Understanding and choosing t5 Ballast. diy [Archive]

banthonyb71

02/07/2015, 08:25 PM

Just a heads up, I will be actively involved in this thread and I plan on acting on every diy I inquire about on this forum, I do not want to waste your valued time asking questions I never plan to commit too.

There are several projects I wanted to try diy and although a t5 fixture is not at the top of the list. it something that will keep my attention being that concerns electronics is more of my feild than anything else.

I wanted to build a t5 fixture from the ground up but first, I wanted to learn everything I can about t5 ballast, what makes one better than the other, which one is better for this hobby.

The sticky on this thread there is a links page that has a company that sells electronic ballast. If I wanted to use one of these ballasts for a diy as oppose to using old icecap ballasts or ballasts from a branded fixture. What am I looking for? ie.e wattage, voltage, efficiency? and I know this is alot to ask to be explain but.. is there already a page with this information on it? or someone who has done this before?

tkeracer619

02/07/2015, 08:54 PM

If you run a vue 660 (icecap) you are going to overdrive the t5 bulbs. They need fans and won't last as long.

I just setup a diy fixture for my nem tank.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/16139646970_3d45063306_c.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7568/15711541173_5d1c4c002b_c.jpg

I used 6 39w t5 with individual reflectors. Running 3 Sylvania 51479 ballasts. These are proper t5 ballasts that will not overdrive the bulbs.

banthonyb71

02/07/2015, 10:01 PM

If you run a vue 660 (icecap) you are going to overdrive the t5 bulbs. They need fans and won't last as long.

Running 3 Sylvania 51479 ballasts. These are proper t5 ballasts that will not overdrive the bulbs.

but what makes one ballast better than another. what are things you look for in a quality ballast?

banthonyb71

02/07/2015, 11:45 PM

If you run a vue 660 (icecap) you are going to overdrive the t5 bulbs. They need fans and won't last as long.

I wasnt particularly wanting to use that ballast but since you mentioned it. Could you not set up a diy system to cool those ballasts?

and are these the same ballasts?
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoralVue_VHO_T5_120VAC_60Hz_660_Fluorescent_Ballast_T5_PC_VHO_Fluorescent_Aquarium_Ballasts-CoralVue-CV1613-FILTACBAFL-vi.html

tkeracer619

02/08/2015, 12:46 AM

banthonyb71

02/08/2015, 12:56 AM

The bulbs need fans not the ballast when overdriven. Can't tell you what makes a good ballast but the sylvanias seem to be trusted and recommended as being good actual t5 ballasts. Vue and Workhorse aren't. It has to do with the start iirc.

Those ballasts I used came with a 5 year warranty as well.

lol. you seem adamant about talking me out of a ballast, I never said I wanted to use. Actually, I only mentioned that ballast because I wanted to do the opposite and avoid its mention because every search I've done on the subject, those ballast get talked about alot. but I'm just curious about ballast in general. If such info does exist. Not so much about brands or model numbers.

uncleof6

02/08/2015, 01:08 AM

I wasnt particularly wanting to use that ballast but since you mentioned it. Could you not set up a diy system to cool those ballasts?

and are these the same ballasts?
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoralVue_VHO_T5_120VAC_60Hz_660_Fluorescent_Ballast_T5_PC_VHO_Fluorescent_Aquarium_Ballasts-CoralVue-CV1613-FILTACBAFL-vi.html

These ballasts can and have caused catastrophic failure of T5/HO lamps. Due to catastrophic failures, IceCap was forced to have special lamps manufactured. They went kaput a while back. 660s (and 440s) are not T5/HO ballasts, (T5/VHO is a myth) they are T12/VHO ballasts, and do not have the proper current limiting required by T5/HO lamps, nor do they have the proper start characteristics for T5/HO lamps, or the end of life circuitry. Sure folks use them, but that does not make it safe, advisable, or even necessary. It just means folks do it. All in all, you are just burning more watts to drive a lighting technology that is supposed to be more efficient than T12: a self defeating way to do things. If one really wishes to burn up the watts, build a T12/VHO fixture! Stunning displays are possible with T12/VHO, and T8 as well... I have seen them. Snoop around GARF.org, if ya think I am out of my mind... ;):wavehand:

If the temperature of the lamp is not correct, the output decreases. Excessively overheating of the lamps, cannot be covered up by cooling fans. T5/HO is a very different technology than T12 or T8. T5/HO is also the very first fluorescent technology that requires an electronic ballast, and there is no magnetic ballast that will run them.

There is absolutely no reason to overdrive T5/HO lamps. Normally driven T5/HO with good quality reflectors, is capable of everything that MH has done. If you have a deep dimensioned tank (top to bottom) you may have to be more selective as to where you place your critters, or just go back to Metal Halide. There is also a great deal of mythology surrounding the actual light needs of the critters we keep, so that needs to be kept in mind. I run clams in the sand on 29" tall tanks, anyone can, using normally driven T5/HO. (There is a plenum system in the bottom, but who is looking. ;) )

T5/HO ballasts are application specific. Each ballast is intended to run one type of T5/HO lamp, F54T5/HO for instance, for a 48" (46.something actually) 54 watt T5/HO lamp. (Other lamps may be listed, but they are related to T5/HO.) They use a programmed start, not an instant start. (Instant start can and does cause failure of the filaments, and cooling won't help.)

End of life circuitry is not critical really, as most often the lamps are replaced before they reach their end of life.

EDIT: So you heard the talk anyway LOL. Going to leave it here for others.

Advance ballasts are the most reliable T5/HO ballasts on the market. They are correct T5/HO ballasts, and are plenty for our purposes.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/uncleof6/DSCN0219.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/uncleof6/DSCN0220.jpg

That is an ICN-2S54 ballast from Advance. The light you see in the background is these lamps output reflecting off the ceiling. I typically run 8 - 12 over average sized tanks.

tkeracer619

02/08/2015, 01:22 AM

:lol:

banthonyb71

02/08/2015, 11:07 AM

EDIT: So you heard the talk anyway LOL. Going to leave it here for others.

Duly noted. lol. Stay away from Ice Cap for overdriving t5's. I can assure you, I have no interest in those ballasts. however, I read a thread in which you did recommend diy t5 fixture.

So lets ask this. what type of ballast is in say.. an ATI PowerModule?

banthonyb71

02/08/2015, 11:11 AM

T

Advance ballasts are the most reliable T5/HO ballasts on the market. They are correct T5/HO ballasts, and are plenty for our purposes.

