Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[Bpb]

I'm no expert but as I understand it the thin walled tubing doesn't last quite as long, but is a little more precise as far as flow adjustments go?


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[hkgar]

It seems that the start up directions for CA reactors specify xx drops per minute. Anyone know of a conversion factor for drops per ml? It might help those switching over to Masterflex determine a starting point based on what they where dripping.

I know it probably depends on tube size -i.d. But, the same size tubing is used in either method.

[dendrite]

for a normal "dropper" it's usually 10qtts/ml

[hkgar]

So 30 drops would be 3 ml

And 30 ml would be 300 drops per minute (qtts)?

[dendrite]

yes, for a normal dropper that most of us are used to. Some micro droppers often used in medical or laboratory scenarios are 60qtts/ml

[scuzy]

Anyone ever get the intake tube before the calcium reactor clogged? Like its calcium buildup and clogging the tube.


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[tkeracer619]

Ok, I give up. What's the difference between LS17 and Ls 24 tubing, They both have the same flow characteristics, and would fit the same fittings so why the concentration on LS 17. Heads that accept Ls 24 seem to be in much greater availability and lower price on E-Bay then the Ls 17 heads

Wall thickness. There is no difference as long as you are using the proper tube material in a head that accepts it. Not all tube is created equal, some is rated for 10,000 hours, some is rated at 40. Pharmed BPT is what you want.

It seems that the start up directions for CA reactors specify xx drops per minute. Anyone know of a conversion factor for drops per ml? It might help those switching over to Masterflex determine a starting point based on what they where dripping.

I know it probably depends on tube size -i.d. But, the same size tubing is used in either method.

It's mostly irrelevant. Instead of guessing measure, the reactors effluent flow before installing the pump. Set the pump to match and it will be exact. If you have to guess I would recommend started as low as you can go and work your way up.

Anyone ever get the intake tube before the calcium reactor clogged? Like its calcium buildup and clogging the tube.



Not that I'm aware of.

[scuzy]

I recently had my tubes checked and it was clogged solid. Use my master flex as push pump so it was sucking water in and pushing it into the reactor. The portion of the tubes clogged was where the masterflex pushed into my calcium reactor. That tube was clogged solid. i head to replace. Not sure why though.


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[africangrey]

Since we are on the subject of tubing what are the differences between the platinum or peroxide cured in our application, does platinum silicon last longer thus commands a $10 more in price tag?


Wall thickness. There is no difference as long as you are using the proper tube material in a head that accepts it. Not all tube is created equal, some is rated for 10,000 hours, some is rated at 40. Pharmed BPT is what you want.



It's mostly irrelevant. Instead of guessing measure, the reactors effluent flow before installing the pump. Set the pump to match and it will be exact. If you have to guess I would recommend started as low as you can go and work your way up.



Not that I'm aware of.

[Reefer525XL]

Not sure if this has been asked before but I could not find an answer. Last night around 1am I experienced my first power outage since installing the Masterflex pump. The outage only lasted for a second or two, I rarely check my tank after a power outage because I know everything comes back on with no issues and my skimmer has a delay. This morning I got a text message from my apex because the pH in the calcium reactor was to low and it had turned off the regulator, turns out the Masterflex came back on but the motor did not start, I had to manually start it by pressing start.

My question is, is there a way of getting the motor in the Masterflex pump to automatically run after a power outage? I have the 77301-20 bench top system.

[vhuang168]

http://www.masterflex.nl/Downloads/07523-60-70manual.pdf

Pg 2 of the manual.


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[Reefer525XL]

http://www.masterflex.nl/Downloads/07523-60-70manual.pdf

Pg 2 of the manual.


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Thank you!

[Reefer525XL]

I have another questions... This might be a dumb question but I don't want to risk damaging the pump.

Will turning off the pump via the apex cause any damage to the controller or pump/motor? The controller as a switch on the back to power the unit on & off. Is turning it off with the switch the same as simply unplugging the cable or just cutting the power off via the apex?

When I do water changes I drain water out of the middle section of my sump and that is where the intake for the Masterflex is. If I don't stop the pump it will eventually suck in air. I have been stopping the motor manually by pressing start/stop while I do the water change but having the apex automatically shut it off would be better. (No risk of me forgetting to turn it back on)

[Bpb]

Isn't it perfectly safe for these to draw in air since its peristaltic?

Edit: never mind I guess you don't want air pumping into the carx lol

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[slief]

I have another questions... This might be a dumb question but I don't want to risk damaging the pump.

Will turning off the pump via the apex cause any damage to the controller or pump/motor? The controller as a switch on the back to power the unit on & off. Is turning it off with the switch the same as simply unplugging the cable or just cutting the power off via the apex?

When I do water changes I drain water out of the middle section of my sump and that is where the intake for the Masterflex is. If I don't stop the pump it will eventually suck in air. I have been stopping the motor manually by pressing start/stop while I do the water change but having the apex automatically shut it off would be better. (No risk of me forgetting to turn it back on)

That shouldn't cause any issues. On the other hand, why not extend the inlet side of the line deeper into your sump so you don't need to worry about it drawing air?

[Reefer525XL]

That shouldn't cause any issues. On the other hand, why not extend the inlet side of the line deeper into your sump so you don't need to worry about it drawing air?

I could do that but I wanted to keep the line far off the bottom of the sump to prevent it from sucking in any detritus. I could re-route the line to my skimmer section which stays filled during the water change.

[hkgar]

I could do that but I wanted to keep the line far off the bottom of the sump to prevent it from sucking in any detritus. I could re-route the line to my skimmer section which stays filled during the water change.

That would be the best idea.

[tkeracer619]

I have another questions... This might be a dumb question but I don't want to risk damaging the pump.

Will turning off the pump via the apex cause any damage to the controller or pump/motor? The controller as a switch on the back to power the unit on & off. Is turning it off with the switch the same as simply unplugging the cable or just cutting the power off via the apex?

If you can, set it up to turn off via the start/stop input on the back of the unit. A breakout box or using a relay would make this easy and is likely better for the unit. I cannot say for sure it's worse for the unit to power cycle but I have a suspicion it is.

[tkeracer619]

Since we are on the subject of tubing what are the differences between the platinum or peroxide cured in our application, does platinum silicon last longer thus commands a $10 more in price tag?

Platinum cured tubing is about 30% stronger in terms of tearing. For our applications since we are (should be) changing tubing long before the expected lifespan i'm not sure it matters so much. Though, in the hobby of excess, why not spend the extra $10?

[Reefer525XL]

If you can, set it up to turn off via the start/stop input on the back of the unit. A breakout box or using a relay would make this easy and is likely better for the unit. I cannot say for sure it's worse for the unit to power cycle but I have a suspicion it is.

Have you done this before? a diagram showing how to wire it would be great. Worse case scenario I can just physically stop it by pressing stop on the unit.

[BillFW]

Have you done this before? a diagram showing how to wire it would be great. Worse case scenario I can just physically stop it by pressing stop on the unit.
Cole Parmer should have the manuals available on line.

[vhuang168]

Cole Parmer should have the manuals available on line.



You can find manuals for most models.

[dendrite]

Thanks TKERacer for the thread. I just set up a masterflex propelled MRC cr1 for my 180 gallon reef and 50 refugium. I purchased a used 100 RPM digital brushless pump which came with a easy load 2 head. It's quiet , effective, and I stare at it as if a work of art. I run 75cc/min at 6.4pH and it holds the dkh between 8 and 9. Your instructions and following comments on set-up and adjustments were invaluable. While at it I also for very little money purchased a fixed 6 RPM cole parmer with two heads and run an AWC for a frag tank. Thanks again

[gus6464]

I have a quick question. I have a 6-600rpm console drive masterflex with a single head. If I wanted to covert it to dual head is it as simple as just adding a second head and getting longer bolts to attach them?

[slief]

I have a quick question. I have a 6-600rpm console drive masterflex with a single head. If I wanted to covert it to dual head is it as simple as just adding a second head and getting longer bolts to attach them?

Yes it is. Just get a 2nd head and the longer screws.

[gus6464]

Yes it is. Just get a 2nd head and the longer screws.

K awesome thanks.

[Reel North]

As a base, what are a couple of good ones on eBay right now that aren't $1000?

My head exploded reading this thread!

[Dapg8gt]

As a base, what are a couple of good ones on eBay right now that aren't $1000?

My head exploded reading this thread!

I have a brushed unit and a brushless unit I'm going to let go, if your interested send me a Pm if your interested..

Daniel

[swk]

I have a brushed unit and a brushless unit I'm going to let go, if your interested send me a Pm if your interested..



Daniel



Hey Dan. What models are you selling?

[Jlentz]

As a base, what are a couple of good ones on eBay right now that aren't $1000?



My head exploded reading this thread!



This is literally the hardest part of setting this up. I just started searching eBay for master flex and watched for a bit.


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[Bpb]

You'll have better luck posting a WTB ad on here and other national Reef forums. That way you get a unit you know is appropriate for our uses. And it's often cheaper than you'll find on eBay. I posted up an ad and had pump in hand literally one week later. Previously I had been drowning in eBay confusion and thread searching this and that model number seeing if it'll work


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[Reel North]

Ad is up. I work too much. Brain. Burning

Thanks for the idea

[hkgar]

I have a Masterflex 7524-00 available. $200, does need a pump head.

[Dapg8gt]

Hey Dan. What models are you selling?

Hey what's up Shawn creeped on your thread man your tanks banging, congrats =)..

Don't want to deviate too much in this thread and get away from the main objective but It was a 77301-22 & 21 brushless unit and easy load 2 head. Original poster took it..

I have various others but I'm going to keep the one brushless unit I have left in case switch back from 2 part. brushed ones and one other brushless (for repair) will be going up for sale in a Fs thread soon..

[Breadman03]

I just set up a CARX using a Watson Marlow pump. I will obviously have to match alk consumption, but here's my pH graph. Can you tell when I made my last needle valve adjustment? Bear in mind that the unit got CO2 about 22 hours ago...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/a9525c02e197813139d1201a8e809b61.jpg

[souk]

would this model work L/S 7551-00? There are so many models out there its confusing.

thanks

[slief]

would this model work L/S 7551-00? There are so many models out there its confusing.

thanks

If you're talking about the newer style Masterflex Digital in the link below, that is a GREAT brushless pump and is basically the same one I use.
http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_L_S_Computer_Compatible_Digital_Drive_600_rpm/EW-07551-00?SearchTerm=7551-00

[Bpb]

My easy load 2 head rollers are clicking badly when I use brand new master flex brand tubing, but when I use the older slightly worn master flex tubing it is dead silent. What gives?


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[slief]

My easy load 2 head rollers are clicking badly when I use brand new master flex brand tubing, but when I use the older slightly worn master flex tubing it is dead silent. What gives?


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Some heads are made for the softer precision tubing which is clear and others are designed for the heavier pharmed tubing which is beige. My guess is that you are either using the wrong tubing in your head or your head is getting tired and something is wearing out in it. Often though, the clicking is where the head connects to the pump motor. There is a key slot where the head and pump connect and the play between the two connections will generate a clicking noise as well. Some people wrap some Teflon tape on the tip of the pump head to thicken the key where it goes into the pumps slop to eliminate the slop. Others use a sticky tape like material to eliminate the slop.

[Bpb]

Same tubing. Cut from the same length. It's the clear precision tubing matched to the head. I'll try some Teflon tape


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[swk]

I had the clicking occur when debris was blocking the intake. Moved the intake line and it went away instantly

[Bpb]

The clicking was with brand new tubing and line during a leak test on an empty reactor. Went away when I switched back to the slightly worn tubing, and continued to when a/b testing back and forth dry


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[ReefPharmer]

hey if anyone has a spare head thats the 7518-60 model or need a 77200-62 model, please contact me, I am trying to set up a auto water changer and need that 7518-60 head

[Reel North]

I just picked up the MASTERFLEX pump and quick load head model 7021-20 from Dan.

It's a beauty!

I'm trying to figure out the right tubing to order for it. I was looking at this from page 1 of the thread.

I have a Lifereef CR2 with the quick disconnect fittings. The reactor feeds from the bottom, and the effluent goes out the top.

The tubing seems to be bigger than 1/4". I'm thinking its 3/8".

What fittings am I using to connect the pump tubing to the caRX ? Head. Hurting.

EDIT

Spoke to Jeff. Tubing is 3/8 OD and 1/4" ID

Figured it out.

Going to be nice to get away from valves for control.

[hkgar]

I just picked up the MASTERFLEX pump and quick load head model 7021-20 from Dan.

It's a beauty!

I'm trying to figure out the right tubing to order for it. I was looking at this from page 1 of the thread.

I have a Lifereef CR2 with the quick disconnect fittings. The reactor feeds from the bottom, and the effluent goes out the top.

The tubing seems to be bigger than 1/4". I'm thinking its 3/8".

What fittings am I using to connect the pump tubing to the caRX ? Head. Hurting.

EDIT

Spoke to Jeff. Tubing is 3/8 OD and 1/4" ID

Figured it out.

