Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[slief]

Would this on work?

http://www.coleparmer.com/Category/Masterflex_C_L_Tubing_Pumps/4437

Yes but it's not really ideal and probably won't last long being run 24/7.

[EvMiBo]

Troynel, that could work, but you would be very limited. I seem to see most people running their pumps around 30 to 75 mL/min. And that pump maxes out at 43mL/min. Even then, maxing out a pump like that (say you run it constantly at 40mL/min) that has such a low maximum output would probably put more wear and tear on it than you'd like. Assuming you'd be getting it used, I can't imagine the pump would last that long with our type of application. I'd look into a different pump, try to find something with a higher output (running it at it's lower end RPM will help it last longer), a digital readout, and brushless.

[troynel]

Thanks! Can you send me a link to the ones I should be looking for on eBay?

[hkgar]

There are many models discussed in this thread. Brushless are generally preferred. Find a model on ebay and then search the thread.

It is not brushless but this would be a good pump and head to start with.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Parmer-Masterflex-Peristaltic-Pump-7523-20-Easy-Load-L-S-7518-10-Head-Tube-/361327962582?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5420d329d6

[swk]

7523-20 = brushed 6-600rpm
7523-50 = brushed .6-100rpm
7523-60 = brushless 6-600rpm
7523-70 = brushless .6-100rpm


Here's a quick guide to some good model numbers.

[Theokie]

Here's a quick guide to some good model numbers.

I remember how cheap those models used to sell for on ebay before this thread took off, now unless you get really lucky its almost worth buying the 7325-60 and 70, the brushless ones new.

[hkgar]

7523-70 is $1980.00 new from Cole Parmer.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Compare/0752370,07522-30

[hkgar]

I wonder why the Cole Parmer direct replacement for the 7523-60 ane the 7523-70 are standard drive and not brushless? Maybe brushless wasn't (isn't) as good for some reason?

[tkeracer619]

I wonder why the Cole Parmer direct replacement for the 7523-60 ane the 7523-70 are standard drive and not brushless? Maybe brushless wasn't (isn't) as good for some reason?

They are brushless. AFAIK all of the console drives are now brushless.

I remember how cheap those models used to sell for on ebay before this thread took off.
Yup, the price has unfortunately increased rather dramatically.

[hkgar]

I just saw a 7523-60 for 200 plus shipping. That doesn't seem too bad.

There are a couple of 7523-70 for under 400

[swk]

Does anyone have anyone pictures of their geo reactor with a masterflex setup? I'm a little unclear on what order and where the hoses should go. Also, anyone have any idea how to bleed excess air from the lid? I have the calrx in the sump so it shouldn't be sucking air from anywhere that I can think of...

[slief]

Does anyone have anyone pictures of their geo reactor with a masterflex setup? I'm a little unclear on what order and where the hoses should go. Also, anyone have any idea how to bleed excess air from the lid? I have the calrx in the sump so it shouldn't be sucking air from anywhere that I can think of...

I run a geo 818 but my CP is on a shelf away from the reactor and I don't have any pictures of showing how it's plumbed. That said, to bleed it, what I did was turn the recirc pump off and hold the prime button down on the cole parmer. That spins the motor on the CP at full speed which will suck the air right out of the reactor.

[tkeracer619]

Snap a photo of your setup and we'll get you sorted out. If you can pull the effluent from the carx lid > masterflex > out to sump that is ideal. Welcome to the club!


I run a geo 818 but my CP is on a shelf away from the reactor

You've had yours setup for a while, hows it handling the tank?

[swk]

322503322504

Hopefully this helps. I believe I have it pushing through the reactor currently.

Also, I have tried using prime function to remove the air, to no avail. Please note the gas is not hooked up and I am running the pump high in attempt to remove the air. Thanks!

[tkeracer619]

Is the air just some bubbles on the top plate. If so they are irrelevant. The only time this is a problem is when large amounts of air build up and cause the recirc pump to cavitate.

Pulling is generally better than pushing simply because a clogged output could cause the water to leak past the orings, these pumps have a very high pressure capability. If in the sump it isn't a big deal.

[slief]

You've had yours setup for a while, hows it handling the tank?

Mine is running great but probably way overkill for my tanks current needs. I have very little calcium uptake in my tank as my tank is primarily soft coral and some hammers that grow like weeds. I do have a couple small SPS's but that's it. Other than that, my coraline algae grows insanely and if anything, that would be my major Ca consumer. I literally have new rocks growing in my tank while the original live rock is growing by inches from the coraline. Aside from my branching hammer colonies that grow like weeds, the coraline is by far the biggest consumer of Ca in my tank.

That said, the reactor has kept my parameters very stable and the Cole Parmer has made my reactor a 100% hands off perfectly consistent device.. I haven't had to touch the reactor or my Cole Pamer in months now. My caclium stays at about 450 and Alk around 9.2. I got my CP set at 25 ml/min with about 1 Co2 bubble every 3.5 seconds using my AP regulator. I've run Ca Reactors before and the combination of a good regulator and the Cole Parmer can't be beat. It's absolutely fool proof and completely set it and forget which was not my experience with the reactors I ran in the past.

I will also note that I push water through my Geo instead of pulling it through. With it pushing the water, I have no gas buildup inside my reactor. When I first set this up, I had it pulling water through the reactor and noticed some gas buildup inside. I then changed the plumbing around so that the water was being pushed through the reactor in order to expose any potential vacuum leaks which it did. I went ahead & re-sealed all the fittings with teflon paste instead of teflon tape and also removed, boiled and then applied silicone grease to the uniseal. Once I had it leak free and running well, I never bothered to put it back to where the CP was pulling through the CaRX. I figured it was working great so I left it alone and have had absolutely no gas build up since.

[tkeracer619]

Great :), that's about how mine is running at the moment as well... actually my reactor sprung a leak at one of the fittings a few days ago and I have yet to do anything about it other than turn it off :facepalm:

Come to think of it... I should probably get on that before I forget :lol:, I just had knee surgery on the 19th and found out about the leak about 10 minutes before leaving for the Pikes Peak Hill Climb...

[swk]

322507

Here my current bubble situation. I really hope this is normal as I can't get it any better than this lol

[slief]

322507

Here my current bubble situation. I really hope this is normal as I can't get it any better than this lol

That's not normal or you didn't get enough of the gas out... First, did you run the reactor for 24 hours without the Co2 per the instructions? Doing so allows the media to get completely saturated with water so the air can be purgred from it. When you are running the Cole Parmer in prime mode or at full RPM, you should tilt the reactor so that the bubbles are guided to the pipe in the center of the lid. Also, as I mentioned in my previous post, the reactors recirculation pump needs to be off when you are using the Cole Parmer to purge the air.

Did you purchase this new or used? If you bought it used, I would suggest checking every threaded connection and resealing each one. This includes the fittings where the tubing connects too. Like I said earlier, I use teflon paste instead of teflon tape. I would also suggest getting some silicone lubricant and resealing the uniseal at the bottom of the reactor. Remove the seal and apply the silicone grease to both surfaces of the seal.

[swk]

Just plugged everything in about 4 hours ago at most. The calrx sits in my sump, so air shouldn't be entering via any of the plumbing as its all submerged.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[tkeracer619]

Here my current bubble situation. I really hope this is normal as I can't get it any better than this lol

Probably fine, any flat lid reactor will get bubbles in it like that after set up. If it starts to trap air then there is a problem. The air itself won't dissolve in the water like co2 will.

If it looked like that tomorrow I would think there is maybe a leak somewhere but since you just set it up you just haven't gotten all the air out.

[tkeracer619]

If you bought it used, I would suggest checking every threaded connection and resealing each one.

Ya don't say ;)

So here is my leak, I got this reactor for free IIRC. Anyways, the bottom fitting on the second chamber had yellow epoxy coating the fitting, It didn't leak so I left it alone. Last media change I noticed some water at this fitting and put a little weldon 16 around the threads where it went into the tube. The fitting was still leaking and worse now. So I cut off the epoxy with a razor blade, you can still see it in the threads of the john guest fitting. You can also see why there was epoxy. I got this 3rd hand (at least) and somewhere along the way someone screwed in this fitting too tight splitting the glued in pvc bushing. They then used some epoxy in the threads and permanently put the fitting in place.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/446/19297635589_ddd776d35c_b.jpg

I'm not going to risk trying to get it all out to replace as the tube will probably crack and this reactor only needs to last another year or so. I cleaned it up the best I could and starting around the john guest threads put a liberal amount of weldon 16. I then dripped it over the edge along the crack and worked my way around the bushing to encase it. Not perfect by any means and not pretty but I honestly don't care. It's a free fix and I'm sure if some 2 part walmart epoxy can hold for 7+ years weldon will last as long as I need and longer. Now it's just a waiting game, which is fine because I realized I am out of media and it's almost time for a refill...

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/260/18861282784_5777260a83_b.jpg

[swk]

To take advantage of the reactor being in my sump, do you think it'd be easier to remove the ph probe and purge the remaining air through the larger opening?

[Krazie4Acans]

I don't want to hijack the thread but what is everyone using for media of choice? I have been using Rowlith C+ and love it because it's an all in one media. I'm finding it very hard to find this media anymore. I thought about switching to ARM but then I have to add something to help support the Mag levels. Any suggestions or a link to a thread where this has already been discussed? Thanks. Krazie :jester:

[slief]

To take advantage of the reactor being in my sump, do you think it'd be easier to remove the ph probe and purge the remaining air through the larger opening?

Nah.. You will end up with more air when you put the probe back in unless the lid is completely submerged. just shut the recirculation pump on the reactor off, turn the Co2 off and run that Cole Parmer at full speed until you get the excess air out. If you have a small valve on the inlet side of the reactor, you could always plug that up for a few minutes so you can create a vacuum inside the reactor to further purge any air but the Cole Parmer should have no issue sucking the air out. Especially if you til the rector back and forth to help guide the bubbles towards the fitting/hole in the lid.

[slief]

I don't want to hijack the thread but what is everyone using for media of choice? I have been using Rowlith C+ and love it because it's an all in one media. I'm finding it very hard to find this media anymore. I thought about switching to ARM but then I have to add something to help support the Mag levels. Any suggestions or a link to a thread where this has already been discussed? Thanks. Krazie :jester:

I use a combination of Reborn large media and ARM. In my 2nd reactor, I run solely ARM smaller media.