I ran a search and they average around $30. Is that the correct part? seems cheap.

tkeracer619

02/08/2015, 12:16 PM

Yes, it is. They are reasonably priced.

uncleof6

02/08/2015, 03:47 PM

Duly noted. lol. Stay away from Ice Cap for overdriving t5's. I can assure you, I have no interest in those ballasts. however, I read a thread in which you did recommend diy t5 fixture.

So lets ask this. what type of ballast is in say.. an ATI PowerModule?

A T5/HO ballast of the proper specifications, made by HEP. They are electronic, programmed start ballasts, very much the same as the Advance ICN series.

banthonyb71

02/08/2015, 06:48 PM

A T5/HO ballast of the proper specifications, made by HEP. They are electronic, programmed start ballasts, very much the same as the Advance ICN series.

So.. is there 1 part number or different versions? I seen one had a 90c at the end of that part number.

I want to do 6 lamp 65 watt. how many ballasts would I need? 3?

uncleof6

02/08/2015, 10:12 PM

So.. is there 1 part number or different versions? I seen one had a 90c at the end of that part number.

I want to do 6 lamp 65 watt. how many ballasts would I need? 3?

65 watt is not a T5/HO Lamp, and part numbers are all different; 90c is a temperature.

There is 54 watt (F54T5HO; 48") or 80 watt (F80T5HO; 60".) ICN-2S54-T for 54 watt, and ICN-1S80-T for 80 watt lamps. Advance does not make a dual for 80 watt lamps. HEP ballast numbers are: SI254-58 UNI, and SI280 UNI, respectively.

For 6x 54 watt lamps you need three ballasts, for 80 watt, you need 3x ballasts if HEP, and 6x if using Advance.

Jone

02/08/2015, 10:36 PM

tagggin

banthonyb71

02/09/2015, 05:37 PM

65 watt is not a T5/HO Lamp, and part numbers are all different; 90c is a temperature.

There is 54 watt (F54T5HO; 48") or 80 watt (F80T5HO; 60".) ICN-2S54-T for 54 watt, and ICN-1S80-T for 80 watt lamps. Advance does not make a dual for 80 watt lamps. HEP ballast numbers are: SI254-58 UNI, and SI280 UNI, respectively.

For 6x 54 watt lamps you need three ballasts, for 80 watt, you need 3x ballasts if HEP, and 6x if using Advance.

sorry, I knew dat. 54 watts for my length. So u mentioned temp. are they different temperatures or was seller just mentioning that temp and adding to part number?

So I need INC-2s54-t

U sure bout this? cause Im gonna pull the trigger and buy these things. I've read through ur threads and Im trustin ur knowledge

tkeracer619

02/09/2015, 05:41 PM

No, they are not different temps. That is the max case temp allowed. If it gets hotter the ballast will degrade.

banthonyb71

02/09/2015, 06:19 PM

or was seller just mentioning that temp and adding to part number?

No, they are not different temps.

Just a question. I have no clue. never implied I did. when I see a number in a part number..better to ask.

http://www.ballastshop.com/icn-2s54-t.html

uncleof6

02/09/2015, 06:22 PM

sorry, I knew dat. 54 watts for my length. So u mentioned temp. are they different temperatures or was seller just mentioning that temp and adding to part number?

So I need INC-2s54-t

U sure bout this? cause Im gonna pull the trigger and buy these things. I've read through ur threads and Im trustin ur knowledge

Advance Centium ICN-2S54, right from the ballast case. It is also listed in their catalog as ICN-2S54. Some places it is listed as ICN-2S54-T; even Advance has it listed that way in their spec sheets.

An ICN-2S54-90c-T ballast is the "same," but has a max ballast case temperature of 90°C for warranty purposes, rather than the standard 70°C warranty on the standard ICN-2S54-T.

The important part is the ICN-2S54, the line voltage: 120/277, and the line frequency: 50/60Hz.

Just for grins, the ballast frequency is above 40KHz.

banthonyb71

02/11/2015, 09:58 PM

Advance Centium ICN-2S54

As stated before, a t5 project was definitely something I was interested in making happen as soon as possible. but now I'm having doubts on if what I'm trying to do is smart. I wanted to attempt to make a t5 fixture from scratch. but I've been reading every thread I could find for the last several days and I dont see people doing what I'm trying to do. Essentially people either use retro kits or assemble a new fixture out of a fixture they already have. I dont have a fixture in the size I want.

Is there even a point in me buying these ballast if I have to buy them with a retro kit anyway?

If possible I would like to use high quality reflectors. but who makes them? Let? Ati? any recommendations on where I can buy individual parts or a way I can buy reflectors, balllasts, seperate?

uncleof6

02/12/2015, 01:24 AM

As stated before, a t5 project was definitely something I was interested in making happen as soon as possible. but now I'm having doubts on if what I'm trying to do is smart. I wanted to attempt to make a t5 fixture from scratch. but I've been reading every thread I could find for the last several days and I dont see people doing what I'm trying to do. Essentially people either use retro kits or assemble a new fixture out of a fixture they already have. I dont have a fixture in the size I want.

Is there even a point in me buying these ballast if I have to buy them with a retro kit anyway?

If possible I would like to use high quality reflectors. but who makes them? Let? Ati? any recommendations on where I can buy individual parts or a way I can buy reflectors, balllasts, seperate?

Whether an assembled retro would be worth it or not, depends on what ballast comes with the retro. Not all retros are created equal, and they do not all have the proper ballast (doesn't have to be Advance or HEP, just proper.)

On the other hand, a DIY retro...

http://www.hellolights.com/48-Inch-54w-Retrofit-Kit/dp/B00CSAXV42?class=quickView&field_availability=-1&field_browse=6794660011&id=48+Inch+54w+Retrofit+Kit&ie=UTF8&refinementHistory=brandtextbin%2Csubjectbin%2Ccolor_map%2Cprice%2Csize_name%2Citem_type_keyword&searchNodeID=6794660011&searchPage=1&searchRank=salesrank&searchSize=12

Building a custom fixture is a decision you have to make. I have done many of them, and so have others. I think most folks are more apt to get in trouble cannibalizing another fixture, rather than starting from scratch. It is not that hard really. You need a surface to mount the end caps, and the rest just goes together. You have to understand, you are not going to be building an ATI Powermodule. The secret to the powermodule is in the cooling system, (case design,) the tombstone end caps, and the reflectors, Aquactinics are comparable. (And then they go and ruin it by adding LEDs.)

