine really very tempting and when I saw the inside motor that looks clean and looks new than supposedly aged. The owner should be taking good care while in their position , I heard from the seller that it was seldom use by the previous owner.

But with your said statement over the difficulty in fine tuning and also precisely calculate the flow which is also giving me some kind of thoughts over choosing it.

I have another option but it is not CP brand and it is digital , I know it also have distributor as well in the USA. Price wise is also attractive and yet it's brand new Digital , brushless and dead silent etc;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/aa0f6c459cb144fa25754c6fce4e8924.jpg

Well, have to decide by next week.

Cheers,


MD

[slief]

okay thank you for the fast reply! this is very helpful because i have been trying to get the air out with the recirc pump on. so i will turn it off via apex fusion now and hopefully it will be good to go when i am home!

thanks again

That is your best bet because the recirc pump has much more flow than the Masterflex and will suck the bubbles in before they are exhausted out of the reactor. The end result is that the bubbles will just get condensed and redistributed throughout the reactor.

Thanks Slief for your always prompt advise giving to us , newbie of this stuff.

As a matter of fact the price of that machine really very tempting and when I saw the inside motor that looks clean and looks new than supposedly aged. The owner should be taking good care while in their position , I heard from the seller that it was seldom use by the previous owner.

But with your said statement over the difficulty in fine tuning and also precisely calculate the flow which is also giving me some kind of thoughts over choosing it.

I have another option but it is not CP brand and it is digital , I know it also have distributor as well in the USA. Price wise is also attractive and yet it's brand new Digital , brushless and dead silent etc;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/aa0f6c459cb144fa25754c6fce4e8924.jpg

Well, have to decide by next week.

Cheers,


MD

I am sure that pump would work. The big question is how long it will last. The Cole Parmers are proven to be durable under continuous use. That pump you are considering has no track record among us calcium reactor users. As such, you are taking a bit of a gamble. I would check with the manufacturer and see if that pump is rated for continuous duty. I'd also make sure you have good warranty support for that unit before buying it. Remember, what ever pump you choose is going to be running 24x7 so you want to make sure you get a quality pump. If I were you, I would search for reviews on it in addition to verifying that it is rated for continuous duty.

[slief]

As a side note, I got a great deal on a Cole Parmer 7523-80. It's a new style 600 RPM digital brushless pump that was barely used. It was a good enough deal that I couldn't pass it up. This thing is deal silent. I will be replacing my other digital Cole Parmer with this new later today and will put my original one up for sale.

http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/Calcium%20Reactor/image_zpstnhqdsqn.jpg

[tkeracer619]

Very nice!

[hkgar]

for sale. It is listed in the sellers forum

[hkgar]

As a side note, I got a great deal on a Cole Parmer 7523-80. It's a new style 600 RPM digital brushless pump that was barely used. It was a good enough deal that I couldn't pass it up. This thing is deal silent. I will be replacing my other digital Cole Parmer with this new later today and will put my original one up for sale.

http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/Calcium%20Reactor/image_zpstnhqdsqn.jpg

Just wondering what the pump is that you put up for sale?

I just got a 7523-90 on ebay for what I think is a good price - could it have been yours?

[slief]

Just wondering what the pump is that you put up for sale?

I just got a 7523-90 on ebay for what I think is a good price - could it have been yours?

Did you pick up the one that had the cracked face? If so, I was eyeballing that thing for a while. I haven't put my pump up for sale yet. It's a Cole Parmer Masterflex unit that bares the Manostat Carter brand name which is also a Cole Parmer company.
This is it.
http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/Calcium%20Reactor/image_zpsvnhof5iw.jpg
http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/Calcium%20Reactor/image_zpsd5de3pjx.jpg

[machodik]

As a side note, I got a great deal on a Cole Parmer 7523-80. It's a new style 600 RPM digital brushless pump that was barely used. It was a good enough deal that I couldn't pass it up. This thing is deal silent. I will be replacing my other digital Cole Parmer with this new later today and will put my original one up for sale.

http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/Calcium%20Reactor/image_zpstnhqdsqn.jpg


What a nice piece of gem !

I wonder how you can find this nice stuff out there ?

Such a difficult task here in my Country as Cole Palmer has not been widely used and thus can not easily find in used / 2nd hand market.

Cheers,

MD

[janey]

SCott That5 Pump is NICEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.

Ok Update

I rebuilded the motor pump with new bearing and clean out the gears and then applied new grease.. . Started it up and YES,SHE Lives..... I started hearing a click sound and after talking Slief.I placed a rubber tape to the Pin Head and WOW ,I don't hear a thing... VERY Quite.....

Now to start the CO2 . and Get this Gurlll..Going.....: )


Thank you REEF CENTRAL.. Family....

[slief]

SCott That5 Pump is NICEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.

Ok Update

I rebuilded the motor pump with new bearing and clean out the gears and then applied new grease.. . Started it up and YES,SHE Lives..... I started hearing a click sound and after talking Slief.I placed a rubber tape to the Pin Head and WOW ,I don't hear a thing... VERY Quite.....

Now to start the CO2 . and Get this Gurlll..Going.....: )


Thank you REEF CENTRAL.. Family....

Woohoo! That's great to hear! I'm very impressed with your tenacity!

[tkeracer619]

SCott That5 Pump is NICEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.

Ok Update

I rebuilded the motor pump with new bearing and clean out the gears and then applied new grease.. . Started it up and YES,SHE Lives..... I started hearing a click sound and after talking Slief.I placed a rubber tape to the Pin Head and WOW ,I don't hear a thing... VERY Quite.....

Now to start the CO2 . and Get this Gurlll..Going.....: )


Thank you REEF CENTRAL.. Family....

Awesome! Glad to hear it. Could you post the bearings you ended up using?

[oshanickreef]

My pump has been running a few days now. I have it dialed so the AP doser is doing 1 bubble every 6 or 7 seconds and my pump is running at 70 ml. My ph has leveled out around 6.53 and it appears to be working well!

[tkeracer619]

Great! Glad to hear it :)

[machodik]

That pump is a 0-600 RPM pump so at our flow rates, you certainly won't be working the motor hard due to it's gearing. It appears to use the same brushed motors as the other brushed pumps so from a motor standpoint, it looks durable. It also looks very clean and should work reliably for a reactor. It won't be as quiet as a brushless unit and won't be as easy to make very precise adjustments as the digital ones. It also will not be easy to calculate flow assuming you want to know how many mL per minute you are flowing. You will essentially have to count the rotates per minute then do some math based on estimated RPM and the flow per RPM based on the tubing size as opposed to seeing the RPM or mL per minute on a display.


I was wondering how difficult to calibrate the ml/ min, I have seen some member here also have this kind of pumps without the digital display and is this needing to count the rotate or rpm per min and using graduated cylinder or beaker with timer to distinguish or set up the right rpm to give the needed ml/min of which in my case at this moment I needed 15 ml / min.

I may have some difficulty during initial calibration may be this unit is just my temporary stepping stone before I purchase a nice digital unit like yours.

[slief]

I was wondering how difficult to calibrate the ml/ min, I have seen some member here also have this kind of pumps without the digital display and is this needing to count the rotate or rpm per min and using graduated cylinder or beaker with timer to distinguish or set up the right rpm to give the needed ml/min of which in my case at this moment I needed 15 ml / min.

I may have some difficulty during initial calibration may be this unit is just my temporary stepping stone before I purchase a nice digital unit like yours.

With the analog/dial controlled Cole Parmer, there is no calibration. You essentially have to guess or count the RPM looking at the key slot on the front of the pump head and do the match based on the tubing size. There are charts on the Cole Parmer website for the different heads. You can search for your head in the details for that particular head, there is a flow chart that tells you the flow rates in 1 RPM increments for each tubing size supported by that particular head. From there it takes some quick math. On the digital Cole Parmers, you know exactly what RPM you are at which makes it much more precise. In the end, you can't really assume with a calcium reactor that you will need "x" ml/min. It really boils down to the tanks needs are far as calcium/alk uptake combined with Co2 rate and reactor pH. You get your reactor to a target pH or target effluent alk level and adjust the flow rate to meet the tanks needs while maintaining your target pH level inside the reactor.

[d2mini]

Digital display or not, i let the effluent flow into a graduated cylinder while running my iPhone's timer to figure out the ml/min.

[EvMiBo]

At what PSI do you guys get your CO2 tank refilled? I'm at about 400psi right now.

[tkeracer619]

At what PSI do you guys get your CO2 tank refilled? I'm at about 400psi right now.

The bottle pressure stays relatively consistent until the liquid co2 is gone. Once the liquid is gone the bottle pressure will drop quickly. Within a day or two. The pressure when full depends on the size of the bottle so if it's lower than normal now is probably a good time to refill.

You can also hold the bottle on its side and turn it on the lengthwise axis. You can feel the liquid co2 slosh sides. They also sell level detectors. I just refill my tank once per 6 months regardless of fill so I don't need to worry.

[janey]

@ tkeracer619 Its on #997

Heres the web site http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/608-bearing/
and ended getting them on fleaby..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151273870348?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[machodik]

With the analog/dial controlled Cole Parmer, there is no calibration. You essentially have to guess or count the RPM looking at the key slot on the front of the pump head and do the match based on the tubing size. There are charts on the Cole Parmer website for the different heads. You can search for your head in the details for that particular head, there is a flow chart that tells you the flow rates in 1 RPM increments for each tubing size supported by that particular head. From there it takes some quick math. On the digital Cole Parmers, you know exactly what RPM you are at which makes it much more precise. In the end, you can't really assume with a calcium reactor that you will need "x" ml/min. It really boils down to the tanks needs are far as calcium/alk uptake combined with Co2 rate and reactor pH. You get your reactor to a target pH or target effluent alk level and adjust the flow rate to meet the tanks needs while maintaining your target pH level inside the reactor.



Presently with my using ball valve in controlling the effluent rate , it needs 15 ml/min that match my reactor ph @ 6.95 as well as the pressure and seconds per bubbles setting in my AP regulator and this give me a sweet spot of maintaining my alk/ ca / mg supplement to my tanks needs.

So I. Case I bought a analog / dial CP unit , it means that I need to rotate the dial knob of the RPM or speed of the rotation that using a graduated cylinder to hit the right speed or rotation that also give me the 15 ml/ min at the same setting of my reactor and AP regulator?

I got your point that in CP website there is a guidance or chart that will let me easily hit the right RPM based on informations I have over the tube size and correspond to the pumps head model ?

Digital display or not, i let the effluent flow into a graduated cylinder while running my iPhone's timer to figure out the ml/min.


Thanks !
This is also the way I am calibrating my effluent rate even with Ball valve so I also thinking of doing it the same in case I bought a Analog CP unit .

[machodik]

Further to my earlier posting, I am also would like to understand how the flow chart of CP will be with various pumps heads. I believed the flow rate should be directly related to the pump heads use rather than the pump itself , so for example if the pumps head will be model number 7518-10 (the pump model : 7520-20) , I check with CP website and flow rate of 7518-10 as follows;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/575c447cae4653670c626bdb524588b6.jpg

The specs of 7520-20;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/124c945294b22c228986cfc3e3aa6e59.jpg

With my very minimal (to none) of my understanding on this peristaltic pump , based on the above flow chart of Model 7518-10 and pump specs of 7520-20 , if I need 15 ml/ min effluent rate , with L/S17 , so which speed I have to be more likely dialed in ?

Should I choose L/S 25 tubing Instead of L/S 17 as The flow chart @ 6 to 600 rpm , flow rates in ML/min at various rpm data gives following range;

L/S 25 - 10 to 1000
L/S 17 - 17 to 1700

Or in case I computed it by using the above flow chart with ML / revolution (rev);

L/S 25 @ 1.7 needs me to turn the dial knob to approx. 8.82 marked or around 9 at the speed control

L/S 17 @ 2.8 needs me to turn the dial knob to approx. 5.35 marked or around 5 at the speed control

I wonder if I make things complicated or should I just simply use graduated cylinder with timer and rotate the speed knob or dial knob until specific rpm or speed give me a 15 ml/ min?

I can also see that the speed knob only range from 0 to 10 speed , so I presume the dialing will be more likely roughly as this is not the same as to the digital with LED display panel to shows their speed or ml in numbers.

I supposed in calcium reactor, we don't have to be exactly or accurately hit the exact ml/min needed, a tolerance of 2 - 5 ml +/- should not be affecting much , right ?!

Hope to have your professional guidance .

Cheers,


MD

[slief]

Further to my earlier posting, I am also would like to understand how the flow chart of CP will be with various pumps heads. I believed the flow rate should be directly related to the pump heads use rather than the pump itself , so for example if the pumps head will be model number 7518-10 (the pump model : 7520-20) , I check with CP website and flow rate of 7518-10 as follows;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/575c447cae4653670c626bdb524588b6.jpg

The specs of 7520-20;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/124c945294b22c228986cfc3e3aa6e59.jpg

With my very minimal (to none) of my understanding on this peristaltic pump , based on the above flow chart of Model 7518-10 and pump specs of 7520-20 , if I need 15 ml/ min effluent rate , with L/S17 , so which speed I have to be more likely dialed in ?

Should I choose L/S 25 tubing Instead of L/S 17 as The flow chart @ 6 to 600 rpm , flow rates in ML/min at various rpm data gives following range;

L/S 25 - 10 to 1000
L/S 17 - 17 to 1700

Or in case I computed it by using the above flow chart with ML / revolution (rev);

L/S 25 @ 1.7 needs me to turn the dial knob to approx. 8.82 marked or around 9 at the speed mark

L/S 17 @ 2.8 needs me to turn the dial knob to approx. 5.35 marked or around 5 at the speed mark

I wonder if I make things complicated or should I just simply use graduated cylinder with timer and rotate the speed knob or dial knob until specific rpm or speed give me a 15 ml/ min?

I can also see that the speed knob only range from 0 to 10 speed , so I presume the dialing will be more likely roughly as this is not the same as to the digital with LED display panel to shows their speed or ml in numbers.

I supposed in calcium reactor, we don't have to be exactly or accurately hit the exact ml/min needed, a tolerance of 2 - 5 ml +/- should not be affecting much , right ?!

Hope to have your professional guidance .

Cheers,


MD

You are correct. 15ml/min is about 5.3 rpm with LS17 tubing or 8.8 with LS25.

[machodik]

Questions here;

If you will be giving a choices of same Cole Palmer pumps , which model down below you would like to choose and why;

1) 1.6 to 100 rpm / digital with some distinct sign of wear and tear on the cases model number : 7523-30 , 7524-50 , no idea if this is brushed or brushless

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/21/1092293b9b5b3ba8f03bf80527b37762.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/21/4e2c6491eb3396c21685257d7663a49a.jpg

2) 6 to 600 rpm / analog with a nice intact cases and cleaned motor inside model number 7520-20 , brushed pump

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/21/820a6b2d59f434df5d97963f7d3d5ac5.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/21/1471fb38512b8979c2498903bae86f84.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/21/e61cfb6c3c67a558b231ce8a3b3b3256.jpg

All with pumps head model number : 7518-10

Cheers,


MD

[tkeracer619]

The 7523-30 has the same internals as the one you already have. It is a brushed unit. 7523-60 is the brushless version of that unit.

[janey]

Help again.
Ok Today I started the CO2 tank..

1.Calibrated a Brand New PH Probe with 4.00 - 7.00.
2. Plug- in the solenoid , Open up the reg. and turn on the gas tank.
3. lowed the psi to about 20. and the bubble count 1 to every 2 seconds . about ..

The PH started 5.58 and kept going up.. Now its at 6.82 seems like its going up ????

my alk is 7.7 and PH is 8.06

How do i lower the PH ?