Going to be nice to get away from valves for control.

Use LS 17 tubing. and the fittings needed are explained in the third post to this thread.

[Reel North]

ordered it last night. That would have taken ages to figure out otherwise.

Thanks!

[maxxII]

I have an older used 7520-25 pump with a 7018 head I purchased awhile back with the intent to use it on an Elliot Style frozen food feeder.....

Will this work for the purpose of feeding/pulling a calcium reactor? I already have the Geo 618, just considering whether or not I can use this Cole Parmer Masterflex pump for my needs.

Thanks

[hkgar]

The pump should work, it is rated at 6-600 rpm. You will want to use L17 tubing and the head needs to be rated for that tubing. The head model should, like the pump, have two more numbers 7518-XX.

Visit www.coleparmer.com to look up the head.

[Reel North]

Just got the pump installed.

I can't WAIT to have consistency!.........

[EvMiBo]

Hello everyone,
I've decided to sell my 7523-70 masterflex, easy load LS 7518-10 head, about 20' of LS 17 tubing, plastic nipples, and some rigid masterflex tubing.

The pump operates just fine, but does have a slight, high pitch squeak. I'm not sure what from.

low (1-100) rpms.

If anyone is interested please PM me.

[watsonj]

I have a complete Masterflex setup with ultimate regulater ext in for sale threads.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24646473#post24646473

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8588/15419102673_18d92ffa58_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/puwW2P)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/puwW2P) by watsonj0 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/83786831@N08/), on Flickr
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8678/15851483110_db1a4cfa56_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q9JZEW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/q9JZEW) by watsonj0 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/83786831@N08/), on Flickr

[souk]

Most of the reactors currently use is the 1/4" John Guest tubing. For longer runs or commercial units use 3/8 JG tubing. These are my suggestions for LS17 tubing. Each situation might require something different but for most of us this first group will be the one. The best tubing I am aware of right now is Pharmed Tygon supplied by US Plastics. It has a long life exposed to this environment. I change the tube once every quarter. It will last longer but... its cheep to be proactive. The qty suggested is good for about 2.5 years if kept away from radiation.

**** For 1/4" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36204

(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009

(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082

(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534





so I'm placing my order for the part and was just wondering why I would need 3 of the first 2 in the link and why 4 on the third link.

thanks

[Haksar]

Hello Guys,

Good to know that this thread is going strong . I was inactive for some time but now I am back with the same setup I had earlier which is Geo618 , 200 gallon tank and a CP 7523-40 pump. I am pulling the water but the best part after resetting the reactor is that I no more have bubbles in the reactor so one head ache less. However I am unable to get the ph up from 6.1 or 6.2 to 6.5 based on a setting of 30ml/min , 3 seconds per bubble and 3 psi.

Moreover I am unable to increase the ml/min on the pump based on increment of 5ml/min. I can increase based on 10ml/min meaning if my current reading is 30ml/min I can increase to 40ml/min and not to 35ml/min . Is there any setting I need to change. However my biggest headache is I am unable to increase the ph. Kindly advise.

[vhuang168]

Increase the time between bubbles? In other words lower the bubble rate. Or you can turn off the CO2 altogether and increase the feed rate till you get to a ph you like then adjust the feed rate down and decrease the bubble rate to maintain


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[Haksar]

Increase the time between bubbles? In other words lower the bubble rate. Or you can turn off the CO2 altogether and increase the feed rate till you get to a ph you like then adjust the feed rate down and decrease the bubble rate to maintain


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Thanks but if I reduce the BPM then KH may reduce at which to my astonishment its at 7.33 in the reactor and 6.77 in the tank based on Hanna alk reading .

Now I need to increase the alk and also the ph in the reactor , please help.

[Bpb]

If your reactor ph is that low, and you're still suffering from low display tank alk, everything needs to be turned up. You need to turn up your effluent by 10 ml/min (I would do more actually), and increase your bubble count. Effectively you will be raising the reactor ph (to whatever your goal is) and supplementing MORE in the process. Those geo starting setting recommendations are just an arbitrary starting point that will likely not work for most tanks, but also not crash most tanks over night. I use the same reactor and same pump on my 90 gallon and have it running at 1 bubble per 4 seconds, and 49 rpm on the masterflex which comes out to about 88 ml/min, with a reactor ph of 7.2 and display alk at 7.8 dKH


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[Haksar]

If your reactor ph is that low, and you're still suffering from low display tank alk, everything needs to be turned up. You need to turn up your effluent by 10 ml/min (I would do more actually), and increase your bubble count. Effectively you will be raising the reactor ph (to whatever your goal is) and supplementing MORE in the process. Those geo starting setting recommendations are just an arbitrary starting point that will likely not work for most tanks, but also not crash most tanks over night. I use the same reactor and same pump on my 90 gallon and have it running at 1 bubble per 4 seconds, and 49 rpm on the masterflex which comes out to about 88 ml/min, with a reactor ph of 7.2 and display alk at 7.8 dKH


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Thanks what setting is your PSI

[Bpb]

12 psi. At really low psi levels it is hard to keep a stable bubble count/size


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[Haksar]

Thanks , ok I increased based on your setting but kept the psi at 5 which gives accurate bubble count/size and also to avoid sudden shake . Let's see how it goes. Ph of the reactor is 6.1 and still not gone up.

[vhuang168]

12 psi. At really low psi levels it is hard to keep a stable bubble count/size


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Depends on your regulator setup. I'm using an industrial/research grade dual stage stainless regulator. 6 psi with a 10bpm stable count.


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[Krazie4Acans]

Thanks , ok I increased based on your setting but kept the psi at 5 which gives accurate bubble count/size and also to avoid sudden shake . Let's see how it goes. Ph of the reactor is 6.1 and still not gone up.

Did you increase drip rate or bubble count or both? If you are trying to increase tank alk and reduce reactor pH then just increase the drip rate and don't touch anything else. Krazie :jester:

[Bpb]

I've got a couple dual stage regulators as well. I seem to get a lot better control over the needle valves at a higher psi. On my planted tank I run it at 30 psi and the needle valve is a lot easier to adjust than the one on my calcium reactor which is at a much lower ph.


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[hkgar]

You should not worry about flow. Set it and forget it for the most part.

If you adjust flow here is what happens. If you increase the fowl the water spends less time in the reactor so the reactor ph goes up and the effluent ALK goes down as does the tank Alk. If you decrease the flow rate just the opposite.

To increase tank ALK increase either the bubble rate or the CO2 PSI, or both. As the ph of the reactor goes down the ALK of the effluent will go up and so will the tanks. You just cannot get there by adjusting flow rate. You might think you are adding more ALK but each time you increase the flow the ALK of the effluent goes down.

[Bpb]

Correct me if I'm wrong though but at some point if your effluent is too slow, and you keep increasing co2 beyond the reactors ability to dissolve it you will stall out the circulation pump?


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[Krazie4Acans]

You also have to be careful of not getting your reactor pH too low or the media turns to mush and plugs the reactor. There is more than one way to skin this cat. The important part is to only adjust one part and then give it time to stabilize and measure the change before adjusting anything else.

[Haksar]

Did you increase drip rate or bubble count or both? If you are trying to increase tank alk and reduce reactor pH then just increase the drip rate and don't touch anything else. Krazie :jester:

Yes increased to 80ml/min and 4 seconds per bubble and psi at 5.Now ph in the reactor is 6.4 which is positive. I have not checked the alk thought will check after a few hours to stabilise

[Haksar]

You should not worry about flow. Set it and forget it for the most part.

If you adjust flow here is what happens. If you increase the fowl the water spends less time in the reactor so the reactor ph goes up and the effluent ALK goes down as does the tank Alk. If you decrease the flow rate just the opposite.

To increase tank ALK increase either the bubble rate or the CO2 PSI, or both. As the ph of the reactor goes down the ALK of the effluent will go up and so will the tanks. You just cannot get there by adjusting flow rate. You might think you are adding more ALK but each time you increase the flow the ALK of the effluent goes down.

If I don't increase the flow ph in the reactor hovers around 6.1. So the only way to counter it I feel is increase the flow . In my earlier setting of 35ml/ min and 3 psi and 3 bubble per second kh and ph was low.

[Haksar]

Just checked reactor KH is at 7.50 slowly increasing at settings of 80ml/min, 4 seconds per bubble and 5 PSI. Reactor pH is now hovering at 6.40 and 6.50 which is a good sign .
With this setting I have managed to increase ph but let's KH will increase further or not.

[hkgar]

You also have to be careful of not getting your reactor pH too low or the media turns to mush and plugs the reactor. There is more than one way to skin this cat. The important part is to only adjust one part and then give it time to stabilize and measure the change before adjusting anything else.

Of course you can drive the reactor ph to low. That is why my Apex will shut down the regulator if ph is less than 6.3. I keep the flow rate at 30ml/min and adjust PSI and BPM to increase or decrease tank dKH.

My logic says that the longer the water stays in the reactor (slower flow rate) the more Alk it can absorb (might not be the right scientific word, but I think you know what I mean) so the more effective is the reactor. If your rate is 60ml/min than the water has only 1/2 the time in the reactor than at 30 ml/min

[Haksar]

[QUOTE=hkgar;24653121]Of course you can drive the reactor ph to low. That is why my Apex will shut down the regulator if ph is less than 6.3. I keep the flow rate at 30ml/min and adjust PSI and BPM to increase or decrease tank dKH.

My logic says that the longer the water stays in the reactor (slower flow rate) the more Alk it can absorb (might not be the right scientific word, but I think you know what I mean) so the more effective is the reactor. If your rate is 60ml/min than the water has only 1/2 the time in the reactor than at 30 ml/min

Agree but with the low flow set up somehow my reactor ph is not increasing.
Now with the lower psi (5) and 4 seconds per bubble ph is holding up at 6.4 to 6.5. I was expecting to go higher so that I can reduce the flow but it's not happening .

[hkgar]

Just checked reactor KH is at 7.50 slowly increasing at settings of 80ml/min, 4 seconds per bubble and 5 PSI. Reactor pH is now hovering at 6.40 and 6.50 which is a good sign .
With this setting I have managed to increase ph but let's KH will increase further or not.
What is the KH of the reactor effluent?

[Krazie4Acans]

My logic says that the longer the water stays in the reactor (slower flow rate) the more Alk it can absorb (might not be the right scientific word, but I think you know what I mean) so the more effective is the reactor. If your rate is 60ml/min than the water has only 1/2 the time in the reactor than at 30 ml/min

That might be true if the water that you were putting into the reactor was the water that came straight back out. Obviously the water going in mixes with the saturated water already in the reactor to bring all water in the reactor to the same Alk and Cal saturation level. The pump on the reactor mixes the water inside the reactor at hundreds of GPH so clearly the small amount of water we are running through the reactor gets mixed very quickly into the rest of the water. Just like when we do water changes, the small amount of water going in has very little effect on the total water parameters inside the reactor until the flow rate gets quite high.

The amount of Alk and Cal in the water is controlled by the pH (how acidic the water in the reactor is to dissolve the media). If the pH is maintained in the reactor then the same amount of Alk and Cal is available in the water at just about any flow rate (within reason). Thus maintaining pH and increasing flow will increase tank parameters more effectively.

At least that's the way I think of it. We are also talking about this in the masterflex thread so we have quite accurate control over flow rates and consistency of that flow. Having a stable pH but a flow rate that was constantly changing (like when using needle valves) is the whole reason this topic exists. Constant pH and constant flow give a constant result to the tank. Krazie :jester:

[Bpb]

Correct. When people say things like a faster effluent rate will supplement more....they need to specify ONLY under identical ph conditions. If you don't adjust the gas and ONLY adjust the effluent, it is less concentrated, less dwell time, less dissolution, less supplementation, higher ph. Those are the results. As mentioned, which I know you understand...if one wants to BOTH increase the reactor ph, AND concentration of effluent, or the amount you're supplementing, you have to increase both effluent and bubble count. The increased effluent should be weighted slightly more than the increased bubble count. That way you can have both a net increase in supplementation, with a higher ph at the same time. Only adjusting the bubble count but not the effluent in your case will just turn the media to dust and drive the ph even lower, while supplementing more until your reactor stalled out entirely. Only increasing the effluent without touching the regulator, will result in higher reactor ph, but weaker effluent. Reducing only effluent without touching gas will reduce reactor ph, and strengthen the effluent.


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[hkgar]

Let's just say that my tank dKh is 8.0, my flow is 30ml/min, reactor ph 6.4 and and my tank dKh starts to drop dainly, because of growth. I thin at that point you would have to increase flow ( I would up it to 40 and reset ph to where I could get consistent tank dKh).

Am I right to assume that if I increase flow rate to 40 and maintained the same ph, the tank alk would start increasing, so to maintain tank stability I would have to increase ph when increasing flow?

I guess the question is when you are running the reactor at the lowest safe point before turning media into mush, what would you do to get more ALK into the tank?

[Bpb]

Just as you said. Increase both effluent and gas to maintain ph. If you only increase effluent, the ph will rise as well


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[hkgar]

But will the effluent dKh stay the same, go up or go down?