[swk]

Nah.. You will end up with more air when you put the probe back in unless the lid is completely submerged. just shut the recirculation pump on the reactor off, turn the Co2 off and run that Cole Parmer at full speed until you get the excess air out. If you have a small valve on the inlet side of the reactor, you could always plug that up for a few minutes so you can create a vacuum inside the reactor to further purge any air but the Cole Parmer should have no issue sucking the air out. Especially if you til the rector back and forth to help guide the bubbles towards the fitting/hole in the lid.


Thanks for the help. I have been running the reactor all night with the recirc and the cp running at 160ml. I'm using reborn media, which seems pretty porus, so I'm sure it doesn't help. No co2 added yet. I will try purging all the air after work and if I still experience the same issues I'll pull the reactor and go through the damn thing lol.

Meanwhile, my litermeters are quietly running reliably, doing their thing. I swear the fish are looking at me, laughing talking about what an idiot I am for not being able to leave well enough alone.

[swk]

Also, can someone just glance at this for me to see if I'm in the ballpark here? I'm majorly worried about jacking up my parameters and ****ing my large collection of sps pieces off....

Tank is a 75gal display with a 20 gal sump. Currently using 68ml of Randys DIY 2 part recipe 1. I'm going to start with 35ml of effluent and will start the reactor at a ph of 7. I will try 30bpm and hope that gets me near the proper ph in the calrx.

Sound reasonable?

Also - is it normal for the masterflex pump without a head on it to be whisper quiet, and then to be louder with a SS easy load 2 head on it? Simply put, do the head cartridges create noise?

[EvMiBo]

Personally I'd go with ~15 bpm to start out, at ~4psi bubble size. Keep an eye on alk and adjust from there (as long as your alk doesn't sway a lot your coral should be okay). Fwiw, I've always kept my reactor pH around 6.8-6.9 with great results using reborn media. Basically, smaller changes are better..

[swk]

Personally I'd go with ~15 bpm to start out, at ~4psi bubble size. Keep an eye on alk and adjust from there (as long as your alk doesn't sway a lot your coral should be okay). Fwiw, I've always kept my reactor pH around 6.8-6.9 with great results using reborn media. Basically, smaller changes are better..


Great! Thanks for your input. Anyone else please feel free to chime in

[hkgar]

Also, can someone just glance at this for me to see if I'm in the ballpark here? I'm majorly worried about jacking up my parameters and ****ing my large collection of sps pieces off....

Tank is a 75gal display with a 20 gal sump. Currently using 68ml of Randys DIY 2 part recipe 1. I'm going to start with 35ml of effluent and will start the reactor at a ph of 7. I will try 30bpm and hope that gets me near the proper ph in the calrx.

Sound reasonable?

Also - is it normal for the masterflex pump without a head on it to be whisper quiet, and then to be louder with a SS easy load 2 head on it? Simply put, do the head cartridges create noise?

Here is a guide for how to set up a reactor that is replacing supplementing

http://reef.diesyst.com/reactor/reactor.html

[slief]

Also, can someone just glance at this for me to see if I'm in the ballpark here? I'm majorly worried about jacking up my parameters and ****ing my large collection of sps pieces off....

Tank is a 75gal display with a 20 gal sump. Currently using 68ml of Randys DIY 2 part recipe 1. I'm going to start with 35ml of effluent and will start the reactor at a ph of 7. I will try 30bpm and hope that gets me near the proper ph in the calrx.

Sound reasonable?

Also - is it normal for the masterflex pump without a head on it to be whisper quiet, and then to be louder with a SS easy load 2 head on it? Simply put, do the head cartridges create noise?

Take it slow once you switch to the reactor and monitor your parameters daily. Make adjustments either to your Co2 rate and or CaRx flow. I would start your CaRx with about 25ml/min flow and bubble rate around 1 bubble per 3 or 4 seconds and see what happens to your Ca and Alk levels over the course of a week. If they drop, increase the bubble rate, if they rise, decrease it.

As for noise, yes the heads with the tubing installed will generate noise.

[swk]

322598322599

Well, the trick of moving the reactor about while priming did the trick. There's still some bubbles on the media, but I think I have it well enough and went ahead and fired the co2 up. We will see how it goes over the next couple of days

Effluent at 25ml
4 psi bubble every 3 seconds

All checked today via Hanna @ 140. Will test before bed tonight and in 24 hrs.

[tkeracer619]

Sweet! I bet it runs just fine :)

I'd test again before you go to bed and in the am just in case. You want to test frequently at first but at those levels I doubt it would spike anything anyways.

I use regular arm media. I have experience with many different ones over the years but always regular old arm in my setup. Buy it in 50lb bags, if you look carefully you can get it for about $90 shipped through amazon from Caribsea. That's half price of most mail order. If they aren't running that deal Custom Aquatics usually sells it around $120 shipped which is still less than most sell it for before shipping.

[swk]

Aaaannnndddd I just snapped the thread off in a slip fitting in the reactor plumbing. Fml. Looks like this project is over before it started. 322628

[swk]

322629

I'm so frigging mad right now.

[Wills612]

That's sucks...what about a sprinkler riser remover tool?

[swk]

Pretty sure I'll be able to remove it pretty easily. Just ****ed at myself. Have new john guest pieces arriving the 9th so it should only keep me out of the loop for a couple days at most. Better set the damn litermeters back up....ugh


Edit - was able to cleanly remove the busted off piece with a pair of scissors. God bless plastic lol

[Spartanman22]

Has anyone set this up using a Vertex RX-6D? I'm planning on making the jump to a calcium reactor as opposed to dosing on my 100 gallon upgrade. I want to do this thing right from the start, however I'm totally new to the whole calcium reactor side of things. I'm set on the Vertex RX-6D and will use the aquariumplants.com carbon dose regulator but am not sure how to set this model up with a masterflex pump. Does anyone have a picture of their setup with this reactor

[slief]

Pretty sure I'll be able to remove it pretty easily. Just ****ed at myself. Have new john guest pieces arriving the 9th so it should only keep me out of the loop for a couple days at most. Better set the damn litermeters back up....ugh


Edit - was able to cleanly remove the busted off piece with a pair of scissors. God bless plastic lol

I am pretty sure you can get that same John Guest style fitting at Lowes, Home Depot and Do It Center. At Home Depot, they are located in the section with the smaller brass threaded fittings. At lowes, they are located on a wall near the PVC fitting isles. At Do It Center, you can find them in one of the plumbing isles.

[swk]

I am pretty sure you can get that same John Guest style fitting at Lowes, Home Depot and Do It Center. At Home Depot, they are located in the section with the smaller brass threaded fittings. At lowes, they are located on a wall near the PVC fitting isles. At Do It Center, you can find them in one of the plumbing isles.


Thanks. I'll check it out!

[scuzy]

Has anyone set this up using a Vertex RX-6D? I'm planning on making the jump to a calcium reactor as opposed to dosing on my 100 gallon upgrade. I want to do this thing right from the start, however I'm totally new to the whole calcium reactor side of things. I'm set on the Vertex RX-6D and will use the aquariumplants.com carbon dose regulator but am not sure how to set this model up with a masterflex pump. Does anyone have a picture of their setup with this reactor


i jsut got a masterflex and will be setting it up on my vertex 6d. Currently i am running a maxijet on it as feed but will convert to a masterflex when it comes in.

[scuzy]

So i picked up a Cole Parmer 7523-70 MasterFlex L/S Digital Standard Pump Drive w/ 77201-60 Head how much tubing do you need to run this thing?

[slief]

So i picked up a Cole Parmer 7523-70 MasterFlex L/S Digital Standard Pump Drive w/ 77201-60 Head how much tubing do you need to run this thing?

For the pump head, you only need 10"-12" of tubing. I would suggest getting a few feet or more so you have spare tubing on hand.

[scuzy]

For the pump head, you only need 10"-12" of tubing. I would suggest getting a few feet or more so you have spare tubing on hand.

cool i ordered 10 ft.

[hkgar]

cool i ordered 10 ft.

Go back to the 1st and 2nd pages of this thread for how to hook up the small piece of tube.

[tkeracer619]

When screwing in fittings it's best not to tighten them too tight. You can always give them a little extra turn if needed but it is usually best to use a teflon paste if you are having a difficult time getting a good seal.

The fittings are available at hardware stores but you can get the John Guest brand cheaper at US Plastics if you are already making an order. I tend to buy a bunch at a time and keep them handy.

An easy out bit makes quick work of most broken off fittings but things like scissors also tend to work well. What you don't want to do is cut yourself in the process :)

[tkeracer619]

So i picked up a Cole Parmer 7523-70 MasterFlex L/S Digital Standard Pump Drive w/ 77201-60 Head

Congrats, welcome to the club! :beer:

[EvMiBo]

What's the opinion on I/P masterflex pumps or calcium reactor application??

Regarding 77410-10 specifically.

Edit: never mind, just saw the minimum flow rate is 200mL/min...

[hkgar]

I have a Masterflex 7524-00 available. If interested PM me.

[scuzy]

So my masterflex came in anyone have a video or diagram on how to load the tube on the easy load 77201-60 head.?

[tkeracer619]

Toss the tube in, latch it down, and use the retainers to grab the tube without clamping down too tight. I usually leave about 1" of tubing sticking out of each end.

Once I get a good length I tend to cut a bunch of segments to length just to make it easier the next few go arounds.

You can adjust the occlusion (pinch) on that head so you want to back it off, operate the pump, and put your finger on the output adjusting the occlusion until you get a large amount of pressure. You can use a pressure gauge but it isn't really necessary.

[swk]

There are manuals for everything on the cp website. Just google the heads serial number and a link should be given to you.

[hkgar]

So my masterflex came in anyone have a video or diagram on how to load the tube on the easy load 77201-60 head.?

Here is a link to the description of that head on the www.coleparmer.com web site. Scroll down the page and at (near) the bottom is a video showing how to load.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_L_S_Easy_Load_II_Head_w_Adj_Occlusion_for_Precision_Tubing/EW-77201-60?SearchTerm=77201-60

[zachts]

Pretty sure I'll be able to remove it pretty easily. Just ****ed at myself. Have new john guest pieces arriving the 9th so it should only keep me out of the loop for a couple days at most. Better set the damn litermeters back up....ugh


Edit - was able to cleanly remove the busted off piece with a pair of scissors. God bless plastic lol

for future reference don't use teflon tape. Use rector seal#5 or similar plastic safe soft set sealing compounds, and only turn it 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight otherwise..............well, you know.......