I have the Ph connects to my reefer keeper lite.

should i connect the solenoid to the RKL Bar too ?? I have it plug in to a Reg socket .

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww69/saltwater6152/20150422_161652-1%202_zpskccdru96.jpg~original (http://s706.photobucket.com/user/saltwater6152/media/20150422_161652-1%202_zpskccdru96.jpg.html)


http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww69/saltwater6152/20150422_161748%202_zps69nkch4y.jpg~original (http://s706.photobucket.com/user/saltwater6152/media/20150422_161748%202_zps69nkch4y.jpg.html)

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww69/saltwater6152/20150422_161801%202_zps0e7ssj2f.jpg~original (http://s706.photobucket.com/user/saltwater6152/media/20150422_161801%202_zps0e7ssj2f.jpg.html)

[herring_fish]

I’ve been tagging along and thought that I would give an update on what I have been doing. I was intrigued by the new (to me) ideas for making a high quality system to help keep water chemistry stable.

As I went through this, I enjoyed reading the thread from the system level but was overwhelmed by some of the necessary detail so I am having a SS SGT500 built by someone that knows about regulators and getting it coupled to an AP Carbon Doser. I’m not sure if I want to go with the add-on box. I think that it is supposed to be for multiple outputs of CO2. I am about to by a Pan World 30PX recirculating pump for a good calcium reactor that I found. It’s 7” Dia. by 19”. I looked at similarly sized units like this so I hope that this is the right model.

As I said earlier, I bought a Stenner Pump for 15 bucks but I am still looking at a controlled stepper motor as a drive with a CP head.

[machodik]

Just got the video and photos from local 2nd hand dealer but worried if this pumps are fit or not.

Can anyone help me diagnose which of the below 2 different pumps much better or both are not advisable;

1) 7523-30:

https://vimeo.com/125808861

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/bf27f9e0434be8e198342cdffd789a94.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/c633b2b9ea7abd95150c60183f67e6e1.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/de86847b619656cd5be39d84641b79d9.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/b127c9f7b2bf9faeae191d1ea75fa695.jpg

2) 7524-50 ;

https://vimeo.com/125809442

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/1d50f14083bd78fa4a3f36b5629d26e1.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/81522cf5a34b687a3e78c11ba6aaadfa.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/ccd2fdb7da702f0cfbd1c0ed7e8cc271.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/906bbb8a0200d3d8bf066471a57726b5.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/ceed863a2915262fbf60a8fbc7bd5e47.jpg

Cheers and thanks ,


MD

[slief]

Just got the video and photos from local 2nd hand dealer but worried if this pumps are fit or not.

Can anyone help me diagnose which of the below 2 different pumps much better or both are not advisable;

1) 7523-30:

https://vimeo.com/125808861

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/bf27f9e0434be8e198342cdffd789a94.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/c633b2b9ea7abd95150c60183f67e6e1.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/de86847b619656cd5be39d84641b79d9.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/b127c9f7b2bf9faeae191d1ea75fa695.jpg

2) 7524-50 ;

https://vimeo.com/125809442

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/1d50f14083bd78fa4a3f36b5629d26e1.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/81522cf5a34b687a3e78c11ba6aaadfa.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/ccd2fdb7da702f0cfbd1c0ed7e8cc271.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/906bbb8a0200d3d8bf066471a57726b5.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/ceed863a2915262fbf60a8fbc7bd5e47.jpg

Cheers and thanks ,


MD

I would say the first (7523-30) one sounds better than the one in the second video.. All 3 are brushed models as far as I am aware. They do tend to be noisy at high RPM's though. It's really hard to say without hearing them first hand. It's obvious that they were used in a corrosive environment. It may have been salty air but there is a fair amount of corrosion on the internals. While that won't necessarily shorten the life much if any, it certainly doesn't look great. The motor itself is pretty well sealed so I wouldn't expect the environment to have effected the motors internals but with these pumps, you never know unless it's apparent that the pump was well taken care of. The 7520-20, is very clean and may be your best option. It's 600 RPM motor will result in lower wear and tear than the 100 rpm motors and it was obviously taken care of and used in a clean environment. While it isn't digital, you shouldn't have any issues getting dialed in although the digital is nice.. Kind of a toss up and it would depend heavily on price.

[machodik]

Thanks Scott,

I also have the same feeling the first time I saw the photos and video. The seller told me the first one has delay "start" while the second is only "one direction" not dual directions as the first one . And both are "Bushed"

I think I will give up these 2 pumps for sure .

Cheers ,

[machodik]

The 7520-20, is very clean and may be your best option. It's 600 RPM motor will result in lower wear and tear than the 100 rpm motors and it was obviously taken care of and used in a clean environment. While it isn't digital, you shouldn't have any issues getting dialed in although the digital is nice.. Kind of a toss up and it would depend heavily on price.


I missed this part, yes , the previous one (7520-20) looks clean and the dealer told me that they can give me 3 months warranty. And even offer me to have a week of trial and can return without any charge in case I don't like it . This dealers sell all 2nd hand equipment and has their own repair dept. He is different from the dealer of the other 2 units .

Non digital is ok with me since I can use the dial knob. But I am still worried that it is bushed pumps too and as you people mentioned here that bushes pumps tends to have difficulty in maintenance , sorry I am not any motor person and I does not have any idea about this kind of pumps that is why I am posting it here to seek your advises.

[EvMiBo]

I just got my CO2 refilled today. It's a 10# tank and this is the 2nd time I've got it refilled (before that it was brand spanking new). My new psi reading after hooking up the aquarium plants carbon doser reg is slightly over 1000psi, even though the guage reads up to 2000psi. Do the tanks only hold 1000psi? Is that a normal fill? I don't remember what it read last time.

Thanks in advance..

[BrettH]

Help again.
Ok Today I started the CO2 tank..

1.Calibrated a Brand New PH Probe with 4.00 - 7.00.
2. Plug- in the solenoid , Open up the reg. and turn on the gas tank.
3. lowed the psi to about 20. and the bubble count 1 to every 2 seconds . about ..

The PH started 5.58 and kept going up.. Now its at 6.82 seems like its going up ????

my alk is 7.7 and PH is 8.06

How do i lower the PH ?

I have the Ph connects to my reefer keeper lite.

should i connect the solenoid to the RKL Bar too ?? I have it plug in to a Reg socket .


Your solenoid should be plugged into the outlet on your RKL that is being controlled by the Ph probe. When the solenoid is powered on, CO2 should be flowing to the CaRx, therefore decreasing the Ph. When it is off the valve is closed and the CO2 is not flowing to the CaRx.

To get your Ph to drop you need to increase the amount of CO2 being delivered to the CaRx (Bubbles/sec) or decrease the effluent (ml/min) being delivered to the tank.

Your RKL should be set up to turn on the outlet/solenoid valve when the Ph increases above the target level (say ~6.9) i.e. delivers more Co2 to the CaRx and therefore dropping the Ph and then turn off when the Ph falls below a certain target level (say ~6.8). Ideally you want to try and set your effluent and Bubble rate such that your solenoid just remains on and delivers a constant amount of Co2 to you CaRx and hence your RKL doesn't turn the solenoid on and off constantly. If you can't get it to do this, not that big of deal. That's why you have a RKL controlling the Ph of the CaRx.

Also you want to try and run the CaRx at the highest possible ph to meet you alk demands. This is because the effluent will lower the Ph of your tank over time. And it is also a good idea to have a Ph probe monitoring the tank Ph that is tied to shutting off the effluent. If you are using the masterflex to pull from the CaRx then I would set your tank Ph probe to control your masterflex pump i.e. turn it off if the tank Ph falls below some level, say 7.8.

After you have it set up and running for a couple days, check the dkh of your effluent, it should be almost 3x your tank dkh.

I have always set my PSI on my regulator to 9. 20psi seems very high.

By the way, I love your attitude and commitment to getting your reactor setup. I have followed the progress and congrats to finally getting your Masterflex pump up and running

Good luck and I hope my response helps you...

[ReefWreak]

I just got my CO2 refilled today. It's a 10# tank and this is the 2nd time I've got it refilled (before that it was brand spanking new). My new psi reading after hooking up the aquarium plants carbon doser reg is slightly over 1000psi, even though the guage reads up to 2000psi. Do the tanks only hold 1000psi? Is that a normal fill? I don't remember what it read last time.

Thanks in advance..

As I understand it (though it's been a while since I had my CaRx or my kegerator) CO2 tanks aren't like SCUBA tanks, which measure fill by pressure. CO2 is weighed in filling, and they're usually around 800-1000PSI delivery standard and what is added is the weight of the liquid CO2. You know you're running out of CO2 when the pressure actually goes up, as the liquid is all gone and only gas is left, so it expands and goes to ~1200PSI, then drops very quickly after that.

You should weigh your cylinder empty, then weigh it again full. When they fill it, they should be filling it on a scale (either hanging or desktop scale).

[EvMiBo]

Thanks for the info. I don't look at the gauge everyday tbh, or even every week, so I didn't see the quick dip. I just noticed it was about 350psi about 5-6 days ago, and then this morning before I had it refilled it was down to about 225psi. I rolled it around briefly and could feel little to no liquid in the canister.

Should CO2 cylinders be allowed to completely empty? I thought I remembered hearing that, or maybe that's just my scuba tank confusion/comparison. I assume it should gain 10#'s (it's a 10# cylinder) after a refill? Or close to it if it's not completely empty?

[ReefWreak]

Thanks for the info. I don't look at the gauge everyday tbh, or even every week, so I didn't see the quick dip. I just noticed it was about 350psi about 5-6 days ago, and then this morning before I had it refilled it was down to about 225psi. I rolled it around briefly and could feel little to no liquid in the canister.

Should CO2 cylinders be allowed to completely empty? I thought I remembered hearing that, or maybe that's just my scuba tank confusion/comparison. I assume it should gain 10#'s (it's a 10# cylinder) after a refill? Or close to it if it's not completely empty?

I believe the idea behind why it should never be empty is the same between CO2 and SCUBA tank, that you don't want moisture getting in and corroding the tank from the inside out.

You are correct, when refilled, it should weigh roughly 10lbs more than the (mostly) empty tank.

It's always super weird how CO2 gets filled by weight and SCUBA is pressure, but yea, just something fun and new to learn about.

[janey]

Hi BrettH
Thanks Yes Exactly "Commitment" to the Hobby. Its Best to know how your equipments actually work.
Love taking things APART...lolo
I should have stated i do have 2 PH probes ..one in sump and the other on Cal reactor.

so I plug in the solenoid to the RKL. How do i set that up to shut off the gas at 6.3ph .. Still confused ??

[renevilleneuve]

If you allow me to be lazy,because my info is probably in this thread somewhere,I purchased a used 7522.05 with a 77250-62 head. Which is the best tubing and what size should I purchase? I'm using ¼ john guest tubing but could increase to ⅜. Measured my present flow to 136 ml per minute.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/82f3dd70681d48d38c569c75676c3252.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/ee83c559c9116828558c24c65f11b0c0.jpg

[janey]

Ok Is this right ???

On the RKL
I went to Controller
Device - PH
Setpoint - 6.30
On when below
Hysteresis - 0.1.00
In standby Ignore

Deafault -OFF

Also I'm using Gen-x C.R.M Calcium Reactor Media

[janey]

AAAAA Question so the 20 PSI is high.
I read that Accroding to Reefkeeping Mag
A slight pressure of 2 to 5 psi is about the range they can operate safely. At between 5 to 10 psi most reactors will start leaking .

So I lowered it down to 5 psi. and i cant get the bubble counter to bubble . Even open the valve all the way and its giving me a bubble every 50 seconds. and my PH went up to 7.00
And up the pump to 30 ml.

Can it also be the Tank is kinda low on pressure ?? and giving me a falls psi reading /

[machodik]

If you allow me to be lazy,because my info is probably in this thread somewhere,I purchased a used 7522.05 with a 77250-62 head. Which is the best tubing and what size should I purchase? I'm using ¼ john guest tubing but could increase to ⅜. Measured my present flow to 136 ml per minute.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/82f3dd70681d48d38c569c75676c3252.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/ee83c559c9116828558c24c65f11b0c0.jpg


Nice piece of pump , I can see you have both digital as well as analog control knob , as the photos is so dark so not much to see the front panel , is that LED display for showing flow rate ? Hope you can share more clearer photo of your pump.

Cheers,


MD

[machodik]

I am going to post this part here since we are talking about things related to calcium reactor, I was surprised that my effluent flow for about over a week now are dripping steadily and stable without reducing the flow rate from the time I adjust the ball valve. Be reminded I don't have any masterflex pump yet but just only relaying with ball valve . I remember that I have adjusted my apex setting from ph 6.90 to 6.95, and my water parameter are steadily stable at that setting, I understand that increasing the PH in the reactor seems to reduced the clogging in the flow, I wonder how long this will be able to maintain (just using ball valve) . In the past when my Apex setting at ph 6.90 , I need to adjust my effluent flow every 3 or 4 days, but now over about 10 days , still solid 15ml/ min rate as per my required flow .

Any ideas or comment?

[herring_fish]

I get paid to come up with weird ideas because I was taught to think like an inventor in a few classes and by other inventors. I listened to them and so I have a few of my own. My teachers believe that coming up with good ideas is about quantity, not quality. Like a boxer needing to establish his jab before moving on to the knockout, I don’t try to eat the whole elephant with one great bight (to mix metaphors/similes whatever). I was taught that you have to constantly throughout ideas, old ones, new ones, sometimes bad ones. Then your team, friends and co-workers [hopefully a few FF’s (forum friends)], help by FIX'en or amend and improve them until they become good ideas.

Onetime I made a post and the moderator panned the idea. Then without improving it or amending it in any way, two years later, he patented it as his. Some of my BAD ideas turn into pretty good ones with a little help.

You may disagree with my premise and that’s OK but please put up with my posts, lend a little help or just skip them.

I’m not sure but I think that I was rebuked, perhaps correctly, for asking questions that were outside the minutia of detail …again, even though it is great stuff. For that reason I have laid low and just read along. Then I re-read the original posts and changed my mind so I decided to jump back in. I don’t think that I’m a lone dreamer. Just think of it as comic humor.

I love this thread because it is based on big ideas. Despite the title of the post this thread is not only about the details of high end continuous duty pumps. The OP said:

….Many of the things here will cross over to other peristaltic pumps and I welcome posts showing high quality alternatives…..
also
….The focus of this thread is to discuss the system, its benefits, and to assist in hardware selection with each individuals specific setup in mind…..

So we have rightfully ground through the details of selecting and fixing different pumps of various brands. We have also discussed problems with and ideas for other parts of the system like reactors that are bubbling wrong, digital regulators and dual staged regulators. As necessary and helpful as detail is, I want to also talk about creating the best high end system that is possible. I also enjoy thoughts and discussions that are outside the box like this one.

I believe we may be able to....
In theory, this is all that is needed to add an auto water change to our already sweet systems for not a lot of additional investment. Thoughts?....

Thought? Yea Just like tkeracer619 posted: http://asaherring.com/reef/hardware/SoIhadanidea.jpg

Let’s dream!

[zachts]

Auto Water Change with peristaltic pumps.....yeah, there's a few threads on that, been using one for over a year..........dual head CP pumps, Stenner, LM3, DoS, DIY, you name it, it's been made to work, and work well.

[BrettH]

Hi BrettH
Thanks Yes Exactly "Commitment" to the Hobby. Its Best to know how your equipments actually work.
Love taking things APART...lolo
I should have stated i do have 2 PH probes ..one in sump and the other on Cal reactor.

so I plug in the solenoid to the RKL. How do i set that up to shut off the gas at 6.3ph .. Still confused ??

I run an Apex on my system, so can't help you with the programming logic for a RKL. Sorry wish I could....