[Bpb]

If the ph of the reactor is the same the effluent should stay the same. Just more of it


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[Haksar]

My effluent DKH hasn't increased at all still hovering at 7.50 and ph at 6.40 and 6.50.
Shall I increase the pressure to BPM to 2 seconds per bubble and psi to 6 to increase the kh.
Of course by doing that I know ph will reduce so I will have to increase the flow to 90ml/min.

[hkgar]

Actually I would decrease the flow and maintain the PH at about 6.5. That will increase the dKh of the effluent. At about 6.3 you start to turn the media to mush and the reactor will not properly function.

[Haksar]

So what flow should I maintain , BPM and PSI.
KH has gone up to 14 when I revised the setting to 6 psi / 30ml/min and 10 seconds per bubble but ph has nosedived to less than 6 in the reactor and sitting at 5.7. Now I will increase the flow or reduce the psi but if I reduce the Psi to 3 I don't see any co2 coming out of the reactor. Confused .

[Vinny Kreyling]

Haskar - this summary helped me a lot when setting mine up --

http://reef.diesyst.com/

[Haksar]

Thanks , I have read it but I want to set it up based on continuous flow as I am using master flex pump.

[hkgar]

I would set the flow to 50ml/min and adjust the bubbles and or psi to get a ph of about 6.6. Check your tank ALK and that of the effluent, leave alone for 48 hours and then recheck the numbers and fill in this chart.

http://reef.diesyst.com/reactor/reactor.html (right side of the page).

You really need to get a handle on how much dKh your tank is using and adjust to get stability.

[Haksar]

Tank kh is 6.7 and reactor kh is 14. Reactor ph is 5.8.

[swk]

I agree if the effluent flow is changed somewhat dramatically that yes, alk will be lower overall, but with the accuracy and small increments that they can be adjusted, bumping the reactor flow a ml or 2 per minute will increase available alk in the tank in my experience.

[Bpb]

I don't concern myself with reactor kh. I know some people do but that seems kind of arbitrary. I base my adjustments solely on tank consumption


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[hkgar]

The only reason to know the reactor KH is do determine the KH usage of the tank. Do determine usage you need to know how much you are adding.

[hkgar]

Tank kh is 6.7 and reactor kh is 14. Reactor ph is 5.8.

Reactor PH of 5.8 will turn your reactor media to mush, if it hasn't already. Once that happens it will start clogging and all media will need to be removed and replaced.

[Bpb]

I guess I just don't get that mathematical with it. Really only monitor the ph to ensure it doesn't get too low, otherwise I just measure the display tank alkalinity every couple few days and adjust my effluent as needed it pretty much stays between 7.8-8.0 all the time. And if it starts deviating out of the test margin of error of 0.2 I'll increase or decrease effluent as needed. Has worked in my case.


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[Vinny Kreyling]

CA reactors are ALL continuous flow.
Based on the link I posted mine runs just right.

[SkyReef]

Just bought a used Cole Parmer Masterflex L/S Digital Pump 7523-60 with 77200-62 Easy-Load II Head. I purchased this as a feed pump to a calcium reactor. This pump has two heads, leading me to ask this question: can I use one head to feed a calcium reactor, and another to fee an auto-top off? If so, how would I configure the second feed to an auto-top-off. Historically, the peristalic pumps I have used to feed auto-top-off water was positioned in the bottom of a container of RO water. It's hard to visualize how an external pump, positioned outside that container of RO water would be able to feed water from the RO-water container to the sump. Advice, please. Thank you.

[swk]

You can't run one head while one is off. Not doable.

[SkyReef]

You can't run one head while one is off. Not doable.

Thanks, SWK. I have a lot to learn about the Masterflex pump. Are you saying, then, that both heads have to be used for continuous duty? If so, then that would rule out using it for intermittent top-offs. I guess I would just have to use both heads to drive the calcium reactor, or some other constant-supply equipment? Any suggestions for a second, constant-supply equipment? I am not sure I'd have such needs.

[swk]

A pic of what you're talking about would be helpful. I've never seen a double pump head that couldn't be turned into a single.

If you had a separate pump you could certainly use it for a top off.

[SkyReef]

A pic of what you're talking about would be helpful. I've never seen a double pump head that couldn't be turned into a single.

If you had a separate pump you could certainly use it for a top off.

It just seems from the picture that one tube runs left and another tube runs right, from the sides of the Easy-Load-II apparatus. But I might have that wrong. I guess I'll just wait until my Masterflex gets delivered and take a look at it in person, then.

Thanks.

[slief]

You can't run one head while one is off. Not doable.

Yes you can. The dual head Masterflex units just use two heads stacked one on top of the other. The only thing that is needed are the shorter screws.

This just one such example but all the Masterflex pumps with "Easyl Load" heads are exactly the same when it comes to stacked heads. They are two separate heads stacked one on top of the other held together with longer screws. The heads turn the same direction. They are keyed to fit into one another. In fact, they aren't even special heads. Easy Load heads are designed to be used in single, double and even tripple sets. I think they can be stacked up to founds heads at a time using any standard Easy Load or Easy Load II head. .

http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/image_zpsckkdjdey.jpeg

http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/image_zps4dcz2v9b.jpeg

[Haksar]

Ok guys after all the back and forth tuning of the pump , reactor et all I found that there is something wrong cos of the setting you have advised me and why I cannot achieve it . So i decided to recheck the ph of my reactor ( I had calibrated my ph reactor probe a few days back) and to my surprise the reading was way off about 0.08 lower which was the reason for low ph reading. Any ways now I have reset all back and set it to 2 second per bubble , 5psi and 30ml/min. With this setting ph in the reactor is 7.3 day time and 6.8 night time . Kh in the reactor is 16 and tank is 7.2.

Let's hope these numbers hold up and I don't have to tinker anymore . A few of my SPS browned out cos of the kh issues. Thanks for all your help.

BTW I am using CP 7523-40 pump, I am able to adjust the flow in 10ml/min increments and not in lower flow like 5ml/min. Any ideas.

[BillFW]

I'm using the Masterflex 6402-17 Norprene tubing in my CP pump. I'm trying to formulate a reasonable maintenance interval for tubing replacement. I've found data indicating a nominal lifetime of 1000 hrs. @600 rpm, but of course I'm not running near that. Does anyone have experience that would contradict my assumption that wear is pretty much linear (i.e. 10000 hrs. @60 rpm). That, for instance would make yearly a reasonable maintenance period @60 rpm.

[swk]

Yes you can. The dual head Masterflex units just use two heads stacked one on top of the other. The only thing that is needed are the shorter screws.

This just one such example but all the Masterflex pumps with "Easyl Load" heads are exactly the same when it comes to stacked heads. They are two separate heads stacked one on top of the other held together with longer screws. The heads turn the same direction. They are keyed to fit into one another. In fact, they aren't even special heads. Easy Load heads are designed to be used in single, double and even tripple sets. I think they can be stacked up to founds heads at a time using any standard Easy Load or Easy Load II head. .

http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/image_zpsckkdjdey.jpeg

http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/image_zps4dcz2v9b.jpeg



I think you misunderstood me. If using both heads, one cannot run while another does not is all I was saying. They are modular and can go up to 4 I believe

[sfdan]

I'm using the Masterflex 6402-17 Norprene tubing in my CP pump. I'm trying to formulate a reasonable maintenance interval for tubing replacement. I've found data indicating a nominal lifetime of 1000 hrs. @600 rpm, but of course I'm not running near that. Does anyone have experience that would contradict my assumption that wear is pretty much linear (i.e. 10000 hrs. @60 rpm). That, for instance would make yearly a reasonable maintenance period @60 rpm.

I'm running at about ~6 rpm and I replace mine every quarter, using the PharMed tubing. Though it does seem the tubing has a lot more life left in it, replacing it takes 2 minutes and costs a few bucks so I'm going with safety margin. Though if people are running it for significantly longer that would be interesting to hear.

Though it seems the wear from the rollers would be linear, if saltwater in contact with the tubing shortens the lifespan that would be the same at 6rpm or 600rpm.

[rovster]

Is there anything that can be done about quieting a pump. Just got one and has a loud electrical hum, kind of like a messed up fan motor. It works fine but it considerably louder than my MP40s. There is no grinding noises just a low frequency hum. Pump is in great shape inside and out but have not opened motor yet. Cole palmer does not support this model any more so they were no help.

[vhuang168]

What is the model? Some are brushless and are super quiet. Some are brushed and depending on the condition of the brushes, can get pretty loud.


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[rovster]

What is the model? Some are brushless and are super quiet. Some are brushed and depending on the condition of the brushes, can get pretty loud.


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7524-40. I'm assuming this is a brushed model. That said, the Cole Palmer rep heard it over the phone and said it was typically an electrical issue? Like I said is a low frequency hum, not a grinding or squeaky noise at all. I've read some people clean the brushes or replace them, but CP says they no longer support this model. It looks literally brand new, even the insides are pristine. Is there anything that could be lubricated or greased? I did expect some level of noise, but this is a bit more than I had hoped for. I'm waiting to set it up until I figure this noise thing out. I know I've read of some on this thread going in there and improving it. I don't expect it to be dead silent, but this is just a little too much since tank in in a living area, and no basements in FL, LOL! Thanks a lot!

[vhuang168]

I honestly think that is how it's going to sound like. There is a YouTube video comparing a brushed version vs a brushless. Maybe you can look it up and see if that's how yours' sounds like.


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[rovster]

Going to upload a video soon. We'll see. Thanks for your help.

[Bpb]

Rovster. I have the exact same model and my experience is the same. Not so much a squeaking (which would indicate brush wear), or a grinding, rattling, or clicking. It's nothing mechanical in nature. Just a loud 60hz typical AC electronic hum. Same pitch and sound of an old street lamp, a refrigerator, old loud aquarium air pump, dryer, old noisy mag drive pump, ect. Just that electrical hum, but it's VERY loud. Louder than any single noise source in the entire house. It's only not noticeable when the ATI fans are running, tv is on, box fan running, dishwasher going, all at once. Then it's not noticeable. But it's such a resonant hum I can hear it from any room in the house, with doors shut. I have mine wrapped in towels inside an equipment cabinet, and found the hum is slightly lessened if I elevate one side slightly. Seems to throw off the frequency a little and it's not as loud. Wish I were of more help. I've debated running longer water lines through the wall and putting it inside a closet in another room adjacent to the tank


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[Bpb]

On YouTube video comparisons I hear that same hum coming from the brushless models. I don't think the hum is a result of brushes


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[Tinkanator2000]

Going to upload a video soon. We'll see. Thanks for your help.


Replace the brushes:

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Brushes_for_Masterflex_Peristaltic_Pump_Drives/EW-07520-04

Manual located here:

http://www.coleparmer.com/Assets/manual_pdfs/a-1299-0725.pdf

[rovster]

Here you go! Any opinions after hearing this?

http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff370/rovster/th_3B36E43E-CB68-4490-82BD-BBE838728AED_zpsuqdgzqnl.mp4 (http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff370/rovster/3B36E43E-CB68-4490-82BD-BBE838728AED_zpsuqdgzqnl.mp4)

After listening myself, its much more audible in person but you can hear the low pitched hum in the background. Aplify that a few times and that's what it sounds like in real life, LOL! If this is "normal" then I would be satisfied with that. If there is anything that I can do and or should do, then I will. Thanks guys for all your help!

[Bpb]

Yep. Same sound as mine


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[Haksar]

Typical brush model noise , have the same on my 7523-40 too. Earlier had some squeaking noise and it cleared up after spraying wd 40.

[rovster]

OK, its REALLY loud, video doesn't do the low frequency justice. Where would you spray the WD40? Should I pull the motor apart? Don't want to make things worse. I thought like a bearing grease would be better than WD40. Thanks.

[vhuang168]

On YouTube video comparisons I hear that same hum coming from the brushless models. I don't think the hum is a result of brushes


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My brushless model is practically dead silent. The MP10 dry sides are louder.

A lot of the noise is also dependent on rpms. I'm running at the lowest speed. If I prime it at the fastest then yes, there is noise.

But that is why the recommendation is for the 600rpm model instead of the 100rpm.

At 10rpm, I'm using 1/60th of the speed vs 1/10.


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[Bpb]

The noise ours makes is the same whether you run at 6 or 600 rpm. Yes at higher rpm it jntroduces more noise, but that electrical him is there regardless once you hit start, and increasing or decreasing the speed doesn't have any effect on it


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[rovster]

The noise ours makes is the same whether you run at 6 or 600 rpm. Yes at higher rpm it jntroduces more noise, but that electrical him is there regardless once you hit start, and increasing or decreasing the speed doesn't have any effect on it


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This is my observation as well. At higher rpm the moving parts make ore noise but the hum is always there. If greasing or replacing brushed stands a good chance on silencing it I'd do that. If this is normal oh well, should have gone brushless lol

[slief]

This is my observation as well. At higher rpm the moving parts make ore noise but the hum is always there. If greasing or replacing brushed stands a good chance on silencing it I'd do that. If this is normal oh well, should have gone brushless lol

You do not grease the brushes and they do not contribute to the hum. The only noise I have heard as a result of the brushes are the occasional squeak. The hum is 100% normal with the brushed models. If it's really bothersome, take some towels and wrap it around which will mute most of the sound.