[tkeracer619]

otherwise..............well, you know.......

See post 1272 for reference :lmao:

[zachts]

See post 1272 for reference :lmao:

.....or that.....:beer:

[scuzy]

anyone try a 7550-20 masterflex ?

[hkgar]

Should be fine.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_L_S_computer_compatible_programmable_drive_1_6_100_rpm_115V/EW-07550-20?SearchTerm=7550-20

[scuzy]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/ba01b8acf06b9aae74ad7c8dcdb7fb3a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/7056f3470a3d3e27fad8951dd1be78f9.jpg

Got mine going now having masterflex pump into the vertex reactor.

[tkeracer619]

Excellent! Thanks for sharing the pictures :)

Chain that bottle to something so it cannot fall over into the tank. If the lines to and from the sump aren't secured you want to make sure they cannot come out of the sump. You can also remove the needle valve, don't need/want it anymore, you have buttons to push now instead of knobs to turn :)

Can you take a pic of the main chamber so we can see what is going on at the very top between the screen and the lid?

[swk]

Well, I have to say, I'm pretty impressed with this setup. I think my corals like it too as demand has been increasing like crazy since I dialed the system in and leveled everything out. Good stuff and thanks for this thread and everyone who participated. I hope I can pass it on in the future

[tkeracer619]

You're welcome! Stability seems to be key and I have yet to cross paths with a more stable or reliable setup. It has been a pleasure sharing this setup, as the lunch lady at my university always said... Sharing is caring! I couldn't have maintained this thread without the help others have put into it, the participation has been greatly appreciated, and the collective input is beyond valuable !

[swk]

Ha! You know, I was so impressed and got such smoking deals on everything I went ahead and treated myself to a brand new geo 612 straight from George himself. This way I'll have the used one as a spare, or a frag system down the road. The reactor itself is really the cheapest part of this whole setup lol

[tkeracer619]

Awesome!

[swk]

I'll post pics when it gets here, but George was nice enough to customize the lid for me to include a purging valve. He just went ahead and did this as he knew I was running with a cp feed pump. He said that often they're not strong enough to purge excess air on their own. This should solve that completely. I'm impressed to say the least.

[Krazie4Acans]

Has anyone tried running this setup with an Apex DOS instead of the Masterflex pump? It's a very precise pump and is capable of running 24/7. Just curious if someone has already done the research or if I need to pave the way? :)

[slief]

Has anyone tried running this setup with an Apex DOS instead of the Masterflex pump? It's a very precise pump and is capable of running 24/7. Just curious if someone has already done the research or if I need to pave the way? :)

I own a Dos and a Cole Parmer and the Dos would not be the ideal pump for this application. It's not really designed to be run 24/7 but more importantly, the Dos only has 3 different motor speeds compared to the Cole Parmer that can be adjusted almost infinitely. With the Dos you wouldn't be able to get precise enough flow control to slow it down to the rate you would need for the CaRx. You really need a pump like the masterflex that pumps non stop and can be adjusted down to the milliliter per second. Like I said, the Dos has 3 motor speeds which doesn't give you enough control over the flow for this application. It's great for dosing a tank at preset amounts on and off throughout the day but not for running at a very slow constant flow rate 24/7.

[Krazie4Acans]

Thanks. I was thinking more of a scenario where the DOS controlled by the apex and the input of the pH probe. So it would be less of a constant feed setup and more of a pH controlled on demand setup? I think I better do some more research still.

[slief]

Thanks. I was thinking more of a scenario where the DOS controlled by the apex and the input of the pH probe. So it would be less of a constant feed setup and more of a pH controlled on demand setup? I think I better do some more research still.

The problem is that without a consistent slow flow, the effluent line would clog. Plus it would be very difficult to maintain a consistent pH level in the reactor with intermittent flow. It would also be difficult to maintain and or adjust your Ca and Alk levels in the tank without the consistent flow through the reactor. Having a consistent & constant flow through the reactor allows you to easily adjust the levels in the reactor. Between minute flow rate adjustments and a constant pH level inside the reactor that can be easily adjusted up or down depending on the Co2 rate, you can easily control the levels in the display. If your flow through the reactor is intermittent, than thing become much more difficult to adjust. At that point, you would be better off feeding the reactor from a manifold or from a maxijet pump and using a valve to control the effluent rate. Besides, for the cost of a Dos, you can find a decent used Cole Parmer and reap the benefits of having a pump that is ideally suited for our use.

[scuzy]

So technically i can remove the needle nose valve but is there harm if i left it in?

[slief]

So technically i can remove the needle nose valve but is there harm if i left it in?

Remove it. No need to restrict the effluent line and risk clogs. The Masterflex will control the flow now.

[scuzy]

ok i'll pop that guy off. Thanks for the help.

[ianrwesley]

Don't know if this is ok to post... Please remove if it's not. Figure this may help someone out though...

I have a pump for sale on ebay that would work great for a calcium reactor setup. It's a digital masterflex unit.

Ebay item number: 221831231778

Thanks,
Ian

[tkeracer619]

I don't see why it would be a problem. It's not like you are hiding that you are the seller and you meet any criteria RC has, plus... you aren't selling it on here :)

Nice pump :)

[bonzeef]

Can anyone tell me dose L/S easy-load fit in I/P Brushless Variable-Speed (77410-10). The I/P easy-load flow rate is too much for my need. Tx

[slief]

Can anyone tell me dose L/S easy-load fit in I/P Brushless Variable-Speed (77410-10). The I/P easy-load flow rate is too much for my need. Tx

As far as I am aware, those pumps only support the IP Easy load heads and not the L/S easy load heads. Those pumps aren't ideal for our application due to their minimum RPM of 65 RPM. You want a pump that can go from 1 RPM up. Even with the L/S head, LS17 tubing needs 17 RPM to flow at 25 ml/min. Even at it's lowest RPM, the pump you are considering would flow at 95 ml/min with LS17 tubing which is way too much for a typical tank. I would pass on that pump if your plan is to use it for a calcium reactor. Another downside is that it is a power hog and much less efficient than an LS series pump.

[janes_mw]

Just wanted to say thanks to this thread and the OP. My set up has been running for a couple months now and "it just works"! I set it once for initial conditions and then up'ed the dose here about 2 weeks ago. This thing just is super consistent and there is no way the effluent line will clog best I can tell. It was super easy to set the chamber to 6.5 pH and the effluent control is very accurate with the Masterflex. On the CO2 dispensing side of things, the other Thread around 2 stage regulators provided me with another rock solid addition to this system. With that, the bubble rate has not changed once since I set it and it will run the tank right down to empty with no effect on the bubble count.

Anyway, thanks! Great thread :).
mike

[bonzeef]

As far as I am aware...
Thanks for the information. Nice thread btw

[hkgar]

As far as I am aware, those pumps only support the IP Easy load heads and not the L/S easy load heads. Those pumps aren't ideal for our application due to their minimum RPM of 65 RPM. You want a pump that can go from 1 RPM up. Even with the L/S head, LS17 tubing needs 17 RPM to flow at 25 ml/min. Even at it's lowest RPM, the pump you are considering would flow at 95 ml/min with LS17 tubing which is way too much for a typical tank. I would pass on that pump if your plan is to use it for a calcium reactor. Another downside is that it is a power hog and much less efficient than an LS series pump.

That pump is rated from a minimum of 200ml. A little more than I can imagine the average tank needing. Here is the information on this pump.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_I_P_Precision_Brushless_Drive_33_to_650_rpm_115_230_VAC/EW-77410-10?SearchTerm=77410-10

Go to http://www.coleparmer.com/ and enter a model number.

[slief]

That pump is rated from a minimum of 200ml. A little more than I can imaging the average tank needing. Here is the information on this pump.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_I_P_Precision_Brushless_Drive_33_to_650_rpm_115_230_VAC/EW-77410-10?SearchTerm=77410-10

Go to http://www.coleparmer.com/ and enter a model number.

Yep. But that flow rate you mention is with the IP head. My comment was geared towards the question of whether you could run an LS head on that pump. My response was hypothetical and predicated on the fact that even if your could put an LS head on it, the flow would still be way too high at the minimum RPM.

[bonzeef]

Just another question how often do you guys change your brushes on L/S drive since we run it 24/7 . Tx

[herring_fish]

This is minor but has anyone used a mesh like this one? I have seen them on smaller tanks that expel their gasses faster. They keep the user from getting their hands stuck to the tank wall when the temp of the tank drops.

This one is on a bigger tank. It appears to be there to prevent scratches.

http://asaherring.com/reef/hardware/CO2TankNet.jpg

[slief]

This is minor but has anyone used a mesh like this one? I have seen them on smaller tanks that expel their gasses faster. They keep the user from getting their hands stuck to the tank wall when the temp of the tank drops.

This one is on a bigger tank. It appears to be there to prevent scratches.

http://asaherring.com/reef/hardware/CO2TankNet.jpg

Never had my tanks get cold enough to have a need for those but I've used those on my scuba tanks to keep the fancy finish scratch free.

[herring_fish]

Where to you get them?

[renevilleneuve]

I apologize in advance if the information I am looking for is already on this thread. I would like some feedback on using kalk dosing alongside a calcium reactor. I had started with kalk dosing for a while with approx parameters of 9 dkh with calcium at around 450. Then I added a calcium reactor and stayed within these numbers but then relatively quickly my dkh fell and my calcium went higher. My question is what is the relation between these two components and how do I approach the balancing act? When I read the D&D relations between alk and cal they seem to make sense. I don't understand what I am supposed to aim for and how to go about it? My corals seem happy although a large monti seems unhappy. My acans are bulging with joy,my sps seem relatively happy,my numerous fish (40-50) in 400 gallons are healthy.

[slief]

Where to you get them?

It's commonly referred to a "scuba tank protective mesh" and can be had in a wide range of colors.

http://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Scuba-Concepts-Colored-Tank/dp/B003JPI3JS

[herring_fish]

Very cool, thanks.

[scuzy]

How do I prevent air trapped on the top of my reactor?

[slief]

How do I prevent air trapped on the top of my reactor?