Parts are readily available, other than tombstone end caps used to make narrower fixtures than the "water resistant big white end caps." Aquactinics markets very high quality reflectors arguably the best since IceCap is kaput. No. 1 and No. 2 respectively. They are not advertised on their website, you have to call them.

Ballasts are available all day long online. They may cost more than locally sourced, (trade electrical supply houses.) Watch the start type (programmed start, not instant start) and stay away from Fulham, the least reliable ballasts on the market.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/f54t5-fluorescent-ballasts/

End caps a dime a dozen.

The hardest thing to find is 18 gauge solid copper wire, which makes the Hellolights' deal very attractive.

Kyuss

02/12/2015, 04:29 PM

Good to hear some feedback on the Advance ballasts. I posted in another T5 thread recently about replacing ballasts for 2x 80w T5s and seems proper F80T5HO ballasts aren't all that common, and then to find a reliable place with them in stock; I can find 18ga solid copper wire a lot easier than this.

After the mess with ordering the Sola ballasts from 1000bulbs (appeared as in-stock, no note to call them to make sure etc, but then switched to back ordered til 3/4 after I ordered 2 and they emailed me as such) I found a place in driving distance that has 2 ICN-1S80s in stock. Think I'll be taking a little trip to the store soon.

banthonyb71

02/12/2015, 06:54 PM

(doesn't have to be Advance or HEP, just proper.
whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

" Aquactinics markets very high quality reflectors arguably the best.
what is the website? I cant seem to find. Is LET now Aquactinics? I was reading some forums and I read that a company that is now LET has some of the highest quality reflectors available. are we speaking of the same? This is the only site I found
http://letlighting.com/ Which is not much of a site.

The hardest thing to find is 18 gauge solid copper wire.
I can make myself useful here. we build emergency vehicles. we using nohing but high quality true gauge wire.

uncleof6

02/13/2015, 12:47 AM

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

They are ICN-4S54-90c-2LS-G if HD has them for 36 bones, grab it... that ballast can be as high as 202 bones. But you will still need to pick up an ICN-2S54.

what is the website? I cant seem to find. Is LET now Aquactinics? I was reading some forums and I read that a company that is now LET has some of the highest quality reflectors available. are we speaking of the same? This is the only site I found
http://letlighting.com/ Which is not much of a site.This is their contact info:

Aquactinics, LLC
5 Philips Pl.
North Haven, CT 06473
(203) 234-9286

If the phone is disconnected they might have gone bye bye. I have been on their website before, and it was a nice website. Don't find it now.... last tweet was 1 Jan 2011... might have to stop talking about them.

I can make myself useful here. we build emergency vehicles. we using nohing but high quality true gauge wire.

Kyuss

02/13/2015, 12:58 AM

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?
Looks like Home Depot actually carries the correct Advance ones for F54T5HO, at least online. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-Advance-Centium-49-54-Watt-120-277-Volt-1-or-2-Lamp-T5HO-Programmed-Start-Electronic-Fluorescent-Replacement-Ballast-502211/202977281

On Lowes website I can only find T8 & T12 ballasts.

Ballasts have a "ballast factor" that is determines how they drive a bulb for the bulbs they're designed to drive. A low BF (<1.0) is under-driving a lamp so it'll put out less than the bulbs rated lumens, but will extend the life of the bulb. A high BF (>1.0) will over-drive the bulbs so it'll put out more than the rated lumens, but will shorten the life of the bulb. A BF of 1.0 means the bulbs operate at the intended spec for T5HO and so at their stated spec.

Ballasts like the Icecap 660 that are notorious for over-driving T5HO bulbs are actually designed for T8 & T12. They work, but being that they weren't designed for T5HO spec you get what you get, which happens to be an over-driven T5HO bulb. I haven't seen the manufacturer(s) list a ballast factor for these on T5HOs which makes sense since that wasn't what they were intended for, but I've read it would equate to something like a 1.2 BF, which is quite high (20% over-driven.) Not sure how accurate that is however. Over or under-driving a bulb will also shift the color spectrum a bit from it's intended range.

There's also the start type - instant start, rapid start, and programmed rapid start. The programmed rapid start ballasts, while not required, are said to lengthen the life of the bulb. Instant and rapid start ballasts are said to blacken the ends of the bulb over time, particularly instant start.

Ballasts like the Advance Centiums are designed for the T5HO spec so they have a BF of 1.0 and are also programmed rapid start ballasts all for $30-$40. It doesn't make too much sense to cut corners here when bulbs are $20+ a pop. Instead of over-driving the bulbs you'd be better off adding two more bulbs, rather than having to switch all of your other bulbs out more often, deal with hotter running bulbs, and the shift in color spectrum. 54W and lower bulbs you can run two bulbs on one ballasts so even with reflectors & bulbs it's not long before you're back ahead money wise, and from what I've gathered 80W bulbs take to over-driving the worst.

aiq25

02/13/2015, 07:08 AM

I would like to try this as well. I think pick up the Advance F54T5HO, I been thinking about a DIY T5HO fixture for some time.

banthonyb71

02/13/2015, 08:02 PM

202 bones.
he said bones. hehe

Looks like Home Depot actually carries the correct Advance ones for F54T5HO, at least online. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-Advance-Centium-49-54-Watt-120-277-Volt-1-or-2-Lamp-T5HO-Programmed-Start-Electronic-Fluorescent-Replacement-Ballast-502211/202977281

On Lowes website I can only find T8 & T12 ballasts.

.

Thanks for all the good info. more of what I been looking for.

Its cool I can grab them from Home Depot without paying shipping.

I'll update once I receive the ballasts. still havnt decided on reflectors. I seen another review on ****** about LET reflectors being same as aquailliminations. any one heard of them

Also, what other options besides a wooden canopy do I have for the fixture?

Kyuss

02/14/2015, 02:11 AM

Also, what other options besides a wooden canopy do I have for the fixture?I've been thinking about just ditching this creation from the previous owner of my tank and making a new setup as well.