[rovster]

Thanks slief at least I feel better now that I don't have a faulty pump!

[souk]

I just received my 77201-60 head but it didn't come with any screws to mount it to the masterflex. I'm pretty sure its been ask already and I haven't seen it yet going page by page. if any body knows the size please help out.

thanks!

[dendrite]

Not sure about sizing, but hope that someone on here has an extra set. Otherwise Cole Palmer will be happy to sell you a set for thirty odd dollars for two

[Bpb]

Has anyone gone about replacing brushes on their unit? I don't think I need to currently, but in the event I do, is it a pretty easy process? As in someone with very little experience in working with electric motors can do without a lot of trouble or special tools?


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[slief]

Has anyone gone about replacing brushes on their unit? I don't think I need to currently, but in the event I do, is it a pretty easy process? As in someone with very little experience in working with electric motors can do without a lot of trouble or special tools?


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Replacing brushes is very easy. Disconnect the power. Remove the cover and on the back half of the pump are two black plastic screw in caps. Remove the caps. The brushes will pop part way out. Pull them out, slide the new ones in. Screw caps back in and put the cover back on.

[Madehtsobi]

i just noticed today on my 7520-50 unit that theres like "zzzzzzzz" sound coming from it...where would i spray some wd-40 or other type of lubricant in it?

[souk]

My unit finally arrived! I can't wait to set it up. Just gotta find some hardware to mount the head. Don't really wanna drop 30 bucks on 2 screws. Hopefully Ace will have something I can use.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160804/58ebfa033f9c8c3c917e5e9d83463d23.jpg

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[swk]

I believe any 8/32 threaded rod is what you're looking for.

[souk]

I believe any 8/32 threaded rod is what you're looking for.
Thank you! From measuring the head to the unit I think it's 3.25" that I need. Off to Ace.

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[SkyReef]

My used Masterflex L/S 7523-60, with an easy-load II pump head arrived today. I bought it on eBay for $595.00. Upon turning the device on, the LED display reads "ER 1," which I take to mean Error Code 1. In another post on this thread, another purchaser also had this same error code, and it was suggested there that such an error was an internal problem. I have contacted the seller. However, in the meantime, does anyone know what "ER 1" means and can I fix this problem, or do I need to return it to the seller?

[BillFW]

My used Masterflex L/S 7523-60, with an easy-load II pump head arrived today. I bought it on eBay for $595.00. Upon turning the device on, the LED display reads "ER 1," which I take to mean Error Code 1. In another post on this thread, another purchaser also had this same error code, and it was suggested there that such an error was an internal problem. I have contacted the seller. However, in the meantime, does anyone know what "ER 1" means and can I fix this problem, or do I need to return it to the seller?
The manual (available on line BTW) doesn't explicitly list error #1 but has an "All other errors" category which states "internal error". Clear by turning off and back on. It that doesn't work, return unit for repair.

[SkyReef]

The manual (available on line BTW) doesn't explicitly list error #1 but has an "All other errors" category which states "internal error". Clear by turning off and back on. It that doesn't work, return unit for repair.

Thank you BillFW. I won't be returning it for repair; I will be returning it for a refund.

[Dapg8gt]

If you're talking about the newer style Masterflex Digital in the link below, that is a GREAT brushless pump and is basically the same one I use.
http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Masterflex_L_S_Computer_Compatible_Digital_Drive_600_rpm/EW-07551-00?SearchTerm=7551-00


I have this same model that will not turn on at all.. Looks to be in great condition physically but just no power whatsoever.. Called Cole parmer and they only have a flat rate to fix units
( $600) so I'm hesitant to spend that kinda $ on it.

Have you had to get inside it yet? Know of anyone who does repairs other than Cp? Swapped the fuse and no dice, everything inside looks good visually..

May be time to sell it to someone who can fix it, I bought it from a seller who stated they could not test it as it was missing the fuse as is.. Gambled and lost lol..

[slief]

I have this same model that will not turn on at all.. Looks to be in great condition physically but just no power whatsoever.. Called Cole parmer and they only have a flat rate to fix units
( $600) so I'm hesitant to spend that kinda $ on it.

Have you had to get inside it yet? Know of anyone who does repairs other than Cp? Swapped the fuse and no dice, everything inside looks good visually..

May be time to sell it to someone who can fix it, I bought it from a seller who stated they could not test it as it was missing the fuse as is.. Gambled and lost lol..

You can ship it to me and I can take a look at it. I'd be interested in it depending on what it needs. I run a computer manufacturing business and also do component level repairs so I could probably fix for you or buy it from you. If you are interested, send me a PM and I will get you my address. Once I get it, I will be able to provide and estimate for repair or purchase. It will take me a day to evaluate.

[ostrow]

I am finding various versions of 7520. Do they all work for this?

[zzl630]

My 7523-60 run for about 5 weeks and it shows error 3 today. I searched the manual, it says motor overload. I tried run it without load and power cycle, still does same thing. Any recommendations?

[slief]

My 7523-60 run for about 5 weeks and it shows error 3 today. I searched the manual, it says motor overload. I tried run it without load and power cycle, still does same thing. Any recommendations?

Since it's a motor overload error and an older unit, I'd take apart the gear box, clean all the gears and remove any of the old great and re-lube the gears. That would be the biggest source of load between the motor and the head. The only other thing it could be would be the bearings inside the motor but before digging that deep, I'd start with the gears.

[zzl630]

Since it's a motor overload error and an older unit, I'd take apart the gear box, clean all the gears and remove any of the old great and re-lube the gears. That would be the biggest source of load between the motor and the head. The only other thing it could be would be the bearings inside the motor but before digging that deep, I'd start with the gears.



I think you are right. Just took it apart and it was running without gear and head. Not familiar with grease, is there a special brand or model I shall use? Thank you so much l.

[slief]

I think you are right. Just took it apart and it was running without gear and head. Not familiar with grease, is there a special brand or model I shall use? Thank you so much l.

You should use a thick synthetic gear grease.

[ostrow]

Scott I have read through this thing....how does one determine what models are appropriate? Every model line has multiple last two digit versions. Did I miss a post detailing the meaning of each?

[vhuang168]

The models listed in the 1st page are what you should look for. There are a few more. It listed but you basically want a model that has the same parameters as the ones listed. The model numbers must be exact.

Are you looking for a brushed or brushless model?


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[ostrow]

The models listed in the 1st page are what you should look for. There are a few more. It listed but you basically want a model that has the same parameters as the ones listed. The model numbers must be exact.

Are you looking for a brushed or brushless model?


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I only rarely see 7523 in any version, but see many 752x-xx. I do not need brushless. I do not necessarily need digital.

Is any 6-600rpm model suitable?

[hkgar]

I only rarely see 7523 in any version, but see many 752x-xx. I do not need brushless. I do not necessarily need digital.

Is any 6-600rpm model suitable?

The RPM's are fine but you need to check the Cole Parmer flow chart for the head and tubing you will be using to see what the flow range in terms of ml/min would be. If that meets your needs than the pump is fine. There are many Cole Parmer flow controllable pumps you can choose from, but the correct head needs to work with the tubing you want to use. Most use L-17

[Madehtsobi]

You should use a thick synthetic gear grease.



What brand do u suggest? Thanks!


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[slief]

What brand do u suggest? Thanks!


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My first thought would be Molykote but I would call Cole Parmer and ask them first to see what they say.

[Madehtsobi]

My first thought would be Molykote but I would call Cole Parmer and ask them first to see what they say.



I tried last week but no response...


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[slief]

I tried last week but no response...


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That's weird. I've always gotten somebody on the line when I called there and had questions. Their support has always been pretty good.

[Madehtsobi]

That's weird. I've always gotten somebody on the line when I called there and had questions. Their support has always been pretty good.



Yeh... Guess I'll try again


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[Madehtsobi]

So I emailed again and they said to not use any grease or lubrication and to send it for service...


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[slief]

So I emailed again and they said to not use any grease or lubrication and to send it for service...


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If you pump is the 1-100 RPM pump, this is the gear replacement kit for it. The description says it comes with high temp silicone grease.
http://www.masterflex.com/Product/Service_kits_for_Masterflex_L_S_1_100_rpm_drives/HV-07553-08?SearchTerm=7553-08

Based on that, I would say you should be using a high temp silicone grease such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Medium-Lubricant/dp/B001VY1EL8

Or there is this gear set on eBay which should also work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Parmer-Masterflex-Replacement-Gear-Kit-for-7548-08-and-7553-08-New-/222184683184

[Madehtsobi]

What Bout this grease?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB1096N3QNP208M14Q85

I have this already.


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[slief]

What Bout this grease?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB1096N3QNP208M14Q85

I have this already.


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It might work but that stuff doesn't indicate high temp and I think it's fairly thin. The thinner stuff will run off the gears as a result of heat where as high temp stuff will remain where it's needed.

[Madehtsobi]

It might work but that stuff doesn't indicate high temp and I think it's fairly thin. The thinner stuff will run off the gears as a result of heat where as high temp stuff will remain where it's needed.



Awesome thanks!


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[ostrow]

Got a 7524-40 for $100. Looks well used. But head seems pretty new so if the pump too loud can get brushless without head if need to. Hoping this solves different issue I have with different peristaltic feed pump.

[Airywhitesoul]

AKA: Learn from all of my (many, costly) mistakes

I was inspired by this thread when I ran into multiple failures of BRS 60mL/min peristaltic pumps. My tank kept crashing and the only way forward was to get a more reliable set of pumps. Unfortunately, there just aren’t pump options in our hobby that are both powerful and reliable for peristaltic purposes. The main problems that was causing pump failures was that I was forced to produce RO and new salt water in my garage and pump it to my aquarium room. The BRS pumps couldn’t handle the long runs from this setup. Additional pump failures occurred from ATO abuse due to Texas climate and my desire for automated water exchanges. On top of this, my lifestyle is so busy that by the time I realized a pump had failed, it was always too late and the unbalanced chemistry would cause a tank crash.

I invested in two big upgrades to improve the reliability and maintenance of my system: a Neptune Apex aquarium controller and ColeParmer peristaltic pumps. Those 4 transducers and wattage monitors on the Apex really give you instantaneous awareness of problems via telephonic means. I also changed all of my 60mL/min BRS peristaltic pumps to Masterflex 7543-30 peristaltic pumps. The process for doing this wasn’t very simple (despite this truly excellent reef central thread), and I’d like to show others exactly how to do this so they don’t waste time, money, and you understand what exactly you are getting yourself into. You should think of these pumps in terms of three components: Pump, Head, and Tubing/fittings.

Noise should be a primary decision point for a buyer of these pumps. it was not a concern for me (and the pumps I eventually chose are a bit noisy so beware if they are attached to a wall with someone sleeping next to it). I actually prefer the standard heads versus the easy loads since they hold the tubing tighter and you don’t have to fiddle with them as much as with the Easy Loads. It does take a bit of math to plan exactly how much fluid you want to exchange and back calculate the tubing diameter (mL/rotation) and RPMs of the pump when you are going with a fixed RPM. Tubing is unfortunately expensive, and there’s really no way around this. The tubing is abused and it needs to be high quality if it is going to handle the forces placed upon it by the pump. You don’t need much of it (12” or so per pump), so that’s a positive.

Structurally, you’ll see I’ve mostly been able to keep the electricity above the liquids. That was intentional since you never know where your next leak will come from. I pump the new salt and RO water from the garage and store them in Davy Jones lockers from AvastMarine, next to my CO2 bottles (always have a backup) that are locked in place. The water level pressure transducer that comes from Avast Marine has never failed me in 10+ years of use. I’m a fan. I use a dual head Masterflex 7543-30 w/ L/S 17 tubing for daily water exchange to accomplish 3-4 gallons of water exchange automatically. The cool thing about the Masterflex tubing is that it is very exacting in diameter, so it’s probably the best way to do an even water exchange without risking over or underfillling the tank. You also need to think about the RO tubing strategy, not just L/S tubing for the pump heads. I wanted the long run from my garage to my small holding tanks for RO and fresh salt water to use large bore L/S 35 Norprene tubing and 3/8” RO tubing to reduce resistance and strain on the pumps. That Norprene is tough and meant for abuse. The rest I used L/S 17 w/ 1/4” RO tubing as suggested on the first page of this thread.

The pump setups are as follows:

Pumps:
Pump: ColeParmer 7543-30
Noise: Loud (maybe 60-70dB)
Cost: $45-$70 on eBay
Size: slightly larger than BRS (see picture). VERY convenient.
Strength: Above requirements for 100’ RO tubing run.
Heads accommodated: 1 or 2 (need appropriate hardware to attach it to pump).
Fluid dynamics: w/ LS17 - 84mL/min ; w/ LS35 - 114mL/min

Pump: ColeParmer 7553-60 (variable speed for Ca reactor)
Noise: Medium (maybe 50dB)
Cost: $41 on eBay
Size: Requires stand. Big and bulky (think toaster)
Strength: Above requirements for 100’ RO tubing run.
Heads accommodated: 1 or 2 (need appropriate hardware to attach it to pump).
Fluid dynamics: wide range due to pump speed variability. Definitely perfect for a calcium reactor.