Anyone else running a RKL that can help Janey?

[machodik]

Questions on the silicon tubing L/S 17. Is the internal diameter is 1/4"? As we don't have John quest here so I am using this as a connector one side to connect to silicon L/S 17 while the other to the RO pipe ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/24/b5d5a490418d97c9463550d00ea89176.jpg

[janey]

@ herring_fish Post #1057

HIGH FIVE.... :)

[slief]

Questions on the silicon tubing L/S 17. Is the internal diameter is 1/4"? As we don't have John quest here so I am using this as a connector one side to connect to silicon L/S 17 while the other to the RO pipe ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/24/b5d5a490418d97c9463550d00ea89176.jpg

While those may not be John Guest branded connectors, they are essentially the same and function the same way. As such, those fittings are just fine!

[zachts]

While those may not be John Guest branded connectors, they are essentially the same and function the same way. As such, those fittings are just fine!

Also be sure to zip tie the tubing on the barb fitting to ensure it stays put and seals.

[herring_fish]

Also be sure to zip tie the tubing on the barb fitting to ensure it stays put and seals.

What do you mean?

[zachts]

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/acroporaddict/CIMG5114_zps97accee4.jpg~original

or hose clamp, either one.

[herring_fish]

Oh! Gotcha Thanks

[machodik]

While those may not be John Guest branded connectors, they are essentially the same and function the same way. As such, those fittings are just fine!


Thanks Scott,

By the way , the one in the picture has in one side 3/8" and the other side 1/4" , I think the regular RO tube is 1/4" but I wonder L/S 17 use 1/4" or 3/8"? In the tube size specs , it mentioned hose Barr is 1/4" , is this means the diameter ?

I can see thru the picture that silicon tube looks bigger than the RO tube , is this right?

[renevilleneuve]

What type of tubing is preferred? Tygon,pharmed,silicone,norprene etc. I read the norprene is resistant to acidity and alkalinity. Opinions please.

[tkeracer619]

PharMed BPT and Norprene food grade.

Your head is compatible with LS 15, L/S 24, L/S 35, and L/S 36 only. You will need to find some from someone who bought a roll or get a roll. Still unaware of anyone who sells it by the foot.

[tkeracer619]

Thanks Scott,

By the way , the one in the picture has in one side 3/8" and the other side 1/4" , I think the regular RO tube is 1/4" but I wonder L/S 17 use 1/4" or 3/8"? In the tube size specs , it mentioned hose Barr is 1/4" , is this means the diameter ?

I can see thru the picture that silicon tube looks bigger than the RO tube , is this right?

LS17 has an ID of 1/4" and an OD of 3/8". 1/16" wall thickness.



Any ideas or comment?

Sometimes reactors are not temperamental. The masterflex pumps takes a potential unknown variable and turns it into a controllable variable.

[machodik]

LS17 has an ID of 1/4" and an OD of 3/8". 1/16" wall thickness.



Sometimes reactors are not temperamental. The masterflex pumps takes a potential unknown variable and turns it into a controllable variable.


Well noted , thanks , now I got it :

ID - internal diameter
OD - outer diameter

Thanks !

[machodik]

Well noted , thanks , now I got it :

ID - internal diameter
OD - outer diameter

Therefore for the connector , I need outer diameter of 1/4" to fit L/S 17 tube's Internal diameter of 1/4"!

Thanks !

[tkeracer619]

I love this thread because it is based on big ideas.

Combined efforts go a long way. I am thankful for everyones contributions. I didn't expect to be on page 43 and getting ready for a split. Plenty of life left on this subject and I think the best stuff to come from it haven't been yet realized.

I don't think your quest for a great reactor has gone unnoticed. Looking forward to the progress.



Thanks !

you're welcome

[machodik]

I learned a lot form this treat and thanks so much for all the advises and support from all of you out there.

I am still on my quest of finding a good pump to my system , unlike you people in the U.S. , You have wide variety of good used Cole palmer pumps to choose from . Here in my country so sad to say that Cole Palmer are not as popular as you have over there , perhaps there are user but considering its prices and quality I supposed so much user still not deciding to change and sell their used one or perhaps a lot of user opted to buy those cheaper version of china made.

I can say that I have spend so much time to look for the right pump and I will only reported it back if I finally have one .

But I learned a lot thru you guys , my GEO 618 , my AP carbon Doser all are known by me thru your information taken in this nice site and thanks to my friend in San Fo that help me buys it for me . But still I really appreciated for having this nice post and everyone keep discussing things and their experiences .

More power to you guys and hope when I got my piece I shall be reported back by then.

Cheers,

MD

[renevilleneuve]

Thanks tke racer 619. Will buy a roll but mentioned small quantity from someone possibly in Montreal whilst I get my tubing.

[ianrwesley]

For those who are interested I have a pump up for sale in the drygoods FS forum. It's a 77301-20 which is a digital brushless unit with pump and controller.

[machodik]

This should be a nice piece of pump , So pity , shipping cost from USA to Taiwan is way too high and not to mentioned some tax and duty too.

[herring_fish]

http://asaherring.com/reef/hardware/SoIhadanidea.jpg

This is not a great idea. It's just a starting point. What to do and is it worth even worrying about?

So I have tried to follow protocol. I searched around on RC and the net.

Then I started a thread on The Reef Chemistry Forum http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2497924but now I am back here. On RC, I did find this:

You will need to pay attention to magnesium levels. Once you get your alk stable, calcium should remain stable as long as you have the correct amounts of mag.

How do you keep the correct amounts of mag? This is an expensive system. Couldn't it address this? Should it?

So i got to thinking....i know usually leads to bad things...

Since people have been adding dolomite(sp?) to the calc reactors in order to add mag, and since it requires a lower ph to dissolve it, which usually makes the calc media turn to mush why not to a separate reactor for it?

I was thinking have a separate chamber with recirc pump and run it off the same CO2 bottle as the calc reactor, just with its own solenoid / ph controller.
That way you can adjust the dosing separate of the calc.

Thoughts?
it wouldn’t be for an easier cheaper kinda thing, just more precise dosing. As opposed to trying to balance things by the amount of media in the reactor.

The only thing I would recommend above the AP Carbon Doser is the Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser add-on box with a digital screen

Could a second output stream of CO2 and another smaller reactor help or hurt? Is there a better way to go? Should anyone bother?

[herring_fish]

I think that I want to eventually build a calcium reactor but I don’t know enough about them yet and I would like to get some help in planning. I want to build a reactor that will be out in the garage so height is not an issue. Let’s say that I will make a dual chamber system with the flow running from bottom to top. I might use 6 inch diameter tubes for the chambers because I already use them for another project.

Will having tall chambers allow the fine powder to settle out before going to the recirculating pump and therefore potentially increase its life? If so, when would it be over kill?

By the way, I did report about talking to the guy at Geo and besides his comments about a second chamber, I didn't get a chance to say that he said that he would be glad to build it for me but he didn't think that an overly tall chamber would help with the settling of dust.

[tkeracer619]

Could a second output stream of CO2 and another smaller reactor help or hurt? Is there a better way to go? Should anyone bother?

No reason to bother. Some dolomite in the reactor does the trick but that is down the road and due to the difference in uptake you have to toy with it over time to get it dialed in. When I run dolomite I am only looking to supply maybe 50% of my total requirements and will use the mag recipe from randys 2 part to add the rest, this way I don't overshoot but the dolomite reduces the amount needed. Mag doesn't drop fast and if you do water changes you are likely fine. I add mag to my water change water and make the salt mix go further.

I didn't get a chance to say that he said that he would be glad to build it for me but he didn't think that an overly tall chamber would help with the settling of dust.

What dust? If GEO is building you a reactor make sure to get the effluent output on the lid.

A calcium reactor is nothing but a tube with recirc pump. A custom with all the features will work no better than a 5 gallon bucket retrofitted (function vs form). It's just a chamber for a reaction to occur, the hardware you use to control it makes all the difference. There may be an amount of media that is ideal for any given tank size / demand level in regards to minimums. I've run reactors to the max where they just couldn't keep up. I have never though yet encountered a reactor that was too big unless the tank had no demand in which case they should have been using kalkwasser or two part until there was demand.

If you want the ultimate reactor you are in the right thread. You could turn a cowboy boot into a good reactor with this setup :lol:.

This should be a nice piece of pump.
Didn't you get a pump already or no?

[herring_fish]

Yea, I know that building a reactor can be easy and that is why I was going to build one myself. I called GEO for info about several things including buying just the top plates with the quick change slotted eyelets and plastic screws.

Then I ran across a high end 7" by 19 tall reactor with the same features for 25 bucks. I also got a 15 lb. CO2 bottle for the same price. (Boy it's ugly. ...needs cosmetic work.) Once I buy the recirculation pump and some plumping, I will be done with that leg of the system.

So, I only have a couple of days left to finish my research on the AP model that I want to buy ...I'm thinking that I don't need to buy the $100 add-on box if I will only need one CO2 output.

If not, your advice on the mag chamber gets rid of that additional requirement/want'a have. Thanks That means that I'll just go with the $209 digital box without their regulator and go with an after market SS SGT500 regulator that just got done and is being shipped to AP.

Then I still need a controller. I plan on a higher end multi-functioning model so I won't get a dedicated controller just for the approx.6.5pH regulation.

[machodik]

I am about to get one soon , as per Scott advise on the 3 CP pump I presented here , I am narrowing down my selection and will be getting the 7520-00 with 7518-10 pump head. Analog and Bushed with 6-600 rpm.

Furthermore , As I was about to pick my choices , yesterday I have been offer by the same dealer with another one , a stock unused Watson - Marlow 323S with 313D pump head. I try to surf Internet to find out if it is brushed or brushless but no information on it except it is 400 rpm , digital. Can anyone give me some info about this pump ? I am in fact choosing between this one with the 7520-00/7518-10 CP pump I above mentioned .

Here is the picture of Watson - Marlow 323S;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/33e529367eeb5411f1de46acd817046a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/a7e459cb4ad67958b183e3565ac14888.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/53e09394a616005adb40ba4681282575.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/e189529ba29891850967a640767ad094.jpg

Hope to hear from you guys

[machodik]

Further to my earlier post on Watson - Marlow 323s pump as picture shown earlier , I have found from their website that this pump is ;

"Zero maintenance Brushless DC motor"

I wonder what it mean about "DC motor" ??? As I believed all the CP pumps are AC. Sorry not so mix knowledge about motors ! :) here is the data (look on the 300 series);

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/df3e8cc42ff70683d10abc3bf916f030.jpg

[slief]

I am about to get one soon , as per Scott advise on the 3 CP pump I presented here , I am narrowing down my selection and will be getting the 7520-00 with 7518-10 pump head. Analog and Bushed with 6-600 rpm.

Furthermore , As I was about to pick my choices , yesterday I have been offer by the same dealer with another one , a stock unused Watson - Marlow 323S with 313D pump head. I try to surf Internet to find out if it is brushed or brushless but no information on it except it is 400 rpm , digital. Can anyone give me some info about this pump ? I am in fact choosing between this one with the 7520-00/7518-10 CP pump I above mentioned .

Here is the picture of Watson - Marlow 323S;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/33e529367eeb5411f1de46acd817046a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/a7e459cb4ad67958b183e3565ac14888.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/53e09394a616005adb40ba4681282575.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/26/e189529ba29891850967a640767ad094.jpg

Hope to hear from you guys


That Marlow looks like a decent pump. I read through the manual and the only issue I see is that it's only controllable in 1RPM increments which makes it a little tougher to dial in. The Cole Parmers can be controlled in 1/10th RPM increments. I also couldn't find out if it has a continuous mode but I think it does. If you choose that pump, make sure you enable the "Auto Start" feature so that if power goes out to the pump, it starts back up. You might want to try to call the manufacturer and see what they say about running it 24/7 at a low RPM. My guess is that you'd be running it around 10RPM but that will depending on the tubing size and flow rates which is something I couldn't find.

FWIW, there is NOTHING wrong with brushed pumps. They may not be as quiet as a brushless pump but brushed pumps are VERY reliable. The only maintenance is replacing the brushes ever so often. With our kind of usage, that could be every 6 months to a year if that. The brushes are cheap to at under $20 for the pair and it takes minutes to change them out. As such, don't worry about getting a brushed pump from a reliability standpoint.

Noise level is 70 dB at 1 meter which is fairly quiet. According to the manaul there are no user servicable parts which may indicate that it's brushless but then again, it may have a cheap motor and not have serviceable brushes.

Here is a manual on that pump.
http://www.watson-marlow.com/Documents/knowledge-hub/Manuals/gb%20-%20UK/m-323e-s-u-du-gb-06.pdf

[machodik]

Hi Scott , thanks as always for your very supported reply.

By the way , is all brushless pump are DC motor? I don't understand what it is as to AC motor (I guess our CP pumps are)

[slief]

Hi Scott , thanks as always for your very supported reply.

By the way , is all brushless pump are DC motor? I don't understand what it is as to AC motor (I guess our CP pumps are)

DC means the motors don't run off of traditional alternating current (110 or 220v) and instead use direct current lower voltage to drive the motor. I think that all of these variable speed pumps are DC based as opposed to AC based. The DC power allows the pump motor to vary it's rpm as the voltage is increased or decreased. This would apply to brushed and brushless. That said, don't think of these pumps as being similar to the garbage DC pumps produced by companies such as Jebao, RLSS etc. Those are cheap motors with cheap power supplies and cheap electronics. These medical and lab grade Cole Parmer pumps are much higher quality with motors that really can't be compared to most of the DC style pumps we hear about on the forum. I'm guessing that the Marlow is also of decent quality. It's just not as fine tuneable down to the 10th of an RPM like the Cole Parmers but that doesn't mean it won't work well enough for a calcium reactor and do so reliably.

[machodik]

Watson -Marlow pump test;

https://vimeo.com/126206603

I think the digital display Only shows and only can adjusted with rpm but not the flow rate (Ml/Min), still studying its manual .

Cheers ,


MD

[machodik]

Any comment?

[machodik]

Hi everyone , congratulate me !

I Just pick up my Watson - Marlow 323S today , is very new unused.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/ffb11f4a5543d8b0f4693885d1b42524.jpg

I am also planning to buy the CP 7522-00 for my WC , I wonder anyone has ever use this pump for WC ? As I am tired of manual Water change and wish to use this pump to suck the old water from sump and filled back with fresh sea water in return . Hope anyone help me too how is your set up in this regard!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/c487b6dd7af842e9b15683ab32f82d92.jpg

Cheers,


MD

[Krazie4Acans]

Hi everyone , congratulate me !

I Just pick up my Watson - Marlow 323S today , is very new unused.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/ffb11f4a5543d8b0f4693885d1b42524.jpg

I am also planning to buy the CP 7522-00 for my WC , I wonder anyone has ever use this pump for WC ? As I am tired of manual Water change and wish to use this pump to suck the old water from sump and filled back with fresh sea water in return . Hope anyone help me too how is your set up in this regard!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/c487b6dd7af842e9b15683ab32f82d92.jpg

Cheers,


MD

Looks like a good pickup on the Watson - Marlow. Nice find.

The AWC question is a bit off topic for this thread and should probably be asked in one of the many threads already discussing AWC setups. Hope you get it figured out and running. AWC does make the task of doing those water changes much easier. Krazie :jester:

[Sparky0028]

I have a Geo 618 and using the MF pump with ls/16 tubing. I mod the reactor to pull effluent from the top, turned the MF pump on full to prime the pump and get ride of all the air for over an hour. My CaRx is about 3' high from the sump and still this didn't work, pump never primed and nothing but air and a cloudy reactor. So i went back to manifold feed to reactor, ball valve 95% closed and works great. Has anyone got a Geo to work with using MF pump pulling through?
Thanks
Rich

[machodik]

I try this unit with L/S 16 tubing and it runs 1 ml / 1 rpm . I need 15 ml / min and at 15 rpm , she give me the right volume I need .