You need to find the source of the air intrusion. It's likely a leak some place if you are using the Masterflex to pull the water through the reactor.

[scuzy]

Not sure where the leak could be as I use a master flex to push should I change it to
A pull method?

[tkeracer619]

You could try to do that but it likely won't solve the issue, it may make it worse. There are really two different problems that can cause this. One is a leak but if you are pushing I doubt that would be the cause. Some reactors that have effluent output on the piping and not on the lid of the reactor can trap air. The simple solution is to plug the stock effluent output and pull effluent from the lid. There is little reason to try and recycle the co2 like some manufacturers are doing. If the gas doesn't dissolve on it's first go around it likely won't ever dissolve.

If it is just some small bubbles it's no big deal. If it is a large amount of trapped gas I recommend drilling the lid and pulling effluent from there.

I apologize in advance if the information I am looking for is already on this thread. I would like some feedback on using kalk dosing alongside a calcium reactor. I had started with kalk dosing for a while with approx parameters of 9 dkh with calcium at around 450. Then I added a calcium reactor and stayed within these numbers but then relatively quickly my dkh fell and my calcium went higher. My question is what is the relation between these two components and how do I approach the balancing act? When I read the D&D relations between alk and cal they seem to make sense. I don't understand what I am supposed to aim for and how to go about it? My corals seem happy although a large monti seems unhappy. My acans are bulging with joy,my sps seem relatively happy,my numerous fish (40-50) in 400 gallons are healthy.

I use both on my system, in fact I just re setup my kalk reactor. I have not really encountered this issue. In a very high demand tank I believe this is the way to go. What numbers does it currently run at. I tend to aim for 8,420,1260+

[slief]

Not sure where the leak could be as I use a master flex to push should I change it to
A pull method?

If you are using the masterflex to push, I would check the connections at the tubing on the Masterflex as well as making sure there are micro bubbles where the pump is drawing water from your sump. It could also be residual air in the reactor that wasn't purged out. To remove air, shut the recirculation pump off. Push the prime button on the Masterflex to bring it up to full pump speed and tilt the reactor back and forth to help guide the air to the outlet on the top of the reactor. The flow though the pump should push the air out of the reactor if the circulation pump is shut off. You might have to shake the reactor a bit to get any air out that may be trapped in the media and to the top of the reactor.

[scuzy]

I'm think it might be where I am drawing the water from might need a better bubble trap

[ssdawood]

So I did picked up two 77301 digital brushless units from ebay for 200 each.

Seller is frost liquidation and he has three more units for sale. He will accept best offer of 200 shipped on these.

If anyone is interested

[ssdawood]

Now the main question.

I have a 90 gallon in my living room and a 60 gallon in my spare room.

Can I use one masterflex on the effluent to feed the 90 and the other masterflex on the same effluent to feed the 60 gallon tank.

Basically I am trying to use one reactor, one regulator and ine tank to run two independent systems.

I figured with two masterflex I can use two different effluent rates and keep alkalinity stable on both tanks.

Can this be done.

[swk]

So I did picked up two 77301 digital brushless units from ebay for 200 each.



Seller is frost liquidation and he has three more units for sale. He will accept best offer of 200 shipped on these.



If anyone is interested


That's a good deal. Is it the 6-600 rpm version? I'm having problems finding that info

[ssdawood]

Yes it is

[swk]

Nice. Wish I had the room for a separate controller and pump head. I have the 7523-70 which is the single unit but it's the slower rpm model.

[ssdawood]

http://m.ebay.com/sch/frostliquidation/m.html?isRefine=true

[ssdawood]

He has one digital left and three not digital.

I bought two digital myself. He is taking 200 shipped.

[hkgar]

Now the main question.

I have a 90 gallon in my living room and a 60 gallon in my spare room.

Can I use one masterflex on the effluent to feed the 90 and the other masterflex on the same effluent to feed the 60 gallon tank.

Basically I am trying to use one reactor, one regulator and ine tank to run two independent systems.

I figured with two masterflex I can use two different effluent rates and keep alkalinity stable on both tanks.

Can this be done.

I think it would be difficult at best. When you change the effluent rate you change the ph of the effluent as the flow through the reactor changes this changes the ALK of the effluent.

[ssdawood]

^^^ very true. I forgot changing the effluent will change the pH .

Any other ideas to run two tanks with one reactor.

[ssdawood]

What if I have two effluent holes in the reactor to pull out two effluents. Still no ?

[ssdawood]

Say I pull 15 ml a minute for one tank and 30 ml for my 90 a minute

So total ml is 45 per minute . Does it really matter if I pull 45 ml from one effluent or two seperate effluent holes

[hkgar]

No but each tank is going to have different usage rates. If you have enough patients, I suppose you could reach a balance point. But, one you reach a balance point for one tank, the other will be out of whack, then you change that one and the other goes out. You could probably keep getting closer to balance, but once demand in one tank changes here you go again.

Any chance you could put both tanks together on one system, i.e., 2 tanks one sump.

[ssdawood]

What if I store the effluent in a dosing container and then dose the elffuent from it with a masterflex.

Lol I am sounding crazy now.

[ssdawood]

But you are right. This has never been done because it cannot be done.

[zachts]

^^^ very true. I forgot changing the effluent will change the pH .

Any other ideas to run two tanks with one reactor.

Plumb them to the same sump?

[ssdawood]

^^^ not possible . I wanted to seperate systems

[swk]

^^^ not possible . I wanted to seperate systems


Well then a shared reactor would share water between the 2 tanks. Or am I missing something?

[ssdawood]

Yes that would be another problem too. So I can use one co2 bottle and setup two reactors near each tank. Then use the masterflex to pump effluent in each tank.

[naterealbig]

Hi everyone! First off, that you to everyone who is taking the time to answer the questions on this thread. I purchased a used Cole Parmer dosing pump, rated for continuous duty (don't remember the model of the top of my head).

In the users manual, there is wiring instructions to hook up a switch to turn the pump on and off. Any reason I couldn't use this for my Kalk reactor until I buy a calcium reactor?

[swk]

Hi everyone! First off, that you to everyone who is taking the time to answer the questions on this thread. I purchased a used Cole Parmer dosing pump, rated for continuous duty (don't remember the model of the top of my head).



In the users manual, there is wiring instructions to hook up a switch to turn the pump on and off. Any reason I couldn't use this for my Kalk reactor until I buy a calcium reactor?


It'd be perfect for kalk or ato too

[ssdawood]

Got two questions.

Can you buy ac power cord for these pumps.

Also I have a modular setup. Is there any way to buy cable to extend from drive to motor.

[slief]

Got two questions.

Can you buy ac power cord for these pumps.

Also I have a modular setup. Is there any way to buy cable to extend from drive to motor.

I can't answer the extension cord question but the AC power inlet should be the same one used on most computers. You should be able to find one of those at Best Buy, Fry's, Radio Shack, pretty much any electronics store and maybe even Home Depot.. Hell, my Pioneer home theater receiver uses the same power cord.

[ssdawood]

^^^ Thanks. Anything to look for. I mean any ac cord will do or do I have to match some numbers etc.

[slief]

^^^ Thanks. Anything to look for. I mean any ac cord will do or do I have to match some numbers etc.

Do you have a computer at home? Not a laptop but a full size computer? If so, pull the power cord out and see if it fits. It should and if it does, any computer style power cord will have sufficient gauge wires to work with your Masterflex.

[naterealbig]

It'd be perfect for kalk or ato too

Thank you so much swk!

[hkgar]

^^^ Thanks. Anything to look for. I mean any ac cord will do or do I have to match some numbers etc.

Just need to match the female end. There are about 3 designs. I went to my local computer store (independent, not national) and they had a box of them and just gave me one.

[hkgar]

I use a Masterflex for ATO.

[africangrey]

Any feedback on Cole-Parmer Masterflex 77521-50 Console Drive w/ Easy Load II 77201-60, I am able to get this one for cheap ~$150, do any of you know if the head is brushless and able to handle L/S 17 tubing for 60-120 ml/min, thanks.

[scuzy]

the head is brush less and I think that masterflex would work

[tgbaby1]

So I did picked up two 77301 digital brushless units from ebay for 200 each.



Seller is frost liquidation and he has three more units for sale. He will accept best offer of 200 shipped on these.



If anyone is interested


Got mine today, shipped same day. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/30/1ef15babdd3cdb37b27db798cb655b3c.jpg

[swk]

Nice!

[kewadiak]

Got mine today, shipped same day. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/30/1ef15babdd3cdb37b27db798cb655b3c.jpg


Bummer you bought the last one nice find!

[tkeracer619]

You guys scored on those! Enjoy them :)

[tkeracer619]

Any feedback on Cole-Parmer Masterflex 77521-50 Console Drive w/ Easy Load II 77201-60, I am able to get this one for cheap ~$150, do any of you know if the head is brushless and able to handle L/S 17 tubing for 60-120 ml/min, thanks.

The drive is not brushless. The head is adjustable occlusion (pinch) which is an excellent pump head for water changers as well as reactors. 150 is not bad but know that drive is not brushless. It is still a good setup though, just won't be as quiet as the brushless rigs.

[ssdawood]

Yes I plugged mine in yesterday and it ran flawless. Didn't make no sound.

For 200 shipped it was an amazing deal. Great seller.

[africangrey]

The drive is not brushless. The head is adjustable occlusion (pinch) which is an excellent pump head for water changers as well as reactors. 150 is not bad but know that drive is not brushless. It is still a good setup though, just won't be as quiet as the brushless rigs.

Thank you very much for your feedback, I might not pursuit this setup if its not brushless, to have a constant grinding noise right next to me 24/7 isn't very pleasant. So brush part is on the driver not the pump, I've always thought it is another way around.

[slief]

Thank you very much for your feedback, I might not pursuit this setup if its not brushless, to have a constant grinding noise right next to me 24/7 isn't very pleasant. So brush part is on the driver not the pump, I've always thought it is another way around.

The brushed part is on the pump motor, not the pump head which screws onto the motor. If you look at the back end of the motor along the side, there are two little black caps (one on either side) and the brushes reside below those caps. Comparatively, if you look at the pump shown above, there are no black caps on either side towards the rear of the motor because that unit is brushless.

[ssdawood]

Was also able to buy 50 feet of masterflex l/s 17 tubing for an amazing price.

