Reef Central Online Community - View Single Post - Episode III of "The Lazy Reefkeeper" series (RO/DI for Dummies)

ReefMeister2 · 06/27/2005, 05:48 PM

Ladies and Gentlemen,
Episode III is FINALLY here!
I am so sorry for lagging behind, but school work, house renovations, and ailing parents took precedence over these past few months. None-the-less, I have finally finished my RO/DI project, and as usual, I feel compelled to bore you to tears with my perpetual rambling, ridiculous jokes, and most of all...my home-made, corn-fed, all American, photographic talents! YeeeeHaaa!!!

As a "self-proclaimed-official-honest-to-goodness-one-heck-of-a-lazy-bastard" I would like to share some of my crazy creations that I have thought-up to help make this ridiculously-complicated hobby just a wee-bit less labor intensive. I am the official-fully-certified-honest-to-goodness Lazy Reefkeeper...so don't be fooled by imitators!

I WELCOME ALL comments, questions, suggestions, criticisms, condemnations, flames, hate-mail, curses, etc. etc.....whatever you have....Lay it on me, Maaannnnnn!

For those of you who missed them, here is Episode I:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=575416

and here is Episode II:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=579223

This thread is going to be a wee bit different than the first two. I started to take pictures of my new RO/DI system to document what I was installing in my house, but I then realized that alot of people are beginners to this "squeesin'-water-through-a-semi-permeable-rubber-wheeny" business and could thus use a bit of schoolin' on the darn subject. So... the first part of this thread is dedicated to some generalized knowledge and suggestions (in other words, more boring photos) that I've cooked up to bring everyone up to speed on the subject. Then, I'll present the second section of this thread that showcases my own personal, Lean, Mean, Water Makin' Machine! Can I hear a second "YeeeHaaa!!!"??? Thank you!

OK...so, here we go,
Location:
The first thing you will have to decide is WHERE the unit is going to go. Keep in mind that you will need 1) a water "source" 2) a water "drain" and 3) a water "output".
This is not as complicated as it seems...the source can be as simple as a garden hose faucet, the drain can be a loose water line running to the plants/lawn, and the output can be a bucket, trash can or any container that you want to hold water. The possibilities are unlimited, but the most common appication is mounting the unit under a sink, either in the kitchen, bathroom, or garage. But try to think of WHERE you want to water to go, and then decide which location is closest and makes more sense for routing purposes. The water lines are extremely compact and can be fed through almost any cabinet, wall, or crawl space to reach its destination. I am fortunate enough to be on a raised foundation, so I have water lines running all over my house.

Choose a System:
This is an example of a few different configurations. Numerous models on the market now offer literally dozens of variations, but the basic flow design is the same: Sediment filtration (removes particulates) --> Carbon filtration (removes chlorine and other chemical compounds) --> Reverse Osmosis membrane (heart of the system: removes 90-98% of impurities) --> Post filtration (usually a Deionization filter for Reef systems, or a simple polishing filter for drinking water systems)
Many systems can have more than one filter in a particular stage, such as dual carbon filters (very common) or even dual RO membranes to increase output.

Extras:
These are a couple of accessories that I highly recommend be purchased with the initial system. The storage tank is slightly pressurized, so it allows you to "pump" water nearly anywhere that you can route a water line. You can also "T" off the same line and send water to multiple locations. (as you will see in the second section with my own system) The fittings are extremely inexpensive and require nothing more than a tubing cutter (shown) or sharp knife to cut the water line to whatever lengths you need.

Understand the Basic Flow:
As explained earlier, all systems adhere to this basic pattern regardless of the configuration. If you understand the logic, then you'll have no problem plumbing the system, maintaining it, and even trouble-shooting it.

Water Source:
If you know how to turn off the main water supply to your house, condo, or apartment for a few minutes then the 3-way valve is my favorite choice. You simply replace the valve that supplies your cold water line with one the has a second hookup for 1/4" water line. Honestly, this is the most complicated part of the whole installation...if you can handle this, the rest is a breeze!
On the other hand, if you are the type of person who gets nauseated from just the thought of holding a wrench, then maybe the garden hose connector is right for you. Simply add one of those "Y" thinga-ma-jiggies (available at any garden center/aisle) and add this adapter to tap the 1/4 water line into.
A "piercing valve" is another option that is by far the fastest method if you have an exposed copper pipe to tap into, but I personally don't favor this method for a variety of reasons.

Drain Source:

Here are a few options for the drain. RO systems reject about 3 times the quantity of water that is produced, so a good open drainage source is imperative. As mentioned earlier, this can be as simple as routing the drain line to the garden and let the system water your plants for you. The rejection water is perfectly safe and is no more contaminated than the regular tap water....just slightly more dissolved solids.
A "saddle valve" is usually included with most new systems and simply tightens over your sink drain. You then drill a single hole into the saddle valve, for the 1/4" drain line to tap into (very simple)
Another option is to simply tap an appropriate sized hole (if you have a tap and die set) and screw in a fitting for the line
Again, if you are mechanically-deprived, just run the line outside and let nature do it for you...problem solved

Here are a few photos of how these connections should look like:

Output Source:
The ideas are limitless! This system does not have to be just for your reeftank. If you are still buying bottled water, STOP THE INSANITY! This is EXACTLY how they make their drinking water (Sparkletts, Arrowhead, Dasani, etc) They then put it in a cheap plastic bottle and sell it to you for a buck a bottle! I buy these bottles ONE time and then refill them over and over from my own system.
Most of you will be using this system for topoff water I suppose, so a floatswitch and/or Auto top-off device will be used. But, just remember that you can "T" off to as many places as you like. The most convenient location is to your refrigerator icemaker. Them fishies don't have to be the only ones to enjoy purified water

The Layout:
Don't let this diagram fool you, it is not nearly as complicated as it first appears. You may not even have to refer to this, as most RO systems are already plumbed for you. All you have to do is the three hookups explained above. But if you ever have to trouble-shoot the system, here is a pretty good generic diagram that shows the correct routing of water lines through the auto-cutoff switch. This is a water-saving device...the switch senses when there is backpressure in the system (such as when the tank is full) and shuts down the waterflow so that water does not keep flowing down the drain.
Note:
The "post carbon filter" in this diagram would be the "Deionizing filter" for us reefkeepers. As you can see, it is a good idea to mount the pressure tank just before the DI filter. This way, you get absolutely pure water on demand instead of stagnant water that has sat in the holding tank for awhile. The Deionizing stage will remove almost any (if not all) contaminants that make it past the RO membrane. If your system does not have a DI stage, then it is extremely easy to add one seperately if you should so choose. I prefer the ones with clear housing and "color-changing" resin that tells you when the resin is depleted and needs changing. I also highly recommend the TDS meter so that you can monitor the quality of your water at regular intervals.

WELLLLL, that is it for the "learning stage" in this series
I shall now move on to part II of this series and show you my own system. I have to post it seperately due to size constraints, so hopefully this works
LRK

06/27/2005, 05:48 PM	#1
ReefMeister2 Moved On Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Garden Grove, California Posts: 2,066	Episode III of "The Lazy Reefkeeper" series (RO/DI for Dummies) Ladies and Gentlemen, Episode III is FINALLY here! I am so sorry for lagging behind, but school work, house renovations, and ailing parents took precedence over these past few months. None-the-less, I have finally finished my RO/DI project, and as usual, I feel compelled to bore you to tears with my perpetual rambling, ridiculous jokes, and most of all...my home-made, corn-fed, all American, photographic talents! YeeeeHaaa!!! As a "self-proclaimed-official-honest-to-goodness-one-heck-of-a-lazy-bastard" I would like to share some of my crazy creations that I have thought-up to help make this ridiculously-complicated hobby just a wee-bit less labor intensive. I am the official-fully-certified-honest-to-goodness Lazy Reefkeeper...so don't be fooled by imitators! I WELCOME ALL comments, questions, suggestions, criticisms, condemnations, flames, hate-mail, curses, etc. etc.....whatever you have....Lay it on me, Maaannnnnn! For those of you who missed them, here is Episode I: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=575416 and here is Episode II: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=579223 This thread is going to be a wee bit different than the first two. I started to take pictures of my new RO/DI system to document what I was installing in my house, but I then realized that alot of people are beginners to this "squeesin'-water-through-a-semi-permeable-rubber-wheeny" business and could thus use a bit of schoolin' on the darn subject. So... the first part of this thread is dedicated to some generalized knowledge and suggestions (in other words, more boring photos) that I've cooked up to bring everyone up to speed on the subject. Then, I'll present the second section of this thread that showcases my own personal, Lean, Mean, Water Makin' Machine! Can I hear a second "YeeeHaaa!!!"??? Thank you! OK...so, here we go, Location: The first thing you will have to decide is WHERE the unit is going to go. Keep in mind that you will need 1) a water "source" 2) a water "drain" and 3) a water "output". This is not as complicated as it seems...the source can be as simple as a garden hose faucet, the drain can be a loose water line running to the plants/lawn, and the output can be a bucket, trash can or any container that you want to hold water. The possibilities are unlimited, but the most common appication is mounting the unit under a sink, either in the kitchen, bathroom, or garage. But try to think of WHERE you want to water to go, and then decide which location is closest and makes more sense for routing purposes. The water lines are extremely compact and can be fed through almost any cabinet, wall, or crawl space to reach its destination. I am fortunate enough to be on a raised foundation, so I have water lines running all over my house. Choose a System: This is an example of a few different configurations. Numerous models on the market now offer literally dozens of variations, but the basic flow design is the same: Sediment filtration (removes particulates) --> Carbon filtration (removes chlorine and other chemical compounds) --> Reverse Osmosis membrane (heart of the system: removes 90-98% of impurities) --> Post filtration (usually a Deionization filter for Reef systems, or a simple polishing filter for drinking water systems) Many systems can have more than one filter in a particular stage, such as dual carbon filters (very common) or even dual RO membranes to increase output. Extras: These are a couple of accessories that I highly recommend be purchased with the initial system. The storage tank is slightly pressurized, so it allows you to "pump" water nearly anywhere that you can route a water line. You can also "T" off the same line and send water to multiple locations. (as you will see in the second section with my own system) The fittings are extremely inexpensive and require nothing more than a tubing cutter (shown) or sharp knife to cut the water line to whatever lengths you need. Understand the Basic Flow: As explained earlier, all systems adhere to this basic pattern regardless of the configuration. If you understand the logic, then you'll have no problem plumbing the system, maintaining it, and even trouble-shooting it. Water Source: If you know how to turn off the main water supply to your house, condo, or apartment for a few minutes then the 3-way valve is my favorite choice. You simply replace the valve that supplies your cold water line with one the has a second hookup for 1/4" water line. Honestly, this is the most complicated part of the whole installation...if you can handle this, the rest is a breeze! On the other hand, if you are the type of person who gets nauseated from just the thought of holding a wrench, then maybe the garden hose connector is right for you. Simply add one of those "Y" thinga-ma-jiggies (available at any garden center/aisle) and add this adapter to tap the 1/4 water line into. A "piercing valve" is another option that is by far the fastest method if you have an exposed copper pipe to tap into, but I personally don't favor this method for a variety of reasons. Drain Source: Here are a few options for the drain. RO systems reject about 3 times the quantity of water that is produced, so a good open drainage source is imperative. As mentioned earlier, this can be as simple as routing the drain line to the garden and let the system water your plants for you. The rejection water is perfectly safe and is no more contaminated than the regular tap water....just slightly more dissolved solids. A "saddle valve" is usually included with most new systems and simply tightens over your sink drain. You then drill a single hole into the saddle valve, for the 1/4" drain line to tap into (very simple) Another option is to simply tap an appropriate sized hole (if you have a tap and die set) and screw in a fitting for the line Again, if you are mechanically-deprived, just run the line outside and let nature do it for you...problem solved Here are a few photos of how these connections should look like: Output Source: The ideas are limitless! This system does not have to be just for your reeftank. If you are still buying bottled water, STOP THE INSANITY! This is EXACTLY how they make their drinking water (Sparkletts, Arrowhead, Dasani, etc) They then put it in a cheap plastic bottle and sell it to you for a buck a bottle! I buy these bottles ONE time and then refill them over and over from my own system. Most of you will be using this system for topoff water I suppose, so a floatswitch and/or Auto top-off device will be used. But, just remember that you can "T" off to as many places as you like. The most convenient location is to your refrigerator icemaker. Them fishies don't have to be the only ones to enjoy purified water The Layout: Don't let this diagram fool you, it is not nearly as complicated as it first appears. You may not even have to refer to this, as most RO systems are already plumbed for you. All you have to do is the three hookups explained above. But if you ever have to trouble-shoot the system, here is a pretty good generic diagram that shows the correct routing of water lines through the auto-cutoff switch. This is a water-saving device...the switch senses when there is backpressure in the system (such as when the tank is full) and shuts down the waterflow so that water does not keep flowing down the drain. Note: The "post carbon filter" in this diagram would be the "Deionizing filter" for us reefkeepers. As you can see, it is a good idea to mount the pressure tank just before the DI filter. This way, you get absolutely pure water on demand instead of stagnant water that has sat in the holding tank for awhile. The Deionizing stage will remove almost any (if not all) contaminants that make it past the RO membrane. If your system does not have a DI stage, then it is extremely easy to add one seperately if you should so choose. I prefer the ones with clear housing and "color-changing" resin that tells you when the resin is depleted and needs changing. I also highly recommend the TDS meter so that you can monitor the quality of your water at regular intervals. WELLLLL, that is it for the "learning stage" in this series I shall now move on to part II of this series and show you my own system. I have to post it seperately due to size constraints, so hopefully this works LRK Last edited by ReefMeister2; 06/27/2005 at 06:44 PM.