Something simple like t-slot framing http://www.ebay.com/itm/330568173792, maybe a couple cross-braces and aluminum sheeting on the top with some 120mm fans and it wouldn't look half bad IMO and would make it quite easy and relatively inexpensive. Just keep in mind it's anodized if you want to paint it. Doable but a little more work.

banthonyb71

02/14/2015, 01:59 PM

I've been thinking about just ditching this creation from the previous owner of my tank and making a new setup as well.

Something simple like t-slot framing http://www.ebay.com/itm/330568173792, maybe a couple cross-braces and aluminum sheeting on the top with some 120mm fans and it wouldn't look half bad IMO and would make it quite easy and relatively inexpensive. Just keep in mind it's anodized if you want to paint it. Doable but a little more work.

I wonder if I could try that and incase it with somthing like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brite-Brushed-Anodized-Aluminum-Sheet-040-x-12-x-24-/141425719571?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20eda13913

banthonyb71

02/14/2015, 07:13 PM

Advance Centium ICN-2S54, right from the ballast case. It is also listed in their catalog as ICN-2S54. Some places it is listed as ICN-2S54-T; even Advance has it listed that way in their spec sheets.

An ICN-2S54-90c-T ballast is the "same," but has a max ballast case temperature of 90°C for warranty purposes, rather than the standard 70°C warranty on the standard ICN-2S54-T.

The important part is the ICN-2S54, the line voltage: 120/277, and the line frequency: 50/60Hz.

Just for grins, the ballast frequency is above 40KHz.

btw. are these ballasts dimmable?

uncleof6

02/14/2015, 09:08 PM

btw. are these ballasts dimmable?

Ok, now you are asking too much, of a Home Depot ballast. Dimmable gunna cost you some bucks. If you wanna have your cake, and eat it too, you have to get away from Home Depot into the real market. :)

banthonyb71

02/15/2015, 09:40 PM

Looks like Home Depot actually carries the correct Advance ones for F54T5HO, at least online. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-Advance-Centium-49-54-Watt-120-277-Volt-1-or-2-Lamp-T5HO-Programmed-Start-Electronic-Fluorescent-Replacement-Ballast-502211/202977281

On Lowes website I can only find T8 & T12 ballasts.

Ballasts have a "ballast factor" that is determines how they drive a bulb for the bulbs they're designed to drive. A low BF (<1.0) is under-driving a lamp so it'll put out less than the bulbs rated lumens, but will extend the life of the bulb. A high BF (>1.0) will over-drive the bulbs so it'll put out more than the rated lumens, but will shorten the life of the bulb. A BF of 1.0 means the bulbs operate at the intended spec for T5HO and so at their stated spec.

Ballasts like the Icecap 660 that are notorious for over-driving T5HO bulbs are actually designed for T8 & T12. They work, but being that they weren't designed for T5HO spec you get what you get, which happens to be an over-driven T5HO bulb. I haven't seen the manufacturer(s) list a ballast factor for these on T5HOs which makes sense since that wasn't what they were intended for, but I've read it would equate to something like a 1.2 BF, which is quite high (20% over-driven.) Not sure how accurate that is however. Over or under-driving a bulb will also shift the color spectrum a bit from it's intended range.

There's also the start type - instant start, rapid start, and programmed rapid start. The programmed rapid start ballasts, while not required, are said to lengthen the life of the bulb. Instant and rapid start ballasts are said to blacken the ends of the bulb over time, particularly instant start.

Ballasts like the Advance Centiums are designed for the T5HO spec so they have a BF of 1.0 and are also programmed rapid start ballasts all for $30-$40. It doesn't make too much sense to cut corners here when bulbs are $20+ a pop. Instead of over-driving the bulbs you'd be better off adding two more bulbs, rather than having to switch all of your other bulbs out more often, deal with hotter running bulbs, and the shift in color spectrum. 54W and lower bulbs you can run two bulbs on one ballasts so even with reflectors & bulbs it's not long before you're back ahead money wise, and from what I've gathered 80W bulbs take to over-driving the worst.

On 1000 bulbs I seen some ballast upwards of $180. If this is a good ballast what is the diffrence in the price jump from $30 to $180?

oreo57

02/16/2015, 12:24 PM

what is the difference in the price jump from $30 to $180?

Depends if they sell them to people that "make" money i.e commercial (with at times have more money than sense).. Or us.. ;)

uncleof6

02/16/2015, 12:44 PM

Depends if they sell them to people that "make" money i.e commercial (with at times have more money than sense).. Or us.. ;)

No, that is seldom, if ever, the case from a retailer such as 1000 bulbs, or Home Depot. An electrical supplier will have a "sliding" scale which will include retail/taxable, wholesale/taxable, wholesale/non-taxable, and bulk/taxable and non-taxable.

I think you have the who "have more money than sense" a bit backwards. ;)

The OP asked a rather non-specific question, what ballasts? Hold them a bit closer to the screen, they are hard to see from here... ;) :D

oreo57

02/16/2015, 12:50 PM

No, that is seldom, if ever, the case from a retailer such as 1000 bulbs, or Home Depot. An electrical supplier will have a "sliding" scale which will include retail/taxable, wholesale/taxable, wholesale/non-taxable, and bulk/taxable and non-taxable.

I think you have the who "have more money than sense" a bit backwards. ;)

The OP asked a rather non-specific question, what ballasts? Hold them a bit closer to the screen, they are hard to see from here... ;) :D

Really?? Boss just put in some LED track light w/ 7W heads (3-3W 3500K diodes).. at $150/pop..
Who has more money than sense???

Sorry this is all for fun..and for when I'm shopping a Grainger catalog for solenoids (or Ballasts) and such..

Technically it seems the big difference is caused by "cold start".. The lower temp it works at.. the more expensive it is..Can't see a need for a -20 degree ballast here.. ;)

Not being too familiar w/ ballast nuts and bolts I instinctively don't see a 2x cost factor as legitimate (based strictly on components) for a 20 degree difference in effective start temp (0 vs -20)

could be way wrong:
https://www.1000bulbs.com/search?category=1843&filter%5BBrand%5D%5B0%5D=Advance&sel%5BBrand%5D%5B0%5D=Advance&sort=price_a&so=0

Kyuss

02/16/2015, 01:24 PM

On 1000 bulbs I seen some ballast upwards of $180. If this is a good ballast what is the diffrence in the price jump from $30 to $180?

Which ones?