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/2c954237cdd274218ad9e8eeafa8ba78.jpg

And very dead silent too. Now have to find a good connector as the ID is 1/8 and I don't think we have that small diameter here . Huh!

Cheers,


MD

[machodik]

So i noticed something was leaking in my garage last night.
Ends up it's my AWC pump that runs for about 45 mins every days.
The tubing split in the middle where the rollers contact it. :eek:
But unlike Brett, my clamps were down hard enough, the tubing didn't shift.


I understand and respect the main topic of this thread concentrating on CP pump mainly for Calcium reactor application . And please accept my sincere apology for having an off topic in my earlier posting with regard to questions on AWC.

But I would like to ask you guys to give me a little opportunity to post my question to people like D2mini or some one else have been using peristaltic pump for AWC application . Perhaps a guide on which thread or link that I need to following up or a PM to me as I would like to know how is the set up specially with my plan next buy - a CP 7522-00 as presented earlier for AWC purpose.

Thanks for your kind understanding and I will abide the request by letting this post purely discuss on the topic as it was initiated ! Thanks ! :)

Cheers ,

MD

[slief]

I understand and respect the main topic of this thread concentrating on CP pump mainly for Calcium reactor application . And please accept my sincere apology for having an off topic in my earlier posting with regard to questions on AWC.

But I would like to ask you guys to give me a little opportunity to post my question to people like D2mini or some one else have been using peristaltic pump for AWC application . Perhaps a guide on which thread or link that I need to following up or a PM to me as I would like to know how is the set up specially with my plan next buy - a CP 7522-00 as presented earlier for AWC purpose.

Thanks for your kind understanding and I will abide the request by letting this post purely discuss on the topic as it was initiated ! Thanks ! :)

Cheers ,

MD
Here you go.. A great thread on different automatic water change approaches.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2349824&highlight=automatic+water+change

[herring_fish]

As I mentioned before, I had a regulator build for me and had it sent to AP to get a digital box installed to it. I also said that I bought a very old CO2 tank and regulator. I was going to throw the slightly green regulator away and keep the cylinder.

In talking to Mark at AP, an old steel regulator can be the start of trouble. Internal rust dust and a probable requirement for re-certification on such an old unit could make for more trouble than it is worth.

I guess that I will start looking for another cylinder now and I have to make a decision by Thursday or Friday when the finished regulator ships.

Mark offers free shipping on his cylinders and he feels that his prices can’t be beaten. I don’t know if his is the best but if he is close, the free shipping on such a heavy product could make it attractive. Another thing to look at is should I buy something that is pre-filled or not?

Should I seriously look at buying one from him or are there other ways to go, new or used, that might work out better for me?

I guess that it's my turn to get into a few details.

AP cyclinder Prices
Size Capacity Height Diameter
2.5 lbs 2.5 lbs compressed CO2 14.1" 4.38"
5 lbs 5 lbs compressed CO2 17.5" 5.25"
10 lbs 10 lbs compressed CO2 20.25" 6.9"
20 lbs 20 lbs compressed CO2 27.13" 8.0"
50 lbs 50 lbs compressed CO2 52.63" 7.25"

T2.5E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders(new)(2.5 lbs empty) $51.99
T2.5F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders(new)(2.5 lbs) (full) $99.99
T10E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(10 lbs)(empty) $79.99
T10F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(10 lbs)(full) $149.99
T5E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(5 lbs)(empty) $57.99
T5F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(5 lbs)(full) $129.99
T20E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (with handle)(new)(20 lbs)(empty) $121.99
T20F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (with handle)(new)(20 lbs)(full) $199.99
T50E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (with handle)(new)(50 lbs)(empty) $309.99
TDT-1 Fill tube, Siphon tube, dip tube (for dispensing liquid/filling other tanks)(includes FREE installation) $19.99
pr-098789 Perma-Seal (co2 cylinder to regulator seal) $3.99

[slief]

As I mentioned before, I had a regulator build for me and had it sent to AP to get a digital box installed to it. I also said that I bought a very old CO2 tank and regulator. I was going to throw the slightly green regulator away and keep the cylinder.

In talking to Mark at AP, an old steel regulator can be the start of trouble. Internal rust dust and a probable requirement for re-certification on such an old unit could make for more trouble than it is worth.

I guess that I will start looking for another cylinder now and I have to make a decision by Thursday or Friday when the finished regulator ships.

Mark offers free shipping on his cylinders and he feels that his prices can’t be beaten. I don’t know if his is the best but if he is close, the free shipping on such a heavy product could make it attractive. Another thing to look at is should I buy something that is pre-filled or not?

Should I seriously look at buying one from him or are there other ways to go, new or used, that might work out better for me?

I guess that it's my turn to get into a few details.

AP cyclinder Prices
Size Capacity Height Diameter
2.5 lbs 2.5 lbs compressed CO2 14.1" 4.38"
5 lbs 5 lbs compressed CO2 17.5" 5.25"
10 lbs 10 lbs compressed CO2 20.25" 6.9"
20 lbs 20 lbs compressed CO2 27.13" 8.0"
50 lbs 50 lbs compressed CO2 52.63" 7.25"

T2.5E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders(new)(2.5 lbs empty) $51.99
T2.5F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders(new)(2.5 lbs) (full) $99.99
T10E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(10 lbs)(empty) $79.99
T10F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(10 lbs)(full) $149.99
T5E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(5 lbs)(empty) $57.99
T5F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (new)(5 lbs)(full) $129.99
T20E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (with handle)(new)(20 lbs)(empty) $121.99
T20F Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (with handle)(new)(20 lbs)(full) $199.99
T50E Aluminum Co2 Cylinders (with handle)(new)(50 lbs)(empty) $309.99
TDT-1 Fill tube, Siphon tube, dip tube (for dispensing liquid/filling other tanks)(includes FREE installation) $19.99
pr-098789 Perma-Seal (co2 cylinder to regulator seal) $3.99


I have a couple old 20 pound steel tanks myself and will be trading them in at the local Co2 exchange place for an extra 20 pound aluminum one. It is true that the steel ones corrode inside and the corrosion can get into the regulator and damage it. As such, I only use aluminum ones with my AP regulator and have a 20 pound aluminum tank that I am running now. You might want to check locally to see if there is a place that exchanges empty Co2 tanks with filled ones. I've found that exchanging them is usually cheaper than filling them and most of the exchange places are pretty amicable to trading steel ones (for a small fee) for aluminum ones. You just need to bring your steel one in and ask. many welding supply places as well as beverage supply places will exchange the tanks.

[herring_fish]

Thanks slief for the advice. I called locally and found that the 15 lb. steel, if it is out of date, has no trade in value but a new brushed aluminum 20 lb. cylinder would be about 150 with tax so it looks like a good deal right up the street.

[slief]

Thanks slief for the advice. I called locally and found that the 15 lb. steel, if it is out of date, has no trade in value but a new brushed aluminum 20 lb. cylinder would be about 150 with tax so it looks like a good deal right up the street.

Yea, the steel tanks need hydro testing after a certain amount of time. Some places will still take them in depending on if they pass inspection. That said, good deal or not, you may want to call around and check some other places. I did a check for you in Winston Salem and you have a lot of Co2 refill places around there for the beverage industry alone. I'd bet with a bit of searching you could find other options as well. I scanned Craigslist in your area and there are several Co2 tanks listed there as well but it's hard to tell if the painted ones are aluminum. In most cases they aren't. That said, here is one that might still be available for a good price.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/app/4941327254.html

[oshanickreef]

GREAT NEWS!!! I am very please to say that it is plumbed into my tank! and i am very very pleased that I am yet to deal with the air getting trapped in the top of the system like i anticipated, since apparently GEO reactors have this issue.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/nckosh/A58E523B-A0A7-4360-86E8-7E98CE6A059F_zpslyts7hgj.jpg~original

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/nckosh/7C91D744-DE3C-41C4-A61E-CD8242B70253_zps33mlzkof.jpg~original

first off... i know it is a cluster f so i am going to home depot and installing another shelf to put all this stuff on tonight.

I hooked it all up and i am very surprised that there is no more air bubbling. the CO2 is running at about 1 bubble every 3 seconds and my effluent flow is at 30 ml. i tested alk last night and it was 8.3 and this morning it was 8.3. i will test again tonight but i am please so far.

here is my only question as of now. here is my apex CO2 coding (I renamed my pH2 to pHR because it wasnt saving with pH2 for some reason):

Fallback OFF
If pHR > 6.7 Then ON
If pHR < 6.5 Then OFF
If pH < 7.8 Then OFF

the thing i notice is that my pHR will drop till it hits 6.5 and then shut off until it goes back up to 6.7 then on then off then on then off..... how should i level this out?

So after a few weeks of having this running, I am having issues with air getting trapped at the top of the reactor, which then is recirculated, and then eventually stops the recirculating pump. I can get all of the air out but then once i turn the co2 back on, air gets recirculated very quickly. My reactor is a GEO 618 and i am pulling through the reactor. when i dont have the Co2 on and it is recirculating, there is no air issues... I spoke with GEO and he said that with a pump pushing the water through, the reactor is fine and there will not be any air, but he didnt say anything about using one of these pumps.. i dont see why using one of these pumps would cause air to get trapped but i assume that it has something to do with the pulling vs. the pushing. any suggestions? I really want to avoid drilling through the top of the reactor... lol

thanks,

[slief]

So after a few weeks of having this running, I am having issues with air getting trapped at the top of the reactor, which then is recirculated, and then eventually stops the recirculating pump. I can get all of the air out but then once i turn the co2 back on, air gets recirculated very quickly. My reactor is a GEO 618 and i am pulling through the reactor. when i dont have the Co2 on and it is recirculating, there is no air issues... I spoke with GEO and he said that with a pump pushing the water through, the reactor is fine and there will not be any air, but he didnt say anything about using one of these pumps.. i dont see why using one of these pumps would cause air to get trapped but i assume that it has something to do with the pulling vs. the pushing. any suggestions? I really want to avoid drilling through the top of the reactor... lol

thanks,



Generally speaking, when you use a pump to pull through the reactor and continually find air building up in the reactor, it is a sign of a leak which is allowing air to be pulled into the reactor. I have a Geo 818 and experienced a similar issue. I found that the drain valve that is threaded on to my reactor was slightly loose and I also removed the Uniseal and added some silicone grease to the seal and reinstalled it. Between the two, that solved my issue. You could set the reactor up so that you are pushing through it via the Cole Parmer which would quickly expose the source of the leak as you would more than likely find a puddle or water dripping before long. You mentioned that the issue seems to only occur when the Co2 is on. You might check the Co2 lines as well as the seal where the regulator meets the Co2 tank. If you have a leak there and are using a standard solenoid based regulator, your leak could by the regulator.

[Krazie4Acans]

You could set the reactor up so that you are pushing through it via the Cole Parmer which would quickly expose the source of the leak as you would more than likely find a puddle or water dripping before long.

Unless you restricted the output line from the reactor so that pressure would build up I don't think you would see any leaks. Pushing water would be the same as pulling unless there was a restriction on the output. The reason we use them in pulling direction is because these pumps can create lots of pressure. If there were an obstruction on the output line and the pump was pushing water in it could easily cause the seals of the reactor to leak. Pulling on a line that is blocked would just create a vacuum on that line but not create any leaks in the system.

I honestly believe that the reason that these reactors have issues with gas accumulation is due to the effluent fitting being sideways instead of vertical. The gas has to accumulate enough to reach the effluent line tubing in order to be vented from the reactor. If that fitting was turned vertical then the gas would naturally accumulate at the effluent line and be vented out of the reactor. Instead it starts to collect but before it can be vented it is sucked back into the pump and recirculated inside the reactor.

There are two fixes for this issue. First turn the T fitting on the existing plumbing so that it is vertical to allow the gas to vent naturally. or Second (the one most have chosen) move the effluent line to the top cover of the reactor so that gasses can be vented naturally without effecting the original plumbing.

Hope that gives a bit more detail of the issue. Krazie :jester:

[oshanickreef]

i will try that and post my results. thank you!

[tkeracer619]

Keep in mind the surface tension and molecule size of water is much larger than air. You can't assume if water doesn't leak that air won't enter the reactor when under vacuum.

[Sparky0028]

I have a GEO 612, tapped the lid to have the effluent pulled from this fitting and still couldn't get the pump to pull with it turned all the way up. I ended up with a recirc pump that wasn't working and a reactor filled with air. As of right now I have the input off the manifold with ball valve 90-95% closed and mf pump pulling from lid of reactor. It has been this way since monday and no gas build up at all. hth
Rich

[tkeracer619]

If you are pulling from the lid and still accumulating gas you more than not have a leak.

[oshanickreef]

If you are pulling from the lid and still accumulating gas you more than not have a leak.

okay i will check it out tonight. thanks for all the help everyone!:frog:

[Krazie4Acans]

I have a GEO 612, tapped the lid to have the effluent pulled from this fitting and still couldn't get the pump to pull with it turned all the way up. I ended up with a recirc pump that wasn't working and a reactor filled with air. As of right now I have the input off the manifold with ball valve 90-95% closed and mf pump pulling from lid of reactor. It has been this way since monday and no gas build up at all. hth
Rich

If you can't get your mf pump to pull water from your reactor then you either have the wrong tubing or have a bad pump head. They will draw water upto 15 feet vertical with not much problem at all. Something is not right with your mf pump.

Can you pump water from your sump back into your sump with the pump? where did you have the input side of the reactor when you tried to pull water through with your MF pump? Which tubing and which pump head are you using? how is the tubing connected to the RO tubing of your reactor? Soooo many questions. :)

[slief]

Unless you restricted the output line from the reactor so that pressure would build up I don't think you would see any leaks. Pushing water would be the same as pulling unless there was a restriction on the output. The reason we use them in pulling direction is because these pumps can create lots of pressure. If there were an obstruction on the output line and the pump was pushing water in it could easily cause the seals of the reactor to leak. Pulling on a line that is blocked would just create a vacuum on that line but not create any leaks in the system.

I honestly believe that the reason that these reactors have issues with gas accumulation is due to the effluent fitting being sideways instead of vertical. The gas has to accumulate enough to reach the effluent line tubing in order to be vented from the reactor. If that fitting was turned vertical then the gas would naturally accumulate at the effluent line and be vented out of the reactor. Instead it starts to collect but before it can be vented it is sucked back into the pump and recirculated inside the reactor.

There are two fixes for this issue. First turn the T fitting on the existing plumbing so that it is vertical to allow the gas to vent naturally. or Second (the one most have chosen) move the effluent line to the top cover of the reactor so that gasses can be vented naturally without effecting the original plumbing.

Hope that gives a bit more detail of the issue. Krazie :jester:

FWIW.. Pressurizing the reactor by changing the flow and not closing the effluent line producted my leak. It was a slow leak but after a day or two, I was able to spot it. Granted, I run a second reactor down stream that probably creates some back pressure.

I have a GEO 818 with the standard effluent line setup and I have NO issues with gas accumulation. While in theory there may be better ways to have designed the plumbing on this reactor, I can tell you from first hand experience that it does work and when properly setup, gas doesn't accumulate in the reactor. I suppose if the Co2 rate was high compared to the water flow though the reactor, the results may be different. Under normal circumstances with a proper flow rate, the Co2 should not accumulate in the reactor regardless of where the effluent line is. The Co2 should be dissolved within the water and exit the reactor with the water via the effluent line. As I said, I have this reactor and once I figured out the source of my leak, I had no more trapped gas in the reactor.