Pump: BRS 1.1mL/min
Noise: Silent
Cost: ~$80 from BRS
Size: Perfect for mounting in a clean line.
Strength: Adequate for short 1/4” RO tubing run. Low flow likely prevents major pressure problems and permits pump longevity plaguing 60mL/min pump.
Heads accommodated: 1 only. Has built-in tubing and fittings, thus cutting down on secondary pump costs dramatically and simplifies things.
Fluid dynamics: fixed at 1.1mL/min. Perfect for Ca/Mg/Alk/Carbon dosing

Tubing:

Type: PharMed® BPT Biocompatible Tubing (L/S 17) 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD x 1/16" Wall PharMed® Tubing 10’ cut into ~12” lengths.
Purpose: Flexible and tolerant of steel rollers in pump head.
Cost: $38.50 ($3.85/foot)
Endurance: medium
Fluid dynamics: 2.8 mL/min/revolution

Type: Masterflex Norprene tubing (A 60 G), L/S 35, 50 ft.
Purpose: Flexible and tolerant of steel rollers in pump head.
Cost: $125.00 ($2.50/foot)
Endurance: Extreme
Fluid dynamics: 3.8-4.3mL/min/revolution (depending on head type)

Technical data on Masterflex tubing:
Tolerance to cuastics/UV/porosity:http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/700
Sizing chart for L/S tubing: http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/772
Life chart for tubing: http://partners.coleparmer.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=Tubing_LSLife.htm

Type: LLDPE (Low Density Polyethylene tubing) 1/4” or 3/8”
Purpose: RO tubing for low cost runs away from Masterflex tubing
Cost: Inexpensive
Endurance: Years maintenance free

Heads:
L/S35 Head: Standard Head 7035-21
Cost: $50 on eBay
L/S17 Head: Standard Head 7017-21
Cost: $50-$75 on eBay
L/S17 Head: EasyLoad 7518-60
Cost: $75-$150 on eBay
Additional Info: Hardware for double stacked heads: http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/SS_mounting_hardware_mounts_two_2_Masterflex_L_S_Easy_Load_pump_heads/EW-07013-05

Purpose: main tank ATO
Pump: 7543-30
Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing from RO water container feeding into a Avast Marine Kalk stirrer. Requires a water level pressure transducer controller to turn ATO on/off.

Purpose: RO or Salt New water supply - sub-station ATOs
Pump: 7543-30
Set Up: L/S 35 tubing w/ 3/8” RO tubing 100’ run from large garage based 60 gallon drums to tank filling Avast Marine Davy Jones lockers x 2 w/ float valve controller to turn ATO pumps on/off.

Purpose: Daily water exchange
Pump: 7543-30
Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing, two stacked L/S 17 standard heads on one pump. Effluent waste water drawn off near skimmer (due to lack of algae or animals) and directly fed into sink waste, new salt feeds from a Davy Jones locker into same area.

Purpose: Calcium Reactor Feed pump
Pump: 7553-60 variable speed
Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing fed through an Easy Load head (to allow a variety of tubing options if flow ends up too high with L/S 17 at lowest flow rate). Calcium reactor set up is complicated. I’d recommend http://reef.diesyst.com/crarticle/crarticle.htm as a good read for the complexity involved in tuning them.

Lessons learned: 1) Almost any of the ColeParmer pumps will work for the peristaltic aquarium applications, even the small ones, like I got. They are WAY stronger than anything on the aquarium trade. 2) Noise - putting pumps and equipment in a closet or remote location allows a lot more diversity in inexpensive options. 3) Model numbers - overwhelming from ColePalmer standpoint. However, it’s the head that you are worried about - all of the pumps that I saw will handle the heads, so model number is somewhat irrelevant. The main thing you should be worried about is to make sure the RPMs and tubing size make for delivery in the 50-150mL/min for ATO/water exchange purposes OR 1-2mL/min for Two part and carbon dosing. Do the calculations with the L/S 17 (2.8mL/min/revolution) and L/S 35 (3.8-4.3mL/min/revolution) tubing and multiply by the revolutions per minute before you buy a pump and make sure the output is in range for your application. 4) 1/4” RO tubing for short runs, 3/8” RO tubing for long runs. 5) Cost - tubing costs a lot! You must consider all 3 aspects of these commercial grade pumps to get a price point figured out. I’d probably start with making sure you get the L/S 17 head and then go from there. Better yet, get a L/S 17 on the pump you want. 6) Size - if you get a bunch of big peristaltic pumps that will always run at the same RPMs (like an ATO), you are probably wasting money and space. Fixed RPM pumps are fine for this purpose and can be rather small.

Fittings are another problem for another write up. L/S 17 uses 1/4” barbs and we conveniently always connect it to 1/4” RO tubing with a John Guest fitting. L/S 35 uses a 3/8” barb and we conveniently always connect it to 3/8” RO tubing with a John Guest fitting.

Best of luck! I hope this helps!
:fun4:

[awais98]

AKA: Learn from all of my (many, costly) mistakes



I was inspired by this thread when I ran into multiple failures of BRS 60mL/min peristaltic pumps. My tank kept crashing and the only way forward was to get a more reliable set of pumps. Unfortunately, there just aren’t pump options in our hobby that are both powerful and reliable for peristaltic purposes. The main problems that was causing pump failures was that I was forced to produce RO and new salt water in my garage and pump it to my aquarium room. The BRS pumps couldn’t handle the long runs from this setup. Additional pump failures occurred from ATO abuse due to Texas climate and my desire for automated water exchanges. On top of this, my lifestyle is so busy that by the time I realized a pump had failed, it was always too late and the unbalanced chemistry would cause a tank crash.



I invested in two big upgrades to improve the reliability and maintenance of my system: a Neptune Apex aquarium controller and ColeParmer peristaltic pumps. Those 4 transducers and wattage monitors on the Apex really give you instantaneous awareness of problems via telephonic means. I also changed all of my 60mL/min BRS peristaltic pumps to Masterflex 7543-30 peristaltic pumps. The process for doing this wasn’t very simple (despite this truly excellent reef central thread), and I’d like to show others exactly how to do this so they don’t waste time, money, and you understand what exactly you are getting yourself into. You should think of these pumps in terms of three components: Pump, Head, and Tubing/fittings.



Noise should be a primary decision point for a buyer of these pumps. it was not a concern for me (and the pumps I eventually chose are a bit noisy so beware if they are attached to a wall with someone sleeping next to it). I actually prefer the standard heads versus the easy loads since they hold the tubing tighter and you don’t have to fiddle with them as much as with the Easy Loads. It does take a bit of math to plan exactly how much fluid you want to exchange and back calculate the tubing diameter (mL/rotation) and RPMs of the pump when you are going with a fixed RPM. Tubing is unfortunately expensive, and there’s really no way around this. The tubing is abused and it needs to be high quality if it is going to handle the forces placed upon it by the pump. You don’t need much of it (12” or so per pump), so that’s a positive.



Structurally, you’ll see I’ve mostly been able to keep the electricity above the liquids. That was intentional since you never know where your next leak will come from. I pump the new salt and RO water from the garage and store them in Davy Jones lockers from AvastMarine, next to my CO2 bottles (always have a backup) that are locked in place. The water level pressure transducer that comes from Avast Marine has never failed me in 10+ years of use. I’m a fan. I use a dual head Masterflex 7543-30 w/ L/S 17 tubing for daily water exchange to accomplish 3-4 gallons of water exchange automatically. The cool thing about the Masterflex tubing is that it is very exacting in diameter, so it’s probably the best way to do an even water exchange without risking over or underfillling the tank. You also need to think about the RO tubing strategy, not just L/S tubing for the pump heads. I wanted the long run from my garage to my small holding tanks for RO and fresh salt water to use large bore L/S 35 Norprene tubing and 3/8” RO tubing to reduce resistance and strain on the pumps. That Norprene is tough and meant for abuse. The rest I used L/S 17 w/ 1/4” RO tubing as suggested on the first page of this thread.



The pump setups are as follows:



Pumps:

Pump: ColeParmer 7543-30

Noise: Loud (maybe 60-70dB)

Cost: $45-$70 on eBay

Size: slightly larger than BRS (see picture). VERY convenient.

Strength: Above requirements for 100’ RO tubing run.

Heads accommodated: 1 or 2 (need appropriate hardware to attach it to pump).

Fluid dynamics: w/ LS17 - 84mL/min ; w/ LS35 - 114mL/min



Pump: ColeParmer 7553-60 (variable speed for Ca reactor)

Noise: Medium (maybe 50dB)

Cost: $41 on eBay

Size: Requires stand. Big and bulky (think toaster)

Strength: Above requirements for 100’ RO tubing run.

Heads accommodated: 1 or 2 (need appropriate hardware to attach it to pump).

Fluid dynamics: wide range due to pump speed variability. Definitely perfect for a calcium reactor.



Pump: BRS 1.1mL/min

Noise: Silent

Cost: ~$80 from BRS

Size: Perfect for mounting in a clean line.

Strength: Adequate for short 1/4” RO tubing run. Low flow likely prevents major pressure problems and permits pump longevity plaguing 60mL/min pump.

Heads accommodated: 1 only. Has built-in tubing and fittings, thus cutting down on secondary pump costs dramatically and simplifies things.

Fluid dynamics: fixed at 1.1mL/min. Perfect for Ca/Mg/Alk/Carbon dosing



Tubing:



Type: PharMed[emoji768] BPT Biocompatible Tubing (L/S 17) 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD x 1/16" Wall PharMed[emoji768] Tubing 10’ cut into ~12” lengths.

Purpose: Flexible and tolerant of steel rollers in pump head.

Cost: $38.50 ($3.85/foot)

Endurance: medium

Fluid dynamics: 2.8 mL/min/revolution



Type: Masterflex Norprene tubing (A 60 G), L/S 35, 50 ft.

Purpose: Flexible and tolerant of steel rollers in pump head.

Cost: $125.00 ($2.50/foot)

Endurance: Extreme

Fluid dynamics: 3.8-4.3mL/min/revolution (depending on head type)



Technical data on Masterflex tubing:

Tolerance to cuastics/UV/porosity:http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/700

Sizing chart for L/S tubing: http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/772

Life chart for tubing: http://partners.coleparmer.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=Tubing_LSLife.htm



Type: LLDPE (Low Density Polyethylene tubing) 1/4” or 3/8”

Purpose: RO tubing for low cost runs away from Masterflex tubing

Cost: Inexpensive

Endurance: Years maintenance free



Heads:

L/S35 Head: Standard Head 7035-21

Cost: $50 on eBay

L/S17 Head: Standard Head 7017-21

Cost: $50-$75 on eBay

L/S17 Head: EasyLoad 7518-60

Cost: $75-$150 on eBay

Additional Info: Hardware for double stacked heads: http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/SS_mounting_hardware_mounts_two_2_Masterflex_L_S_Easy_Load_pump_heads/EW-07013-05



Purpose: main tank ATO

Pump: 7543-30

Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing from RO water container feeding into a Avast Marine Kalk stirrer. Requires a water level pressure transducer controller to turn ATO on/off.



Purpose: RO or Salt New water supply - sub-station ATOs

Pump: 7543-30

Set Up: L/S 35 tubing w/ 3/8” RO tubing 100’ run from large garage based 60 gallon drums to tank filling Avast Marine Davy Jones lockers x 2 w/ float valve controller to turn ATO pumps on/off.



Purpose: Daily water exchange

Pump: 7543-30

Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing, two stacked L/S 17 standard heads on one pump. Effluent waste water drawn off near skimmer (due to lack of algae or animals) and directly fed into sink waste, new salt feeds from a Davy Jones locker into same area.



Purpose: Calcium Reactor Feed pump

Pump: 7553-60 variable speed

Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing fed through an Easy Load head (to allow a variety of tubing options if flow ends up too high with L/S 17 at lowest flow rate). Calcium reactor set up is complicated. I’d recommend http://reef.diesyst.com/crarticle/crarticle.htm as a good read for the complexity involved in tuning them.