The only F54T5 ballast I see at that price is Advances dimming ballast. There's a couple around the $80 mark that are for 4 lamps, or for 480V. There's one oddball "2-4" lamp Fullham ballast at about $50, but I've always heard they're unreliable.

uncleof6

02/16/2015, 01:28 PM

Specifically looking at the Centiums, the price difference is reflected by the number of lamps more so than the start temp. 2-lamp ~ $40, 4-lamp around $80. Makes perfect sense, without trying to read a great deal more into it. Comparing to other brands, Advance is considered to be at the top of the heap, and the most reliable. They are going to cost more. Why, because they can charge what they want to. Fulhams are at the bottom of the pile, being the least reliable. Anything that costs less than a Fulham is not worth considering. You get what you pay for.

An Advance Centium ICN-2S54-T costs around $40. It is a (2) Lamp - F54T5/HO 120/277volt ballast. It has a start temp of 0°F.

An Advance Mark 7 0 - 10v IZT2S54D35M costs around $180. It is a (2) Lamp - F54T5/HO 120/277volt ballast. It has a start temp of 50°F! Why so much? It is a dimmable ballast.

You cannot compare apples and oranges.

You may be right about your boss, I will let him know the next time I see him...:D

oreo57

02/16/2015, 02:02 PM

You may be right about your boss, I will let him know the next time I see him...:D

Tattle tale.... Besides he is already aware..The experts were wrong, not enough output besides.. ;)
Of course he could have just asked me and saved the redo.. ;)

banthonyb71

02/16/2015, 05:50 PM

The OP asked a rather non-specific question, what ballasts? Hold them a bit closer to the screen, they are hard to see from here... ;) :D

Which ballasts have we been discussing? + what ballast on 1000 bulbs cost $180 = answer to your question. I dont know. I didnt think it was that broad of a question. pretty easy for a guy like you to figure out.... if he really felt like it. but it looks like you answered the question afterall. Thank You..

banthonyb71

02/16/2015, 05:54 PM

Which ones?

The only F54T5 ballast I see at that price is Advances dimming ballast. There's a couple around the $80 mark that are for 4 lamps, or for 480V. There's one oddball "2-4" lamp Fullham ballast at about $50, but I've always heard they're unreliable.

I've been trying to decide what to do. I was thinking I wanted to be able to dim the t5's but I think I finally made my mind. I wanna do a Hybrid fixture. So I think Ill go with the t5's you guys have suggested as I believe you've pretty much confirmed these are the best "non"dimmable ballasts out there.

banthonyb71

02/16/2015, 06:24 PM

I'm posted my thoughts on refurbishing my Halide fixture for another thread. I dint wanna lead to far off base. as I still plan on proceeding with the t5 build.

1mbrews8

04/16/2015, 10:26 PM

uncleof6

04/16/2015, 11:36 PM

ok, so right now, I have (8) 60", 80w T5s over my DT. They are powered by 3 ice caps (660, 660, 430) with 3 bulbs, 3 bulbs, and 2 bulbs respectively wired.

Both the 660s went out.

What are my options on replacing them? I read the thread and kinda have an idea, but it is better if you guys would just say this is A, this is B. Pick one. :o)

Do I need other wiring harnesses?

not sure if I want to replace the ic430 right now...

thanks!

Mike

Replace them with proper T5/HO ballasts that have been discussed above. While you are at it, replace the 430 as well, as it is the wrong ballast just as the 660s are. The current limiting is insufficient to safely run T5/HO lamps.

They do not make a wire harness, for proper ballast/lamps combinations. You would have to wire them up the same, and the wiring will not be the same. The wiring diagram comes on the top of the ballasts. (If you buy decent ballasts. If you buy junk, you may have to hunt for the proper wiring diagram.

1mbrews8

04/17/2015, 09:24 AM

thank you!

but, I am still a bit confused on the ones for 80w that are talked about above..

how many do I need for 8 total (6 for now) 80w bulbs? I think this:
for 80 watt, you need 3x ballasts if HEP, and 6x if using Advance

And which "part #" for the advance or hep? I think:
ICN-1S80-T = Advance
or
SI280 UNI = HEP

I would prefer the HEP, but cannot find anywhere to buy them?

I will replace the 430, but since it is working for now, I think i'll wait til it bites the dust :o)

1mbrews8

04/20/2015, 08:48 PM

guys, I am dying here lol!

Where can I buy the HEP????

for 80w

Kyuss

04/21/2015, 05:20 AM

^ Sent you a PM

1mbrews8

04/21/2015, 07:49 AM

Trying now.. thanks!

likefish

04/21/2015, 03:57 PM

^ Sent you a PM

please share!

great thread. Thank you to all involved!

Kyuss

04/21/2015, 04:29 PM

I had an email contact for the HEP Group ballasts in the US for him. If anyone else needs it just let me know, I don't want to post it on a public forum and have the guys email get hammered by spam bots is all.

Bootlegger

05/26/2015, 10:31 AM

I was trolling this thread as I'm currently in the process of modifying my 6x 54THO system. I inherited the fixtures with a used tank, which are three Hamilton retrofits using Fulham Workhorse 5s.

I've built several T5s systems and this is the first time I'm NOT running Sylvania Quictronic Program Start or an Advance ballast with program start. The Fulhams fire the bulbs just fine (instant start...ehhh) but dim out as the fixture heats up in the hood. T5s do lose lumens as the get past a temperature threshold but I haven't see it this bad (using my eyes so a subjective perspective...then again I've been doing this long enough to where I trust my eyes)

Anyway, I'm going to add a couple cooling fans on a temp switch set for as close to 100F I can find, e.g. turning on until the bulbs after they are running and warmed up. If this doesn't solve the problem, I'm going back to what I know.

Note: I had some used bulbs that came with the fixtures that the previous owner clearly ran far past what you'd want to do in this hobby (he complained he couldn't keep SPS...no wonder). These were dimmer than any T5s I've seen and very black at the ends. After firing a fixture with the Fulhams, I fired up another fixture with a spare Sylvania Quictronic Professinal ($80-$120 ballast). There was a clear lumen improvement with the Quictronic Pro. I'm a cheap-a$$ but in this case I'll say that this is an area worth paying more.