One more thought on gas accumulation. If the location of the line that feeds the reactor is in a heavily aerated area of the sump or tank, air will be passed into the reactor and unlike Co2, air can remain trapped in the reactor.

[herring_fish]

After deciding to ditch my old steel 15 lb. CO2 tank, I went to the local Airgas USA facility which is down the street from where I work. I went in to buy that $150 new, filled 20 lb. aluminum cylinder and I realized that I had miss-understood that he wasn’t talking about a new unit. He doesn’t even sell them there. My mistake. He was talking about an exchange.

I was on my way out the door but started asking questions about refilling a new unit perhaps a year after I bought a new one. He showed me the drop offs and the choices of cylinders that their trade in customers have. There were a lot of them and some of them looked pretty good. Then I asked him about refill timing of customer owned cylinders. They do them in batches so that could mean one day to three weeks turnaround time. If you trade it in, you walk up, put your money down and walk off with a different one of your choice. I could keep looking around town but this works for me.

That was it. I bought a used unit right then and there.

Well, for better or worse, that is another part of my system that is done/re-done.

http://asaherring.com/reef/hardware/CO2Cylinder.jpg

[tkeracer619]

Sweet. Any beer and tap or grow store can fill them while you wait.

[herring_fish]

Yeah it's just that they're so close, being right down the street. I know that many will do it but the couple of places that I called wouldn't mess with anything more than 5 pounds.

[tkeracer619]

I use airgas for work. Good company.

[Sparky0028]

After reading the recent posts and theories behind having leaks and surface tension I decided to try to pull through the reactor from the lid one more time. I shut off the ball valve on manifold and added 1/4" tubing to the sump and hook the mf pump to the new fitting on the lid. When I started the mf pump I had the co2 off so i wouldn't have gas and could purge any air in reactor, as the pump primed I noticed a air bubble forming inside the lid from the fitting that the recirc pump uses to pull water out of reactor. Where is this coming from??? I tighten up the JG fitting that was the old effluent line (put a ball valve on it until I find a plug) and the air bubble stopped. I let it run like this for thirty minutes and no more trapped air so I plugged the CO2 in also put a small shim under reactor so if gas/air does get trapped under the lid it will build up on the side I have the effluent fitting and get pulled out. As of this morning it is running just the way you guru's said it would. Thanks for your help and patience.
Rich

[oshanickreef]

[QUOTE=I let it run like this for thirty minutes and no more trapped air so I plugged the CO2 in also put a small shim under reactor so if gas/air does get trapped under the lid it will build up on the side I have the effluent fitting and get pulled out.[/QUOTE]

This shimming is a good idea! i will be doing this tonight. i reversed the flow in my reactor last night and i didnt find any leaks... in order for this to expose a leak, do i have to swithc out the tubing? or would just putting both effluent and feed lines in the water and hitting the reverse flow button work?

[machodik]

Hi there !

Peristaltic pump installed and pulling water from the reactor , no bubbles whatsoever hassles , crossing my fingers and hope this machine works well.

I set up my Watson - Marlow pump on a cabinet at my house balcony which is 12 feet away from my DT , well no place to have a big nice fish room like you guys :)

I use local made (may be china made silicone tubing which is a bit different in sizes as compare to original Watson - Marlow tube. Original tube specs #16 ( ID 3.2 mm x tube layer thickness 1.6 mm) which need me to use 15 rpm to give 15 ml/ min. While no brand local tube spec : 3 mm x 1.5 mm, which need to 17 rpm to give 15 ml/ min. But price is ten times cheaper than Watson - Marlow brand tube.

I am checking if it will last long or not ? But for safety reason , I will buy Watson - Marlow tube. Just making experiment between the cheaper tube from expensive one .

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/01/b8bc3772b5e59ff4443134fcf1e85144.jpg

Connector use ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/01/3a88dca5cc344fc42f08694aa1fd6afc.jpg

Cheers,

MD

[slief]

After reading the recent posts and theories behind having leaks and surface tension I decided to try to pull through the reactor from the lid one more time. I shut off the ball valve on manifold and added 1/4" tubing to the sump and hook the mf pump to the new fitting on the lid. When I started the mf pump I had the co2 off so i wouldn't have gas and could purge any air in reactor, as the pump primed I noticed a air bubble forming inside the lid from the fitting that the recirc pump uses to pull water out of reactor. Where is this coming from??? I tighten up the JG fitting that was the old effluent line (put a ball valve on it until I find a plug) and the air bubble stopped. I let it run like this for thirty minutes and no more trapped air so I plugged the CO2 in also put a small shim under reactor so if gas/air does get trapped under the lid it will build up on the side I have the effluent fitting and get pulled out. As of this morning it is running just the way you guru's said it would. Thanks for your help and patience.
Rich

Sounds like you found your leak.. For kicks and giggles, perhaps you should put the effluent line back where it was originally. Rest assured, it should work just fine. Geo makes good stuff and my guess is that there is a reason why they put the effluent line there instead of in the lid. :thumbsup:


Hi there !

Peristaltic pump installed and pulling water from the reactor , no bubbles whatsoever hassles , crossing my fingers and hope this machine works well.

I set up my Watson - Marlow pump on a cabinet at my house balcony which is 12 feet away from my DT , well no place to have a big nice fish room like you guys :)

I use local made (may be china made silicone tubing which is a bit different in sizes as compare to original Watson - Marlow tube. Original tube specs #16 ( ID 3.2 mm x tube layer thickness 1.6 mm) which need me to use 15 rpm to give 15 ml/ min. While no brand local tube spec : 3 mm x 1.5 mm, which need to 17 rpm to give 15 ml/ min. But price is ten times cheaper than Watson - Marlow brand tube.

I am checking if it will last long or not ? But for safety reason , I will buy Watson - Marlow tube. Just making experiment between the cheaper tube from expensive one .

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/01/b8bc3772b5e59ff4443134fcf1e85144.jpg

Connector use ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/01/3a88dca5cc344fc42f08694aa1fd6afc.jpg

Cheers,

MD


It's about damn time! :bounce3: Congrats on the new pump! I'm sure you will love the stability of the reactor with that thing running it!

[machodik]

It's about damn time! :bounce3: Congrats on the new pump! I'm sure you will love the stability of the reactor with that thing running it!


Thanks Scott,

It will not be better without you and lot more people here giving me guidelines during this period of selecting the right pump.

I am now exploring for my next piece for my AWC system .

By the way, what is the different between Tygon from the rest of tubings?

Cheers,

MD

[machodik]

I also wish to thanks TKeracer 619 for initiating this thread and I can see in spite of its more than 2 years , this thread still has a long way to go.

And surely a lot of people will gained more knowledge in stabilizing the calcium reactor plus finding the right pump !

Cheers ,

MD

[tkeracer619]

You're welcome. Those watson pumps are great too. Glad you were able to get one!

Tygon is a brand of Saint-Gobain Performance Plastics. They have a bunch of different tubings. We tend to use tygon pharmed bpt or food grade tygon norprene. The pharmed BPT will last over a year at our speeds but I still recommend once every 3 months.

[machodik]

Thanks TK,

I ask this because I saw this one ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/01/f04955ba04a426e55c92fe156a5347f9.jpg

Price is lot cheaper than Watson - Marlow tubes

What is the different from Phramed tube to that of Tygon?

Cheers,


MD

[tkeracer619]

Tygon is the brand. IE Sony, Panasonic, Honda. Pharmed is the type of tube IE Walkman, Plasma TVs, Accords. Can't read the label so no idea what you actually have. Many of them are not suitable.

[herring_fish]

OK, I finally bought a Pan World 30PX as a recirculating pump for the reactor. I saw it on bulk reef supply for $99 plus shipping. Then I found the pump for $65 plus shipping on Ebay being sold by aquariumsupply. I sure don’t know anything about bidding but I waited until the last twenty some seconds and entered a bid for $70 and confirmed it. Ebay accepted my not-bid at $65. Then via e-mail, Bulk Reef confirmed the order at $65. Hmmmm

I also went ahead and bought a Masterflex Easy Load pump 7518-10. Now I just need a motor and controller to drive it.

Of course I am still putting molding and trim on the cabinet. I don’t even have water in the tank yet so I have some time left.

[janey]

Hey Guys ..

Got a question , I have my unit MFlex running for 2 weeks ,But when i test my alk .it keeps dropping to 7.3. I have to keep adding alk manually to bring my levels up.

My cal is high like 500.

[machodik]

Hi there!

Just to share with you guys out there! I just got my second unit of Watson - Marlow pumps (323S) with 2 pumps heads (313X , 313D) to be use for my AWC.

Just sharing with you guys and start working on that said thread concerning this subject.

Thanks again a million for guiding me more thoughts about Peristaltic pump .

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/05/7c09dfe552118ed55b799170dd29e85a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/05/e0853c116248b23ce6dd99bd3a0fd7ba.jpg

Cheers,

MD

[herring_fish]

Do the CO2 bubbles get completely broken up by the recirculating pump? I don’t see anybody using a venturi or anything. That might not help either but I read about bubbles pooling at the top of the reactor. Do they just coalesce up there or do they come through the media whole?

[oshanickreef]

This shimming is a good idea! i will be doing this tonight. i reversed the flow in my reactor last night and i didnt find any leaks... in order for this to expose a leak, do i have to swithc out the tubing? or would just putting both effluent and feed lines in the water and hitting the reverse flow button work?

i reversed the flow and I did not find any leaks... but air still accumulates in the chamber really badly.

im stumped.

[Sparky0028]

It took me several tries to get the MF pump to pull through the CaRx reactor without issues. I let the MF pump run without CO2 and the recirc pump on till I was sure all the air/gas was purged. Here are pictures of my set up, hth.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=10036&pictureid=69627
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=10036&pictureid=69626

[herring_fish]

That is a nice clean setup. It looks like you have a Kalk reactor. Can you comment on it? Do you think that you will be keeping it in operation once everything else stabilizes or do you think that it will help smooth things out, long term?

[tkeracer619]

i reversed the flow and I did not find any leaks... but air still accumulates in the chamber really badly.

im stumped.

Pull effluent from the lid.

[Sparky0028]

Herring, I plan on keeping the Kalk reactor. I had to relocate last year so the tank is still young plus I had to go fallow because of Brook or Velvet. Just started putting in frags late 2014. It helps off set the lower ph the CaRx would give me if I used that alone.
Thanks for the kind words.
Rich

[oshanickreef]

I switched the flow and the tubing so my masterflex pushes through the reactor and it pushed out all of the bubbles... so i think this will work... but my question is: will this make a difference since i know it was recommended that the effluent be pulled vs pushed?

[Krazie4Acans]

I switched the flow and the tubing so my masterflex pushes through the reactor and it pushed out all of the bubbles... so i think this will work... but my question is: will this make a difference since i know it was recommended that the effluent be pulled vs pushed?

Either way will work just make sure you check the effluent line for any blockages periodically because if it gets plugged the MF pump will keep pushing water in and it will usually push it past the O-rings and cause the reactor to leak. That is the benefit of pulling is that if there is a blockage it just creates a vacuum in the reactor. It doesn't mean the pushing won't work, it just means that maintenance must be performed to make sure there are no blockages.

[slief]

Either way will work just make sure you check the effluent line for any blockages periodically because if it gets plugged the MF pump will keep pushing water in and it will usually push it past the O-rings and cause the reactor to leak. That is the benefit of pulling is that if there is a blockage it just creates a vacuum in the reactor. It doesn't mean the pushing won't work, it just means that maintenance must be performed to make sure there are no blockages.

+1

As Krazie said, it works fine either way. The downside of pushing is that if the effluent line gets blocked, the Masterflex will pressurize the reactor and can cause a leak.

[oshanickreef]

+1

As Krazie said, it works fine either way. The downside of pushing is that if the effluent line gets blocked, the Masterflex will pressurize the reactor and can cause a leak.

okay so i assume the blockage would be at the end of the effluent line? i can just use a needle or something to unplug it weekly. i will write it down to do every time i water change.

[Krazie4Acans]

okay so i assume the blockage would be at the end of the effluent line? i can just use a needle or something to unplug it weekly. i will write it down to do every time i water change.

Mine has always been at the output end where the high Ca/Alk effluent is exposed to air and can build up deposits. Just clean the end, inspect the rest of the line and you should be good. Ca Reactors have been used in push mode for years so it's not anything new.

[machodik]

Either way will work just make sure you check the effluent line for any blockages periodically because if it gets plugged the MF pump will keep pushing water in and it will usually push it past the O-rings and cause the reactor to leak. That is the benefit of pulling is that if there is a blockage it just creates a vacuum in the reactor. It doesn't mean the pushing won't work, it just means that maintenance must be performed to make sure there are no blockages.


I agree on this ! Last weekend when I trying to re arranged my pump I make a mistakes of interchange the tube of inlet to outlet and that makes like pushing it back but I have a check valve in one of the tube and this cause blockage and water leaking out from the lid with o ring as well as the circulating pump of my second chamber and water all over .

I wonder it will cause any damage to my reactor ( will it ?) although now it is not leaking after I corrected the connection .

Cheers,


MD

[Emmanuel75]

Most of the reactors currently use is the 1/4" John Guest tubing. For longer runs or commercial units use 3/8 JG tubing. These are my suggestions for LS17 tubing. Each situation might require something different but for most of us this first group will be the one. The best tubing I am aware of right now is Pharmed Tygon supplied by US Plastics. It has a long life exposed to this environment. I change the tube once every quarter. It will last longer but... its cheep to be proactive. The qty suggested is good for about 2.5 years if kept away from radiation.

**** For 1/4" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36204

(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009

(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082

(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534



**** For 3/8" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34898

(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42012

(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082

(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534


Hope this is not a stupid question but will these fittings work for LS/24 tubing too?

[tkeracer619]

Machodic, it should be fine.

Yes, those fittings will work however, you will want a different clamp.
I think this is probably the one to go with.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34083&catid=858

but would probably order 2 of these just in case those didn't fit right.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37614&catid=858

[slief]

Hope this is not a stupid question but will these fittings work for LS/24 tubing too?

FWIW, if you have a Do It Center near you, I was able to find the barbed fittings along with the 1/4" OD John Guest style fittings to mate to the barbed fittings there. Home Depot may also have them. I saw pretty much the same selection of John Guest to female threaded fittings and male threaded to 1/8 fittings at HD to fit the LS17 tubing.

[EvMiBo]

Hi guys,
I haven't really been keeping up with the thread lately. Seems like it's still on fire though.

Just a couple days ago my Masterflex 7523-70 with easy-load LS head started to click every second or so. The noise is coming from the easy-load head. Any thoughts? I'm going to take the head apart today to see if I can find anything out of the ordinary. My pH in the calcium reactor has slowly started to drop since I started to hear the noise (I believe that it isn't pushing as much as it says it is).

EDIT: I took off the easy-load head and it was pretty obvious what the issue was. Somehow a very thin shaving of metal was stuck right around the head and gear assembly connection. I have no idea how this happened though, or which part it exactly came from..?? My wife and I recently moved some electronics (including the masterflex pump) into a new cabinet that I built, that must have been it? Do you think this is anything to worry about guys? Also, the pH in the reactor has already gone up 0.02 since moving the metal shaving out 10 minutes ago.

[oshanickreef]

I pin pointed the leak on my reactor. it is where the air barb meets the airline right before the bubble counter. the threads on that fitting are stripped so it is constantly pulling air in the reactor. I have been talking to Geo to hopefully get replacement plumbing but i think i am going to have to rebuild it myself. I may put the effluent line on the top of the plumbing vs the side too so i can be pulling effluent from the highest point. any other recommendations?

[oshanickreef]

I think i am gong to just sell my geo and go with a new one that actually works. any recommendations on dual stage that is relatively similar in media size to the geo 618?

