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Unread 12/13/2014, 01:12 PM   #1
OnceTrueFalseBr
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Wink 40 gallon B vs 40 gallon long vs 55 gallon

I cant decide.

First i dont know which is best for a mixed reef.

Secondly i am not sure if im going to sump

If i do sump is drilled better with internal overflow plate or is HOB overflow safe/ failsafe?

Thirdly will a stand I make out of 2x4 and pluwood be strong enough?

Thanks!


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Unread 12/13/2014, 01:33 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnceTrueFalseBr View Post
First I don't know which is best for a mixed reef.
While it is a matter of opinion, I would recommend the 40B as it is 18" front to back which gives you more room for aquascaping. Also, being only 16" tall means you can use relatively inexpensive lights and still have all sorts of corals.

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Originally Posted by OnceTrueFalseBr View Post
Secondly i am not sure if im going to sump
Figure this out first. It is much easier to add it in the beginning than to try to add it later. The two biggest advantages of a sump are the increased water volume and the ability to hide equipment. Some basic plumbing skills are all you need.

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If i do sump is drilled better with internal overflow plate or is HOB overflow safe/ failsafe?
HOB overflow risks a flood if the siphon tube fails. Drilling the tank for the overflow is the better method as you can drill more than one drain which gives you options. Research BeanAnimal overflow which gives you a truly fail safe design. Two pieces of glass and three drilled holes and you're in business.

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Thirdly will a stand I make out of 2x4 and pluwood be strong enough? Thanks!
For tanks that small 2X4 is more than enough. Depending on the design a 3/4" plywood box is acceptable as is a 1X4 frame.

Keep researching. There are a bunch of ways to do everything and still get good results.


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Unread 12/13/2014, 02:41 PM   #3
OnceTrueFalseBr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketEngineer View Post
While it is a matter of opinion, I would recommend the 40B as it is 18" front to back which gives you more room for aquascaping. Also, being only 16" tall means you can use relatively inexpensive lights and still have all sorts of corals.



Figure this out first. It is much easier to add it in the beginning than to try to add it later. The two biggest advantages of a sump are the increased water volume and the ability to hide equipment. Some basic plumbing skills are all you need.



HOB overflow risks a flood if the siphon tube fails. Drilling the tank for the overflow is the better method as you can drill more than one drain which gives you options. Research BeanAnimal overflow which gives you a truly fail safe design. Two pieces of glass and three drilled holes and you're in business.



For tanks that small 2X4 is more than enough. Depending on the design a 3/4" plywood box is acceptable as is a 1X4 frame.

Keep researching. There are a bunch of ways to do everything and still get good results.
Thanks! Now i just need to start with building a stand. I think the 40 B will be the one and use my current 20 high as sump.

I just gotta figure out if the 40b is drillable from petsmart...


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Unread 12/13/2014, 03:12 PM   #4
rwb500
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the sides of the 40B are definitely not tempered, i dont remember if the bottom is or not. a 20 high sump is pretty tall. i would recommend buying a 20 long.


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Unread 12/13/2014, 06:46 PM   #5
jchindo
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40 gallon B vs 40 gallon long vs 55 gallon

I got a 40breeder from petco and just drilled it today. it's an aqueon one


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Unread 12/13/2014, 07:34 PM   #6
jason2459
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I would drill and use a sump. Out of those three sizes I would go with the 40b as a sump for a 75 DT.


Edit: 2x4 would be fine for the stand


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Unread 12/13/2014, 08:25 PM   #7
OnceTrueFalseBr
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Update I I bought a 40 breeder off from Petsmart for 90 bucks thing that was a good price know what size holes do I drill and what size piping?


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Unread 12/13/2014, 08:30 PM   #8
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1" should be plenty for a tank that size. Smaller just has too much friction.


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Unread 12/13/2014, 08:53 PM   #9
OnceTrueFalseBr
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Originally Posted by RocketEngineer View Post
1" should be plenty for a tank that size. Smaller just has too much friction.
How big should the hole be for the bulkhead if I'm to be doing 1 inch piping for both the inlet and the outlet?


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Unread 12/13/2014, 08:55 PM   #10
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I'm a fan of the beananimal setup and can find more on it here. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1541946


And if you've never drilled glass before I would practice a few holes first. If you're not comfortable doing it a lot of LFS's might.


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Unread 12/14/2014, 07:24 AM   #11
RocketEngineer
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Originally Posted by OnceTrueFalseBr View Post
How big should the hole be for the bulkhead if I'm to be doing 1 inch piping for both the inlet and the outlet?
That depends on the bulkheads you buy. I like Bulk Reef Supply because on their bulkhead page they link to their glass hole saw of the appropriate size. Most folks use the ABS bulkheads which work fine. I like the ones with the slip fit on the flange side and the threaded on the outside but then again, I know how to get a threaded connection to seal the first time (Teflon paste, not tape).


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Unread 12/14/2014, 10:25 AM   #12
OnceTrueFalseBr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketEngineer View Post
That depends on the bulkheads you buy. I like Bulk Reef Supply because on their bulkhead page they link to their glass hole saw of the appropriate size. Most folks use the ABS bulkheads which work fine. I like the ones with the slip fit on the flange side and the threaded on the outside but then again, I know how to get a threaded connection to seal the first time (Teflon paste, not tape).

Yea i only ever used the paste on my race car (car guy too) and never had coolant leaks with the paste and that was very high pressure systems. I guess ill buy the bulkheads and hole saw from BRS

Thanks!


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