Note2: A lot of people run Fulham Workhorses and are happy with them. I don't think they are bad but maybe not versatile enough for every system. I think if you're running a fan cooled hood and changing bulbs every 6-8 months, you'll be just fine. If you're looking to push the limits on temp and/or bulb-longevity with best lumen maintenance, then go with professional series Program Start ballasts. At $16-25 per bulb, it's worth it.

dromonk

10/07/2015, 10:21 AM

Need help getting the right ballast I have a tek 26 light has 3 ballast each runs 2 24 inch t5 24w bulbs not sure if need more info or what I need to know to get the right one

Sounds Fishy

10/07/2015, 02:05 PM

Most Tek equipment comes apart fairly easy,by unscrewing the cover and reflectors.I am guessing that they are Workhorse ballasts,but I may be wrong.The easiest thing to do is take the unit apart and look at the ballast.Just order the identical ballast online and have it delivered to you at your address.

kinnadian

10/07/2015, 03:34 PM

Have a read through the first 2 pages, Workhorse ballasts are about the worst you can get.

Uncleof6 recommends what type to get.

I have Osram t5 electronic ballast with soft start and they are good.

Kyuss

10/08/2015, 03:56 PM

Need help getting the right ballast I have a tek 26 light has 3 ballast each runs 2 24 inch t5 24w bulbs not sure if need more info or what I need to know to get the right one

Are you looking for OEM replacements or just any proper spec ballasts?

Tttony

10/08/2015, 08:02 PM

What is really wrong with the work horse ballast? I've got sps and lps doing great. They do run hot though,

Gorgok

10/08/2015, 11:44 PM

As i understand the main issue is they are instant start type ballasts, which shortens the useful (color shift) lifespan of the tubes. A programmed start ballast is much gentler on startup and the tubes last longer.

Now that isn't an issue on things that don't get shut off much, or where color shift isn't that big of a deal, so they are common... We pay a bunch for the 'right' color in the tubes, so having it shift is a little annoying for the little more you pay for a ballast once... (in a while).

Tttony

10/13/2015, 09:29 PM

Thank you for explaining that, I guess I'll be looking for those types of ballast for my next diy set up

hobbzz

10/15/2015, 10:24 AM

Can I run four 24w t5ho bulbs off of a single 2x54w ballast? ATI or Advance ballasts. Thanks in... Advance lololol. Pun intended. I Crack myself up.

richgoose

11/10/2015, 04:22 PM

I am trying to determine the answer to a similar question as above. I would like to create a DIY t5 fixture to go over a 20x20" cube, using (4) 18w TrueLumen t5's. Based on what I have read here, I could probably get away with (2) ICN-2S24 ballasts. the questions I have -

1) Will there be a problem driving the smaller 18w bulbs or does the ballast compensate?

2) is there one ballast I could use for all (4) bulbs?

I wrapped my mind around DIY LED, but this T5HO stuff seems more confusing.

richgoose

11/13/2015, 07:13 AM

Bump... No t5 guru left around here?

Kyuss

11/14/2015, 03:25 PM

It may be possible, but it's very likely to either under-drive or over-drive the bulbs by quite a bit (in this case I'd wager over-drive, which could end really bad.) Even if it's manageable and works, if the manufacturer doesn't list that bulb type for a particular ballast and something were to happen, fault is going to fall squarely on you - any insurance will be quick to point the finger too - and that's a really big risk to take IMO.

I use 80W bulbs so I'm not as familiar with the smaller sized lamps, but I think 18W t5's are sort of a "wildcat" size and so not much for options for DIYing, but I could be wrong. The spec sheet for the ICN-2S24 (https://a89b8e4143ca50438f09-7c1706ba3fabeeda794725d88e4f5e57.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/spec_sheets/files/000/030/161/original/advance_ICN-2S24_spec_sheet.pdf?1442966456) doesn't list anything for 18W t5, and I don't know if you'll get more than a simple "No." from them if you email them about it.

richgoose

12/04/2015, 01:34 PM

I dug a little more - Current USA was the company offering 20" t5 fixtures - their recommended replacement ballasts found through a link on their website offer a sunpark programmed start model for F18T5HO. at only 14$ for a 2 lamp ballast, I have found the right components for my DIY.

Thanks for the responses

stephenhall1987

12/06/2015, 03:55 PM

gus6464

12/08/2015, 12:11 PM

FishTri

12/08/2015, 10:16 PM

A lot of great information on this thread!!!

My question: The ICN-4S54-90C-2LS-G states it can run 3 or 4 bulbs. If I'm running 3 bulbs, is it going to over drive any of the bulbs? Is the power efficiency less?

Also, looking at tombstones, what does shunted and unshunted mean?

Originally (with older T12 lamps) the tombstones (a.k.a sockets or lamp holders) had two wires coming from the ballast into the tombstone. One wire connected through the tombstone to each pin on the end of the lamp. This allowed the ballast to send current through the cathodes (think of a little filament like in an incandescent light bulb) at either end of the lamp.

The ballast would warm up the cathodes, then provide a burst of high voltage to start the arc through the lamp. This was called "rapid-start."

Then along came T8 lamps and electronic ballasts. Rapid-start was still available, but there was another system introduced called "Instant-start." Instant-start ballasts have only one wire running from the ballast to each tombstone. The two leads into the tombstone are connected together (shunted) and connected to the one ballast wire. The ballast no longer warms up the cathodes - it just uses brute force (higher voltage) to get the arc going.

This saves a couple of watts by eliminating the cathode warming, but shortens lamp life due to stress of starting the lamp.

stephenhall1987

12/11/2015, 09:13 PM

http://www.lightingsupply.com/media/pdf/ICN4S5490C2LSG.pdf

Based on that spec sheet the ballast factor stays the same no matter if running 3 or 4 bulbs so you will be fine.

Originally (with older T12 lamps) the tombstones (a.k.a sockets or lamp holders) had two wires coming from the ballast into the tombstone. One wire connected through the tombstone to each pin on the end of the lamp. This allowed the ballast to send current through the cathodes (think of a little filament like in an incandescent light bulb) at either end of the lamp.

The ballast would warm up the cathodes, then provide a burst of high voltage to start the arc through the lamp. This was called "rapid-start."

Instant-start ballasts have only one wire running from the ballast to each tombstone. The two leads into the tombstone are connected together (shunted) and connected to the one ballast wire. The ballast no longer warms up the cathodes - it just uses brute force (higher voltage) to get the arc going.

This saves a couple of watts by eliminating the cathode warming, but shortens lamp life due to stress of starting the lamp.