[slief]

I think i am gong to just sell my geo and go with a new one that actually works. any recommendations on dual stage that is relatively similar in media size to the geo 618?

You found your leak/problem source.. Fix your Geo as there is nothing wrong with that reactor. I as well as most others that use them think they are a pretty good reactors and they certainly work just fine regardless of where the air draws from. That is assuming they are setup right and aren't leaking which as you have just discovered is pretty easy to figure out and resolve.

I mentioned it before and I will mention it again. My Geo runs flawlessly and I have the effluent line in the stock location and not the lid. I don't get air/gas buildup in my reactor at all and it's very consistent as far as pH goes.

[oshanickreef]

You found your leak/problem source.. Fix your Geo as there is nothing wrong with that reactor. I as well as most others that use them think they are a pretty good reactors and they certainly work just fine regardless of where the air draws from. That is assuming they are setup right and aren't leaking which as you have just discovered is pretty easy to figure out and resolve.

I mentioned it before and I will mention it again. My Geo runs flawlessly and I have the effluent line in the stock location and not the lid. I don't get air/gas buildup in my reactor at all and it's very consistent as far as pH goes.

well my issue is i cannot fix this without replacing the plumbing and i cant get it from geo. I could tap a new thread but if i do all of that and it doesnt work i am probably going to explode. my frustration is starting to expose itself :deadhorse1::deadhorse1::deadhorse1:

[slief]

well my issue is i cannot fix this without replacing the plumbing and i cant get it from geo. I could tap a new thread but if i do all of that and it doesnt work i am probably going to explode. my frustration is starting to expose itself :deadhorse1::deadhorse1::deadhorse1:

Get your part in route from Geo. They have great support. If you still have some threads there, remove the fitting, use some teflon paste on the male threads and reinstall the fitting. That should get you by until you get the new part. The teflon paste should stop any leaks in the interim. FWIW, I removed all my fittings when I got my reactor and used teflon paste to seal them properly. The teflon paste is much more "fool proof" IMO than teflon tape when it come to insuring leak free fittings.

[EvMiBo]

FWIW, I removed all my fittings when I got my reactor and used teflon paste to seal them properly.

I reeaally wish I had done this before getting everything going. I have a tiny air leak somewhere. It hasn't really been a problem besides noise when I'm working in the cabinet (pH has been stable). GEO said this is normal though (to have some air build up), so I just purge out the air/gas once a weak. I had mentioned this somewhere earlier in the thread.

[oshanickreef]

Get your part in route from Geo. They have great support. If you still have some threads there, remove the fitting, use some teflon paste on the male threads and reinstall the fitting. That should get you by until you get the new part. The teflon paste should stop any leaks in the interim. FWIW, I removed all my fittings when I got my reactor and used teflon paste to seal them properly. The teflon paste is much more "fool proof" IMO than teflon tape when it come to insuring leak free fittings.

Okay i will do this tonight. if it doesnt work... I may hulk out and throw the reactor through the wall lol

[slief]

Okay i will do this tonight. if it doesnt work... I may hulk out and throw the reactor through the wall lol

I usually fill the male threads well with the teflon paste. The stuff is kind of messy so make sure you have plenty of paper towels on hand to clean the excess off when you thread the fittings back together and also clean your fingers. As much as I hate that stuff, I love it because it never leaks and it also doesn't harden to the point where you can't remove the fittings. While you are at it, remove the rubber uniseal from the bottom of the reactor where the recirculation pipe it goes into the reactor. You will obviously have to slide the pipe out of the seal first. If you tip the reactor on it's side, you can pull the seal without getting much air in the reactor. Boil the uniseal for a few minutes, cool it off and then apply a liberal amount of silicone lubricant to both surfaces of the uniseal before you put it back in. That way you have a good seal between the uniseal and the acrylic reactor body as well as where the pipe goes into the uniseal. Boiling it should return the seal to it's original form and softness and make the seal like new.

[oshanickreef]

I usually fill the male threads well with the teflon paste. The stuff is kind of messy so make sure you have plenty of paper towels on hand to clean the excess off when you thread the fittings back together and also clean your fingers. As much as I hate that stuff, I love it because it never leaks and it also doesn't harden to the point where you can't remove the fittings. While you are at it, remove the uniseal from the bottom of the reactor the recirculation pipe it goes into the reactor. Boil it for a few minutes, cool it off and then apply a liberal amount of silicone lubricant to both surfaces of the uniseal before you put it back in. That way you have a good seal between the uniseal and the acrylic reactor body as well as the pipe that goes into the uniseal. Boiling it should return the seal to it's original form and softness and make the seal like new.

okay i had to google what a uniseal was lol but i will do all of this tonight and pray that it works............ I just cant believe it to be a normal thing to have air in the chamber being recirculated and then backing up the recirculation pump... this is not normal because it makes the reactor annoying and inefficient.

[tkeracer619]

It's a feature. It's also a fluid power problem as well as a design flaw. Many things run fine with flaws, the ones that don't expose said flaw.

The lid is where you should be pulling effluent from not the plumbing. Not sure why so many folks insist on fighting it. It takes literally 10 minutes at a sign shop to get a hole drilled and tapped in the lid :lol:.

Do you think this is anything to worry about guys?
Yes, it is likely the dust shield on the bearing from either the pump head or the gearbox. Find and replace the bearing that is damaged before it comes apart and does damage to surrounding components.

I usually fill the male threads well with the teflon paste.
You can also use silicone when the threads are damaged, don't over tighten and often you end up with a leak free fitting. Threaded acrylic is very sharp and tends to cut teflon tape to shreds. Paste and silicone work best for tapped acrylic.

[darthvader]

Will this work to continuously feed my calcium reactor? I understand there are various models that will work but with my luck I'll get the one that I've should have never gotten.
I currently need to feed 120 ml and would need room to dose a higher amount as things grow. I can't keep the effluent amount on my calcium reactor stable for more than 24hrs so I thought this would help. I'm currently feeding the reactor from my main return line to a hayward needle valve. I've tried a small individual pump solely to feed the reactor but that didn't help either. Any help is welcome. Thank you.
http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx44/jorgeojeda83/Screenshot_2015-05-20-10-13-51-1.png (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/jorgeojeda83/media/Screenshot_2015-05-20-10-13-51-1.png.html)

[slief]

Will this work to continuously feed my calcium reactor? I understand there are various models that will work but with my luck I'll get the one that I've should have never gotten.
I currently need to feed 120 ml and would need room to dose a higher amount as things grow. I can't keep the effluent amount on my calcium reactor stable for more than 24hrs so I thought this would help. I'm currently feeding the reactor from my main return line to a hayward needle valve. I've tried a small individual pump solely to feed the reactor but that didn't help either. Any help is welcome. Thank you.
http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx44/jorgeojeda83/Screenshot_2015-05-20-10-13-51-1.png (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/jorgeojeda83/media/Screenshot_2015-05-20-10-13-51-1.png.html)

120ml/min? Are you sure about that? Unless you have a huge tank or unless you are keeping your reactor pH really high, that seems like an awful lot of flow.

Regarding the pump, I don't see nor can I find any info on it's RPM. I did find something that indicated up to 380ml/min depending on tubing. That leads me to believe that it's a 100RPM pump and requires LS18 tubing to achieve those numbers.That head only supports LS16 tubing which in this case, isn't going to work as it will max out at 80ml/min with that head/tubing combo. Even with a head that supports LS17 tubing, you would have to run it at 70-80% full power to get your target ml and that would beat the crap out of the pump. A head that support LS18 tubing would be still running that pump hard for 24/7 use.

Bottom line. That pump will be not be ideal for your needs. If you truly need that high a flow rate, then you really want a 600 rpm pump along with a good pump head that supports the high end LS17 tubing. Something like a 7518-10 head.

[darthvader]

My diplay is 300 with a 60g frag tank, and 80g sump. After rock displacement I'm thinking I'm roughly at about 340 actual water volume. My target ph is 6.6 in the reactor. I guess I could bump the effluent rate down 90ml/min with a ph of 6.5 in the reactor. How can I tell which head is going to support the ls17 tubing?

[slief]

My diplay is 300 with a 60g frag tank, and 80g sump. After rock displacement I'm thinking I'm roughly at about 340 actual water volume. My target ph is 6.6 in the reactor. I guess I could bump the effluent rate down 90ml/min with a ph of 6.5 in the reactor. How can I tell which head is going to support the ls17 tubing?

Still seems like really high flow unless you have a lot of SPS. I assume you already have a Ca reactor running on the system for a while and you have measured your effluent rate? That said, you search the head model numbers on the Cole Parmer website and look at the specs. Like I said, the 7518-10 would be at the top of the list as far as good choices as it supports the Pharmed LS17 tubing which is the best stuff to use as it will last the longest.

[darthvader]

Sounds good. I'll start looking for the 7518-10 head. Yes I've measured the effluent rate and it keeps me at 8.6 for alk and 440 for ca. I just hate having to adjust the rate manually everyday.

[hkgar]

One problem be having with the high flow rate would becoming by using the flow rate to maintain the desired ALK. When you increase the flow rate your ALK will drip as the ALK of the effluent will drop as will the ph of effluent. Just the reverse when you decrease flow. The best method is to adjust bubble count or bubble size or some of both. Only change flow if the bubble count and bubble size are too high.

[hkgar]

I have been using the Aquariumplants regulator but now have a Harris regulator. I would like to use the electronic controller from Aquarium Plants with the Harris, but cannot get the gauges off from the control box.

Anyone done this? Any advice?

[slief]

Sounds good. I'll start looking for the 7518-10 head. Yes I've measured the effluent rate and it keeps me at 8.6 for alk and 440 for ca. I just hate having to adjust the rate manually everyday.

Look for a different pump too while you are at it. Regardless of what head/tubing you use, you will be running that pump into the ground with it's low RPM and your target flow rates.

[darthvader]

From the information I've collected looks like I might have a winner. What you think slief? I also plan on reducing flow rate to not work the pump as hard. The description says it accepts ls17 tubing and is in perfect working condition. The rpms are 10-600 as well.
http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx44/jorgeojeda83/Screenshot_2015-05-20-14-19-05-1.png (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/jorgeojeda83/media/Screenshot_2015-05-20-14-19-05-1.png.html)

[slief]

From the information I've collected looks like I might have a winner. What you think slief? I also plan on reducing flow rate to not work the pump as hard. The description says it accepts ls17 tubing and is in perfect working condition. The rpms are 10-600 as well.
http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx44/jorgeojeda83/Screenshot_2015-05-20-14-19-05-1.png (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/jorgeojeda83/media/Screenshot_2015-05-20-14-19-05-1.png.html)

That is a much better choice and has the 7518-10 head which is a great head. :thumbsup:

[darthvader]

Thanks for the help slief! I highly appreciate it. To hkgar, I also use the AP regulator. Curious as to you want to change the regulator..

[janes_mw]

Thanks for the help slief! I highly appreciate it. To hkgar, I also use the AP regulator. Curious as to you want to change the regulator..

Two Stage Reg vs Single Stage Reg. There is a pretty good thread on here about them.

[darthvader]

Ahh, I see. I do notice that the pressure gauge jumps around a bit.

[tkeracer619]

Sometimes the brass fittings are so tight the brass is almost fused together. It takes a vice and a proper wrench to get the fittings off. They come off, it is just very very tough. If you want to make sure you don't mess it up or strip the nut take it to a welding service center. They can get it off for you.

[hkgar]

Sometimes the brass fittings are so tight the brass is almost fused together. It takes a vice and a proper wrench to get the fittings off. They come off, it is just very very tough. If you want to make sure you don't mess it up or strip the nut take it to a welding service center. They can get it off for you.

I called Aquarium Plants and they said that because of the jig they use and a locking nut, it would be impossible to remove without breaking something. Of course they wanted to sell be a new box for only $229, the whole unit is only $279. Fifty bucks for the gauges might give you an idea of there worth.

I get my CO2 from Air Gas, I might take it there to see if they can remove it.

[darthvader]

I got a local hobbyists who's in the welding industry to help me replace the AP gauges with a victor unit. We'll see how that goes. Tired of having to adjust that too!

[EvMiBo]

What's the difference between the microprocessor pumps and the digital brushless ones?

[EvMiBo]

Yes, it is likely the dust shield on the bearing from either the pump head or the gearbox. Find and replace the bearing that is damaged before it comes apart and does damage to surrounding components.

Thanks, just saw this.
I've contacted cole parmer for further advice. How in the heck would it shave off a piece of the dust shield though? Maybe I'll take off the head again and investigate further.

[darthvader]

Has anyone picked up one of these cole parmer units that didn't have problems?? I would really like one but sounds like most need some work.

[kurfer]

If i'm currently feeding 300ml per min into my tank, will this pump work for me?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COLE-PARMER-Masterflex-L-S-DIGITAL-ECONOMY-DRIVE-9000-610-/271785657479

I assume the digital ecomony drive 9000 is a 600 rpm. Plan on getting a 7518-10 head for it.

[hkgar]

The model number is on a sticker that someone put over the actual information. Cole Parmer does not have a model 9000-610. You might ask what the actual number is. They are 4 digits starting with a 7 then - 2 digits (7***.**)

[kurfer]

Well if my budget is 450 or under, what model would you get? Heavily stocked 150 gallon sps tank so 300ml per min is my target as of now with higher amounts in the future.

[zachts]

Has anyone picked up one of these cole parmer units that didn't have problems?? I would really like one but sounds like most need some work.

Most of them run trouble free, never had issues with any of mine. Just depends on what you get. I paid $50 for one of mine shipped to my door and it looks like it's hardly ever seen use but is an old brushed model and a bit noisy but not too bad at the low rpm's needed. I'ts a really bulky enclosure though as it's one of the older "digistaltic" models.

The cheaper ones are generally older and have been used more, as such they may need some service. If you find one that is lightly used you most likely won't need to do a thing to it except for replace brushes if it's a brushed model. The few recently that have had bearing issues I expect were very heavily used in their previous lives. A good majority of them have just been sitting in labs and only had occasional use. The cleaner and newer they look cosmetically the lighter use they've probably seen but the more you're going to have to shell out to get them, considering they go for upwards of $1000 new a lightly used model off ebay for $500 would be a steal!

[herring_fish]

I see that some CaRx users also have a kalk reactor. What percentage of Calcium Reactor users, add that piece of hardware. For those that don’t, what do you do about the pH?

[kurfer]

I see that some CaRx users also have a kalk reactor. What percentage of Calcium Reactor users, add that piece of hardware. For those that don’t, what do you do about the pH?

As long as you have a controller adding a kalk reactor is as easy as can be. I use a small food grade container with an aqua lifter velcro'ed to the top; less than 40 bux. I have my controller turn the pump on for 15 seconds every 3 hours. My PH during the day is 8.2 and night is 8.1...

After having a calc reactor for a few months, I would NEVER go back to 2-part. The tank has never looked better and my SPS are finally growing fast. I also would never ever own a calc reactor without a controller...to me that's a hard requirement.

[herring_fish]

Thank you

I haven’t bought one yet but I do plan to buy a controller. So you can put the effluent in a high flow area on its way into the tank instead of introducing it through top off water? I think that it would allow me to have better control.
I understand that you put the effluent in a high flow area as well, independent of the kalk. Otherwise there might be precipitation if they are in line. Is this true?

Is it hard to maintain a pH of 8.4 in the day time and is it desirable?

[janes_mw]

"Dry Running" mine tonight!!

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh234/janes_mw/IMG_0942_zpsv5eggywr.jpg~original (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/janes_mw/media/IMG_0942_zpsv5eggywr.jpg.html)

[darthvader]

What unit model is this? I'm having a hard time finding one thats 600 rpm and will take ls17 tubing. Would anyone be able to point me directly to one? Thank you. I wonder if a stenner pump like this would do the trick. I don't see why not.
http://www.stenner-pumps.com/prod-85m5.htm

[slief]

What unit model is this? I'm having a hard time finding one thats 600 rpm and will take ls17 tubing. Would anyone be able to point me directly to one? Thank you. I wonder if a stenner pump like this would do the trick. I don't see why not.
http://www.stenner-pumps.com/prod-85m5.htm

It isn't designed for continuous duty. I use the same exact pump for my ATO. It runs up to 90 GPD. You can adjust the flow but the motor always spins at the same speed. There is a clutch that disengages the head when you slow the flow down and then catches every so often to push the fluid through the tubing. You can't really meter the flow like you would with a Cole Parmer and it would be very difficult to get than pump dialed down precise enough for our use. They use a fair amount of power and are VERY noisy but damn near bullet proof for intermittent duties such as that of an ATO pump. Bottom line. GREAT ATO pump. I'd argue that those pumps are arguably one of the best pumps for ATO use but it's not a good continuous duty CaRx pump and not designed to run 24/7.

[slief]

I'm having a hard time finding one thats 600 rpm and will take ls17 tubing. Would anyone be able to point me directly to one? Thank you.

Most of the Cole Parmers will support LS17 tubing. As has been mentioned previously, you just need to either get one with a head like that 7815-10 or buy a head seperate which is what I did. Search eBay for "Cole Parmer Masterflex" and check daily for ones that pop up. 600 RPM pumps are always available there as are LS17 compatible heads but you have to be patient to find bargains or pony up to get a really nice one. You can search the model of the pump or head you are looking at on the Cole Parmer website www.coleparmer.com and check the specs of the pump and or head. That's what I did.

[tlc]

this thread is humongous and a wealth of knowledge. this pump may have already been mentioned but does anyone have any experience with the nautilis ii from reefdosingpumps.com ? they offer a continuous pump that's capable of 850ml an hour for $ 179..

[slief]

this thread is humongous and a wealth of knowledge. this pump may have already been mentioned but does anyone have any experience with the nautilis ii from reefdosingpumps.com ? they offer a continuous pump that's capable of 850ml an hour for $ 179..

It has been discussed in this thread. It's not really suitable. Most of us are running between 25 ml/min - 50 ml/min with many others running even higher. If you do the math, 850 ml/hr only works out to 14 ml/min. Even on a small tank, you would be running that thing at full speed with no room to increase flow and the tubing wouldn't last long nor would I expect that pump to last running like that.

[zachts]

I will say the nautilis type pumps do work well, just not for a CA reactor due to a low flow rate as silef mentioned. They are very tough and I've been running a similar re-purposed IV pump as a two part doser 24/7 for the last 4 or 5 years or so and for that purpose it works great. Provides excellently consistent water parameters with a slow constant drip as compared to the traditional on/off type doser.

For the same cost though you can easily find a CP pump or comparable type on ebay if your patient enough.

[GusDiaz]

I have a Cole Parmer Microprocessor Pump Drive model 7524-00 with a 7518-10 Head. I am planning to use it for a Korallin denitrator and I need flow rate of 1-10 drops per second. What tubing I need for the head and the feeding of the pump. Thanks for any help.

[GusDiaz]

Sorry if I am high jacking a little this thread.

Let me share my experience with my Korallin Denitrator S-3002. I have had this unit since 2006. I works wonderfully except every once in a while you get the surprised rotten egg smell if you do not adjust it well. I recently have read this tread and realized what might be wrong in the design of the unit. There is no way of controlling the rate of drops if you do not have a dedicated pump that you are able to control the exact amount of water that goes in.

I have always had the suggested feeder pump by Marine Depot (Aqua Lifter Pump). The problem with this pump and the regulator at the effluent end is that is difficult to estimate how actual quantity of fluid (drops per second) are actually coming out of the reactor. too fast and you do not have denitrifation benefits. Too slow and you get the rotten egg smell with the dangerous formation of di-sulfites and eventually the slime growth of bacteria that clogs the reactor making it even more slower and worse.

This is the main problem that I have found, how not to get the reactor to get the slime that gets it clogged up. Well I have noticed that when my reactor gets very clogged up due to the slime, if I one the effluent valve completely. in 1-2 weeks most of the slime coat of the bacteria goes away. Obviously what is happening is that the oxygen is killing the anaerobic bacteria and you will also loose the de-nitrifying ability on the reactor.

It is incredible how efficient these unit are when you start thinking in the terms of how much water passes through them. There are 15 drops on every 1 cc of fluid. this means that if your effluent flow rate is 1 cc per minute, you clean about 60 cc per hour. That projects to 1,440 cc per day. That is only 1.4 litters. There are 3.8 litter per gallon, so we are only cleaning 0.3789 gallons per day if your flow is 1 cc per minute.

I am guessing that my flow rate is between 8-16 drops per second by my "guesstimation" of how fast the drop rate looks at the effluent end.

The reason of this post is that I am wandering if I can defeat what I believe is the design problem of these type of reactors with the Cole Parmer pump. Defeat the slime that gets produces if you run this reactor too slow and that eventually will clog it up. If will try to see if I can now keep a better and more regulated flow through the reactor and see if I can keep the effluent water as close to 0 ppm of nitrate without getting to 0 in order to prevent a complete anaerobic condition that will make the overgrowth of the anaerobic bacteria that produces the di-sulfites and eventually clogs the reactor.

I bought the L/S 16 tubing. For the microprocessor 7524-00 it will be able to run from 8 cc to 480cc per minute (by the unit display).

[slief]

I have a Cole Parmer Microprocessor Pump Drive model 7524-00 with a 7518-10 Head. I am planning to use it for a Korallin denitrator and I need flow rate of 1-10 drops per second. What tubing I need for the head and the feeding of the pump. Thanks for any help.

Your pump has a minimum of 10 rpm. With that head, the lowest flow rate you will get would be with LS13 tubing which is .6 ml/min at 10 rpm. LS 14 tubing would yield 2.1ml/min. You need to figure out how many ml/min you r1-10 drops/second equal. Then use the flow chart in the page below to determine what size tubing will fit your needs best. As for the fittings, you might check Do It Center or Home Depot. They have a pretty decent selection or barbed to thread fittings as well as thread to John Guest. Or you could just use barbed to barbed adapters or connect the cole parmer tubing directly to your pump head via a long length of the Masterflex tubing. Another good source for the fittings is US Plastics. Some of the adapters and parts are listed in the first few posts on page one of this thread.

The flow charts for all the tubing that your head is compatible with is located in the specifications section of this page. Just click the flow chart link.
http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_L_S_Easy_Load_pump_head_for_precision_tubing_PSF_housing_SS_rotor/EW-07518-10?SearchTerm=7518-10

[herring_fish]

Are the John Guest style fittings that are sold at home Depot and Lowe’s of high enough quality to be depended on or would it be worth a few more bucks and the wait for delivery?

[GusDiaz]

I ordered the neoprene 14 and 16. I was thinking that the 13 would be too little. The recommendations of Korallin is to start at 1 drop per second. That is then 4 cc per minute. Most probably I will use the #14 because I am guessing that my flow will be between 4 cc/min to 8-12 cc/min.

It is strange, but the flow rates on the Cole Parmer website are different that the ones that the pump display actually gives. For example the pump displays for the #13 0.6-36 ml/min. For the #14 2-126 ml/min. And for the #16 8-480 ml/min.

It can be confusing because the tubing has a minimum and maximum flow, but depending on the pump model (and I guess the head model) then the minimum and maximum flow may vary. Just as a comment for all of us to keep in mind. This will definitely apply no mater what you run on your pump; a Ca+ reactor or a Korallin denitrator.

[darthvader]

I have a Cole Parmer Microprocessor Pump Drive model 7524-00 with a 7518-10 Head. I am planning to use it for a Korallin denitrator and I need flow rate of 1-10 drops per second. What tubing I need for the head and the feeding of the pump. Thanks for any help.

Almost got that same pump. How do you like it?

[slief]

Are the John Guest style fittings that are sold at home Depot and Lowe’s of high enough quality to be depended on or would it be worth a few more bucks and the wait for delivery?

I use them on my CaRx and my top off loop and have not had any issues at all. I also use the little C-Clip things that they sell to keep the collar on the fittings pulled out. That insures a leak free fitting by keeping the collar on the fitting pulled outward. You can find those in the same section as the JG style fittings.

[GusDiaz]

Almost got that same pump. How do you like it?

I have not set it up because I still do not have the tubing. I should get it tomorrow and will set it up in the weekend.

[darthvader]

I have not set it up because I still do not have the tubing. I should get it tomorrow and will set it up in the weekend.

Have you turned it on? Is the pump fairly quiet?

[GusDiaz]

I have turned on the pump. It is not too noisy, it has a hum to it. The slower you run it the lees noisy it is. I will try to open it up today to see if it needs some maintenance before the tubing come in later today. I will have it inside the cabinet, so I do not think that is going to add too much to the noise of the other pumps like the main circulation pump.

[guc32]

I have someone on local CL selling a unit that is model 900-1255. I cant find any info or specs of this model. Can anyone help me out on finding info on this?

[slief]

I have someone on local CL selling a unit that is model 900-1255. I cant find any info or specs of this model. Can anyone help me out on finding info on this?

I don't think that is a real Cole Parmer model number. That same model came up in this thread recently and I searched and found a couple different version Cole Parmers being advertised under that model. It seemed that they all had a generic white label with that number on it. To me it looked more like an OEM number than a Cole Parmer number. Can you post a picture of it?

[guc32]

Here is the pictures from CL

http://images.craigslist.org/00303_1TnTgS1DCf5_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/00x0x_y2xv31tAAI_600x450.jpg

[guc32]

Is it a good buy without pump head for $400? Was going to meet up with him today and test it out.

[slief]

Is it a good buy without pump head for $400? Was going to meet up with him today and test it out.

Depends on what you call a good deal. I'm pretty certain it's a brushed motor. You will end up spending another $75-$100 on a good Easy Load I or Easy Load II head. I'd say it's an OK deal at best on a decent pump. Personally, I wouldn't spend more than $300 on that pump but I'm kind of patient and look for the best deals. That is however a fair street price. The good thing is that is a digital control pump with a 600 rpm gear box. As such, at our ml rates, that pump will barely be spinning and it looks to be in good shape. It's a great pump for calcium reactor use if that makes you feel any better about the purchase.

[guc32]

Depends on what you call a good deal. I'm pretty certain it's a brushed motor. You will end up spending another $75-$100 on a good Easy Load I or Easy Load II head. I'd say it's an OK deal at best on a decent pump. Personally, I wouldn't spend more than $300 on that pump but I'm kind of patient and look for the best deals. That is however a fair street price. The good thing is that is a digital control pump with a 600 rpm gear box. As such, at our ml rates, that pump will barely be spinning and it looks to be in good shape. It's a great pump for calcium reactor use if that makes you feel any better about the purchase.

Ok and thanks for the advice. Should I be concern that its not an official Cole Parmer model number? Motor inside should still be serviceable through Cole Parmers parts?

[slief]

Ok and thanks for the advice. Should I be concern that its not an official Cole Parmer model number? Motor inside should still be serviceable through Cole Parmers parts?

I think that may actually be a legit part number. If you google that part number, you will see other cole parmer pumps which are completely different that had a white label part number instead of the screened part number like the one in your pictures. It may be that it's just older and not listed on the CP site anymore or that it was a different model pump that was sold to an OEM with that part number. I wouldn't worry about it. Cole Parmer support is pretty good. You could always call them and get more info.

[slief]

Ok and thanks for the advice. Should I be concern that its not an official Cole Parmer model number? Motor inside should still be serviceable through Cole Parmers parts?

I think the actual Cole Parmer part number for that pump is 7550-10. I think the screened part number is likely an OEM number or something.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_L_S_computer_compatible_programmable_drive_10_600_rpm_115V/EW-07550-10?SearchTerm=7550-10

[guc32]

Yes that looks like to be the same one. Thank you for finding that out.

[hkgar]

I would definitely call Cole Parmer re the part number. Maybe just my paranoia but counterfeit comes to mind.

[Dean Graham]

Hi guys love the topic im from Australia and had the same problems with these calcium reactors
Masterflex pump on the way Ebay
AP digital bubble counter on the way.
As for dual stage regulator i need to buy here to suit our bottles so i can have one built to my specifacations and choose the output Psi Example is
1 Psi to 8 Psi Max
or 1 Psi to 25 Psi Maxi
The lower the maximum Psi setting the more accurate it will be so what would you people suggest please
And what pressure is working best AP bubble counters

cheers
Dean

[hkgar]

Hi guys love the topic im from Australia and had the same problems with these calcium reactors
Masterflex pump on the way Ebay
AP digital bubble counter on the way.
As for dual stage regulator i need to buy here to suit our bottles so i can have one built to my specifacations and choose the output Psi Example is
1 Psi to 8 Psi Max
or 1 Psi to 25 Psi Maxi
The lower the maximum Psi setting the more accurate it will be so what would you people suggest please
And what pressure is working best AP bubble counters

cheers
Dean

I think a range of 0 to 15 PSI would be good. I think most would use between 6 and 12. There is a relationship between PSI and bubble count as PSI determines the amount of CO2 in each bubble, if I am correct. The higher the bubble count, the lower the PSI.

Have you considered the Aquarium Plants CO2 doser? Here is the link.

http://www.aquariumplants.com/CarbonDoser_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm

It is highly recommended. Might be cost prohibitive to get it shipped though.

[Dean Graham]

Thanks Hkgar
I have ordered that bubble counter from Aquarium products just waiting for it to arrive looking forward to try and get this calcium reactor dialled in at the momment I have AquaMedic KR 5000 it has been a real headache but I guess after reading this forum these other items will make all the difference

Cheers
Dean

[janes_mw]

Well, finally hooked my set up into my 300 gallon system. Once I "shoe horned" the reactor and the Masterflex in, it took me all of 10 minutes to get the system full, purged of air (I put a valve on the old input port so I could open to purge air, worked great) and running. Here is my initial settings:

Bottle pressure to Reactor 10 PSI
Effluent (draw from top of reactor) - 40-45 ml/minute
Bubbles - didn't count, but prolly 20 per minute
Reactor pH settled in at 6.56 (After 4 hours now still steady)

So far, so good. I'll check my Alk in tank in AM.

Still have to tidy up wires so yes, I know! Not much room in here anymore!
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh234/janes_mw/FullSizeRender%205_zpszuhmju6i.jpg~original (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/janes_mw/media/FullSizeRender%205_zpszuhmju6i.jpg.html)

Pic of set up before I stuffed in the cabinet:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh234/janes_mw/IMG_0942_zpsv5eggywr.jpg~original (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/janes_mw/media/IMG_0942_zpsv5eggywr.jpg.html)

Settling of pH (tank pH low, yes):
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh234/janes_mw/FullSizeRender%206_zpsschuimr8.jpg~original (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/janes_mw/media/FullSizeRender%206_zpsschuimr8.jpg.html)

Feeding the Beast:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh234/janes_mw/FullSizeRender%203_zpsmzwc2qrb.jpg~original (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/janes_mw/media/FullSizeRender%203_zpsmzwc2qrb.jpg.html)

[Pife]

I am having issues with check valves on the co2 line. It keeps leaking air into the reactor when the Aqua plants regulator is off. Any suggestions? I have tried several.

[slief]

I am having issues with check valves on the co2 line. It keeps leaking air into the reactor when the Aqua plants regulator is off. Any suggestions? I have tried several.

I've seen some that have the John Guest style fittings on either side of the check valve. You might try some zip ties on both sides of the check valve and at the other barbed fittings as well. What check valves are you using? My AP check valves haven't leaked if I shut the reg off but I also have the connections secure as mentioned above.

Why is your regulator off to begin with? If it's off because of your reactor pH, you should try adjusting the bubble count so you get stable pH and the controller doesn't have to intervene. That's the beauty of the Cole Parmer coupled with a good regulator. My Apex never has to shut my Co2 supply off because my reactor pH stays perfectly stable as a result of the consistent flow and consistent bubble count. If your controller is shutting the Co2 supply off, you need to reduce your Co2 bubble count until your reactor pH stays at your target pH without the controllers help.

[Pife]

I'm using the check valve that came with my GEO 6x24. What is an ap check valve? I am just testing for leaks right now and getting it plumbed and all the lines fitted the way I want. I do have zip ties on the valve. I have tested them by blowing through them and they work but if you suck from the other side of the valve it pulls air through.

[Pife]

Thanks for the speedy response also. I am amazed at the amount of help you are willing to give. You really went out of your way to help my buddy Nick.

[slief]

What is an ap check valve?

Its the one I got from Aquarium Plants when I bought my regulator. It's a small inline one similar to the Geo one. US Plastics has some nice check valves but you would need to convert your Co2 line to John Guest style 1/4" connections. Also, depending on your regulator, the check valve pressure could come into play.

http://www.usplastic.com/search/default.aspx?q=check+valve&view=g&refinements=%7ecategory%3dPush+To+Connect+Tube+Fittings

[Aqualund]

Anyone have issues with the peristaltic tube breaking? Im using L/S 15 pump head with the most expensive new tubing from coleparmer, and I would say...over the last 2 years the tubings have busted about 5 times. Each time its a catastrophic failure, and the saltwater of course destroys the pump head by corroding it.

So, is everyone just using the easy load heads and not having this issue?

[hkgar]

Anyone have issues with the peristaltic tube breaking? Im using L/S 15 pump head with the most expensive new tubing from coleparmer, and I would say...over the last 2 years the tubings have busted about 5 times. Each time its a catastrophic failure, and the saltwater of course destroys the pump head by corroding it.

So, is everyone just using th6 months. easy load heads and not having this issue?

Yes leaks can and have happened. I just regularly change my tube every 6 months. I am not sure what the rated hours are, but I seem to remember about 5000

[zachts]

Anyone have issues with the peristaltic tube breaking? Im using L/S 15 pump head with the most expensive new tubing from coleparmer, and I would say...over the last 2 years the tubings have busted about 5 times. Each time its a catastrophic failure, and the saltwater of course destroys the pump head by corroding it.

So, is everyone just using the easy load heads and not having this issue?

That works out to around 3500 hrs assuming 24/7 use. Most of the high end tubing is rated for around 4000+ hrs at 50rpm, so if running faster than that it might wear out faster, but I don't think that it's unrealistic, you just need to replace tubing more often before letting it fail. Like every 2000hrs or so, I'd say. A lot just replace it quarterly or more often for good measure.

[hkgar]

Is my math wrong? 24 hours time 30 days equals 720 hours per month and in 6 months that would be 4320 hours in 6 months.

[zachts]

Is my math wrong? 24 hours time 30 days equals 720 hours per month and in 6 months that would be 4320 hours in 6 months.

looks like good math to me. tubing life span is just and average. lots of things can effect it and shorten the life, pump RPM, tubing not seated correctly, the type of fluid being pumped, lots of back pressure or excessive vacuum, dirt or debris getting into the rollers, or just a little sharp pointy sediment or sand getting sucked thru the tubing on a regular basis.

I prefer to err on the side of caution and replace things more often on critical components rather than push it to the limit.

[Aqualund]

thanks :)

[moondoggy4]

I put the Masterflex in a closet adjacent to my sump room. Here's some pics of the frag system that I've been talking about and the larger reactor on my displayhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/u4e3a5y9.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/ebupuvu2.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/zabataja.jpg

I bought this unit today, can somebody tell me which model I got? I already have my calcium reactor but not the regulator not sure if I will go the Planet model or build your own.

The head is a 7014-20 the tubing is small like airline diameter. Thanks in advance

[d2mini]

Nice setup, haven't seen one of those consoles before.
Good idea with labeling the tubing date. :)

So you got that same console drive, moondoggy?

[moondoggy4]

^^^^^ Yes I did I got if from a local guy (semi that is 130 miles RT) for 50 bucks. Not sure if I have the correct head or right tubing, the max for this tubing is 15ml/mn, I want 35 to 50 ml/mn.

I guess I could use it for dripping Kalk for now.

[michael.lemke]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/14/884063e18f9a0e7ad55d6ef72913368e.jpg

I am sure this has been discussed already but was wondering if this pump would work well. I found one used for a decent price. I already have the aquarium plants carbon doser and love the results so far. Thanks for any input.

[herring_fish]

Look at post #1179

[slief]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/14/884063e18f9a0e7ad55d6ef72913368e.jpg

I am sure this has been discussed already but was wondering if this pump would work well. I found one used for a decent price. I already have the aquarium plants carbon doser and love the results so far. Thanks for any input.

Yep.. It's been discussed and nope, that pump is not suitable for calcium reactor use. Stenner pumps are not designed for 24/7 continuous duty. Nor can they be slowed down enough to meet the flow requirements of a calcium reactor. You really need a pump that you can control the ml/min rates very precisely and one that can pump continuously down to very low flow rates. +- 25ml/min. While you can adjust the flow on certain models, the motor spins at a constant speed but the adjustment controls a clutch that changes the frequency that the pump head engages in. The end result is that the motor never slows down. They are also TERRIBLY noisy. FWIW, I run a Stenner 85M5 for my ATO pump and they are probably the best ATO pump money can buy but I would never even consider using one for a calcium reactor as they don't offer the kind of precise control needed for calcium reactor use and would also result in flow irregulatities due to the fact that flow isn't constant if you slow them down. Instead it's intermittant due to the pump head clutch engagement.

[michael.lemke]

Yep.. It's been discussed and nope, that pump is not suitable for calcium reactor use. Stenner pumps are not designed for 24/7 continuous duty. Nor can they be slowed down enough to meet the flow requirements of a calcium reactor. You really need a pump that you can control the ml/min rates very precisely and one that can pump continuously down to very low flow rates. +- 25ml/min. While you can adjust the flow on certain models, the motor spins at a constant speed but the adjustment controls a clutch that changes the frequency that the pump head engages in. The end result is that the motor never slows down. They are also TERRIBLY noisy. FWIW, I run a Stenner 85M5 for my ATO pump and they are probably the best ATO pump money can buy but I would never even consider using one for a calcium reactor as they don't offer the kind of precise control needed for calcium reactor use and would also result in flow irregulatities due to the fact that flow isn't constant if you slow them down. Instead it's intermittant due to the pump head clutch engagement.


Perfect, that's what I needed to hear. Thank you.

[tkeracer619]

Pharmed tube is rated at 10,000+ hours. If it is breaking you should call cole parmer and talk to them about it! Something is not right. Consider switching to a ls17 compatible easy load.

I've never had a tube break.

[zachts]

Pharmed tube is rated at 10,000+ hours. If it is breaking you should call cole parmer and talk to them about it! Something is not right. Consider switching to a ls17 compatible easy load.

I've never had a tube break.

Where'd you find that rating at? All I've seen is what CP publishes (4000+ at 50rpm) though that may be very conservative. Since I'm using their pump heads I go by their tube life ratings......

[Bpb]

Really looking into one of these. I see they can be found for a couple hundred bucks if you look hard enough. There seem to be about as many models as there are auctions though. It's like learning the entire hobby all over again

[zachts]

Really looking into one of these. I see they can be found for a couple hundred bucks if you look hard enough. There seem to be about as many models as there are auctions though. It's like learning the entire hobby all over again

Yes, yes it is, but that's the fun of it right?

[swk]

Yep.. It's been discussed and nope, that pump is not suitable for calcium reactor use. Stenner pumps are not designed for 24/7 continuous duty. Nor can they be slowed down enough to meet the flow requirements of a calcium reactor. You really need a pump that you can control the ml/min rates very precisely and one that can pump continuously down to very low flow rates. +- 25ml/min. While you can adjust the flow on certain models, the motor spins at a constant speed but the adjustment controls a clutch that changes the frequency that the pump head engages in. The end result is that the motor never slows down. They are also TERRIBLY noisy. FWIW, I run a Stenner 85M5 for my ATO pump and they are probably the best ATO pump money can buy but I would never even consider using one for a calcium reactor as they don't offer the kind of precise control needed for calcium reactor use and would also result in flow irregulatities due to the fact that flow isn't constant if you slow them down. Instead it's intermittant due to the pump head clutch engagement.


Is this the case for all stenner pumps? I can get a stenner svp 1 pump for 200 bucks. Does this pump use the same method as the above posted pump to control flow?

[Krazie4Acans]

The SVP line is rated for continuous use like the CP Masterflex pumps. Although there isn't any good pictures of what the control panel looks like and whether the readout gives you the volume being pumped or just the percentage, or even worse just a bunch of LEDs in a line that increase as the speed increases. I also don't see one model that covers the entire range the may be needed for use on a reactor. Maybe I just missed that and changing out the pump head would do that.

[swk]

Gotcha. I passed on it as I found it kind of loud but check out this deal. Got all this stuff for 200. Just need a solid feed pump and ph controller and I'm good to go. I currently run a reef angel, but all I need is a probe to read the ph inside the unit, correct? The gas always stays on in this application?

320980320981

[Krazie4Acans]

I hope you got the top to the reactor as well. As long as you have a free probe connection on your reef angel then all you need is the probe. The goal with using this pump is to keep the gas on constant so that the regulator doesn't have to switch on and off constantly and to have a steady metered flow of effluent.

[swk]

I hope you got the top to the reactor as well. As long as you have a free probe connection on your reef angel then all you need is the probe. The goal with using this pump is to keep the gas on constant so that the regulator doesn't have to switch on and off constantly and to have a steady metered flow of effluent.


Yes I have the top with the collar for the ph probe and everything.

I don't have a spare port but I guess there's a ph expansion I can get.

[Krazie4Acans]

I'll take you word for it. I'm an Apex guy so I can tell you what you need for that. :)

[swk]

Is the master flex 7523-70 a good model for a calrx? The only reservation I have is that it maxes out at 100 rpm. Any input?

[slief]

Is the master flex 7523-70 a good model for a calrx? The only reservation I have is that it maxes out at 100 rpm. Any input?

Yes it is. The only downside is it's 100 rpm max. You will be likely running the pump between 17 and 40 rpm continuously assuming you are using LS17 tubing. In a perfect world the 600 rpm version of that model will be better but being that it's a brushless motor, it still should be a great pump. The 600 rpm versions use the same motor but have a 6"1 gear box on them that reduces the speed needed from the motor and thus the workload on it.

Ultimately it boils down to cost. If the price is right, I think you will be very happy.

[swk]

Yes it is. The only downside is it's 100 rpm max. You will be likely running the pump between 17 and 40 rpm continuously assuming you are using LS17 tubing. In a perfect world the 600 rpm version of that model will be better but being that it's a brushless motor, it still should be a great pump. The 600 rpm versions use the same motor but have a 6"1 gear box on them that reduces the speed needed from the motor and thus the workload on it.

Ultimately it boils down to cost. If the price is right, I think you will be very happy.


I got this pump and 2 easy-load II heads for 300. Now I just need to track down tubing. Am I correct in thinking that I just need a section of the tubing loaded into the head? Is that correct? Is the Ls/17 a good tubing for general applications?

[slief]

I got this pump and 2 easy-load II heads for 300. Now I just need to track down tubing. Am I correct in thinking that I just need a section of the tubing loaded into the head? Is that correct? Is the Ls/17 a good tubing for general applications?

Thatts a decent price for that pump with two Easly Load heads. Which model heads did it come with? I assume they support LS17? The 7518-00 and 7518-10's support the Pharmed tubing which is the best tubing. There is a black Easy load that supports LS17 but it's not really designed for Pharmed but it will work with it.

[swk]

This is what I purchased
321274

[hkgar]

I have a black head ( and no I am not going to pop it) model 7518-60 and have not had any problem using Pharmed tubing. Granted I use this particular pump for my ATO so it is far from continuous and I still routinely change the tube every 6 months. So I am not a fair judge.

[chem-e]

Interesting thread and glad to see these pumps used by others. I've been using an old Watson marlow pump for years to topoff my tank with kalk.

They're really well made pieces of equipment but definitely pricey if bought new.

[tkeracer619]

Sorry guys I've been really busy prepping for and going through another knee surgery so I have been absent for a bit.

10,000+ hours was from a ColeParmer Rep. Who was surprised I was recommending changing the tube quarterly. They are easy to talk to and will go to lengths to get you the answers you need. Is the tube you are using expired? Unfortunatly I don't have any hands on experience with the performance series tubing. What I know comes from this thread in that regard. I think it would probably be worth it to swap out to a precision tube set. We know they are reliable, tubing is cheep, and readily available. IIRC this tubing has a shelf life of 6 years from manufacture date if kept in a cool dry place. You could also use silicone grease on the tubing to reduce friction but this has been argued. If the bearings are worn that can also cause rapid wear. If the tubing is stretched tight that also adds to it. Just thinking out loud here but you shouldn't be breaking tubes like that, you are the first person to mention this.

I really like the easy load heads but have several standard loads that have passed the test of time. They are cheaper and can be bought new for a reasonable price. If you talk to them about it I bet they will cut you a deal on a new head.

[swk]

Can any part of this be dialed in before the setup goes "live" on my display?

For example, can I get my reactor ph dialed in before I put the unit in service? Just trying to think of ways to lessen the translation once I pull my lm3 dosing pumps

[hkgar]

Can any part of this be dialed in before the setup goes "live" on my display?

For example, can I get my reactor ph dialed in before I put the unit in service? Just trying to think of ways to lessen the translation once I pull my lm3 dosing pumps

No, not really. Ph is determined by a number of things,
ph of the tank water
flow rate through the reactor
rate of co2 bubbles
pressure (size) of the co2 bubbles.

Ph is only relevant as it is a reflection of the acidity of the water necessary to dissolve the argonite. Flow rate and effluent ALK are the important things to maintain tank ALK.

Here is a link that may be helpful. Not the section on replacing a supplement:

http://reef.diesyst.com/reactor/reactor.html

[swk]

No, not really. Ph is determined by a number of things,
ph of the tank water
flow rate through the reactor
rate of co2 bubbles
pressure (size) of the co2 bubbles.

Ph is only relevant as it is a reflection of the acidity of the water necessary to dissolve the argonite. Flow rate and effluent ALK are the important things to maintain tank ALK.

Here is a link that may be helpful. Not the section on replacing a supplement:

http://reef.diesyst.com/reactor/reactor.html


Ok - so I need to just bite the bullet and change it over? What a great link. Thank you so much. Things have been so stable I'm a bit sketched out on doing this, but I am becoming of the belief that this is the best way of supplementation for sps-centric aquaria.

[EvMiBo]

Does anyone know how loud the SVP Series of Stenner pumps are?

They're designed for continuous work.

edit: finding some info deeper in the thread.

[swk]

Does anyone know how loud the SVP Series of Stenner pumps are?

I'm sure somebody has to be using one of Stenner's pumps, how do you like it?


I recently looked at one when I purchased my setup. It was pretty dang loud imo. I said no on that one because it'll be in my stand. If I was lucky enough to have a remote sump area it would have been a no brainer

[EvMiBo]

Darn, I figured it might be loud. There was another person who was using one with his setup, username mntnbighker. I sent him a PM to get his opinion on it. Hoping my 7523-70 keeps chugging along though.

[troynel]

Would this on work?

http://www.coleparmer.com/Category/Masterflex_C_L_Tubing_Pumps/4437