Lessons learned: 1) Almost any of the ColeParmer pumps will work for the peristaltic aquarium applications, even the small ones, like I got. They are WAY stronger than anything on the aquarium trade. 2) Noise - putting pumps and equipment in a closet or remote location allows a lot more diversity in inexpensive options. 3) Model numbers - overwhelming from ColePalmer standpoint. However, it’s the head that you are worried about - all of the pumps that I saw will handle the heads, so model number is somewhat irrelevant. The main thing you should be worried about is to make sure the RPMs and tubing size make for delivery in the 50-150mL/min for ATO/water exchange purposes OR 1-2mL/min for Two part and carbon dosing. Do the calculations with the L/S 17 (2.8mL/min/revolution) and L/S 35 (3.8-4.3mL/min/revolution) tubing and multiply by the revolutions per minute before you buy a pump and make sure the output is in range for your application. 4) 1/4” RO tubing for short runs, 3/8” RO tubing for long runs. 5) Cost - tubing costs a lot! You must consider all 3 aspects of these commercial grade pumps to get a price point figured out. I’d probably start with making sure you get the L/S 17 head and then go from there. Better yet, get a L/S 17 on the pump you want. 6) Size - if you get a bunch of big peristaltic pumps that will always run at the same RPMs (like an ATO), you are probably wasting money and space. Fixed RPM pumps are fine for this purpose and can be rather small.



Fittings are another problem for another write up. L/S 17 uses 1/4” barbs and we conveniently always connect it to 1/4” RO tubing with a John Guest fitting. L/S 35 uses a 3/8” barb and we conveniently always connect it to 3/8” RO tubing with a John Guest fitting.



Best of luck! I hope this helps!

:fun4:



Excellent summarized write up.
Thank you!!



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[soulpatch]

New to this all but selling dosing gear to set up calcium reactor. I will either build my own regulator or buy the carbon doser but it makes sense to use a masterflex to handle the dosing to the tank so that it is constant and exact.

So while looking through items it seems there is an abundance of economy drives and the digital 7550-60 drives online for decent prices. I think I woudl lean towards the digital since I can dial it in as opposed to turning a knob but open to thoughts either way or for someone to say "NO Dont get those"

Both come with a variety of heads so I can read back through for which heads to get but curious if these would be decent options and secondly if either woudl be fairly quiet. I am already having issues with sound running a DOS unit for my Auto Water Change which might need to be moved to another room because of this.

[vhuang168]

New to this all but selling dosing gear to set up calcium reactor. I will either build my own regulator or buy the carbon doser but it makes sense to use a masterflex to handle the dosing to the tank so that it is constant and exact.

So while looking through items it seems there is an abundance of economy drives and the digital 7550-60 drives online for decent prices. I think I woudl lean towards the digital since I can dial it in as opposed to turning a knob but open to thoughts either way or for someone to say "NO Dont get those"

Both come with a variety of heads so I can read back through for which heads to get but curious if these would be decent options and secondly if either woudl be fairly quiet. I am already having issues with sound running a DOS unit for my Auto Water Change which might need to be moved to another room because of this.



If noise is going to be an issue, make sure to pickup a brushless model.


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[ostrow]

Set up my 7524-40, not brushless.

I wanted to post on noise. Understanding that perceptions vary from person to person, and pumps vary as well, I can say this for sure: if you have a fish room, if you run Iwaki or similar pumps, if you have a downdraft or a beckett skimmer, if you have run ReefFiller or similar diaphragm pumps, you will find this to be extremely quiet at anything less than 150ml/min.

One question I have: the l/s17 tubing has a flow range from 17 ml/min minimum to over 2000 ml/min maximum. Why are we using this tubing? While the pump is virtually silent, isn't that tubing overkill? The pump is at about 5%. Or, why have the 6-600rpm pumps when up to 100 will clearly suffice? Just not seeing the logic of the higher (for many) expense? I got my pump for $100 but still...

[ClownsRCoo]

Longer pump life for one. Would you rather drive your 5 speed car down the freeway everyday in 3rd or 5th gear? Which do you think will ruin that transmission first?


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[ostrow]

I get why you don't want to run a pump at 90%. But generally running under 10% is not a great idea either. 30-70 is the sweet spot

[ClownsRCoo]

For a peristaltic pump? Why would it not be a good idea to run this type of pump under 10%?


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[ostrow]

My question asks the converse of this: what makes it a good idea to do so, given it is ill-advised for diaphragm and other pumps.

[ClownsRCoo]

Some diaphragm pumps can have difficulty with priming at low speeds and peristaltic's don't. Some types of pump motors are fan or oil cooled so the slower it's running the less effective their cooling becomes. The curve of a peristaltic pump is a linear line so you don't have sever inefficiencies on the low flow side or have to really worry about running the pump down to its shut off. Other pumps have a curve and a best efficiency point along that curve. A peristaltic doesn't.

It's a very different style of pump so what's good/bad for others may not be the same for this style


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[ClownsRCoo]

Also you increase the life of your tubing by running at slower speeds.


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[Airywhitesoul]

The reason that L/S 14 heads are so ubiquitous is that they take IV tubing. That is a very cheap option for variable speed Ca reactor pumps that require titration at low flow.


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[Airywhitesoul]

I just put some IV tubing on one of my easily load heads and the barb or spike for the IV tubing fits perfectly in 1/4" RO tubing. It worked perfectly in the head. This may be a low cost solution for many of the uses that L/S 17 is being used for. The flow rate is probably 1/2 of L/S 17 but that's by my guess only. Didn't measure it.


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[ClownsRCoo]

Sleif, you mentioned before that you packed the uniseal area of you geo reactor with grease to try to make it air tight. What kind of grease did you use for that?


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[slief]

Sleif, you mentioned before that you packed the uniseal area of you geo reactor with grease to try to make it air tight. What kind of grease did you use for that?


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Thick Silicone grease. I think it's the same as this stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Trident-Silicone-Grease-oz-Jar/dp/B00V2G7IH4/

[ClownsRCoo]

Thanks, just picked that up. I can't get my reactor to stop pulling so much air so I'm hoping this solves it.


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[Surf_and_Turf]

Not trying to hijack any threads. I have a masterflex L/S MN-7524-50 with a Model 7518-00 head connected to a GEO CR618 Reactor coupled with a Carbon doser regulator(30ml effluent drip-5 seconds between bubbles). I am having issues with air being pulled into the reactor because of the masterflex pulling water through the reactor instead of pushing through it. Anyone else have any issues with this? I've replaced the factory barbed fitting's with nylon compression fittings. Thank you!

[ClownsRCoo]

That's my issue too. I chose to pull air though because if I use the effluent like to pull water from the reactor it's in the next area to actually suck the air out vs the stock setup when you push water in. I couldn't really get it to purge much air when. I pushed water in. I want to drill and tap the lid and pull from there but am nervous of screwing up the lid.


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[Surf_and_Turf]

WOW! In the midst of writing my last post I just realized my questions were answered two post above mine! Ive got some grease from my bubble king skimmer. THANK YOU

[Surf_and_Turf]

Its pretty simple to drill and tap acrylic. I just drilled and tapped my skimmer lid and put a float switch, and connected it to my apex.

[slief]

Not trying to hijack any threads. I have a masterflex L/S MN-7524-50 with a Model 7518-00 head connected to a GEO CR618 Reactor coupled with a Carbon doser regulator(30ml effluent drip-5 seconds between bubbles). I am having issues with air being pulled into the reactor because of the masterflex pulling water through the reactor instead of pushing through it. Anyone else have any issues with this? I've replaced the factory barbed fitting's with nylon compression fittings. Thank you!

That's my issue too. I chose to pull air though because if I use the effluent like to pull water from the reactor it's in the next area to actually suck the air out vs the stock setup when you push water in. I couldn't really get it to purge much air when. I pushed water in. I want to drill and tap the lid and pull from there but am nervous of screwing up the lid.


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I switched my masterflex over to pushing instead of pulling. I would also suggest removing any teflon tape and using teflon paste on all threaded fittings. I use Oatey Great White with PTFE. Lastly, if the output pressure is too high, you may get excess CO2 in the reactor. I keep mine at 3 PSI. Also note that with a flow rate of 25-30ml/min, the bubble rate should be around 1 bubble every 5 seconds to maintain a reactor pH of around 6.5-6.6.

[ClownsRCoo]

My output pressure is right at your recommended settings, I chose to pull for the reasons I stated above. It seemed like when I pushed I couldn't purge the initial air enough that was in the reactor from when I first set it up. My bubble rate is just about that and keeps my reactor at 6.7.

The air in the reactor just builds and builds until the pump is constantly sucking air in and starting to cavitate.

The effluent line is a barb and has flexible tubing coming from it. It seems to be 1/4 so all I did was connect that line into super speedfit connection which is the #2 item on the recommended parts list in this thread at the start. It holds and doesn't leak water but I'm thinking it's probably not an air tight seal either with it basically being airline tubing and not rigid RO tubing. Can I switch that barb thread on the reactor out with one of those male speedfit fittings also and use RO tubing from the reactor to the pump? I'm not sure what size the threaded male end of that barb even is


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[Surf_and_Turf]

My output pressure and masterflex settings are identical. I will set it up to push through the reactor instead of pulling. I know the reactors don't handle being in a slight Vaccum very well:/

[Surf_and_Turf]

The John guest fittings aren't designed for a Vaccum. I learned the hard way! I picked up some nylon compressionxthread adapters.

[ClownsRCoo]

Do you have a link for those?


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[Blitzie]

Hello All
Great Topic and Content

I have skimmed through most of this topic and I still have a question about the drives.
I Have a 180 gallon system that is is primarily SPS (95%).
Approximately what speed (rpm) could I expect to run a drive with a system this size? I would plan on using LS/17 tubing for the calculations. I see several drives available some are 10-600 RPM, others are 20-600 RPM and others are 1-100 RPM. I know early on in the topic TKRacer mentions 6-600 RPM Drives but if people are running them at 10 RPM or so is it really required. It seems those 6-600 drives get quite costly

[ostrow]

Hello All
Great Topic and Content

I have skimmed through most of this topic and I still have a question about the drives.
I Have a 180 gallon system that is is primarily SPS (95%).
Approximately what speed (rpm) could I expect to run a drive with a system this size? I would plan on using LS/17 tubing for the calculations. I see several drives available some are 10-600 RPM, others are 20-600 RPM and others are 1-100 RPM. I know early on in the topic TKRacer mentions 6-600 RPM Drives but if people are running them at 10 RPM or so is it really required. It seems those 6-600 drives get quite costly

That was my question a few posts up. As I see it:

Cons:
Far more expensive

Pros:
Less wear on drive
Quieter (each 10rpm increase comes with noticable noise increase)
Longer tube life

Given the relative cost of tube to pump, that seems irrelevant.

[Blitzie]

That was my question a few posts up. As I see it:

Cons:
Far more expensive

Pros:
Less wear on drive
Quieter (each 10rpm increase comes with noticable noise increase)
Longer tube life

Given the relative cost of tube to pump, that seems irrelevant.

I am just not sure what RPM I could expect to run on that size system
Are we talking 10 RPM or 10% of a 100 RPM capacity drive or am I talking 50 RPM.

[soulpatch]

how far can i move water with these? IE can i push and pull 20 ft? If so I can put in utility room...

[ostrow]

I am just not sure what RPM I could expect to run on that size system
Are we talking 10 RPM or 10% of a 100 RPM capacity drive or am I talking 50 RPM.

Every tank will be different. I have a 300gal system, 155gal display, with SPS. I havea 7240-40 (10-600) and L/S17. I run 70ml/min. Not sure what the rpm would be but on that? It is definitely in the low end for sure. This is to keep alk at about 3.6 meq/l or 10.2dKh.

[dendrite]

Every tank will be different. I have a 300gal system, 155gal display, with SPS. I havea 7240-40 (10-600) and L/S17. I run 70ml/min. Not sure what the rpm would be but on that? It is definitely in the low end for sure. This is to keep alk at about 3.6 meq/l or 10.2dKh.

The L/S tubing gets 2.8 cc/ revolution. If your running 70 cc/ min then the pump is rotating 25 revolutions/ min. More then enough capacity even with a 100 RPM pump

[dendrite]

oops, it's the L/S 17 tubing we are talking about

[Blitzie]

Thank you

[awais98]

Hi does any one know if drive: 7550-60 take easy load heads?
I see only precision tubing heads on ebay.
They are going cheap there 200s and want to buy it if it works with an easy load head.

I did not get that info from ColeParmer online site.
Could'nt wait till tomorrow to call company.
Thank you

[hkgar]

Help with Korallin c1502.

I have had it running with a CP pump for a couple years. Today I had to change some tubes around and when reassembled the water in the reacor empties through outlet two even though the Masterflex is set at 20ml/min. The Eheim pump is pushing the water out outlet two. If the recirc pump is shut off the flow from outlet 2 drops to the 20 ml/min

It all worked fine before, what's up?

Pump cose in the inlet and tere are outlet tubes on both outlets 1 & 2

[ClownsRCoo]

I have an extra 7518-00 easy load head if anyone is looking for one....$130

In excellent shape


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[Blitzie]

Thanks to the people who answered my questions
As a recently Purchased a 77521-50 Pump and a 77201-60 Head off Ebay
I then purchased the fittings tkracer619 listed in 3rd post just in different quantities.

The fact I am running a Lifereef Calcium Reactor meant that I had 3/8 OD tubing so I converted the entire reactor over to 1/4” tubing.
I hooked up all the tubing and fired up the pump in a pulling of water setup. I set the pump at the max RPM and it primed itself quickly with no leaks. I then dialed it back so that visually the drop rate is equal to what I was running prior. It has been running steady and has not bound with air as others are mentioning.
Now I am waiting for my Carbondoser to come in.