Awesome! Thanks guys! Exactly what I needed to hear.
Judging by the wiring diagram, and being "programmed start", I'll assume that I need the non shunted.

gus6464

12/11/2015, 10:31 PM

Awesome! Thanks guys! Exactly what I needed to hear.
Judging by the wiring diagram, and being "programmed start", I'll assume that I need the non shunted.
Yes programmed start ballasts tend to all be use non shunted tombstones.

FishTri

12/12/2015, 07:57 AM

Of the three starting strategies (Instant-start, Rapid-start, Programmed Start) Programmed Start is easiest on the lamp and in typical applications offers extended lamp life.

Both Rapid-start and Programmed Start ballasts apply cathode heat as they start the lamp. They will have two wires coming from the ballast to each tombstone, and require non-shunted tombstones so that the ballast can apply a current across the cathodes. Instant-start ballasts will only have one wire coming from the ballast to each socket and therefore require shunted tombstones.

A Rapid-start ballast heats the cathodes and applies a high voltage across the lamp all at the same time. A Programmed-start ballast takes a more elegant approach. It first warms up the cathodes, then applies voltage across the lamp. This results in a much gentler start and does not beat up the cathodes as much.

Fluorescent lamps typically fail, when they fail to start. You rarely see a lamp that is operating suddenly stop operating. But the next time you try to turn it on, it won't. Its because one of the cathodes has failed (again, just like that little filament in an incandescent light bulb).

Regarding T5 (or T5HO) lamps, those ballasts are predominantly Programmed-start and would use non-shunted sockets.

JoeBoots

02/22/2016, 09:56 AM

About to buy the advance ballasts is the 90c temp all that important for a typical install? I plan on mounting the ballasts to the outside back of my canopy so they will have somewhat better airflow over them then if they were totally enclosed. Should I save the 6 bucks per ballast and just get the regular "T" ballast

BigDave

02/22/2016, 03:32 PM

Really wish this post had shown up when I was searching this topic. I just bought 2 workhorse ballasts :(

I think I'll go ahead and install them, then I can replace them in a few months if they're acting up.

JoeBoots

02/22/2016, 03:53 PM

Dave you doing a retro install also?

BigDave

02/22/2016, 03:57 PM

I'm modifying some lights I got for free.

I was given a pair of 8-tube 48" T5HO's, but my tank is only a 30" cube. I cut the two ends off and I'm going to remount them into a wooden canopy. Replace the stock ballasts with the smaller ones, and I should be done. The stock reflector is really nice, so I'm going to cut it down and reuse it too.

The stock light had Workhorse 7's in it, which is why I bought the Workhorse 5's for the rebuild.

I figure I should end up with a nice little 28"x28" canopy to hang over the DT.

I just hope these lights will work decent over a tank that's 30" deep. I'm guessing that higher-light items will need to be higher in the tank, and I probably won't be able to keep clams with only T-5's above the tank.

JoeBoots

02/22/2016, 04:04 PM

Yea I don't have any experience with T5's so I can only really guess if the light will penetrate that depth. I'm going based on the advice here about the ballasts. Originally I was just going to buy the LET retro kits from BRS but by piecing the lights together I'm going to end up saving close to 50 bucks since I only want to add 3 bulbs. I'm adding them to eliminate the shadows caused by my radions.

lionfish300

03/19/2016, 05:36 PM

Anyone know where I can get 18 gauge wire? I bought the Let retrofit but need additional wire to connect to the ballasts ( in the cabinet below)

theatrus

03/19/2016, 05:43 PM

Anyone know where I can get 18 gauge wire? I bought the Let retrofit but need additional wire to connect to the ballasts ( in the cabinet below)

Your local home improvement or hardware store.

lionfish300

03/19/2016, 11:20 PM

Your local home improvement or hardware store.Nope not HP. Lowes and Radio Shack:confused:

theatrus

03/19/2016, 11:23 PM

All of my HD and Lowes have lots of wire. If they don't stock any voltage rated 18 (there will surely be some comm wire, just not for mains connection), just use 16 or 14 stranded.

Lowefx

04/11/2016, 01:21 PM

ok, after only 4 pages my mind is spinning in a circle. here is my question and i want a simple answer. I have 4 48" t5 atinic bulbs, i want to run 2 at a time, which means i need 2 ballasts. Since i was going to get Fulham but realized they are not good for the long haul, i will look at Advance Centium unless otherwise advised. What model do i need for slimmest design and quality while being budget friendly, from 1000bulbs.com
thanks for the help

stephenhall1987

04/14/2016, 08:41 AM

The only model 1000bulbs has in the Advance Centium that will power 2 48" HO T5 bulbs is the ICN-2S54-T (https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/101029/BA-ICN2S54T35I.html).

Lowefx

04/14/2016, 08:43 AM

Perfect, I think I'll get 2 unless there is something equivalent or better in quality for less of a cost.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Lowefx

04/24/2016, 02:48 PM

Any recommendations for MH 150w ballast for double ended bulbs? Something that will fit within my Current USA fixture...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Big E

04/25/2016, 05:16 AM

Perfect, I think I'll get 2 unless there is something equivalent or better in quality for less of a cost.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

This is what is in ATI fixtures---

https://premiumaquatics.com/products/ati-dimmable-54w-2-bulb-t5-ballast.html

Lowefx

04/25/2016, 05:58 AM

This is what is in ATI fixtures---

https://premiumaquatics.com/products/ati-dimmable-54w-2-bulb-t5-ballast.html
Hell yeah, nice find. Exactly what I'm thinking. Any ideas for the MH ballast?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Lowefx

04/25/2016, 01:05 PM

If you run a vue 660 (icecap) you are going to overdrive the t5 bulbs. They need fans and won't last as long.
http://financeseeyou.com/red/images/7.gif
http://financeseeyou.com/red/images/8.gif http://financeseeyou.com/red/images/31.gif
Who are you refering your statement to?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

lastlight

09/29/2016, 11:48 PM

Have an expensive problem on my hands. All I need to do is drive two 36" 39w t5. My buddy gave me an old 48" 6 bulb tek. One of the ballasts was apparently dead. Turns out the one that drives the outer 2 bulbs was shot. The ballast driving the middle 4 bulbs is a ICN-4S54-90c-2LS-G. It says right on the ballast that it's also capable of driving 39w t5. So I took the unit apart enough to slide one set of endcaps closer to test drive a single 36" lamp. These were fluval brand t5ho btw. There were no lamps in there except the one I tried to drive. It flickered a brief moment and was done. I foolishly tried a second lamp in another socket pair with the same result.