Good week, pit together the whole list for a calcium reactor at a fraction of price.

Masterflex pump
Dual stage regulator
And geo 612 reactor.

All under 700 dollars

[tkeracer619]

Sweet! You're going to be smooth sailing.

[tgbaby1]

I setup the pump to feed my reactor (geo model type) and let it run without CO2 to purge the air. I let it run for a couple hours and when I come back it has more air than when I left it. I put the feed line in a cup of water and notice that its pushing small amounts of air along with the water.

Is there a special trick with the tubing setup to avoid pushing air into the reactor?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/02/2ba0bcf6657a7a58b66104aebb13bbd4.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/02/85440f0fcb349067e951564214de6357.jpg

[zachts]

my guess your pulling air in from your sump, check where its pulling water from. Also check the suction side fittings (black tubing side) they could be sucking air.

[tgbaby1]

Line in the sump is completely submerged. I put some thread paste on the JG fittings and re-tightened them, seems to have fix the problem so far. I'll let it run for another couple hours, hopefully that will take care of it

[zachts]

I was thinking you may be pulling in micro bubbles from the sump potentially if it wasn't the fittings.

[tgbaby1]

Line in the sump is completely submerged. I put some thread paste on the JG fittings and re-tightened them, seems to have fix the problem so far. I'll let it run for another couple hours, hopefully that will take care of it


I found that I had a small leak in the seam of the flange so I bought a new Geo 618. Now I can't seem to purge all the air from the reactor using the MF. After the unit is running for a couple minutes it generates enough of a vacuum to pull in air through the check valve (no CO2 hooked up yet). Ive tried both pushing and pulling from the reactor with the same result. I put a maxi jet back on the feed and it solves the issue. Any ideas?

[swk]

Go ahead and use the maxijet to purge the air, then connect your cp pump for operation.

I crank up the cp pump as high as it'll go and the physically tilt the reactor to move the air bubbles to the pipe in the center of the lid. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that the Eheim recirc pump is not running when purging the air.

I purchased my new calrx direct from George and told him about my setup. He tapped the lid and put a valve in the lid to help with purging trapped air at startup

[slief]

I found that I had a small leak in the seam of the flange so I bought a new Geo 618. Now I can't seem to purge all the air from the reactor using the MF. After the unit is running for a couple minutes it generates enough of a vacuum to pull in air through the check valve (no CO2 hooked up yet). Ive tried both pushing and pulling from the reactor with the same result. I put a maxi jet back on the feed and it solves the issue. Any ideas?

Shut the circulation pump off on the Geo. Shake the reactor side to side to get the bubbles to the top and then hit and hold the prime button. That will vacuum all the bubbles out of the reactor. You can wobble the reactor a bit more to get any remaining air that may be trapped in the media out.. Also, helps to guide the bubbles to the top hole in the reactor in the event that the floor isn't perfectly level. With my Geo, I found it was best to push the water into the reactor via the Masterflex instead of pulling.

[gw11ucb]

I am looking for a Masterflex pump. Just in case anyone have one for sale at a good price. Thanks!

[hkgar]

I have a model 7524-00 if you are interested. I had been using it for ATO and it works very well. It is 10-600 RPM

[CoralReefBoffin]

7524-00 wow that's old school ! Old salt :)

Unless you bought it used ...

Either way, it's a classic

[CoralReefBoffin]

Tgbaby1. Are you using two Easy-Load II heads intentionally, or did you purchase one used which had two on there for their specific usage ? Curious as to what you've incorporated for the other one ...

[michael.lemke]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/21/3eac9fce4f89acba4d31669e9156b8a4.jpg

I just bid on this on eBay. Hoping it is ok? Will it move enough water for me. Should have looked at this thread before the bid. Lol

[africangrey]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Parmer-Masterflex-L-S-7523-60-peristaltic-pump/301714007392?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33098%26meid%3D404a6377a7a1446c8c132f5056cc c3b5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301714007704

Bidding on a 7523-60 model on ebay, the seller has three and ends at 12 midnight tonight. the only question is it has a head that uses only 15. 24 and 36 tubing, is that ok?

[slief]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Parmer-Masterflex-L-S-7523-60-peristaltic-pump/301714007392?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33098%26meid%3D404a6377a7a1446c8c132f5056cc c3b5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301714007704

Bidding on a 7523-60 model on ebay, the seller has three and ends at 12 midnight tonight. the only question is it has a head that uses only 15. 24 and 36 tubing, is that ok?

Ideally you would want a head that supports LS17 tubing.

[africangrey]

Ideally you would want a head that supports LS17 tubing.

Hi Scott,
Looking at the flow chart of the 77200-52, with L/S24 high performance tubing it can achieve 17-1700 ml/min, and our aim is 60-120ml/min of flow rate, what else should I factor in as tubing of choice. below is the chart copied from Coleparmer website.

L/S Tubing mL per rev Flow rates in mL/min at various rpm
1 to 100 rpm 6 to 600 rpm

L/S 15 1.7 1.7 to 170 10 to 1000
L/S 24 2.8 2.8 to 280 17 to 1700
L/S 35 3.8 3.8 to 380 23 to 2300
L/S 36 4.8 4.8 to 480 29 to 2900
Close

[slief]

Hi Scott,
Looking at the flow chart of the 77200-52, with L/S24 high performance tubing it can achieve 17-1700 ml/min, and our aim is 60-120ml/min of flow rate, what else should I factor in as tubing of choice. below is the chart copied from Coleparmer website.

L/S Tubing mL per rev Flow rates in mL/min at various rpm
1 to 100 rpm 6 to 600 rpm

L/S 15 1.7 1.7 to 170 10 to 1000
L/S 24 2.8 2.8 to 280 17 to 1700
L/S 35 3.8 3.8 to 380 23 to 2300
L/S 36 4.8 4.8 to 480 29 to 2900
Close

The flow rates are decent. Assuming the pump can run at a low enough RPM, the flow rates of that tubing should be fine. I think that the LS24 is odd size tubing. I am not sure what the ID or OD is of that and what you would need to convert that to the typical 1/4 tubing that most of us use on our reactors. The LS17 matches up nicely to 1/4" semi flexible tubing like the stuff used on RODI filters.

Also, I'd say the air for flow rates would be lower than you are expecting. I'm running at 25 ml/min on my 650 gallon system. I'd say typical flow rates would be between 20ml/min and 50ml/min but that will depend largely on calcium uptake and reactor pH.

[swk]

I started at 15ml at a ph of 7 in my reactor and have worked to the current level of 35ml/min with a reactor ph of 6.8

This is in a 75 gal sps system with a 20 gal sump.

[zachts]

The flow rates are decent. Assuming the pump can run at a low enough RPM, the flow rates of that tubing should be fine. I think that the LS24 is odd size tubing. I am not sure what the ID or OD is of that and what you would need to convert that to the typical 1/4 tubing that most of us use on our reactors. The LS17 matches up nicely to 1/4" semi flexible tubing like the stuff used on RODI filters.

Also, I'd say the air for flow rates would be lower than you are expecting. I'm running at 25 ml/min on my 650 gallon system. I'd say typical flow rates would be between 20ml/min and 50ml/min but that will depend largely on calcium uptake and reactor pH.

LS 24 also uses 1/4" hose barb fittings. The outer diameter is thicker if memory serves correctly so you have to buy the real stuff from CP as you won't find the correct outer diameter in generic tubing. The cost of finding the stock tubing would be the only draw back, flow rates between 24 and 17 should be comparable.

[slief]

LS 24 also uses 1/4" hose barb fittings. The outer diameter is thicker if memory serves correctly so you have to buy the real stuff from CP as you won't find the correct outer diameter in generic tubing. The cost of finding the stock tubing would be the only draw back, flow rates between 24 and 17 should be comparable.

Great to know.

[africangrey]

Thanks for the input, the 7423-60 I won from ebay has 72200-52 head attached, paid $430, don't want to spend another $100 for a easy load head if I can help it.

I will search the ID of L/S 24 and see if it can accept a 1/4" john guest valve

[africangrey]

Ok I just found out the ID of L/S 24 is 1/4" or 6.4mm, and the same ID for L/S17, would this be an easy conversion.

[Bpb]

Well I don't even have a calcium reactor, but I came across this masterflex pump at a price I couldn't refuse. I haven't been able to find much info on it, but it's adjustable via the knob, it works, and was used by a reefer who marked where he liked his effluent. Anyone familiar with this model? It's the 77120-62. Is it any use as a carx pump?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/01/9a5b16054fea53e5d73e07dea148be1a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/01/df247fb6e472212ec6fbb2e70d7e5965.jpg

[hkgar]

I have not used my Ca reactor since moving up from my 90 to my current 180. I lost all my coral due to a very stupid mistake. I am just resatrting my SPS and currently dose 2 part - but I have been dosing about 30 ml of ALK daily but no calcium.

My calcium need is very little as I do AWC and the Ca of the replacement water is enough to make up virtual all of my tank's usage.

Now my reactor question. If I start up the reactor (not yet, I don't think my current usage warrants it) how would I prevent calcium raising while maintaining a constant ALK

PS I have two Cole Parmer pumps and used that system to perfection with my 90.

[zachts]

Ok I just found out the ID of L/S 24 is 1/4" or 6.4mm, and the same ID for L/S17, would this be an easy conversion.

same exact fittings, different pump heads are required for the 24 vs. the 17. that's really the only difference we need to be concerned with for CA reactor use.

[machodik]

Well, I scrap the idea using jebao dosing pump and use my Watson mallow to do the job.

I have a questions to ask you guys , I have already 3 occasion that my LS17 hose break and leak salt water of which i am worry it will damaged the pump head then. Although I have change constant on regular basis Of about a month or so to change new portion for avoiding friction caused breakage on the hose wall but it sometimes happens when I was not around .

I wonder any guys also has this incidence like mine ?

[hkgar]

Do you know what type of LS17 tubing you are using? The best to use is Phar-Med. At least that is what I use. Your tubing may becoming brittle.

[machodik]

I been using phar-med tubing too but sometime it breaks while I was traveling and it does flooded my cabinet and I have construct a system using my old air condition auto draining devices to drain the water back to my sump and it works well. Here is the photos ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/04/a51fe5f3bd18a3c4d59273f4c2f0cadc.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/04/f61d37a7acb391129bf583416238c536.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/04/c8b246ffd1eb57b326950306bc4b4bea.jpg

The only concern I have right now is that any salt water get into the pumps heads will eventually causing wear and tear in due time , I wonder how you guys manage to cleaned your pump heads in this kind of event like this ? I understand mostly use Cole Palmer pumps but I believed the pumps head of Watson - Mallow and Cole Palmer should have almost the same structures and parts?

Cheers,


MD

[zachts]

I been using phar-med tubing too but sometime it breaks while I was traveling and it does flooded my cabinet and I have construct a system using my old air condition auto draining devices to drain the water back to my sump and it works well. Here is the photos ;

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/04/a51fe5f3bd18a3c4d59273f4c2f0cadc.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/04/f61d37a7acb391129bf583416238c536.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/04/c8b246ffd1eb57b326950306bc4b4bea.jpg

The only concern I have right now is that any salt water get into the pumps heads will eventually causing wear and tear in due time , I wonder how you guys manage to cleaned your pump heads in this kind of event like this ? I understand mostly use Cole Palmer pumps but I believed the pumps head of Watson - Mallow and Cole Palmer should have almost the same structures and parts?

Cheers,


MD

Can't really see in the pics but it kind of looks like silicone tubing? and more than one type based on color in the somewhat blurry photos the back tube on the lower pump kind of looks like pharmed but the upper pump is silicone from the pic and not well suited for long duty. it has a very short life span. the pharmed mentioned is more of a yellow color and not see thru. (pharmed is a brand name as well and they also make silicone tubes among others) also Norprene is equally good and this is all I use in my pumps (the tan food grade not the black industrial version though I don't really think there would be a problem using the black version for a reef tank). I'd look for a different tube and try that, but even the good tubing can be broken easily if the pump head is not set up right, worn, or over tightened etc........

[deleau]

I am wanting to set up a Ca reactor, since Kalk in the ATO is starting to not be sufficient. My problem is that my tank is a peninsula in my office entryway. Right now my sump, ATO, & GFO reactor are all under the stand. I have my Apex and electronics on a platform next to the tank underneath the stairs.

I have the ability to set up a counter/fish station in a supply office / breakroom. The problem is that I would have to run conduit through the wall and under the stairwell for a total travel of about 12'. Assuming that I set up the reactor and pump in that office on a counter, would these pumps be able to push water that far? The counter would be higher than the sump, but I'm worried about the distance. (If it did work, I'd probably move the GFO & ATO to that counter as well.)

Thoughts?

[herring_fish]

I have 1/4 inch tubing that runs from the garage to the living room which is about 50 feet away. It us all gravity fed so I am not comparing the exact same think but it should be no problem. The up hill part of my system is a result of a peristaltic pump so the volume is the same. If you pump water, it should work.












i HAVE 1/4"

[deleau]

I have 1/4 inch tubing that runs from the garage to the living room which is about 50 feet away. It us all gravity fed so I am not comparing the exact same think but it should be no problem. The up hill part of my system is a result of a peristaltic pump so the volume is the same. If you pump water, it should work.
i HAVE 1/4"

Good to know. Thanks.

I'll be giving this a try....as soon as I can source a Masterflex at a reasonable price.

[Bpb]

Well I don't even have a calcium reactor, but I came across this masterflex pump at a price I couldn't refuse. I haven't been able to find much info on it, but it's adjustable via the knob, it works, and was used by a reefer who marked where he liked his effluent. Anyone familiar with this model? It's the 77120-62. Is it any use as a carx pump?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/01/9a5b16054fea53e5d73e07dea148be1a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/01/df247fb6e472212ec6fbb2e70d7e5965.jpg


Bump...any feedback on this model? Mostly curious if anyone has used this particular one

[Boa1277]

That's a very old model probably uses a brush style motor. These pumps are made for commercial duty so as long as you mantain unit ie change brushes and take care of pump head I am sure it will work just fine, however with that being said there are much quieter and easier loading MasterFlex pumps on the market so if noise is a concern or ease of use you may consider upgrading. Good luck.

[yifan917]

Has anyone tried this unit on the reactor outlet?
http://www.grotech-aquarientechnik.de/product_info.php/info/p170_SP-4800-dosing-pump-for-continuous-operation.html

[slief]

Bump...any feedback on this model? Mostly curious if anyone has used this particular one

It's a very small unit with a much smaller motor and not ideal for continuous CaRx duties. More suitable for ATO use IMO. I'd pass unless you want to use it for an ATO pump.

[swk]

There's a new (at least to me) kamoer peri pump that's advertised for continuous duty calrx use. New it's about 300. Wondering if anyone out there has used one?

[gw11ucb]

Has anyone try this pump? Cole-Parmer Masterflex Computerized Pump Drive model # 900-1255. How loud is it?

[swk]

So I have a question about tuning with the masterflex pumps

Am I only the only person that adjusts a calrx apparently backwards? I swear if my supply is a little less than tank demand, if I increase my effluent by 5-10 ml/min, my numbers go up. Everywhere I read that you should decrease effluent to increase contact time and therefore increase alk?

[Aqualund]

Ive found the best results by setting the effluent to achieve my desired calcium level, and then adjusting the ph in the reactor to change alkalinity.

[Jlentz]

I'm trying to get everything finished up with this and is anyone using a C1502 with this method? I'm trying to figure out how to install a ph probe in the lid without getting rid of the lid output port.

I'm also wondering if the blue in/out ports should be, and can be replaced with John guest fittings or are the blue ones good to go?

[hkgar]

I have a 1502 and on my lid there is a port for the PH probe. I believe it it an upgrade lid though.

[swk]

So, in addition to the 2 geos that I have, I also purchased a second hand lifereef LCR-1. Anyone running one of these and have any tips? Anyone use both this and the geo and have an opinion as to which performed better?

Thanks!

[Jlentz]

I have a 1502 and on my lid there is a port for the PH probe. I believe it it an upgrade lid though.


They appear to have discontinued the lid with the ph port. At least according to marinedepot.

[hkgar]

Might have found one for you

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/korallin-lid-with-ph-probe-port-for-c-1502-3002

Cheaper here

http://www.freshmarine.com/aquarium-kl3123.html

Another

http://www.petsupplynow.net/korallin_lid_with_ph_probe_port_for_c_1502_3002_1141353093.php

Google search finds a few.

[Jlentz]

Might have found one for you

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/korallin-lid-with-ph-probe-port-for-c-1502-3002

Cheaper here

http://www.freshmarine.com/aquarium-kl3123.html

Another

http://www.petsupplynow.net/korallin_lid_with_ph_probe_port_for_c_1502_3002_1141353093.php

Google search finds a few.

Thanks hkgar,

The first and 3rd were dead ends but I gave #2 a shot. I don't think I got that one form google yesterday.

[Jlentz]

Hkgar, did you replace the blue fittings for the in/out with Jh fittings on your 1502? What's the thread pitch?

[hkgar]

Glad to help, but everything you need to know is in this thread. See post number 3 of this thread. This is what I used.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009

I used four, one for the reactor inlet, one for the outlet and one on each side of the L17 tubing.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j409/hkgar1/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/20150914_140028_zpsdywly5bx.jpg (http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/hkgar1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/20150914_140028_zpsdywly5bx.jpg.html)

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j409/hkgar1/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/20150914_140106_zpsvh9ino3b.jpg (http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/hkgar1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/20150914_140106_zpsvh9ino3b.jpg.html)

[Jlentz]

Glad to help, but everything you need to know is in this thread. See post number 3 of this thread. This is what I used.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009



Perfect. Thanks! I was hoping that was it. I ordered some extra. They just shipped today.

I was wondering about how to block the other outlet as well. Is that the best way to manage it?

[hkgar]

I was wondering about how to block the other outlet as well. Is that the best way to manage it?

Best way I could come up with and it hasn't failed me yet.

I use the top of lid outlet to be able to purge gas if necessary

[yifan917]

Bump, anyone?

Has anyone tried this unit on the reactor outlet?
http://www.grotech-aquarientechnik.de/product_info.php/info/p170_SP-4800-dosing-pump-for-continuous-operation.html

[hkgar]

Bump, anyone?

No replies probably means no one has used it.

[naterealbig]

Hi everyone, this is a bit off topic, but may come in handy for others with a Cole Parmer pump. I have 2 contacts on the back of my pump for a switch, that when closed/open will start/stop the pump, without having to actually remove power from the controller (using my apex).

Does anyone have a link for a "plug in" relay that I can control from my Apex, that can open and close the designated circuit to turn the pump on and off?

Thanks!

[slief]

Hi everyone, this is a bit off topic, but may come in handy for others with a Cole Parmer pump. I have 2 contacts on the back of my pump for a switch, that when closed/open will start/stop the pump, without having to actually remove power from the controller (using my apex).

Does anyone have a link for a "plug in" relay that I can control from my Apex, that can open and close the designated circuit to turn the pump on and off?

Thanks!

I've not see such a thing. Have mine plugged into an EB4 along with my Co2 regulator and CaRX circulation pump.

[zachts]

Hi everyone, this is a bit off topic, but may come in handy for others with a Cole Parmer pump. I have 2 contacts on the back of my pump for a switch, that when closed/open will start/stop the pump, without having to actually remove power from the controller (using my apex).

Does anyone have a link for a "plug in" relay that I can control from my Apex, that can open and close the designated circuit to turn the pump on and off?

Thanks!

not sure why you would really need this but you'd have to DIY something with a relay either operated off a spare VDM port or a controlled outlet. I guess it could be nice if you don't have the CP located where it would be able to be plugged into an EB8.

For maintenance one could just wire a simple switch on, if unplugging the pump is a hassle.......

[JB NY]

I have been thinking for a while of changing to a masterflex to control the effluent on my MTC ProCal Ca reactor, the unit I am looking at right now is a 7524-40 with an 7518-10 Easy Load Head would that work? I think it should, I am currently dosing 30ml/min from my Ca reactor. And it looks like the Easy Head accepts LS17 tubing.

[swk]

I have been thinking for a while of changing to a masterflex to control the effluent on my MTC ProCal Ca reactor, the unit I am looking at right now is a 7524-40 with an 7518-10 Easy Load Head would that work? I think it should, I am currently dosing 30ml/min from my Ca reactor. And it looks like the Easy Head accepts LS17 tubing.


Spec wise it looks fine. Looks like a brushed drive from my quick google search so it may be a bit noisy. You'll be so happy once you've made the switch!

[JB NY]

I thought it might be a brushed drive too, the unit would be in a dedicated sump room, which is pretty noisy in itself, so I have no need for a silent pump. But other than that, is the brushed drive prone to failure more than a brushless, or any other reason to get a brushless other than noise?

[swk]

I thought it might be a brushed drive too, the unit would be in a dedicated sump room, which is pretty noisy in itself, so I have no need for a silent pump. But other than that, is the brushed drive prone to failure more than a brushless, or any other reason to get a brushless other than noise?


Technically the brushed units require maintenance of the brushes which I believe includes replacement of them. If the pump is discontinued then it may be an issue to source them. But, wait for one of the more experienced guys to back me up on this. I've really only been using these pumps for a few months and researching them for only a bit longer. If the price is right I wouldn't be too concerned. And, as long as the head supports ls17 and maybe 18 tubing you should be good to go.

[TylerHaworth]

So... I'm looking to pick up a CP pump for my CaRX... After looking on eBay for the past two hours and trying to cross reference stuff, I'm even more confused than ever...

Anyone got a lead on a brushless pump/head/controller that would suit a 180 gallon system?

[JB NY]

Is there any reason I can not just buy the tubing from McMaster?

Both of these seem to be the same as LS17 no?

Silicone tubing
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3038k17/=yytlr5

Tygon tubing
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5552k25/=yytkpz

[Jlentz]

Hi everyone, this is a bit off topic, but may come in handy for others with a Cole Parmer pump. I have 2 contacts on the back of my pump for a switch, that when closed/open will start/stop the pump, without having to actually remove power from the controller (using my apex).



Does anyone have a link for a "plug in" relay that I can control from my Apex, that can open and close the designated circuit to turn the pump on and off?



Thanks!


I've been thinking the same thing. It would be nice.

Unfortunately apex has a wonky, not really well thought out, gpio implementation. (It's actually gpi, they left out the o.) so there is no output available.

Over on the Neptune forums I believe I saw some people using the 0-10v outputs to to drive low voltage relays or arduinos to convert it.
(Technically I guess 0-10v would be considered the outputs but most gpio implementations are setup for 8 in, 8 out.)

For now I'm just planning on plugging it into an EB outlet.

Does anyone know if the masterflex will run ok on a triac output?

[hkgar]

Is there any reason I can not just buy the tubing from McMaster?

Both of these seem to be the same as LS17 no?

Silicone tubing
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3038k17/=yytlr5

Tygon tubing
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5552k25/=yytkpz

The Tygon is not food safe, it is listed for fuel and lubricants.

I don't know how well silicone will hold up with 24/7 usage.

[JB NY]

Yeah I figured that out a little while later. Some other ones I am looking at.

Same as Masterflex Norprene Food Tubing $1.67 foot
http://www.mcmaster.com/#52035k19/=yz7vyx

Same as Masterflex black Norprene $0.96 foot
http://www.mcmaster.com/#51075k27/=yz81cb

Santoprene tubing $0.49 foot
http://www.mcmaster.com/#51225k27/=yz86io

Santoprene and Norprene look to last a long time on a Peristaltic pump.

[Jlentz]

One thing that bugs me about McMaster is that it's often hard to find out exactly what you are getting.

I just stuck with us plastic.

[naterealbig]

I've not see such a thing. Have mine plugged into an EB4 along with my Co2 regulator and CaRX circulation pump.

Thanks for the reply Scott.

not sure why you would really need this but you'd have to DIY something with a relay either operated off a spare VDM port or a controlled outlet. I guess it could be nice if you don't have the CP located where it would be able to be plugged into an EB8.


For maintenance one could just wire a simple switch on, if unplugging the pump is a hassle.......

The CP pump will be used with a Kalkwasser reactor until I can afford a calcium reactor (looking @ the MRC line). The pump would turn on and off several times a day, and I figured if the OEM put a set of contacts to remotely turn on and off the pump, then I should use them :)

The pump will be mounted on the side of my aquarium, right next to an EB8. The proximity isn't the issue, and I can easily put together a DIY job from a basic 120V relay. I just wanted something that looked nice.


I've been thinking the same thing. It would be nice.

Unfortunately apex has a wonky, not really well thought out, gpio implementation. (It's actually gpi, they left out the o.) so there is no output available.

Over on the Neptune forums I believe I saw some people using the 0-10v outputs to to drive low voltage relays or arduinos to convert it.
(Technically I guess 0-10v would be considered the outputs but most gpio implementations are setup for 8 in, 8 out.)

For now I'm just planning on plugging it into an EB outlet.

Does anyone know if the masterflex will run ok on a triac output?

For now I'm plugging it into an EB8 as well. As often as it will be turned on and off however, I thought it may have some effect on the pumps life span.

....I'll keep looking......

[Jlentz]

As often as it will be turned on and off however, I thought it may have some effect on the pumps life span.

.


Yep. It would definitely be better for it. All the power on/off is worse than using the gpio.

Inrush current is what kills power supplies. The gpio is essentially the same thing as pressing the stop button. The unit would stay powered up and ready to go.

It's really a shame Neptune ignores the functionality of the output part of gpio. (I've actually got a list of things I don't like about them but I wouldn't want to go without it).

[JB NY]

One thing that bugs me about McMaster is that it's often hard to find out exactly what you are getting.

I just stuck with us plastic.

A lot of times yes, these all have material PDFs for them so you sort of know what you are getting, they also sell the PharMed tubing as well, it is just $2 a foot more.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#50345k79/=yzpkau

[gdemos]

Help me troubleshoot please:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p1-HNYXlS4

Thanks, -Greg

[swk]

That seems like a very small amount of flow. 8-10ml? Have you tried running at 40ml and raising the ph in the reactor?

[gdemos]

I've been running at 8 mL/min on this setup for several months.
Reactor pH at 6.5. I'd prefer to get it to 6.4 but that's okay. It has maintained my parameters with this cadence at 8.7dKH 460pm Ca 1300Mg.

My only guess, eventhough the pump ran well in the sink, is that the impeller has failed. maybe it has expanded and is running lower than it should.

So after a few days of running at 500 mL/min to purge air, then as soon as I lower effluent to my normal drip rate of 8 mL/min I got the air again... so today I left the house at 30 mL/min to see if this normalizes. beyond this - my guess again is impeller

I run my other reactor also at 8 mL/min with a pH of 6.35 and it maintains my QT system with good stability.

[zachts]

I've been running at 8 mL/min on this setup for several months.
Reactor pH at 6.5. I'd prefer to get it to 6.4 but that's okay. It has maintained my parameters with this cadence at 8.7dKH 460pm Ca 1300Mg.

My only guess, eventhough the pump ran well in the sink, is that the impeller has failed. maybe it has expanded and is running lower than it should.

So after a few days of running at 500 mL/min to purge air, then as soon as I lower effluent to my normal drip rate of 8 mL/min I got the air again... so today I left the house at 30 mL/min to see if this normalizes. beyond this - my guess again is impeller

I run my other reactor also at 8 mL/min with a pH of 6.35 and it maintains my QT system with good stability.

You probably have an air leak for it to suck that much air that quick. Since it's not leaking and you are pulling thru the reactor creating a slight vacuum, the culprit is probably on the intake side of the reactor or the pump. you could also try pushing thru the reactor at high rpm which may pressurize it enough to identify the leak.

If the recirc pumps on the two reactors can be interchanged you could swap them and see if the problem moves to the other reactor to rule out the pump as the issue.

[gdemos]

Ok. I rotated the lines. So my intake (feed) side of the pump (front as you look at the side profile of the head) switched to the back. So now pushing water through reactor as opposed to pulling out... Ran at max rpm. No leaks detected.

I'm going to give it some time today running at traditional low rpm and see if the air creeps back. It could be that I didn't give it enough time (even though I ran it at 500 mL rate for 15 hours +) to really purge all the air. Even with full media the reactor holds almost 10gal of water I think.

[JB NY]

Got mine setup last night.

http://cnidarianreef.com/G270/images/dscn2/2015-09-22%2019.05.46.jpg

[swk]

Got mine setup last night.



http://cnidarianreef.com/G270/images/dscn2/2015-09-22%2019.05.46.jpg


Looks like a solid setup. Congrats!

[africangrey]

My 7524-60 is making some clicking noise when running and I think the sound is coming out of the easy load head unit, is that normal? The click is in rhythm along with speed adjustment. do you think lubing the rollers would make any difference?

[JB NY]

Try resetting the tubing in the rollers. I had that clicking, I just opened and closed the lever a few times and it went away.

[africangrey]

Thanks Joe I will try resetting the tubing and see what happen.
Try resetting the tubing in the rollers. I had that clicking, I just opened and closed the lever a few times and it went away.

[hkgar]

My 7524-60 is making some clicking noise when running and I think the sound is coming out of the easy load head unit, is that normal? The click is in rhythm along with speed adjustment. do you think lubing the rollers would make any difference?

Yes, normal due to wear of the flat piece on the head that connects it to the motor. I solved the problem with a few wraps of teflon tape to eliminate the gap

[zachts]

yes, normal due to wear of the flat piece on the head that connects it to the motor. I solved the problem with a few wraps of teflon tape to eliminate the gap


+1

[EvMiBo]

What exactly are you wrapping the teflon onto?

[zachts]

What exactly are you wrapping the teflon onto?

when you remove the head from the motor there is a metal tab that fits a slot on the motor shaft, the connection wears and gets loose over time, that is what makes the clicking sound as the rollers clear the tubing it "snaps" forward and makes the click.

the tape fills the gap and doesn't let it click.

[EvMiBo]

Nice. Thanks for the tip.

[EvMiBo]

Sorry if this is slightly off topic... I'm switching from a GEO612 to a MTC Minical. I use TLF Reborn (will put that in the larger 1st chamber), but was wondering what people would recommend for the 2nd, smaller chamber? Just a smaller media? Finally, does anyone have a copy of their user manuals? I tried contacting MTC but haven't gotten a reply.

[janey]

Hi, eveyone...
Question I received a MasterFlex L/S pumphead PharMed HP precision tubing 25' 06585-15
From Fleabay. And Thankful received a full refund on it,
Cause the tubing is Solid like a rock.

Any chance on making it flexible again.. any tricks.. ???
http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww69/saltwater6152/_57_zpsn69qgqqc.jpg~original (http://s706.photobucket.com/user/saltwater6152/media/_57_zpsn69qgqqc.jpg.html)

[FarmerTy]

So I bought an old fixed rate Masterflex unit to run my Deltec and it came with this style power plug. Anybody seen this before?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/5d95a3d8723790258dcf0c13031b9359.jpg

Here's the model number of the drive.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/59e0aa7cd16ffc41dc8e3d8498f040f3.jpg

I called ColeParmer and they were clueless on it but were very helpful otherwise. Before I cut this and splice it with a regular plug, I wanted to throw it in here first.

Anybody?

[slief]

Hi, eveyone...
Question I received a MasterFlex L/S pumphead PharMed HP precision tubing 25' 06585-15
From Fleabay. And Thankful received a full refund on it,
Cause the tubing is Solid like a rock.

Any chance on making it flexible again.. any tricks.. ???
http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww69/saltwater6152/_57_zpsn69qgqqc.jpg~original (http://s706.photobucket.com/user/saltwater6152/media/_57_zpsn69qgqqc.jpg.html)

Try putting a piece of it in a pot of boiling water for several minutes. That should soften it up.

[hkgar]

So I bought an old fixed rate Masterflex unit to run my Deltec and it came with this style power plug. Anybody seen this before?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/5d95a3d8723790258dcf0c13031b9359.jpg

Here's the model number of the drive.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/59e0aa7cd16ffc41dc8e3d8498f040f3.jpg

I called ColeParmer and they were clueless on it but were very helpful otherwise. Before I cut this and splice it with a regular plug, I wanted to throw it in here first.

Anybody?

Unless I am mistaken, you have purchased a pump drive and the plug you see is to be plugged into a controller that tells the drive what to do.

MNever mind I just double checked and I am wrong. It is a fixed speed pump. So I have no idea why the plug. The fixed rate is 6 RPM whch will therefore not allow for changeing the ml rate without changing the tubing.

[Krazie4Acans]

How precise does the adjustment on the pump need to be? I found one that is adjustable from 0-130ml/min in 0.5ml increments. Do you think that one will work or is that not fine enough adjustment?

[JB NY]

I think that .5ml is plenty.

[jimmy007]

Can a Litermeter dosing unit so the same?

[slief]

Can a Litermeter dosing unit so the same?

No. The LM pumps are not designed for continuous duty and their pumps divide dosing amounts up by they day. They don't allow finite control over continuous flow. Instead the pump a small amount broken up over the course of a day. Their slave pumps with the AC adapter could run constantly but they aren't designed to and don't allow you to control the rate of flow which is critcal. Essentially the Calcium reactor needs constant flow and you want to be able to slow the flow down to meet the needs of the tank. In many cases, a constant flow rate of 25-50ml a minute is needed. I have a 650 gallon system and run my Cole Parmer at about 25 ml/min but I have relatively low calcium uptake. A smaller tank may require even lower flow rates or higher depending on the calcium use. They key is being able to adjust that flow to meet your tanks needs and have it constant so that the pH in the reactor is consistent and also to avoid the effluent line from clogging.

[jimmy007]

No. The LM pumps are not designed for continuous duty and their pumps divide dosing amounts up by they day. They don't allow finite control over continuous flow. Instead the pump a small amount broken up over the course of a day. Their slave pumps with the AC adapter could run constantly but they aren't designed to and don't allow you to control the rate of flow which is critcal. Essentially the Calcium reactor needs constant flow and you want to be able to slow the flow down to meet the needs of the tank. In many cases, a constant flow rate of 25-50ml a minute is needed. I have a 650 gallon system and run my Cole Parmer at about 25 ml/min but I have relatively low calcium uptake. A smaller tank may require even lower flow rates or higher depending on the calcium use. They key is being able to adjust that flow to meet your tanks needs and have it constant so that the pH in the reactor is consistent and also to avoid the effluent line from clogging.

Thanks. I'm now on a search for Masterflex unit.

[tkeracer619]

Hey guys!

I'm still alive, however extremely busy at work. I will be resuming normal business hours mid next week and will be more active on the forums again!

Just wanted to swing by and say hi to my favorite reefers after responding to a couple pms that have been sitting in my inbox... for like a month.

Anyways, howdy :wave:.

[africangrey]

welcome back, you have been very instrumental on thinning our wallet with the colepalmer pumps.

[hkgar]

Welcome back.

[swk]

Loving this setup. I'm currently using a 7523-70 but just closed the deal on a 7523-60 which has the more ideal gearing. Best part is I made an offer for 250 and we settled at 260. Score!!!

[tkeracer619]

Awesome! These suckers are pricey but how about that stability!

[ReefRescue]

Thanks tkeracer619 for the write up. I have been sharing this write up with all hobbyists that have nightmares with CR setups.
This is a mandatory read tread for everybody that complains about the inconsistency of calcium reactors.

[swk]

Anyone have any info on what rpm would correlate with ml? Standard 7523-60 unit with ls17 tubing.

Currently using a 7523-70 at 35ml and this new one doesn't give the option. Only 30, or 40 ml options.

[slief]

Anyone have any info on what rpm would correlate with ml? Standard 7523-60 unit with ls17 tubing.

Currently using a 7523-70 at 35ml and this new one doesn't give the option. Only 30, or 40 ml options.

The flow per RPM is based on the head you are using. With a typical Easy Load head like a 7518-10, LS-17 tubing flows at 2.8ml/min per RPM. If you search for your head model on the Cole Parmer site, under specs, there is usually a link to the flow chart.

Here is the chart for the 7518-10 which again would represent the flow for the Easy Load and Easy Load II heads.
http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/image_zpskdk1xotn.jpeg

[swk]

Perfect! Thank you so much!

[troynel]

Just curious as to how necessary one of these pumps are to running a calcium reactor? What are the negatives if you don't?

[slief]

Just curious as to how necessary one of these pumps are to running a calcium reactor? What are the negatives if you don't?

The negatives are constant plugging of the effluent line on the reactor and no where near as stable pH inside the reactor because the flow in the reactor changes as the effluent line clogs. The other downside is that you have nowhere near the fine level of control using a needle valve to control the flow through the reactor. The Masterflex allows for infinitely more control over the flow through the reactor which gives you much better control over the Ca/Alk levels in your tank and a much more consistent reactor. Not only that but with a Masterflex and a good regulator, a controller really never has to intervene. My pH levels are so consistent inside my reactor that my Apex never shuts my Co2 regulator off. I haven't had to touch my calcium reactor since I set it up and got it fine tuned.

This is a 7 day graph of my calcium reactor pH. There isn't more than .1 pH in fluctuation over the course of a week and it pretty much follows the tanks Ph in terms of higher during the day and lower at night. Day to day fluctuation is generally no more than .05 pH but it's gone from hot to cold and back to hot outside which has some impact on my tanks temps as well. That in turn has a slight impact on the tanks pH levels. My Apex NEVER has to intervene with the Co2 regulator. Between the Cole Parmer and my Aquarium Plants regulator, my pH in the reactor is always spot on consistent.

You only get this kind of long term stability with a good regulator and a Masterflex pump. It makes a reactor a set it and forget it device.
http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/image_zps1tuuulmc.png

[swk]

Hi everyone! I think there was a 3M product that guys were using on the female end of the pump head/body connection, sort of a hot dog and bun kind of deal....anyways, it gets rid of the rhythmic clicking noise from the pump head. Mine happens about 4 times per revolution...

[hkgar]

I use Teflon tape on the male end of the connection.

[swk]

I use Teflon tape on the male end of the connection.


Tried that last night and it worked great. It must've compressed over night as its faintly making the noise again...I'm wondering if getting a newer pump head would help?

Does anyone know who makes an aftermarket second chamber?

[hkgar]

Tried that last night and it worked great. It must've compressed over night as its faintly making the noise again...I'm wondering if getting a newer pump head would help?

Does anyone know who makes an aftermarket second chamber?

just add a couple more wraps of the tape.

[slief]

Does anyone know who makes an aftermarket second chamber?

You could use almost any reactor for a second chamber. Avast has some good priced ones that are well made.

[Jlentz]

You could use almost any reactor for a second chamber. Avast has some good priced ones that are well made.


I was curious about that as well. I've got an extra brs reactor I'm not using and I was thinking about trying to set it up as a second chamber.

[swk]

Off topic, but is it normal to have to increase the amount of gas after adding a check valve? I added a second valve to my system and reactor PH rose to 6.9 and was difficult to raise back up. I took it off a few minutes ago to see what happens but figured I'd throw the question to you all as well. Thanks!

[this is me]

Guys,
Just want to confirm that these pumps have no issue with head pressure? I'm planning on setting up the CA reactor down the basement and the effluent line will be ~10feet up.

[slief]

Guys,
Just want to confirm that these pumps have no issue with head pressure? I'm planning on setting up the CA reactor down the basement and the effluent line will be ~10feet up.

No issues with head pressure. These pumps pout out 20 psi+ and can push water around the block. 10' up would be no issue at all.

[this is me]

Cool. Thanks!
I'm hoping to get a 7520-40 and set up my Schuran reactor. The pump is the only missing component.

[slief]

Cool. Thanks!
I'm hoping to get a 7520-40 and set up my Schuran reactor. The pump is the only missing component.

That would be a great choice.

[hkgar]

Guys,
Just want to confirm that these pumps have no issue with head pressure? I'm planning on setting up the CA reactor down the basement and the effluent line will be ~10feet up.

I used one for ATO because my run was 8 feet of verical and 35 feet of horizontal. I have since moved the sump to the basement but still use a Cole Parmer for ATO.

[this is me]

Okay, how loud are these pumps?
I have the 20RPM fixed browish yellow Masterflex and it's loud. I don't really care that much as it will be in the basement but still.

[swk]

Okay, how loud are these pumps?
I have the 20RPM fixed browish yellow Masterflex and it's loud. I don't really care that much as it will be in the basement but still.


I have a 10–600 RPM unit that is brushless and is virtually impossible to hear anything. I also have a 6–100 RPM unit that is brushless and it makes a little bit more noise, but not much.

The single most important thing if you're looking for a quiet pump is to get a brushless model