Just a comment to people who may be considering this setup I have a 150 Gallon Tank and a 30 Gallon Sump and by setting the drip rate to visually what it was before I am running at 8 RPM. At that speed the 77521-50 which is a 1-100RPM model is very quiet. I know I may need to adjust it in the future but I just wanted to pass this along

[awais98]

Wanted to buy a easyload pump head for the high precision L/S 17 tubing if anyone has one. PM me
Thanks



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[vhuang168]

Woohoo, managed to snag a 7523-80 new in box for $500!


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[awais98]

Woohoo, managed to snag a 7523-80 new in box for $500!


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[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


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[slief]

Woohoo, managed to snag a 7523-80 new in box for $500!


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That's a terrific pump! I've had the same one for over a year now. You will love it!

[tkeracer619]

Woohoo, managed to snag a 7523-80 new in box for $500!


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Dang, nice find!!

[tkeracer619]

Help with Korallin c1502.

I have had it running with a CP pump for a couple years. Today I had to change some tubes around and when reassembled the water in the reacor empties through outlet two even though the Masterflex is set at 20ml/min. The Eheim pump is pushing the water out outlet two. If the recirc pump is shut off the flow from outlet 2 drops to the 20 ml/min

It all worked fine before, what's up?

Pump cose in the inlet and tere are outlet tubes on both outlets 1 & 2

Did you figure it out? If not post pics.

[tkeracer619]

how far can i move water with these? IE can i push and pull 20 ft? If so I can put in utility room...

Yup, you can. If going that far I would use a 3/8 poly tube instead of the 1/4. It will work better.

[tkeracer619]

Great Post! I use CP for all my dosing needs except for a LM3 I recently got in a box of junk for top off to one tank. The CP are just so much better than any other hobby pump!



AKA: Learn from all of my (many, costly) mistakes

I was inspired by this thread when I ran into multiple failures of BRS 60mL/min peristaltic pumps. My tank kept crashing and the only way forward was to get a more reliable set of pumps. Unfortunately, there just aren’t pump options in our hobby that are both powerful and reliable for peristaltic purposes. The main problems that was causing pump failures was that I was forced to produce RO and new salt water in my garage and pump it to my aquarium room. The BRS pumps couldn’t handle the long runs from this setup. Additional pump failures occurred from ATO abuse due to Texas climate and my desire for automated water exchanges. On top of this, my lifestyle is so busy that by the time I realized a pump had failed, it was always too late and the unbalanced chemistry would cause a tank crash.

I invested in two big upgrades to improve the reliability and maintenance of my system: a Neptune Apex aquarium controller and ColeParmer peristaltic pumps. Those 4 transducers and wattage monitors on the Apex really give you instantaneous awareness of problems via telephonic means. I also changed all of my 60mL/min BRS peristaltic pumps to Masterflex 7543-30 peristaltic pumps. The process for doing this wasn’t very simple (despite this truly excellent reef central thread), and I’d like to show others exactly how to do this so they don’t waste time, money, and you understand what exactly you are getting yourself into. You should think of these pumps in terms of three components: Pump, Head, and Tubing/fittings.

Noise should be a primary decision point for a buyer of these pumps. it was not a concern for me (and the pumps I eventually chose are a bit noisy so beware if they are attached to a wall with someone sleeping next to it). I actually prefer the standard heads versus the easy loads since they hold the tubing tighter and you don’t have to fiddle with them as much as with the Easy Loads. It does take a bit of math to plan exactly how much fluid you want to exchange and back calculate the tubing diameter (mL/rotation) and RPMs of the pump when you are going with a fixed RPM. Tubing is unfortunately expensive, and there’s really no way around this. The tubing is abused and it needs to be high quality if it is going to handle the forces placed upon it by the pump. You don’t need much of it (12” or so per pump), so that’s a positive.

Structurally, you’ll see I’ve mostly been able to keep the electricity above the liquids. That was intentional since you never know where your next leak will come from. I pump the new salt and RO water from the garage and store them in Davy Jones lockers from AvastMarine, next to my CO2 bottles (always have a backup) that are locked in place. The water level pressure transducer that comes from Avast Marine has never failed me in 10+ years of use. I’m a fan. I use a dual head Masterflex 7543-30 w/ L/S 17 tubing for daily water exchange to accomplish 3-4 gallons of water exchange automatically. The cool thing about the Masterflex tubing is that it is very exacting in diameter, so it’s probably the best way to do an even water exchange without risking over or underfillling the tank. You also need to think about the RO tubing strategy, not just L/S tubing for the pump heads. I wanted the long run from my garage to my small holding tanks for RO and fresh salt water to use large bore L/S 35 Norprene tubing and 3/8” RO tubing to reduce resistance and strain on the pumps. That Norprene is tough and meant for abuse. The rest I used L/S 17 w/ 1/4” RO tubing as suggested on the first page of this thread.

The pump setups are as follows:

Pumps:
Pump: ColeParmer 7543-30
Noise: Loud (maybe 60-70dB)
Cost: $45-$70 on eBay
Size: slightly larger than BRS (see picture). VERY convenient.
Strength: Above requirements for 100’ RO tubing run.
Heads accommodated: 1 or 2 (need appropriate hardware to attach it to pump).
Fluid dynamics: w/ LS17 - 84mL/min ; w/ LS35 - 114mL/min

Pump: ColeParmer 7553-60 (variable speed for Ca reactor)
Noise: Medium (maybe 50dB)
Cost: $41 on eBay
Size: Requires stand. Big and bulky (think toaster)
Strength: Above requirements for 100’ RO tubing run.
Heads accommodated: 1 or 2 (need appropriate hardware to attach it to pump).
Fluid dynamics: wide range due to pump speed variability. Definitely perfect for a calcium reactor.

Pump: BRS 1.1mL/min
Noise: Silent
Cost: ~$80 from BRS
Size: Perfect for mounting in a clean line.
Strength: Adequate for short 1/4” RO tubing run. Low flow likely prevents major pressure problems and permits pump longevity plaguing 60mL/min pump.
Heads accommodated: 1 only. Has built-in tubing and fittings, thus cutting down on secondary pump costs dramatically and simplifies things.
Fluid dynamics: fixed at 1.1mL/min. Perfect for Ca/Mg/Alk/Carbon dosing

Tubing:

Type: PharMed® BPT Biocompatible Tubing (L/S 17) 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD x 1/16" Wall PharMed® Tubing 10’ cut into ~12” lengths.
Purpose: Flexible and tolerant of steel rollers in pump head.
Cost: $38.50 ($3.85/foot)
Endurance: medium
Fluid dynamics: 2.8 mL/min/revolution

Type: Masterflex Norprene tubing (A 60 G), L/S 35, 50 ft.
Purpose: Flexible and tolerant of steel rollers in pump head.
Cost: $125.00 ($2.50/foot)
Endurance: Extreme
Fluid dynamics: 3.8-4.3mL/min/revolution (depending on head type)

Technical data on Masterflex tubing:
Tolerance to cuastics/UV/porosity:http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/700
Sizing chart for L/S tubing: http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/772
Life chart for tubing: http://partners.coleparmer.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=Tubing_LSLife.htm

Type: LLDPE (Low Density Polyethylene tubing) 1/4” or 3/8”
Purpose: RO tubing for low cost runs away from Masterflex tubing
Cost: Inexpensive
Endurance: Years maintenance free

Heads:
L/S35 Head: Standard Head 7035-21
Cost: $50 on eBay
L/S17 Head: Standard Head 7017-21
Cost: $50-$75 on eBay
L/S17 Head: EasyLoad 7518-60
Cost: $75-$150 on eBay
Additional Info: Hardware for double stacked heads: http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/SS_mounting_hardware_mounts_two_2_Masterflex_L_S_Easy_Load_pump_heads/EW-07013-05

Purpose: main tank ATO
Pump: 7543-30
Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing from RO water container feeding into a Avast Marine Kalk stirrer. Requires a water level pressure transducer controller to turn ATO on/off.

Purpose: RO or Salt New water supply - sub-station ATOs
Pump: 7543-30
Set Up: L/S 35 tubing w/ 3/8” RO tubing 100’ run from large garage based 60 gallon drums to tank filling Avast Marine Davy Jones lockers x 2 w/ float valve controller to turn ATO pumps on/off.

Purpose: Daily water exchange
Pump: 7543-30
Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing, two stacked L/S 17 standard heads on one pump. Effluent waste water drawn off near skimmer (due to lack of algae or animals) and directly fed into sink waste, new salt feeds from a Davy Jones locker into same area.

Purpose: Calcium Reactor Feed pump
Pump: 7553-60 variable speed
Set Up: L/S 17 tubing w/ 1/4” RO tubing fed through an Easy Load head (to allow a variety of tubing options if flow ends up too high with L/S 17 at lowest flow rate). Calcium reactor set up is complicated. I’d recommend http://reef.diesyst.com/crarticle/crarticle.htm as a good read for the complexity involved in tuning them.

Lessons learned: 1) Almost any of the ColeParmer pumps will work for the peristaltic aquarium applications, even the small ones, like I got. They are WAY stronger than anything on the aquarium trade. 2) Noise - putting pumps and equipment in a closet or remote location allows a lot more diversity in inexpensive options. 3) Model numbers - overwhelming from ColePalmer standpoint. However, it’s the head that you are worried about - all of the pumps that I saw will handle the heads, so model number is somewhat irrelevant. The main thing you should be worried about is to make sure the RPMs and tubing size make for delivery in the 50-150mL/min for ATO/water exchange purposes OR 1-2mL/min for Two part and carbon dosing. Do the calculations with the L/S 17 (2.8mL/min/revolution) and L/S 35 (3.8-4.3mL/min/revolution) tubing and multiply by the revolutions per minute before you buy a pump and make sure the output is in range for your application. 4) 1/4” RO tubing for short runs, 3/8” RO tubing for long runs. 5) Cost - tubing costs a lot! You must consider all 3 aspects of these commercial grade pumps to get a price point figured out. I’d probably start with making sure you get the L/S 17 head and then go from there. Better yet, get a L/S 17 on the pump you want. 6) Size - if you get a bunch of big peristaltic pumps that will always run at the same RPMs (like an ATO), you are probably wasting money and space. Fixed RPM pumps are fine for this purpose and can be rather small.

Fittings are another problem for another write up. L/S 17 uses 1/4” barbs and we conveniently always connect it to 1/4” RO tubing with a John Guest fitting. L/S 35 uses a 3/8” barb and we conveniently always connect it to 3/8” RO tubing with a John Guest fitting.

Best of luck! I hope this helps!
:fun4:

[vhuang168]

There is another 7523-80 on eBay right now. Same seller as the 1 I bought but this one is an auction. Starting bid is $200. New in box!


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[swk]

There is another 7523-80 on eBay right now. Same seller as the 1 I bought but this one is an auction. Starting bid is $200. New in box!


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Is this a brushless model?


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[vhuang168]

Yup. Newer design body but not the latest model.


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[vhuang168]

Has anyone used a dual head to do awc with a Masterflex pump? I'm assuming it is very doable but how close would the 2 heads be in terms of output?


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[hkgar]

Has anyone used a dual head to do awc with a Masterflex pump? I'm assuming it is very doable but how close would the 2 heads be in terms of output?


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I understand it is not very doable as the pump flow is sensitive to head pressure. To do it one of the heads needs to have a pressure adjustment.

I use the Apex DOS pumps for my AWC and never a problem.

[awais98]

I understand it is not very doable as the pump flow is sensitive to head pressure. To do it one of the heads needs to have a pressure adjustment.



I use the Apex DOS pumps for my AWC and never a problem.



I am under the impression that it is perfectly doable because with the same size of tubing it delivers exact amount of liquid, every time.
The pump flow does not have any significant head pressure against it. Even if there is head pressure, those pump are rated for certain pressures.
Correct me if I am wrong.


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[hkgar]

It may not be an issue of head pressure, but different heads can exert different pressure on the tubing causing some difference in flow.

Check out the posts regarding using a head with the ability to adjust the pressuer on the tube (occlusion). There are a few around this post:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23434289&highlight=occlusion#post23434289

[vhuang168]

Both heads in my dual setup have adjustable occlusion


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[tkeracer619]

Both heads in my dual setup have adjustable occlusion


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This is what you need to do it correctly. At least one adjustable occlusion head.

If setting up with an auto changer I would definitely have a salinity probe as well and shut down the auto changer if the probe goes out of range.

[Navymedic]

I am new to this subject but buying a Skimz CM 122 Calcium reactor, and hope to start the reactor soon. So far I need a CO2 bottle, regulator, and PH regulator. A lot to read but hopefully will keep my questions down. Anyone have experience with the Skimz CM 122 calcium reactor?

[tkeracer619]

Welcome. No experience with that reactor but I am sure the group of folks in this thread can help. They're the best!

[awais98]

This is what you need to do it correctly. At least one adjustable occlusion head.



If setting up with an auto changer I would definitely have a salinity probe as well and shut down the auto changer if the probe goes out of range.



I still did not get how exactly does the adjustable occlusion head help.
Can you please explain ?



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[tkeracer619]

You can adjust the pinch. Basically it allows you to balance the heads to be the same. You don't want to pinch the tube too tight. Standard heads aren't always exactly the same.

For long runs use 3/8" or 1/2" poly to reduce head pressure.

[vhuang168]

http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/412


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[awais98]

http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/412


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[emoji106]makes sense but.....
Ours are simply salt water.... and usually the runs are not long......


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[awais98]

You can adjust the pinch. Basically it allows you to balance the heads to be the same. You don't want to pinch the tube too tight. Standard heads aren't always exactly the same.

For long runs use 3/8" or 1/2" poly to reduce head pressure.



Sorry for asking too many questions:

For simply salt water... it's not even Viscous. The runs are usually not long.... 5-10-15 feet.... does your experience say that there will be significant difference on 2 pumps heads?
If so then why not simply get dual head reef filler diaphragm pumps like Randy's for the continuous AWC?


Also if I have an adjustable compression head , how would I know that heads will be balanced.... or how much to pinch? is there a specific number? Turns etc? Or is it trial and error?

For the AWC: I'm thinking about the out from the DT sump will go to a frag tank via one head and from there it will overflow out to a plumbed drain line....
And the other head will bring fresh salt water to the DT sump....
I like the idea of a salinity probe ;)




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[tkeracer619]

A reeffiller is also a good way to go.

Almost all pumps even peristaltic pumps are effected by head pressure. The reeffiller also has an adjustment on it.

In my experience no two heads (in any setup) are exactly the same. Most of the time it's fine but to minimize the effect it is best to use larger poly lines to connect everything. 1/4" poly line is pretty restrictive.

When I did my awc with the cp pump I didn't have adjustable occlusion and instead of getting one I just added or subtracted the length of the tubing on each side to balance it. Not ideal but it worked.

[awais98]

A reeffiller is also a good way to go.

Almost all pumps even peristaltic pumps are effected by head pressure. The reeffiller also has an adjustment on it.

In my experience no two heads (in any setup) are exactly the same. Most of the time it's fine but to minimize the effect it is best to use larger poly lines to connect everything. 1/4" poly line is pretty restrictive.

When I did my awc with the cp pump I didn't have adjustable occlusion and instead of getting one I just added or subtracted the length of the tubing on each side to balance it. Not ideal but it worked.


Thank you for your reply.

I like the idea of equal length of tubing until I get an adjustable occlusion head.
My cont AWC will be about 5 ml per min( 60 gallons a month) or max 8 ml per min
You think I'd still need bigger tubing ( mine will be l/s17& 1/4" poly)?



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[Navymedic]

Whats a good pump for a newby like myself to look into?


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[vhuang168]

Whats a good pump for a newby like myself to look into?


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Depending on how many bid on this. Could be worthwhile. Got mine from the same seller for $500. These usually go for $800-$1000. There is another 1 for $1000.

Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152274409189

Cole-Parmer Masterflex L/S 7523-80


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[ostrow]

Seeking help:

I have a 7524-40 going. Not sure of the pump head but it's an easy load and ls17 tubing.

This morning no water was going through the reactor. I replaced the tubing.

but then on turning the pump on, a balloon forms in the tubing. Neared explosion. I'm doing 70ml/min. I see no clogs anywhere, water flows through the output side of the pump when I remove the tube from the connector.

What could cause this?

[vhuang168]

When you disconnect the output of the pump to the input of the reactor, does the water exit the pump?


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[ostrow]

Yup. And the tubing to the reactor is clear too

[Vinny Kreyling]

A balloon suggest a blocked passage down the line somewhere.
I would snake the tubing with a wire the rest of the way.

[vhuang168]

Yup. And the tubing to the reactor is clear too



Then you have a blockage somewhere in the reactor.

What kind of reactor is it?


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[ostrow]

Hm. Geo 817.

Didn't look it to me but will check the effluent line. That adapter may be a spot. Hard to get that piece off to clean....

[vhuang168]

Geo reactors sometimes have issues with excess CO2 pressure causing problems with effluent flow.


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[slief]

Geo reactors sometimes have issues with excess CO2 pressure causing problems with effluent flow.


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I've never had that sort of an issue with my Geo. Excess Co2 won't result in positive pressure in the reactor as long as the effluent lines aren't clogged. I suspect there has to be a clog in the lines either between the pump and reactor or between the reactor and sump. Whether one of the lines has a clog or the fittings, there has to be a clog someplace in line.

[ostrow]

When I read through this thread that was supposed to be one of the advantages of these pumps!!!

So, is this not the case, and if not, what then is the solution?!?

[slief]

When I read through this thread that was supposed to be one of the advantages of these pumps!!!

So, is this not the case, and if not, what then is the solution?!?

There has to be a clog someplace whether in a line or in a fitting. I've run this same setup for about 2 years now and never had an issue that you are describing and I too use a Geo. The tubing is swelling because you are building up pressure and that has to be the result of a restriction someplace after the pump.

[tkeracer619]

When I read through this thread that was supposed to be one of the advantages of these pumps!!!

So, is this not the case, and if not, what then is the solution?!?

You have a blockage somewhere in your reactor. Often they are in elbows. Did you remove your needle valve? If not that would be my first suspect.

Pharmed BPT LS17 can generate 13psi of pressure. If you are ballooning it you have a serious clog. No pump can overcome that. Honestly I am surprised the orings on the reactor aren't leaking. 13psi in a reactor with a 4" chamber is putting 163lbs of pressure on the lid. This is why I recommend pulling through the reactor instead of pushing.

[ostrow]

8" chamber.

No needle valve as I removed when installed the masterflex.

Only elbow is from the pharmed to the room tubing.

Will check fittings on reactor. Perhaps debris got in there...

[machodik]

Hi all,

Please help me solve my problem with my Geo 618, so much bubbles in the reactor , I use a peristaltic pump to draw the reactor water to the sump but the hose is full of air and parameters fluctuate due to no liquid being drip In to the sump


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[tkeracer619]

Hi all,

Please help me solve my problem with my Geo 618, so much bubbles in the reactor , I use a peristaltic pump to draw the reactor water to the sump but the hose is full of air and parameters fluctuate due to no liquid being drip In to the sump


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Turn off the co2 gas, does the problem still occur?

If yes, you have an air leak in a fitting, tube, or gasket. Take apart the entire thing and re-assemble using teflon paste on the threaded fittings and silicone grease (not glue) on any orings.

If no, post pics of how you have the reactor setup. Do not assume you have no air leaks, you must test this by cutting off the co2 gas first.

[machodik]

Thanks for the prompt reply TK,

Actually I saw some air space from the supplying hose to the reactor. This is the tube that is where the water from the tank getting in to the reactor , as I am using the peristaltic pump (Watson Marlow) pulling the water out from the reactor . And I can see so much air bubbles on the inside of reactor too


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[tkeracer619]

That is probably the issue then. The reactor needs to be air tight.

[machodik]

I will try to check when I got back this Sunday since I am traveling now . But in case if the issue is the Co2, as it really have some bubbles getting in , how you going to stop it from producing bubbles then ?


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[tkeracer619]

On a GEO it requires modification to the reactor lid.

9 out of 10 times your problem comes from poor connections. Make sure all connections are air tight. Air can get in places water doesn't so it can be tricky.

[machodik]

Wow, so Geo is not the best reactor ? How to make the modification on the lid?


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[vhuang168]

If you changed the setup to push water through the reactor, I think that might help you issue. To pull water, the reactor needs to be absolutely air tight. Not just water tight but air tight!


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[tkeracer619]

Wow, so Geo is not the best reactor ? How to make the modification on the lid?


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Don't worry about it until you resolve your leak issues but it involves adding an additional port to the lid which means you need to drill with a special bit. Fix the leaks in your reactor first.

GEO is a fine reactor.

[machodik]

If you changed the setup to push water through the reactor, I think that might help you issue. To pull water, the reactor needs to be absolutely air tight. Not just water tight but air tight!


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Can I do push and pull ? Which means aside from my peristaltic pump pulling the water out , I add one more pump to push the water at the same time ? I have found when I use push water no issue with bubbles .

If I add push to pull will this create some leakages later on as the push is stronger than the pull . May be using a small pump will help ?


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[machodik]

Don't worry about it until you resolve your leak issues but it involves adding an additional port to the lid which means you need to drill with a special bit. Fix the leaks in your reactor first.



GEO is a fine reactor.



I don't see any possible leaks , I tightly twist the PH probe port which I think that may be one of the possible leakage cause (if any).

I wonder if this is due to co2 bubbles then what is the remedy then?


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[tkeracer619]

If you turn gas off does the problem still exist?

[slief]

Can I do push and pull ? Which means aside from my peristaltic pump pulling the water out , I add one more pump to push the water at the same time ? I have found when I use push water no issue with bubbles .

If I add push to pull will this create some leakages later on as the push is stronger than the pull . May be using a small pump will help ?


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Why would you push and pull at the same time. There is no reason to do that. If you don't have excess gas in the reactor when pushing, just leave the pump setup to push water through the reactor. That's how I have mine setup and it runs perfectly fine. The only time I've ever had excess gas in my reactor is when the output pressure on the regulator is too high. I keep mine set at 3psi to the reactor and have no issues with gas build up with my Geo but as I said, I have my pump setup to push through the reactor and unlike others, I've never modified my Geo to relocate the effluent connection.

[machodik]

Thanks Scott,

I do pull because I am a peristaltic pump pulling the effluent out.

Previously I only use push with our peristaltic pump then it clogs easily .

I wonder when you push , you no longer using master flex pump ? I remember you use that pump too.

Can you help me how you do yours ?

Thanks


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[ostrow]

He like most use the masterflex to feed (push through) the reactor

[slief]

Thanks Scott,

I do pull because I am a peristaltic pump pulling the effluent out.

Previously I only use push with our peristaltic pump then it clogs easily .

I wonder when you push , you no longer using master flex pump ? I remember you use that pump too.

Can you help me how you do yours ?

Thanks


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I still use my masteflex but switched to pushing a long time ago. I never have issues with clogging either. If you're having clogging issues then I can only assume your pump doesn't produce as much pressure as the masteflex, your effluent tubing is too small in diameter or you pH is much lower than you realize.

[hkgar]

I have a Reef Octopus cr5000 CA reactor and it use a CO2 re-circulation system. I know there is air (not CO2) in the chamber but I can not figure out how to purge the system of all air. The reactor uses a Water Blaster 3000 pump. Any ideas?

Thanks

[dattack]

I have a Reef Octopus cr5000 CA reactor and it use a CO2 re-circulation system. I know there is air (not CO2) in the chamber but I can not figure out how to purge the system of all air. The reactor uses a Water Blaster 3000 pump. Any ideas?

Thanks
MIght want to try turning off the recirculation pump and the CO2. Just have the feed pump to the reactor run an hour or two. Should eventually push our most of the gas out since it will rise to the top before the water.

[machodik]

I did that already but I was wondering why the bubbles keep coming back or should I say keep having air ?

I have use a very small pump to push the water into the reactor and let my Watson Marlow pull the effluent back to the tank .

With the small pump I can see that no more air column on the hose going to the reactor but the next day I can see some air bubbles accumulate on the top of the calcium reactor , I wonder if this is cause by the co2 ? If so how can I minimize it? Turning off the Co2 then useless for having a calcium reactor , right ?


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[hkgar]

MIght want to try turning off the recirculation pump and the CO2. Just have the feed pump to the reactor run an hour or two. Should eventually push our most of the gas out since it will rise to the top before the water.
The problem is with the way a CO2 recirc works. The tube from the top of the chamber goes back into the re-circulation pump line. The effluent output is about 2 inches down into the chamber and not at the very top.
The flow of the CO@ re-circ is from the outlet in the middle on the lid to the top of the tube of the tube coming up from the pump and the effluent line is on the left. The ph probe is on the right of the lid.

[tkeracer619]

Turning off the Co2 then useless for having a calcium reactor , right ?



It's a test to see if it is air or co2. You turn co2 back on once you determine the cause of the build up. It's the first step to troubleshooting. Almost always it is air caused by poor connections. If you have teflon tape on plastic fittings that is probably the issue.

Most of these reactors that are "co2 saving" just cause headaches by putting the effluent output lower than the lid or on the recirculation tube. Gas naturally moves to the center of a pipe if water is flowing. It cannot escape the reactor.

You can often solve it other ways but a simple solution is to drill a hole in the lid, glue a fitting on, and take effluent from the lid instead of the factory location.

[Dustin1300]

I recently re-ordered another cole parmer controller side as mine had died after a storm the first of this year. The new setup is not working for me so ordered new unit (900-1554) and from what I'm seeing on this thread it's set up for remote mode? Is there any recovering this or did I just waste my money and need to dispute through eBay?

[vhuang168]

900-1554 is just the controller. You need an accompanying drive and head unit.


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