I know it's wired to currently run 4 bulbs but it should still be able to drive a lone bulb (or eventually 2) right? It's just wired to handle up to 4. And like I said it lists other bulbs it's capable of driving including the 39w.

Can someone please help? I can't afford to keep frying bulbs. Thanks.

gus6464

09/30/2016, 12:23 AM

lastlight

09/30/2016, 12:40 AM

I just snapped this pic. It says on there compatible with F36/39W. Isn't that the bulb in question?

http://www.fishbrains.net/images/arcade/ballast.jpg

uncleof6

09/30/2016, 01:00 AM

I just snapped this pic. It says on there compatible with F36/39W. Isn't that the bulb in question?

http://www.fishbrains.net/images/arcade/ballast.jpg

T5/HO ballasts are application specific. The first technology where this was the case, and an ICN4s54 is not intended to run F39T5/HO lamps. It just burns them up. IceCap had some trouble with this, saying that their 660 T12/VHO ballast was suitable for running T5/HO lamps. I have an ICN-2S54 in my hand and the ballast says: FT36/39W, which is a CFL, not a T5/HO. You need to get your hands on a ICN-4S39 ballast, if you want to run 39watt T5/HO lamps. Easy enough mistake to make, but can get expensive blowing out lamps.

lastlight

09/30/2016, 01:06 AM

Thanks for clarifying that's not a t5 lamp. It sure read like one to me!

uncleof6

09/30/2016, 01:27 AM

I just snapped this pic. It says on there compatible with F36/39W. Isn't that the bulb in question?

http://www.fishbrains.net/images/arcade/ballast.jpg

Thanks for clarifying that's not a t5 lamp. It sure read like one to me!

Like I said, it is an easy enough mistake to make. Could be worse... like bouncing a mars lander off the martian atmosphere due to a units conversion failure... ;)

d-man

10/02/2016, 05:42 PM

What ballast to drive 60" bulbs?
And do ballasts only ever drive 2 or can they do 4 bulbs?
Thanks

uncleof6

10/02/2016, 06:58 PM

F80T5HO (60" lamps) require an ICN-1S80 ballast. It is a single lamp ballast. I am not aware of a correct ballast that will drive either 2 or 4 F80T5HO lamps. Most other sizes are either ICN-2Sxx or ICN-4Sxx, running either 2 or 4 lamps repesctively. You can run less than the xSxx (e.g. 1 lamp on 2Sxx) but cannot run more than the stated number, nor can lamps of other wattages be run on the ballast.

When shopping for T5/HO ballasts it is important to note that the lamp designations (e.g. FxxT5HO; FxxT5/HO & FxxT5-HO are the same as the first) are standarized. If the designation is not in that format (i.e. FT36/39w) it is not a T5HO lamp. Of course FxxT8 and FxxT12VHO are not T5HO lamps either. FxxT5 and FxxT5VHO are separate specifications as well.

Lamp designations do not cross reference as they are standardized, however ballasts do cross-reference, between various manufacturers. The type of lamp determines the type of ballast needed (by lamp specifications,) however there is no regulation on the ballast manufacturer/lighting packager/reseller, e.g. they can put FxxT5HO lamp type on any ballast they want too. (results in T12VHO ballasts saying they can run T5HO lamps, and instant start ballast saying the same.) So it is best to use a "cross-reference" when selecting a ballast, rather than the ballast label in some cases; but if the label does not say: Programmed Start and Lamp EOL Protection, it is NOT a T5HO ballast.

jmike0311

10/03/2016, 09:59 AM

This thread is awesome as I am embarking on my 120 build. My current plan is 6 t-5's and 2 250w MH's. It will definitely be a DIY fixture and the ballast part was the most concerning for me. Thanks to all the contributors for the great info!! :thumbsup:

gus6464

10/03/2016, 01:38 PM

The ICN-2S39-T is a dual mode ballast. It can do 24W and 39W T5 2 bulbs. It also has the advantage that when you run 24W mode it has a ballast factor of 1.12. This means that bulbs will be over 10% brighter than a HEP and 25% brighter than a Workhorse.

Also, power factor stays at 1.0 which means it is not overdriving the bulbs by doing this. It is just a more efficient ballast.

gus6464

10/03/2016, 01:43 PM

What ballast to drive 60" bulbs?
And do ballasts only ever drive 2 or can they do 4 bulbs?
Thanks

The HEP SI280 UNI handles 2x 80W bulbs @ 120V.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/2x80w-t5-high-output-ballast-ati.html

d-man

10/05/2016, 05:59 PM

Thx

Dans85

07/29/2017, 09:16 PM

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I my google skills aren't showing any results. Do the Phillips centium ICN-4S54-90c-2LS-G ballasts require 240v to run 4 54w t5 bulbs, or will 120v do it?

uncleof6

07/29/2017, 10:27 PM

The ICN-4S54 just as the ICN-2S54 pictured above, can run on a line voltage of 120 VAC to 277 VAC. So 240VAC is not required to run 4 lamps. These ballasts use switching power supplies so the output of the ballast is consistent through the input range.

Dans85

07/29/2017, 11:18 PM

Ok sweet. Thanks for your help. Will the par output be the same either way?

lingwendil

07/29/2017, 11:53 PM

Yes, PAR will be the same.

uncleof6

07/30/2017, 11:10 AM

Errata: The ballasts pictured above are ICN-4S54 ballasts, not ICN-2S54 ballasts...

Steveb

08/18/2018, 05:53 PM

T5/HO ballasts are application specific. The first technology where this was the case, and an ICN4s54 is not intended to run F39T5/HO lamps. It just burns them up. IceCap had some trouble with this, saying that their 660 T12/VHO ballast was suitable for running T5/HO lamps. I have an ICN-2S54 in my hand and the ballast says: FT36/39W, which is a CFL, not a T5/HO. You need to get your hands on a ICN-4S39 ballast, if you want to run 39watt T5/HO lamps. Easy enough mistake to make, but can get expensive blowing out lamps.

Sorry reviving an old thread...

Is there an ICN-4S39 ballast (4x39w t5ho)?

I have not been able to locate one, but my wife says my g00gle skills suck...:hmm3: